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11     W  A^    A    BIKAK.    ItLOO-^IY    LiAV    IN     lAXUAKY    WHKX    I    FIRST   BEHELD    HK) 


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THE 

LOG  OF  A  SEA- WAIF 


BEING  KECOLLECTIONS  OF 


THE  FIRST  FOFI{  YEARS  OF  MY  SEA  TJFK 


FRANK   T.   BULLEN,  F.R.G.S. 

AUTHOR   or    "THE   CItUISR   OF    THK    'CACHALOT,'"    "  IDYLLS   OF   THE   SF.A,"    ETC. 


TF/r/I  EIGHT  ILLUSTRATIONS 


9^ 


L^^-^'it 


LONDON 
SMITH,  ELDER  &  CO.,  15,  WATERLOO  PLACE 

1899 

{All  riyhts  reserved') 


PKISTED   BY 

WILLIAM   CLOWES   AND  SOKS,    LIMITED, 

LONDOS    AND    BIXCLKS. 


TO 

J.  8T.  T.OK   STRACHEY 

IN 

GRATEFUL  KECOGXITIOX  OF 

HIS   UNWEARYING   ENCOUKAGEMENT    OF 

AND   PEUSISTENT   KINDXESS   TO 

THE  AUTHOR 
THIS  BOOK  IS  AFFECTIONATELY  DEDICATED 


PREFACE. 


Notwithstanding  the  oft-reiterated  statement  that  the 
days  of  sea  romauce  are  over,  it  may  well  be  doubted 
whether  any  period  of  our  literary  history  has  been 
more  prolific  in  books  dealing  with  that  subject  than 
the  last  twenty-five  years.  Nor  does  the  output  show 
any  signs  of  lessening,  while  the  quality  of  the  work 
done  is  certainly  not  deteriorating.  Writers  like 
Kipling,  Cutcliffe  Hyne,  Joseph  Conrad,  and  Clark 
Russell,  each  in  his  own  style,  have  presented  us  with 
a  series  of  sea-pictures  that  need  not  fear  comparison 
with  any  nautical  writers'  work  of  any  day,  although 
they  deal  almost  exclusively  with  the  generally  con- 
sidered unromantic  merchant  service.  Having  admitted 
this,  the  question  perforce  follows,  "Who,  then,  are 
you,  that  presumes  to  compete  with  these  master 
magicians  ?  " 

To  that  inevitable  question  I  would  modestly  answer 
that  the  present  book  is  in  no  sense  a  competitor 
with  the  works  of  any  writers  of  nautical  romance. 
But  having  been  for  fifteen  years  a  seafarer  in  almost 
every  capacity  except  that  of  a   master,  and  now,  by 


vill  PREFACE. 

the  greatest  kindness  and  indulgence  on  the  part  of 
men  holding  high  positions  in  the  literary  world,  being 
permitted  to  cater  for  the  reading  public  in  sterling 
periodicals,  it  has  often  occurred  to  me  how  little 
landsmen  really  know  of  the  seaman's  actual  life. 
"  Two  Years  before  the  Mast,"  although  written  by 
an  American,  and  of  life  on  board  an  American 
merchantman,  has  long  held  undisputed  sway  as  a 
classic  upon  the  subject.  And  for  the  only  reason, 
as  it  seems,  that  no  serious  attempt  has  been  made 
by  a  Britisher  to  do  the  same  thing  for  life  in  British 
ships. 

Still,  conscious  as  I  certainly  am  of  small  literary 
equipment  for  such  a  task,  I  should  hardly  have  dared 
to  try  my  hand  but  for  the  encouragement  most 
generously  and  persistently  given  me  by  Mr.  J.  St, 
Loe  Strachey,  who,  with  that  large  faith  in  another's 
abilities  that  breeds  confidence  in  its  object,  how- 
ever diffident,  urged  me  strongly  to  tell  the  public 
some  of  my  experiences  of  sea-life.  And  his  advice 
to  me  was  to  set  them  down,  just  as  they  occurred, 
as  nearly  as  memory  would  permit.  Of  course,  it 
was  not  possible  to  cover  the  whole  field  of  my 
experiences  at  once,  except  in  the  most  scrappy  and 
unsatisfactory  way,  and  therefore  I  decided  to  take 
the  first  four  years — from  the  age  of  twelve  to  six- 
teen. Following  vaj  friend's  advice,  I  have  written 
nothing  but  the  truth,  and,  in  most  cases,  I  have  given 
the  real  names  of  ships  and  individuals.  If  the  book, 
then,  does  not  please,  it  will  be  owing  to  my  lack  of 


PREFACE.  IX 

discrimination  between  interesting  and  commonplace 
details,  and  not  because  the  pictures  given  of  life  at 
sea  in  the  forecastle  are  not  faithful. 

And  now,  as  I  know  that  there  are  a  great  many 
people  who  do  not  read  prefaces,  I  will  close  mine  by 
humbly  commending  this  "  autobiography  of  a  nobody  " 
to  that  tremendous  tribunal,  with  whom  lies  the  verdict 
of  success  or  failure,  and  from  whose  fiat  there  is  no 
appeal — the  Public. 

FRANK  T.  BULLEN. 


Camberwell, 

September,  1899. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  PAGE 

I.  My  First  Ship        ...            ...  ...            ...            ••■         1 

II.  OuTWARD-BorXD               ...              ...  ...              ...               11 

III.  Arrival  at  Demeraba         ...  ...            ...            ...      23 

lY.  The  Mutiny  axd  After              ...  ...            ...              35 

Y.  The  Land  of  Liberty          ...  ...            ...            ...      47 

YI.  To  Havana  and  After                ...  ...             ...              61 

Yir.  Off  to  Sea  again  ...             ...  ...            ...             ...       76 

YKI.  Struggles  in  Liverpool  and  London      ...  ...             91 

IX.  Bound  for  Jamaica              ...  ...            ...            ...     101 

X.  Adventures  of  a  Shipwrecked  Crew     ...  ...            115 

XI.  An  Eventful  Passage  Home  ...            ...            ...     128 

XII.  Adrift  in  Liverpool  once  More  ...            ...            143 

XIII.  The  Dawn  of  Better  Days  ...            ...            ...     15(i 

XIY.  Due  South        ...            ...            ...  ...            ...            1G8 

XY.  Eight  Weeks'  Calm             ...  ...            ...            ...     178 

XYI.  Up  the  Indian  Ocean  to  Bombay  ...            ...            189 

XYII.  On  the  Coromandel  Coast  ...            ...            ...     203 

XYIII.  Homeward  to  London  ...            ...  ...            ...            210 

XIX.  A  Change  OF  Nationality .. .  ..             ...            ...    222 

XX.  The  Passage  to  Melbourne       ...  ...            ...           233 

XXI.  I  become  a  Colonial  Coaster  ...            ...            ...    240 


xii  CONTENTS. 

cHAi'Ti;i:  rA<.i: 

XXII.  Prosperity  palls  upon  me             ...  ...            ...     2.59 

XXIII.  Another  Queer  Ship...            ...  ...  ...            272 

XXIV.  Deep- Water  Amenities    ...            ...  ...  ...    2S:! 

XXV.  Pkoceedings  .^t  Rangoon         ...  ...            ...            29ri 

X.KVI.  HoMEWARD-BorND  in  Difficulties  ...            ...    :;0!» 

XXVII.  Deep-Water  Coasting              ...  ...            ...            :{19 

XXVIII.  Which  isrings  us  to  Port  at  Last  ...             ...     'MVii 

XXIX.  Conclusion    ...            ...            ...  ...            ...            '■^•■i^ 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS. 


TO   lACE   PAGE 


It  was  a  bleak,  gloomy  day  in  January  when  I  first  beheld  lior 

Front  is2'>i''Cf' 
We  could  have  put  in  several  months  on  that  barren  patch  of  sand 

quite  happily      ...  ...  ...  ...  ...  ...       .58 

A  huge  sea  rose  between  us,  hiding  her  from  view,  and  when  we 
soared  on  the  crest  of  the  next  one,  she  was  gone  like  a  foam 
flake     ...  ...  ...  ...  ...  ...  ...       92 

At  each  tremendous  lift  and  heave  of  the  doomed  vessel  all  hands 

would  make  a  frantic  rush  to  (he  side  ...  ...  ...     113 

For  a  short  minute  or  so  they  faced  him,  their  eyes  glaring  with  the 

lust  of  superstitious  cruelty  ...  ...  ...  ...     120 

Everybody  on  deck  was  terrified  at  the   apparition  of  a  mother- 
naked  giant,  armed  with  the  cook's  axe       ...  ...  ...     138 

Twenty  miles  down  the  river  we  ran  into  the  region  of  a  bush  fire        250 

"I  suppose  you  don't  believe  in  this,  do  you?"  ...  ...  ...     303 


THE    LOG    OF    A    SEA-WAIF. 


CHAPTER    I. 

MY    FIRST    SHIP. 

Many  boys  clamour  for  a  sea  life,  will  not  settle  down 
to  anytliiiig  ashore,  in  spite  of  the  pleading  of  parents, 
the  warnings  of  wisdom,  or  the  doleful  experiences  of 
friends.  Occasionally  at  schools  there  breaks  out  a 
sort  of  epidemic  of  "going  to  sea,"  for  which  there  is 
apparently  no  proximate  cause,  but  which  rages  fiercely 
for  a  time,  carrying  off  such  high-spirited  youths  as  can 
prevail  upon  those  responsible  for  them  to  agree  to  their 
making  a  trial  of  a  seafaring  life.  All  this  is  quite  as 
it  should  be,  of  course,  in  order  that  Britain  may 
continue  to  rule  the  waves ;  but  many  a  parent,  whose 
affectionate  projects  for  the  future  of  his  offspring  are 
thus  rudely  shattered,  bitterly  resents  what  he  naturally 
considers  to  be  unaccountable  folly. 

In  my  ow^n  case  matters  were  quite  otherwise.  I 
belonged  to  the  ignoble  company  of  the  unwanted.  In 
spite  of  hard  usage,  scanty  food,  and  overwork,  I 
ridiculously  persisted  in  living,  until,  at  the  approach 
of  my  twelfth  year,  an  eligible  opening  presented  itself 
for  me  to  go  to  sea.  Being  under  no  delusions  what- 
ever as  to  the  i^rosjoect  that  awaited  me,  since  I  had 


2  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WATF. 

knowu  intimately  tliose  wlio  bad  experienced  all  the 
vicissitudes  of  a  sailor's  life,  I  was  not  unduly  elated  at 
the  idea.  Nevertheless,  food  and  shelter  were  objects 
peculiarly  bard  of  attainment  ashore,  while  I  felt 
satisfied  that  at  sea  these  necessaries  would  be  always 
provided,  even  if  their  quality  was  none  of  the  best. 

The  vessel  in  which  I  obtained  a  birth  as  cabin-boy 
was  commanded  by  my  uncle :  a  stubborn,  surly,  but 
thoroughly  capable  old  seaman.  Soured  b}^  misfortune 
and  cross-grained  by  nature,  it  was  small  wonder  that 
he  had  no  friends,  not  even  the  sterling  honesty  of  his 
character,  or  his  high  ability,  being  suflicient  to  counter- 
balance the  drawback  of  his  atrocious  temper.  His 
latest  command  was  not  calculated  to  improve  him, 
for  she  was  a  survival  of  a  bygone  day,  clumsy  as  a 
Dutch  galliot,  impoverished  by  her  owner,  who  was 
heartily  sick  of  seeing  her  afloat,  and  would  have 
rejoiced  to  hear  that  she  was  missing ;  and  withal  leaky 
as  a  basket.  When  I  first  saw  her  huddled  into  a  more 
than  usually  dirty  corner  of  the  West  India  Docks,  I 
was  filled  with  wonder  to  see  that  her  cutwater  was 
sunken  between  two  swelling  bows  like  the  cheeks  of 
a  conventional  cherub.  Though  1  could  be  no  critic 
of  marine  construction,  this  seemed  an  anomaly  for 
which  there  appeared  to  be  no  excuse.  Her  bowsprit 
and  jibboom  soared  into  the  air  exactly  like  those  of  the 
galleons  of  old,  and  her  three  skimpy  masts  stood  like 
broomsticks  at  difi'erent  angles — the  foremast  especially, 
which  looked  over  the  bows. 

It  was  a  bleak,  gloomy  day  in  January  when  I  first 
beheld  her.  The  snow,  which  had  fallen  heavily  for 
some  days  previously,  was,  wherever  it  could  be, 
churned  into  filthy  slush,  and  where  undisturbed,  was 


MT  FIB  ST  SHIP.  3 

begrimed  more  into  the  similitude  of  soot-heaps  tlian 
anything  else.  Everything  wore  a  pinched,  miserable 
appearance.  So  forbidding  and  hopeless  was  the  out- 
look that,  had  it  been  practicable,  I  should  certainly 
have  retreated.  But  there  was  no  choice  ;  I  had  burned 
my  bridges. 

Climbing  on  deck,  I  found  such  a  state  of  confusion 
and  dirt  reigning  as  I  could  hardly  have  believed 
possible.  Owing  to  the  parsimony  of  the  owner,  not 
even  a  watchman  had  been  kept  on  board,  and,  in 
consequence,  the  decks  had  not  smelt  a  broom  for  a 
month.  The  cargo  and  stores  were  littered  about  so 
that  progress  was  gymnastic,  while  in  every  corner  and 
hollow  lay  the  dirty  snow.  Several  discontented-looking 
men  were  engaged  aloft  bending  sails,  others  were 
gradually  coaxing  the  cargo  on  deck  into  the  hold,  but 
no  one  seemed  to  have  any  energy  left.  Seated  upon 
an  up-ended  beef- cask  was  a  truculent-looking  individual 
whom  I  instinctivelj^  regarded  as  the  boss.  Him, 
therefore,  I  timidly  approached.  Upon  hearing  my 
message,  he  rolled  off  his  throne  and  led  the  way  aft, 
uttering  all  the  time  some,  to  me,  perfectly  unintelli- 
gible sounds.  I  made  no  pretence  of  answering,  so  I 
suppose  he  took  me  for  a  poor  idiot  hardly  worthy  of 
his  attention.  When,  after  some  effort,  he  disappeared 
down  the  cabin  companion,  I  was  close  behind  him,  and, 
understanding  his  gestures  better  than  his  speech,  made 
out  that  here  was  to  be  the  scene  of  my  future  labom's. 
The  place  was  so  gloomy  that  I  could  distinguish  none 
of  its  features  by  sight ;  but  the  atmosphere,  a  rank 
compound  of  the  reek  of  bilgewater,  mouldering  stores, 
and  unventilated  sleeping-places,  caught  me  by  the 
throat,  making  my  head  swim  and  a  lump  rise  in  my 


4  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

chest.  A  small  locker  by  tlio  ladder's  foot,  reminding 
me  curiously-  of  a  rabbil-liutcb,  was  pointed  out  to  me 
as  my  berth,  but  I  naturall}^  supposed  it  to  be  a  place 
for  m}'  bag.  How  could  I  have  dreamed  that  it  was 
also  to  be  my  chamber  ?  But  everything  began  to  reel 
with  me,  so,  blindly  clutching  the  ladder,  I  struggled  on 
deck  again,  where  the  bitter  wind  soon  revived  me. 

Henceforth  no  one  noticed  me,  so  I  roamed  about  the 
deck,  prying  into  holes  and  corners,  until  the  stevedores 
knocked  off  for  dinner.  Presently  the  mate  came 
towards  where  I  sat,  shivering  and  solitary,  on  the 
windlass  end,  and  made  me  understand  that  I  was  to 
come  ashore  with  him.  He  conducted  me  through  a 
labyrinth  of  mean  streets  to  a  spacious  building  in  a 
wide  thoroughfare,  around  which  were  congregated  many 
little  groups  of  seamen  of  all  nations.  We  entered  the 
place  at  once,  and  soon  reached  a  large  bare  room 
crowded  with  seamen.  Here  I  was  told  to  wait  while 
Mr.  Svensen  went  to  seek  the  captain.  While  I  stood 
bewildered  by  the  bustle  of  the  crowded  place,  I  heard 
occasional  hoarse  demands  for  "  Three  A.B.'s  an'  one 
ordinary  for  Pernambuck !  "  "Cook  an'  stooard  for 
Kingston,  Jamaica  ! "  "  All  the  croo  of  the  Star  o  Peace  !" 
and  similar  calls,  each  followed  by  a  general  rush 
towards  the  speaker,  accompanied  by  a  rustling  of  dis- 
charges in  the  air  as  their  owners  sought  to  attract 
attention. 

After  about  an  hour's  wait  I  heard  the  cry  "  Croo 
of  the  Arabella  here!"  which  was  followed  by  the 
usual  rush  ;  but,  to  the  disappointment  of  the  watchers, 
the  whole  of  the  crew  had  been  already  selected. 
One  by  one  they  squeezed  through  the  crowd  into  an 
office  beyond,  whither   I   managed  to   follow.      I  was 


i 


MY  FIRST  snip.  0 

too  much  amazed  at  the  hurly-burly  to  notice  who 
were  to  be  my  future  shipmates,  but  I  paid  a  sort  of 
awe-struck  attention  to  the  reading  of  the  "articles." 
Doubtless  much  excuse  must  be  made  for  the  officials, 
who  have  to  gabble  the  same  rigmarole  over  so  many 
times  each  working  day  ;  but  I  certainly  think  some 
attempt  might  always  be  made  that  the  essential  parts 
of  the  agreement  should  be  clear  to  men  who  are  about 
to  bind  themselves  for  a  long  period  to  abide  by  it.  In 
our  case,  the  only  words  clearly  accented,  heard,  and 
understood  by  all,  were  the  last  three,  *'no  spirits 
allowed."  Each  man  then  signed  the  articles,  or- made 
his  mark,  ending  with  myself,  when  I  found  I  was 
entitled  to  receive  five  shillings  per  month,  without  any 
half-pay  or  advance.  Each  of  the  men  received  a 
month's  advance,  in  the  form  of  a  promissory-note,  pay- 
able three  days  after  the  ship  left  the  Downs,  "  pro- 
viding the  said  seaman  sails  in  the  said  ship."  None  of 
them  lost  any  time  in  getting  away  to  seek  some 
accommodating  (?)  shark  to  cash  their  notes  at  an 
average  discount  of  about  forty  per  cent.,  most  of  the 
proceeds  being  payable  in  kind. 

This  important  preliminary  over,  I  was  free  till  next 
morning,  when  all  hands  were  ordered  on  board  by  ten 
o'clock.  Not  feeling  at  all  desirous  of  returning  to  the 
ship,  yet  being  penniless,  and  in  a  strange  part  of  Loudon, 
I  made  my  way  westward  to  the  Strand,  where  I  soon 
managed  to  pick  up  enough  for  a  meal.  I  spent  the 
night  in  Hyde  Park  in  a  snug  corner,  unknown  to  the 
police,  that  had  often  served  me  as  a  refuge  before.  At 
daybreak  I  started  East,  arriving  on  board  at  about 
half-past  nine  very  tired  and  hungry.  The  mate  eyed 
me  suspiciously,  saying  something  which  I  guessed  to 


6  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAlF. 

be  uncomplimentary,  although  I  was  still  unable  to 
understand  a  word.  But,  as  before,  he  did  not  interfere 
with  me  or  set  me  any  task. 

The  litter  of  cases,  bales,  etc.,  about  the  deck  was 
fast  disappearing  under  the  strenuous  exertions  of  the 
stevedores  and  dock-wallopers,  while  the  raffle  of  gear 
aloft  was  reduced  to  as  near  an  approach  to  orderly 
arrangement  as  it  could  ever  be  expected  to  assume. 
Presently  a  grimy  little  paddle-steamer  came  alongside, 
through  the  clustering  swarm  of  barges,  and  was  made 
fast  ahead  and  astern.  An  individual  with  a  stentorian 
voice,  a  pilot  suit,  mangy  fur  cap,  and  brick-red  face 
mounted  the  forecastle,  bellowing  out  orders  apparently 
addressed  to  no  one  in  particular.  Their  effect  was  at 
once  evident,  however,  for  we  began  to  move  deliberate!}- 
away  from  the  wharf,  splitting  the  crowd  of  barges 
asunder  amid  the  sulphurous  remarks  of  their  attendants. 
Once  out  into  the  comparatively  clear  centre  of  the  dock, 
we  made  good  progress  until  the  last  lock  was  reached ; 
but  there  we  came  to  a  full  stop.  As  yet  none  of  the 
crew  had  arrived,  the  vessel  being  handled  by  a  shore- 
gang  so  far.  After  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour's  delay, 
during  which  the  captain  and  pilot  exhausted  their 
vocabulary  in  abuse  of  the  laggards,  the  latter  hove  in 
sight,  convoyed  by  a  motley  crowd  of  tailor's  "  runners," 
boarding-masters,  and  frowsy  looking  women. 

They  made  a  funny  little  group.  The  sailors  were  in 
that  happy  state  when  nothing  matters — least  of  all  the 
discounter  of  an  advance-note  ;  hence  the  bodyguard  of 
interested  watchers,  who  would  leave  no  stone  unturned 
to  see  that  their  debtors  went  in  the  ship,  although,  being 
under  the  vigilant  eyes  of  the  police,  they  dared  not 
resort  to  violent  means.     The  ladies,  possessing  but  a 


MY  FIRST  SEIF.  7 

fast-fading  interest  in  outward  bounders,  were  probably 
in  evidence  more  from  slackness  of  business  than  any 
more  sentimental  cause.  But  having  cajoled  or  coerced 
Jack  to  the  pierhead,  he  seemed  unpersuadable  to  the 
final  step  of  getting  aboard.  Again  and  again  a  sailor 
would  break  lose  and  canter  waveringly  shoreward,  only 
to  be  at  once  surrounded  by  his  escort  and  hurriedly 
hauled  back  again.  At  last,  exasperated  beyond  en- 
durance by  the  repetition  of  these  aimless  antics,  the 
skipper  sprang  ashore  followed  by  the  pilot.  Bursting 
in  upon  the  squabbling  crowd,  they  seized  upon  a  couple 
of  the  maudlin  mariners,  hurling  them  on  board  as  if 
they  had  been  made  of  rubber.  With  like  vigour  the 
rest  were  embarked,  their  "  dunnage  "  flung  after  them  ; 
the  warps  were  immediately  let  go,  and  the  ship  began 
to  move  ahead. 

Outside  the  dock-gate  a  larger  tug  was  waiting  in 
readiness  to  hook  on  as  soon  as  we  emerged,  and  tow 
us  down  the  river.  With  a  final  shove,  accompanied 
by  a  stifling  belch  of  greasy  smoke,  our  sooty  satellite 
shook  herself  free  of  us,  retreating  hastily  within  the 
basin  again,  while,  obedient  to  the  increasing  strain  on 
our  hawser  ahead,  we  passed  rapidly  out  into  the 
crowded  stream. 

During  the  uneventful  trip  the  shore-gang,  under 
the  direction  of  Mr.  Svensen  and  the  second  mate  (who, 
being  also  the  carpenter,  was  always  known  as  "  Chips  "), 
worked  indefatigably  to  get  the  decks  clear  for  sea — 
lashing  spars,  water-casks,  boats,  etc.  But  their  efforts 
were  greatly  hindered  by  the  crew,  who,  not  being  suffi- 
ciently drunk  to  lie  still  in  the  forecastle,  persisted  in 
tumbling  continually  about  the  decks,  ofi'ering  assistance 
while  getting  in  everybody's  way.     In  vain  were  they 


8  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

repeatedly  conducted  to  their  dog-bole ;  no  sooner  were 
they  left  than  they  were  out  again,  until  the  hard-work- 
ing "lumpers  "  were  ready  to  jump  on  them  with  rage. 
Meanwhile  I  grew  so  weary  of  standing  about 
that  I  was  quite  grateful  when  Chips  ordered  me  to 
fetch  him  a  marlinespike.  "What  be  wanted  I  had 
not  the  slightest  idea ;  but,  unwilling  to  confess  such 
ignorance,  I  ran  forward  and  asked  a  labourer  w'ho 
was  stowing  the  cable.  He  told  me  that  it  was  a 
pointed  bar  of  iron  with  a  hole  at  one  end  for  a 
lanyard  to  hang  it  round  the  neck  by,  adding  that  I 
should  find  some  in  the  fo'lk'sle,  "  right  forrard  in  the 
eyes  of  her."  Away  I  went  into  the  tbick  darkness 
of  the  men's  dirty  cave,  groping  my  way  into  its  inner- 
most recesses  among  the  bags,  chests,  and  beds  with 
which  the  deck  was  bestrewn.  Eeaching  the  farthest 
corner,  I  felt  a  great  bundle  of  something  upon  what 
I  took  for  a  shelf,  which  barred  my  further  search. 
Tugging  heartil}'  at  it  to  get  it  out  of  my  way,  I 
suddenly  felt  it  move  !  I  did  not  wait  to  investigate, 
but  floundered  back  on  deck  again  almost  witless  from 
fright.  Breathlessly  I  reported  to  Chips  my  discovery, 
which  brought  him  quickl}'  to  the  spot  with  a  light. 
Sure  enough  there  was  a  sea-bag,  about  six  feet  long, 
stuffed  full — the  draw-string  tightly  closing  the  mouth. 
As  soon  as  it  was  touched,  there  was  a  movement 
within.  Its  contents  were  evidently  alive.  Chips  and 
his  assistant  promptly  muzzled  the  bag,  dragging  it  out 
on  deck,  and,  casting  the  cord  adrift,  turned  it  bottom 
upwards.  Out  there  tumbled,  head  foremost,  a  lanky 
nigger-lad,  who  had  been  missing  since  the  jjrevious 
morning  and  given  up  as  having  deserted.  On  being 
questioned  as  to  the  meaning  of  this  freak,  he  humbly 


MY  FinsT  snip.  9 

explained  that,  despairing  of  ever  getting  warm  again, 
lie  had  put  on  bis  entire  wardrobe,  lain  down  in  bis 
bunk,  and  crept  into  bis  bag,  managing  somebow  to 
draw  tbe  string  tigbt  over  bis  bead ;  tbat  be  bad  been 
tbere  ever  since,  and  was  likely  to  bave  died  tbere, 
since  be  could  not  get  bis  arms  up  again  to  let  bimself 
out.  He  was  dismissed  to  work  witb  a  grim  promise 
of  being  warmed  in  an  altogether  different  fashion  if  be 
was  again  guilty  of  skulking. 

Upon  arrival  at  Gravesend  we  anchored ;  the  tre- 
mendous racket  made  by  tbe  cable  rushing  over  the 
windlass  giving  me  a  great  fright.  I  thought  tbe 
bottom  of  tbe  ship  bad  fallen  out.  The  tug  departed 
for  a  berth  close  at  band,  tbe  pilot  and  shore-gang 
leaving  us  in  a  wherry.  I  looked  longingly  after  them 
as  they  went,  for  I  felt  strangely  tbat  tbe  last  link 
connecting  me  witb  England  was  now  broken,  and, 
although  I  bad  not  a  single  soul  ashore  to  regret  me, 
or  one  corner  tbat  I  could  think  of  as  home,  tbere  was 
sufficient  sadness  in  tbe  thought  of  leaving  tbe  land  of 
my  birth  to  bring  to  my  eyes  a  few  unaccustomed  tears. 

Fortunately  tbe  cook,  a  worn-out  seaman,  who,  in 
common  witb  most  vessels  of  that  class,  we  carried 
for  tbe  double  duty  of  cook  and  steward,  was  now  sober 
enough  to  get  supper  ready.  In  the  emphatic  sea- 
phrase,  be  "  Couldn't  boil  salt  water  without  burning 
it ;  "  but,  as  nobody  expected  anything  different,  that 
passed  without  comment.  My  regular  duties  now 
began  :  my  uncle,  tbe  captain,  giving  me  my  first  lesson 
in  laying  the  table  sea-fashion,  showing  me  where  to 
find  tbe  gear,  and  so  on.  The  curious  atmospheric 
compound  below  was  aj^preciabl}^  improved,  but  still 
tbere  was  a  prismatic  halo  round  the  swinging  lamjj. 


10  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

The  skipper  and  his  two  officers  took  no  notice  of  it, 
seeming  quite  at  their  ease  as  they  silently  ate  their 
humble  meal,  though  I  got  a  racking  headache.  Supper 
over,  I  was  ordered  to  "  Clear  away  the  wreck,"  and 
get  my  own  meal  in  the  pantry :  a  sort  of  little-ease  in 
a  corner  of  the  cudd}^  wherein  a  man  might  successfully 
block  all  the  crockery  from  falling  out  by  inserting  his 
body  in  its  midst.  Hungry  as  I  was,  I  could  not  eat 
there,  but  stealthily  seized  the  opportunity,  as  soon  as 
the  skipper  had  retired  to  his  state-room,  to  flee  forrard 
to  the  galley  with  the  cook.  His  domain  consisted  of 
an  erection  about  six  feet  square,  with  sliding  doors  on 
either  side,  which  was  lashed  firmly  down  to  ring-bolts 
in  the  deck.  A  coal-locker  ran  across  it  at  the  back,  its 
lid  forming  a  seat.  Between  it  and  the  stove  there  was 
just  room  to  turn,  while  most  of  the  cooking  utensils — 
no  great  store — had  i)ermanent  positions  on  the  range. 

Here,  by  the  dim  flicker  of  an  antique  contrivance 
of  a  lamp  like  a  handleless  teapot — the  wick  sticking 
out  of  the  spout  and  giving  almost  as  much  smoke  as 
flame, — I  spent  quite  a  pleasant  hour  with  the  ancient 
mariner  who  ruled  there,  eating  a  hearty  supper  of 
biscuit  and  tea.  He  was  not  in  the  best  of  spirits,  for 
the  drink  was  dying  out  of  him;  but  his  garrulous, 
inconsequent  talk  amused  me  mightily.  At  last,  feeling 
that  I  might  be  wanted,  I  returned  to  the  cabin,  where 
I  found  the  captain  and  Chips  making  melody  with 
their  snores ;  ]\Ir,  Svensen  being  on  deck  keeping  watch, 
for  which  none  of  the  crew  were  yet  available.  And, 
finding  no  other  corner  wherein  I  might  creep,  I  made 
just  such  a  lau-  as  a  dog  might,  in  the  hutch  that  held 
my  scanty  stock  of  clothing,  and,  crawling  into  it,  was 
soon  in  the  land  of  perfect  peace. 


(  11  ) 


CHAPTEE   11. 


OUTWARD-BOUND. 


Something  banging  at  the  bulkhead  close  to  my  ear 
aroused  me  from  a  deep  sleep  in  great  alarm.  The  hole 
in  which  I  lay  was  so  pitchy  dark  that,  even  when  I 
realized  where  I  was,  which  took  some  little  time, 
I  fumbled  fruitlessly  about  for  several  minutes  before 
I  finally  extricated  myself.  When  at  last  I  stood 
upright  on  the  cuddy-deck,  I  saw  the  captain  seated 
at  the  table  writing.  He  looked  up  and  growled, 
"  Now  then,  look  lively  !  Didn't  you  hear,  '  Man  the 
windlass '  ? "  Alas  !  I  knew  no  more  what  he  meant 
than  as  if  he  had  spoken  in  Hebrew ;  but  I  gathered 
somehow  that  I  ought  to  be  on  deck.  Up  I  scrambled 
into  a  bitter,  snow-laden  north-east  wind  and  darkness 
that,  but  for  the  strange  sheen  of  the  falling  flakes, 
was  almost  Egyptian.  Shivering  as  much  with  queer 
apprehensions  as  with  cold,  I  hurried  forrard,  where 
I  found  the  mate  and  Chips  hard  at  work  getting  the 
hands  out  of  the  fo'lk'sle,  and  up  on  top  of  it,  to  where 
the  two  gaunt  levers  of  the  windlass  made  a  blacker 
streak  in  the  prevailing  darkness.  Tumbling  up  against 
Jem,  the  darky,  he  said,  as  well  as  his  chattering  teeth 
would  allow,  "  Specs  yo  gotter  haul  back  chain  longer 


12  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

me,  boy;  yars  a  hook  fer  yer," — putting  into  my  band, 
as  be  spoke,  a  long  iron  book  witb  a  cross-handle. 
Then,  when  at  last  the  half-dead  sailors  began  to  work 
the  levers,  and  the  great  clumsy  windlass  revolved,  Jem 
and  I  hooked  on  to  the  massive  links  of  the  cable,  dragging 
it  away  from  the  barrel  and  ranging  it  in  long  flakes 
beside  the  fore-hatch.  Every  few  fathoms,  when  the 
chain  had  worked  its  way  right  across  the  barrel,  and 
the  turns  were  beginning  to  jam  one  another  up  against 
the  bitt,  Jem  called  out,  "  Fleet,  oh  !"  Then  a  couple  of 
men  descended  from  Mount  Misery  and  hooked  a  mighty 
iron  claw,  which  was  secured  by  a  stout  chain  to  the  bitt, 
on  to  the  cable  before  the  windlass.  This  held  the 
whole  weight  while  the  turns  of  chain  were  loosed  and 
laboriously  lifted  back  to  the  other  end  of  the  windlass- 
barrel  again.  When  thick  with  mud,  so  that  each  link 
was  more  like  a  badly  made  raw  brick  than  aught  else, 
this  primitive  performance  was  an  uncouth  job,  and 
I  could  imagine  many  pleasanter  occupations. 

Two  o'clock  on  a  winter's  morning,  struggling  with 
mud-besmeared  masses  of  iron,  upon  a  footing  so  greasy 
that  standing  was  a  feat,  hungry  and  sleepy  withal, 
there  was  little  romance  about  this  business.  At  last 
the  mate  bawled,  "  She's  short,  sir  !  "  and  told  the  men 
to  "  'Vast  heavin'."  Out  of  the  gloom  around  the  tug- 
boat emerged,  coming  close  alongside  to  receive  her 
end  of  the  big  rope  by  which  she  was  to  drag  us  out 
to  sea.  Xo  sooner  was  it  fast  than  a  strange  voice  aft 
— the  Channel  pilot's — roared  out,  "Heave  right  up,  sir! " 
"Aye,  aye,  sir!"  answered  the  mate.  "Heave  'way, 
boys !  "  The  clatter  of  the  pawls  recommenced,  con- 
tinuing until  the  anchor  was  as  high  as  it  would  come. 
The  subsequent    "catting"  and  "fishing"  of  the    big 


OUTWAED-DOUND.  io 

"  mud-book "  was  all  a  confused  dream  to  me.  All 
I  knew  was  that  I  had  to  sit  down  and  pull  at  a  rope 
which  was  wound  round  a  capstan  by  the  steady  tramp 
of  the  crew,  of  whom  one  would  occasionally  growl  at 
me  to  mind  my  "surge,"  and  I  would  feel  a  jerk  at  my 
rope  that  shook  me  up  dreadfully.  It  seemed  an 
interminable  job ;  but,  like  everything  else,  came  to  an 
end  at  last.  The  mate  now  walked  aft,  ordering  Jem 
and  my  small  self  to  coil  ropes  up  and  clear  away 
generally.  But  he  called  out  almost  immediately,  "All 
hands  lay  aft  to  muster !  "  The  whole  crowd  slouched 
aft,  grouping  themselves  at  the  break  of  the  poop,  where 
a  sort  of  elevated  deck  began  just  before  the  mizzenmast. 
Each  individual's  name  was  now  read  out  and  answered 
to  as  announced.  I  found  that  there  were  six  able 
seamen,  and  the  nigger-boy,  Jem,  "  foremast  hands." 
The  captain,  mate,  Chips,  cook,  and  myself  formed 
the  "  afterguard." 

The  "  crowd "  were  now  divided  into  watches,  the 
mate  having  first  pick  for  the  port  watch,  and  getting 
Jem  over.  This  ceremony  concluded,  the  word  was 
passed  to  "  Pump  ship."  Several  grumbling  comments 
were  made  on  the  "  one-arm  sailor  "  pumps :  a  mean, 
clumsy  contrivance,  only  fit  for  the  smallest  vessels, 
requiring  twice  the  exertion  for  half  the  result  obtain- 
able from  any  of  the  late  patents.  But  the  amazement 
and  disgust  of  the  fellows  can  hardly  be  imagined  when, 
after  half  an  hour's  vigorous  "  Clankety,  clankety, 
clankety,  bang !  " — three  strokes  and  a  pause  as  the 
fashion  is — there  was  no  sign  of  a  "  suck."  A  burly 
Yorkshireman,  leaning  up  against  the  brake  to  mop  his 

brow,  said,  "Well,  boys,  if  this old  scow  ain't  just 

sprung  a  leak,  or  bin  left  fur  'bout  a  month  thout  pumpin', 


14  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

we're  in  for  a iiiic  thing  ov  it."     There  ^Yilb  hardly 

any  intelligible  response,  they  all  seemed  choking  with 
rage  and  curses.  However,  they  sucked  her  out,  and 
then  the  big  man  asked  Chips  quietly  whether  that 
"  spell  "  was  usual.  Chips  assured  him  that  she  had  not 
been  baled  out  for  a  long  time,  and  that  she  would 
certainly  "take  up"  in  a  day  or  two.  Oil  on  the 
troubled  waters,  but  very  risky,  for  he  had  only  just 
joined  himself;  nor  did  he  know  anything  of  the  old 
tub's  previous  record. 

Meanwhile  the  cook,  or  "doctor,"  as  his  sea-sobriquet 
is,  had  been  busy  making  coffee.  Unlike  any  beverage 
called  by  that  name  ashore,  even  the  funny  mixture 
sold  at  a  halfpenny  a  cup  at  street  corners  being  quite 
luxurious  in  comparison  with  it,  yet  it  was  a  godsend — 
boiling  hot,  with  plenty  of  sugar  in  it — to  those  poor 
wretches  with  the  quenchless  thirst  of  man}-  day's 
indulgence  in  the  vilest  liquor  making  their  throats 
like  furred  old  drain-pipes.  It  calmed  the  rising  storm, 
besides  doing  them  a  vast  amount  of  physical  good. 
I  was  at  once  busy  supplying  the  wants  of  the  officers, 
to  whom  the  refreshment  was  heartily  welcome.  All 
the  time,  we  were  ploughing  steadil}^  along  behind  the 
strenuous  tug  at  a  greater  rate  than  ever  I  saw  the  old 
barky  go  afterwards.  (I  have  omitted  to  mention  that 
we  were  bound  for  Demerara  with  a  general  cargo, 
but  our  subsequent  destination  was  not  settled  yet.) 
All  hands  were  allowed  a  pretty  long  spell  of  rest,  with 
the  exception  of  the  man  at  the  wheel,  and  one  on  the 
look-out,  because,  until  we  were  well  out,  sail  would  have 
been  more  hindrance  than  help.  The  wind  increased  as 
we  got  farther  down,  until,  as  we  passed  out  of  the  river, 
quite  a  sea  was  rising,  to  which  the  old  hooker  began  to 


I 


OUTWARD-BOUND.  15 

bob  and  curtsey  like  a  country  girl  looking  for  a  situation. 
The  relentless  tug,  however,  tore  her  through  the  fast- 
rising  waves,  making  them  break  over  the  bows  in  heavy 
spray.  This  was  uncomfortable,  but  the  motion  was  far 
worse.  All  the  horrors  of  sea-sickness  came  suddenly 
upon  me,  and,  like  an  ailing  animal,  I  crept  into  a  corner 
on  the  main-hatch  under  the  long-boat,  wishing  for 
oblivion.  Sea-sickness  is  a  theme  for  jesting,  no  doubt, 
but  those  who  have  suffered  from  it  much,  know  how 
little  room  there  is  for  laughter  at  such  suffering — suffer- 
ing too  for  which,  at  the  time,  there  seems  no  hope  of 
alleviation  except  the  impossible  one  of  the  motion 
ceasing. 

From  that  morning  for  several  days  I  remained  in 
this  miserable  condition,  not  caring  a  pin's  point  whether 
I  lived  or  died,  nor,  with  the  sole  exception  of  the  negro, 
Jem,  did  any  one  else  on  board  seem  to  give  me  one 
moment's  thought.  Not  that  I  would  lightly  accuse 
them  of  cruelty  or  callous  indifference  to  suffering ;  but, 
being  all  fully  occupied  with  their  work,  they  had  little 
leisure  to  attend  to  a  seasick  urchin  that  was  of  small 
use  at  his  best.  However,  poor  black  Jem  never  forgot 
me,  and,  although  he  had  nothing  likely  to  tempt  my 
appetite,  he  always  brought  his  scanty  meals  to  where  I 
lay  helpless  under  the  long-boat,  trying  in  various  quaint 
ways  to  coax  me  into  a  returning  interest  in  life. 
Fortunatel}'  for  me,  the  wind  held  in  a  quarter  that 
enabled  the  ship  to  get  out  of  the  Channel  fairly  soon, 
considering  her  limitations,  and,  once  across  the  dreaded 
stretch  of  the  Bay  of  Biscay,  she  speedily  ran  into  fine 
weather  and  smoother  seas. 

When  I  did  eventually  find  my  sea-legs,  and  resumed 
my  duties  in  the  cabin,  I  was  received  with  no  good 


16  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

grace  by  my  uncle  or  the  doctor.  The  latter  had,  indeed, 
special  cause  to  feel  himself  aggrieved,  since  he  had 
borne  the  burden  of  double  duty  during  my  illness  :  a 
hardship  which  he  was  a  long  time  in  forgetting.  But 
she  Avas  an  unhappy  ship.  The  skipper  held  aloof  from 
everybody,  hardly  holding  converse  with  the  mate.  He 
even  kept  the  ship's  reckoning  alone,  not  accepting  the 
mate's  assistance  in  taking  the  sun  for  the  longitude  in 
the  morning,  but  doing  it  all  himself  after  a  fashion  of 
his  own,  so  that  the  chief  officer  was  as  ignorant  of  the 
vessel's  true  position  as  I  was.  Then  the  food,  both 
forrard  and  aft,  was,  in  addition  to  being  strictly  on  the 
abominable  official  scale  which  is  a  disgrace  to  a  civilized 
countr}',  of  so  unspeakably  vile  a  quality  that  it  was 
hardly  fit  to  give  to  well-reared  pigs.  I  have  often  seen 
the  men  break  up  a  couple  of  biscuits  into  a  pot  of  coffee 
for  their  breakfast,  and,  after  letting  it  stand  a  minute  or 
two,  skim  off  the  accumulated  scum  of  vermin  from  the 
toj) — maggots,  weevils,  etc. — to  the  extent  of  a  couple  of 
table-spoonsful,  before  they  could  shovel  the  mess  into 
^  their  craving  stomachs.  Enough,  however,  for  the 
present  on  the  food-question,  which,  being  one  of  the 
prime  factors  in  a  sailor's  life,  must  continually  be 
cropping  up. 

The  bleak,  biting  edge  of  the  winter  weather  was 
now  gone,  the  steady  north-easterly  breeze  blew  mild 
and  kindly,  while  from  an  almost  cloudless  heaven  the 
great  sun  beamed  benignantl}' — his  rays  not  yet  so  fierce 
as  to  cause  any  discomfort.  M3'  sensations  on  first  dis- 
covering that  no  land  was  visible,  that  we  seemed  the 
solitar}'  centre  of  an  immense  blue  circle,  whose  sharply 
defined  circumference  was  exactly  joined  to  the  vast 
azure  dome  overhead,  were  those  of  utter  loneliness  and 


OUTWARD-BOUNI).  17 

terror.  For  I  knew  nothing  of  the  waj^s  of  navigators 
across  this  pathless  plaiu,  nor  realized  any  of  the  verities 
of  the  subject  set  forth  in  the  few  books  I  had  read. 
School  learning  1  had  none.  Had  there  been  any  one 
to  whom  I  could  have  gone  for  information,  without 
fearing  a  brutal  repulse,  I  should  doubtless  have  felt  less 
miserable  ;  but,  as  it  was,  use  alone  gradually  reconciled 
me  to  the  solemn  silence  of  the  illimitable  desert  around. 
At  rare  intervals  vessels  appeared,  tiny  flecks  of  white 
upon  tlie  mighty  waste,  which  only  served  to  emphasize 
its  immensity  as  the  solitary  light  of  a  taper  does  the 
darkness  of  some  huge  hall. 

But  the  sea  itself  was  fall  of  interest.  Of  course  I 
had  little  leisure  ;  but  what  I  had  was  spent  mostly  in 
hanging  spell-bound  over  the  side,  gazing  with  ever- 
growing wonder  and  delight  upon  this  marvellous  world 
of  abounding  life.  This  early  acquired  habit  never  left 
me,  for,  many  years  afterwards,  when  second  mate  of  one 
of  our  finest  passenger  clippers,  I  enjoyed  nothing  so 
much  as  to  pass  an  hour  of  my  watch  below,  seated  far 
out  ahead  of  the  ship  by  the  martingale,  gazing  down 
into  the  same  beautiful  sea. 

There  were  no  books  on  board  or  reading  matter  of 
any  kind,  except  the  necessary  works  on  navigation  on  the 
captain's  shelf;  so  it  was  just  as  well  that  I  could  take 
some  interest  in  our  surroundings,  if  I  was  not  to  die 
mentally  as  most  of  the  sailors  seemed  to  have  done. 
As  I  got  better  acquainted  with  them,  even  daring  to  pay 
stolen  visits  to  their  darksome  home  in  timorous  defiance 
of  the  stern  orders  of  my  uncle,  I  found,  to  my  amaze- 
ment, that  they  could  tell  me  nothing  of  what  I  wanted 
to  know.  Their  kindness  often  went  the  length  of  invent- 
ing  fabulous    replies  to  my  eager  questions,   but  they 


18  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

seemed  totally  ignorant  of  anything  connected  with  the 
wonders  of  the  ocean. 

The  days  slipped  rapidly  away,  until  we  entered  the 
Sargasso  Sea,  that  strange  vortex  in  the  middle  of  the 
Atlantic.  It  was  on  a  Sunday  morning,  when,  according 
to  custom,  no  work  was  a-doing,  except  for  the  doctor  and 
me.  Even  our  duties  were  less  exacting  than  usual ;  so 
that  I  was  able  to  snatch  many  a  short  spell  of  gazing 
overside  at  the  constantl}^  increasing  masses  of  Gulf- 
weed  that,  in  all  its  delicate  beauty  of  branch  and  bud, 
came  brushing  past  our  sides.  That  afternoon  the  sea, 
as  far  as  eye  could  reach,  bore  no  bad  resemblance  to  a 
ripe  hayfield,  the  weed  covering  the  water  in  every 
direction,  with  hardly  a  patch  of  blue  amid  the  pre- 
vailing yellow.  Before  the  light  trade-wind  we  were 
hardly  able  to  make  any  headway  through  the  invest- 
ing vegetation,  which  overlaid  the  waves  so  heavily  that 
the  surface  was  smooth  as  a  millpond.  Through  the 
bewildering  mazes  of  that  aquatic  forest  roved  an 
innumerable  multitude  of  fish  of  every  shape,  size,  and 
hue,  while  the  branches  themselves  swarmed  with 
Crustacea,  so  that  a  draw-bucket  full  of  weed  would  have 
furnished  quite  a  large-sized  aquarium  with  a  sufficiently 
varied  population.  I  could  have  wished  the  day  forty- 
eight  hours  long ;  but  I  was  the  only  one  on  board  that 
derived  any  pleasure  from  the  snail-like  progress  we 
made.  The  captain's  vexation  showed  itself  in  many 
ways,  but  mostl}'  in  inciting  Chips  to  order  various 
quite  uncalled-for  jobs  of  pulling  and  hauling,  which 
provoked  the  watch  so  much  that  there  was  a  continual 
rumble  of  bad  language  and  growling.  Even  the  twenty 
minutes'  spell  at  the  j)umps,  which,  from  its  regularity 
every  two  hours,  now  passed  almost  unnoticed,  was  this 


OUTWARD-BOUND.  19 

afternoon  the  signal  for  a  great  deal  of  outspoken  and 
unfavourable  comment  upon  the  characters  of  ship, 
owner,  and  captain.  The  latter  gentleman  paced  his 
small  domain  with  uncertain  tread,  as  usual ;  but  the 
glitter  in  his  eye,  and  the  set  of  his  heavily  bearded  lips, 
showed  how  sorely  he  was  tempted  to  retaliate.  But  he 
prudently  forbore,  well  aware  of  his  helplessness  in  case 
of  an  outbreak,  as  well  as  being  forced  to  admit  full 
justification  for  the  ])itter  remarks  that  were  so  freely 
indulged  in. 

Indeed,  it  was  a  serious  question  how  long  the 
present  peace  would  last.  The  rigging  was  dropping 
to  pieces ;  so  that  a  man  never  knew,  when  he  went 
aloft,  whether  he  would  not  come  crashing  down  by  the 
run,  from  the  parting  of  a  rotten  footrope  or  a  perished 
seizing.  The  sails  were  but  rags,  worn  almost  to  the 
thinness  of  muslin,  every  flap  threatening  to  strip  them 
from  the  yards.  There  was  no  material  for  repairs,  no 
new  rope,  canvas,  or  "seizing-stuff;"  half  a  barrel  of 
Stockholm  tar,  and  a  few  pieces  of  old  "junk  "  for  sennit 
and  spunyarn,  representing  all  the  boatswain's  stores  on 
board.  In  fact,  the  absence  of  all  those  necessaries, 
which  are  to  be  found  on  board  the  most  poverty- 
stricken  of  ships,  for  their  bare  preservation  in  service- 
able condition,  was  a  never-failing  theme  of  discussion 
in  the  folksle.  And  one  conclusion  was  invariably 
arrived  at,  albeit  the  avenues  of  talk  by  which  it  was 
reached  were  as  tortuous  and  inconsequent  as  could 
well  be.  It  was  the  grim  one  that  the  Arabella  was 
never  intended  to  return.  This  thought  tinctured  all 
the  men's  ideas,  embittered  their  lives,  and  made  the 
most  ordinary  everyday  tasks  seem  a  burden  almost  too 
grievous  to  be  borne. 


20  THE  LOG    OF   A    SEA- WAIF. 

Had  it  not  been  for  the  overwhelming  evidence  that 
the  condition  of  the  afterguard  was  almost  as  miserable 
as  their  own,  the  abject  humility  of  the  mate,  in  spite 
of  his  really  good  seamanship,  and  the  hail-fellow-well- 
met  way  in  which  Chips  confessed  his  utter  ignorance 
of  all  sailorizing  whatever,  I  very  much  doubt  whether 
there  would  not  have  been  a  mutiny  before  we  were  a 
fortnight  out.  But  as  the  villainous  food  and  incessant 
pumping  were  not  aggravated  by  bullying  and  "  working 
up,"  matters  jolted  along  without  any  outbreak.  Born 
as  I  was  under  an  unlucky  star,  my  insignificance 
nearly  overthrew  the  peace  that  was  so  precariously 
kept.  The  deadly  dulnesa  of  the  cabin  was  so  stifling, 
that  I  felt  as  if  I  should  die  there  in  the  long,  dreary 
evenings  between  supper  and  bunk.  Nothing  to  read, 
nobody  to  speak  to,  nothing  to  do,  and  forbidden  with 
threats  to  go  forrard  among  the  men — that  I  should 
transgress  sooner  or  later  was  a  certainty.  I  took  to 
creeping  forrard  oftener  and  more  openly,  because  no 
detection  followed,  until  a  sharp  rope's-ending  from  my 
uncle  brought  me  up  "with  a  round  turn,"  as  the 
sailor  says.  By  this  time  I  had  become  rather  a 
favourite  forrard,  as  well  as  something  of  a  toy,  being 
very  small  for  my  age  and  precocious  as  might  be 
expected  from  my  antecedents.  One  man  especially — 
Joe,  the  big  Yorkshireman — became  strongly  attached 
to  me,  endeavouring  to  teach  me  thoroughly  the  rudi- 
ments of  sailorizing.  This  was  at  considerable  sacrifice 
of  his  own  time,  which,  as  he  was  an  ardent  model- 
maker,  was  sufficient  proof  of  his  liking  for  me. 

Now  I  was  almost  destitute  of  clothing,  and  what 
little  I  did  possess  I  was  rapidly  growing  out  of.  So 
the   next    day   after   my   disciplinary   eastigation,    Joe 


OUTWARD-BOUND.  21 

walked  aft  in  his  watch  below  demanding  audience  of 
the  skipper.  There  was  an  unpleasant  scowl  on  the 
old  man's  face,  as  he  came  on  deck  to  see  the  audacious 
man,  that  boded  ill  for  the  applicant  in  any  case.  But 
when  Joe  boldly  tackled  him  for  a  bit  of  light  canvas 
whereof  he  might  make  me  a  "  Cunarder "  (a  sort  of 
habergeon)  and  a  pair  of  trousers,  the  skipper's  face 
grew  black  with  rage.  The  insult,  all  the  grosser  for 
its  truth,  was  too  obvious.  When  he  found  his  tongue, 
he  burst  into  furious  abuse  of  Joe  for  daring  to  come 
aft  on  such  an  errand.  Joe,  being  no  lamb,  replied 
with  interest,  to  the  delight  of  his  fellows,  who  strolled 
aft  as  far  as  the  mainmast  to  hear  the  fun.  This 
unseemly  wrangle,  so  subversive  of  all  order  or  discipline, 
lasted  for  about  ten  minutes,  during  which  time  I  stood 
shivering  at  the  foot  of  the  cabin  ladder  in  dread  of  the 
sequel.  Finally  the  old  man,  unable  to  endure  any 
more,  roared,  "  Get  forrard  or  I'll  shoot  ye,  ye  d — d 
ugly  thief  of  a  sea-lawyer !  I'll  have  ye  by  the  heels 
yet,  an'  w'en  I  do  ye'll  think  Jemmy  Smallback's 
gruppin'  ye !  "  With  this  parting  shot  he  turned  on 
his  heel  without  waiting  the  retort  discourteous  that 
promptly  followed,  descending  abruptly  into  the  cabin 
with  the  ironical  cheers  of  the  delighted  crevv^  ringing 
unmelodiously  in  his  ears. 

Under  such  provocation  it  was  little  wonder  that 
I  paid  for  all.  It  must  have  been  balm  to  my  relative's 
wounded  pride  to  rope's-end  me ;  at  any  rate,  he  did 
so  with  a  completeness  that  left  nothing  to  be  desired. 
And,  in  order  to  avenge  himself  fully,  he  closed  our 
interview  by  kicking  me  forrard,  daring  me,  at  the 
same  time,  ever  to  defile  his  cabin  again  with  my 
mischief-making  presence  under  pain  of  neck-twisting. 


22  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

Of  course  I  was  received  in  the  fo'lk'sle  with  open 
arms.  My  reception  went  far  to  mollif}'  vay  sore  back, 
for  the  seclusion  of  the  cabin  had  grown  so  hateful, 
that  I  would  willingly  have  purchased  my  freedom  from  it 
with  several  such  coltings  as  I  had  endured,  not  to  speak 
of  the  honour  of  being  welcomed  as  a  sort  of  martyr. 
Before  long  I  owned  quite  a  respectable  rig-out,  made 
up,  by  the  dexterity  of  Joe,  from  all  sorts  of  odds  and 
ends  contributed  by  all  hands  at  a  tarpaulin  muster. 
Now  each  man  vied  with  the  other  in  teaching  me  all 
they  knew  of  their  business,  and  I  was  such  an  apt 
pupil  that,  in  a  short  time,  they  were  able  to  boast  that 
there  was  no  knot  or  splice  known  to  seafarers,  that  1 
was  not  capable  of  making  in  sailor  fashion.  Being  no 
climbist,  as  might  be  expected  from  an  urchin  born  and 
bred  in  London  streets,  getting  used  to  the  rigging  was 
unpleasant  at  first ;  but  that  was  mastered  in  its  turn, 
until  nothing  remained  unlearned  but  the  helm.  The 
one  aim,  apparently,  of  every  man  forrard  was  to  so 
fit  me  for  the  work  I  might  be  called  upon  to  do,  as 
that  no  excuse  might  be  found  for  cruelty  of  any  sort. 
Whether  I  had  the  ability  to  meet  his  demands  or  not, 
it  did  not  seem  prudent  for  the  old  man  to  try  his  hand 
on  me  again  in  the  colting  line,  and  I  went  gaily  enough 
on  my  progressive  way. 


CHAPTER  III. 

AKRIVAL    AT    DEMERARA. 

If  all  sea-voyages  were  like  the  usual  passage  to  the 
West  Indies,  except  for  an  occasional  nasty  spell  of 
weather  in  the  English  Channel,  the  sailor's  life  would 
be  a  very  easy  one.  Day  succeeds  day  under  the  same 
limpid  blue  sky  fringed  at  the  horizon  with  a  few  tufts 
of  woolly  cumuli.  Placid  as  a  sheltered  lake,  every 
wavelet  melting  into  its  fellow  like  a  caress,  the 
sapphire  sea  greets  the  gazer  every  morning  like  a 
glad  smile  of  unfathomable  love.  Beautiful  beyond 
description  is  the  tender  tropical  sea,  and  hard  indeed 
it  is  to  realize  that  this  same  delightsome  expanse  of 
inexpressible  loveliness  can  ever  become  the  unappeas- 
able destroyer,  before  whose  wrath  even  the  deep-rooted 
islands  seem  to  shake. 

The  nights  rival  the  days.  During  the  absence  of  the 
moon  the  blue-black  vault  appears  like  a  robe  of  imperial 
purple,  besprent  with  innumerable  diamonds  of  a  lustre 
unknown  to  earth's  feeble  gems.  So  brilliant  is  the 
radiance  of  the  heavenly  host  that  even  the  unassisted 
eye  can  detect  the  disc  of  Venus  or  Jupiter,  while  the 
twin  streams  of  the  Galaxy  literally  glow  with  diffused 
light,  suggesting  unutterable  glories  in  their  unthinkable 
depths.  And  up  from  the  horizon  towards  the  zenith, 
with  clear  yet  indefinite  outline,  as  of  the  uplifted  finger 


24  THE  LOO    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

of  God,  rises  the  mysterious  conical  flame-shadow  of 
the  Zodiacal  Light.  UDder  such  a  sky  the  sea  seems 
to  emulate  the  starry  vault  above,  for  in  its  darkling 
depths  there  is  a  marvellous  display  of  gleaming  corusca- 
tions. In  the  foam  churned  uj)  by  the  vessel's  bows 
they  sparkle  and  glitter  incessantly,  while  in  her  wake, 
where  the  liquid  furrow  still  eddies  and  whirls  from 
the  passing  of  the  keel,  there  are  a  myriad  dancing 
lights  of  every  size  and  degree  of  brilliancy.  Like  a 
bevy  of  will-o'-the-wisps  they  sport  and  whirl,  glow 
and  fade — never  still,  never  alike,  yet  always  lovely. 

But  when  the  full-orbed  moon  in  a  molten  glow  of 
purest  silver,  before  which  the  qjq  shrinks  almost  with 
pain,  traverses  the  purple  concave  as  a  conquering 
queen  escorted  by  her  adoring  subjects,  the  night 
becomes  a  sweeter,  softer  day,  in  which  men  may  sit 
at  ease  reading  or  working  as  fancy  dictates.  They 
dare  not  sleep  in  that  white  glare,  lest  with  distorted 
features  and  sightless  eyeballs,  they  vainly  regret  their 
careless  disregard  of  the  pale  beam's  power.  And  as  the 
stately  satellite  settles  slowly  horizonwards,  or  ascends 
majesticall}'  towards  the  zenith,  how  dazzling  the  mile- 
wide  pathway  of  shimmering  radiance  she  sheds  along 
the  face  of  the  deep  !  The  whalers,  with  more  poetic 
feeling  than  one  would  expect,  call  it  the  "  moon-glade," 
as  though  she  must  needs  spread  a  savannah  of  splendour 
for  her  solemn  progress  over  the  waste  of  ocean. 

Here,  perhaps,  I  should  pause  to  disarm  criticism, 
if  possible.  Such  thoughts  as  I  have  feebly  tried  to 
express  were  undoubtedly  mine  in  those  youthful  days, 
in  spite  of  squalid  surroundings  and  brutal  upbringing. 
And  if  I  could  fairly  reproduce  the  multitude  of  fancies 
which  throng  my  memory  as  being  the  daily  attendants 


ARRIVAL   AT  BEMEBARA.  25 

of  my  boyish  daydreams,  I  should  fear  no  unfavourable 
reception  of  such  a  book  as  they  would  make. 

But  to  our  voyage.  Coming  on  deck  one  morning 
soon  after  daylight,  I  was  startled  to  notice  that  the 
bright  blue  of  the  sea  was  gone.  In  its  place  a  turbid 
leaden  flood  without  a  sparkling  wavelet  extended  all 
around.  I  asked  the  doctor  what  this  strange  change 
meant.  "  Gettin'  near  land,  I  s'pose  !  "  was  his  gruff 
reply.  Nor  did  I  get  any  other  explanation  from  the 
men,  for  none  of  them  knew  that  we  were  in  fresh  water, 
which,  rushing  down  to  the  sea  from  many  mighty 
rivers,  overlaid  the  heavier  salt  flood  for  a  great  distance 
from  land.  AVe  did  not  sight  the  lightship  Dcmcrara 
until  next  day  at  noon,  although  we  were  going  at  fully 
five  knots  an  hour.  Behind  it  the  low  palm-fringed  coast 
lay  like  a  sullen  black  cloud-bank  just  appearing  above 
the  horizon,  for  in  truth  it  was  almost  level  with  the  sea. 
Thicker  and  dirtier  grew  the  water,  until,  as  we  passed 
the  light-vessel,  we  seemed  to  be  sailing  in  a  sea  of  mud. 
Between  her  and  the  shore  we  anchored  for  the  night  and 
to  await  the  coming  of  the  pilot ;  thus  closing  our  outward 
passage,  which  might  have  been  as  successfullj-  performed 
in  an  open  boat,  so  steadily  fine  had  we  found  the  weather. 

What  a  strange  sensation  is  that  of  first  inhaling  the 
breeze  from  a  foreign  shore  !  I  stood  on  the  forecastle 
that  evening,  hardly  able  to  realize  that  we  had  crossed 
the  Atlantic,  full  of  queer  feelings  as  the  heav}'  sweet 
scent  of  the  tropical  forest  came  floating  languidly  off 
from  that  dim,  dark  line  of  land.  There  was  a  continual 
chorus  of  insects,  like  a  myriad  crickets  chirping,  the 
sharp,  crisp  notes  curiousl}^  undertoned  by  the  deep  bass 
of  the  sleepy  line  of  surf  upon  the  beach.  But  this 
persistent    music,  by    its    unvarying     monotony,  soon 


26  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

became  inaudible,  or  acted  as  a  lullaby  to  which  we  all 
succumbed  except  the  anchor- watch. 

Shortly  after  daylight  a  large  canoe  came  alongside, 
manned  by  negroes,  bearing  a  pompous-looking  negro 
pilot  in  what  he,  no  doubt,  took  to  be  a  very  swell 
costume  of  faded  serge,  surmounted  by  a  huge  straw 
hat.  He  mounted  the  side  by  the  man-ropes,  with 
the  air  of  a  conqueror.  As  he  stepped  over  the  rail 
with  a  ludicrous  assumption  of  importance,  he  said, 
patronizingly,  "  Good  mawnin',  cap'n,  hope  you'se 
berry  well,  sah?"  "  Mornin',  pilot,  same  t'  you," 
curtly  answered  the  old  man ;  and,  in  almost  the 
same  breath,  "  Dy'e  think  there's  water  'nough  on 
the  bar  frus  ?  We're  drawin'  fourteen  feet  aft." 
"Neb'  mine  'bout  dat,  cap'n;  dat'll  be  all  right.  Ise 
bettin'  big  money  dis  yah  packet  gwine  beat  'nuff 
watah  'head  ob  her  ter  float  in  er  linerbattle  ship. 
Gorbress  my  sole,  ef  I  ebber  see  sich  er  front  eend  on  er 
craf  in  my  days.  Wasser  name?  de  Arlc  doan'  it? 
ha  !  ha  !  ha  !  " — and  he  threw  back  his  head,  laughing 
so  capaciously  that  the  broad,  glistening  range  of  his 
teeth  illuminated  his  coal-black  visage  like  a  shutter 
flung  suddenly  open  to  the  sun.  But  the  old  man 
looked  sour.  Such  jeering  at  his  command  by  a  nigger 
was  in  some  sort  a  reflection  on  himself,  and,  thence- 
forward, he  held  no  more  converse  with  our  sable  guide 
than  was  necessary  for  the  working  of  the  ship. 

We  were  soon  under  way,  though  poor  Jem  and 
myself  got  in  a  disgusting  condition  of  mud  by  the  time 
the  anchor  was  up.  The  fo'lk'sle,  too,  from  the  fact  of 
the  cable  running  through  it,  was  like  a  neglected  sewer, 
the  blocks  of  foul-smelling  mud  dropping  continually 
from  the  links  as  they  came  in  through  the  hawsepipes. 


ARRIVAL   AT  DEMEBARA.  27 

x\ll  sail  was  loosed  previously,  but  only  the  jib  was  set 
until  the  anchor  was  out  of  the  ground,  when,  humoured 
by  the  helm,  she  turned  kindly  off  the  wind,  gathering 
way  from  its  pressure  on  her  broad  stern,  while  the 
"  mudhook  "  was  hove  right  up.  Then  everything  was 
set  that  would  draw,  the  wind  being  fair  and  strong ;  but, 
in  spite  of  the  favourable  conditions,  our  progress  against 
the  turbulent  ebb  of  the  great  river  was  so  slow  that  we 
were  the  best  part  of  the  day  going  the  few  miles  that 
lay  between  the  roadstead  and  the  moorings. 

But  at  last  we  reached  the  group  of  vessels  which 
lay  off  the  business  part  of  the  town.  With  great  skill 
our  pilot  tried  a  "  fl3'ing  moor,"  letting  our  anchor  go 
while  we  were  forging  ahead  at  a  good  rate,  then  imme- 
diately clewing  up  all  sail.  By  the  time  our  way  was 
exhausted,  about  ninety  fathoms  had  been  paid  out  on 
the  first  anchor.  The  second  was  then  let  go,  its  cable 
being  veered  awa}^  as  the  first  one  was  hove  in,  until  an 
equal  amount  was  out  on  each  ;  both  were  then  hove  in 
till  the  moorings  were  taut,  and  the  vessel  swung  almost 
on  a  pivot.  This  is  a  ticklish  evolution  to  perform  suc- 
cessfully in  a  crowded  anchorage  ;  but,  in  our  case,  the 
result  was  entirely  satisfactory^  saving  much  labour. 

The  sails  being  furled  and  decks  cleared  up,  work 
ceased  for  the  day.  The  curious  appearance  of  the  wide 
verandahed  houses  embowered  in  strange-looking  trees, 
the  assortment  of  vessels  of  all  rigs — from  the  smart 
Yankee  schooner  to  the  stately  iron  coolie-ship  from 
Calcutta,  the  muddy  rushing  river — all  claimed  atten- 
tion, but  for  one  attraction  that  outweighed  them  all. 
Waiting  alongside  were  two  or  three  bumboats  well 
stocked  with  fruit,  soft-tack,  eggs,  and  such  curios  as  a 
sailor  might  be  supposed  to   covet.     I  had   seen  such 


28  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

fruit  before,  on  the  other  side  of  plate-glass  windows  in 
the  West  End  of  London,  or  in  the  avenue  at  Covent 
Garden,  but  never  in  such  generous  profusion  as  now. 
One  boat  especially  was  laden  to  the  gunwale  with 
giant  bunches  of  crimson  bananas,  each  fruit  treble 
the  size  of  ordinary  ones ;  baskets  of  golden  mangoes, 
green  limes,  luscious-looking  oranges  flecked  with  green, 
and  clusters  of  immature  cocoa-nuts  :  the  kind  that  only 
contain  sweet  juice  and  delicate  jelly  within  a  soft  shell 
covered  by  husk  as  easy  to  cut  as  a  turnip.  People 
accustomed  to  regular  meals  of  decent  food  cannot 
imagine  how  the  sight  of  these  dainties  affected  our  ill- 
used  stomachs.  Happily  there  was  little  delay  in 
choosing  our  purveyor,  who  promptly  hoisted  great  part 
of  his  stock  on  deck  for  us  to  choose  from.  In  virtue 
of  being  the  only  person  in  the  fo'lk'sle  who  could  write, 
I  was  appointed  book-keeper,  my  remuneration  being  a 
fair  proportion  of  the  good  things  without  payment.  In 
reply  to  eager  inquiries,  the  bumboatman  declared  that 
he  had  no  rum,  saying  that  he  very  well  understood  the 
unwritten  law  prohibiting  the  supply  of  intoxicants  by 
the  bumboats,  and  assuring  the  men  that  if  he  were 
detected  breaking  it,  he  would  forfeit  his  license  as  well 
as  all  payment  for  goods  he  had  supplied  on  credit. 

We  were  a  happy  company  that  evening.  A  plentiful 
meal  after  such  long  abstinence  put  every  one  in  good 
spirits,  although  there  was  much  wishing  for  the  cup 
that  both  cheers  and  inebriates.  In  spite  of  this  want, 
joviality  was  the  order  of  the  night.  Song  and  dance 
went  merrily  round,  at  which  the  two  darkey  boat-boys, 
hired  by  the  skipper  to  take  him  backwards  and  for- 
wards to  the  shore,  assisted  with  great  glee.  Their  fun 
was  spontaneous  and  side-splitting,  seeming  superior  to 


AliBIVAL   AT  DEMERARA.  29 

all  external  influences — a  well  of  continual  merriment 
bubbling  ujd.  Song,  quip,  and  practical  joke  followed 
one  another  incessantly,  with  all  the  thoughtless  abandon 
of  happ3^  children,  and  mirthful  enjoyment  that  might 
have  thawed  an  anchorite.  All  the  pent-up  laughter 
of  the  passage  burst  out  that  evening,  the  first  really 
jolly  one  I  had  ever  spent. 

At  daylight  all  hands  were  busy  rigging  cargo-gear, 
for  our  lading  was  long  overdue.  The  discharging-gang 
of  negroes  were  early  on  board,  awaiting  only  our 
preparations  to  begin  their  work.  They  were  akin  to 
the  boat-boys  in  their  behaviour.  Poor,  even  to  the 
most  utter  raggedness  of  the  sacking  most  of  them  were 
covered  with — hunger-bitten,  for  all  the  provision  brought 
by  the  majority  was  a  tiny  loaf,  and  about  two  ounces 
of  sugar  each — they  were  yet  full  to  the  lips  with  sheer 
animal  delight  of  living.  Some,  the  haughty  aristocrats 
of  the  party,  proudly  displayed  fragments  of  salt  fish 
or  rusty-looking  salt  pork,  flanked  by  a  green  plantain, 
a  coco,  or  chunk  of  wooden-looking  yam ;  but  though 
these  favoured  ones  were  evidently  stuck  up,  their  j)Oorer 
brethren  showed  no  env}-.  Their  pay  was  the  equivalent 
of  one  shilling  per  day,  which,  as  the  price  of  food 
was  high,  except  for  a  very  few  local  products,  must 
have  been  all  too  little  to  keep  hunger  at  bay.  Yet, 
when  they  got  to  work,  how  thej'  did  go  at  it !  They 
seemed  to  revel  in  the  labour,  although  the  incessant 
singing  they  kept  up  ought  to  have  taken  most  of  their 
breath.  Streaming  with  sweat,  throwing  their  bodies 
about  in  sheer  wantonness  of  exuberant  strength  as  they 
hoisted  the  stuff  out  of  the  hold,  they  sometimes  grew 
so  excited  by  the  improvisations  of  the  "  chantey  man," 
who  sat  on  the  corner  of  the  hatch  solely  employed  in 


30 


TEE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 


leading  the  singing,  that  often,  while  for  a  minute  awaiting 
the  next  hoist,  they  would  fling  themselves  into  fantastic 
contortions,  keeping  time  to  the  music.  There  was  doubt- 
less great  waste  of  energy ;  but  there  was  no  slackness  of 
work  or  need  of  a  driver.  Here  is  just  one  specimen  of 
their  songs ;  but  no  pen  could  do  justice  to  the  vigour,  u 
the  intonation  and  the  ahandon  of  the  delivery  thereof.    1 

Chorvs. 


^      ^  ^  ^    ^    ^    ^  ^ 

^    ^    ^     \ 


.^-^^^-^-rf^^^-W-'^h 


■^  ^         -   -   -   ^   '^  ^ 

Sis-  ter  Seusan,  my  Aunt  Sal,  Gwineter  git  a  home  bime-by  -  high  ! 


P 


Solo. 


Chorus. 


53 


^  ^  ^  ^ 


i-^- 


s    fr  >   ^ 


""-.«— ^-5^-.^ 


^  ^  ^  '^  ^    ^    I 
J^  <r  ^  J^^  '^'  ,i: 


All  gwineter  lib  down  shin  bone  al,  Gwineter  git  a  home  bime-by. 
rail. 


Omnes. 


^     0     ^     ^     ^— ' 


a  tempo. 


^  >  >  <  ^  k 


f^=^-{ 


^ii^ 


^^-J^j^jlJ"  y.^-^^  ^  ^  ^  ^ 


>    i^        ^     ^    ^    ^    ^      r,       , 

V       V  ^ 

A 


Gwineter  git    a  home  bime-by  -  e-high,  Gwineter  git  a  home  bime-by. 

The  rushing,  muddy  stream  literally  swarmed  with 


ABBIVAL   AT  DEMERARA.  31 

ground-sharks,  who  sometimes  came  to  the  surface 
with  a  rush,  looking  terribly  dangerous.  Yet  the  negroes 
took  but  little  heed  of  them,  merely  splashing  a  bit 
before  diving  if  they  had  occasion  to  go  down  and  clear 
some  vessel's  moorings.  Sharks  and  cat-fish  were  the 
only  fish  to  be  seen  :  neither  of  them  available  for  eating. 
Strange  to  say,  the  great  heat  troubled  me  very  little. 
Perhaps  because,  having  for  so  long  regarded  cold  as 
one  of  the  chief  miseries  of  my  life,  the  steady  search- 
ing warmth  by  night  and  day  was  grateful  to  my  puny 
body.  At  any  rate,  but  that  the  bloodthirsty  mosquitoes 
and  sandflies  tormented  me  cruelly,  as  they  did  all 
hands,  the  tropical  climate  suited  me  very  well.  It 
may  have  been  the  healthy  season  too,  for,  as  far  as  I 
know,  there  was  no  illness  on  board  any  of  the  ships. 
All  our  crew  were  in  robust  health,  and  putting  on 
flesh  daily  in  consequence  of  the  liberal  diet. 

I  wanted  much  to  go  ashore,  but  dared  not  ask 
leave ;  but,  to  my  astonishment,  on  Sunday  afternoon 
the  mate  told  me  to  get  ready  and  come  ashore  with 
him.  Glad  as  I  was  of  the  chance  to  see  a  little  of 
this  strange  land,  I  felt  small  gratification  at  the 
prospect  of  being  his  companion ;  I  v;ould  rather  a 
thousand  times  have  gone  with  Joe.  However,  it  being 
Hobson's  choice  as  well  as  dangerous  to  refuse,  I  rigged 
myself  up  as  best  I  could  (a  queer  figure  I  made  too), 
got  into  the  boat  with  my  inviter,  and  away  we  went. 
Landing  at  one  of  the  "sterlings,"  as  the  wharves  are 
locally  named,  we  strolled  up  into  the  main  street  in 
silence.  It  was  a  wide  avenue  with  quite  a  river 
running  down  the  centre,  and  doubtless  on  weekdays 
would  have  been  very  lively.  But  at  this  time  it  was 
deserted,  except  by  a  few  stray  dogs  and  sleeping  negroes. 


32  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WATF. 

"We  trudged  along  without  a  word,  till  suddenly  Mr. 
Svensen  hauled  up  at  a  grog-shop,  the  bar  of  which 
was  crowded  with  seafarers.  Pressing  through  the 
throng  to  the  bar  he  called  for  some  drink,  and,  meeting 
a  couple  of  his  countrymen,  entered  at  once  into  an 
animated  conversation  with  them  in  Norwegian.  For 
over  an  hour  I  waited  impatiently,  the  air  of  the  place 
being  stifling  and  the  babel  of  tongues  deafening.  At 
last,  in  desperation,  I  crept  in  behind  him  and  attracted 
his  attention.  He  turned  sharply  upon  me,  saying, 
"Veil,  'n  \sit  joit  vant?"  "Please,  sir,"  I  humbly 
replied,  "  may  I  go  an'  have  a  look  round  ?  "  "  Oh,  co 
to  hell  ef  jon  lige,  I  ton'd  care.  Only  jou  ked  bag  to 
der  poad  pefoar  sigs  o'clog,  or  I  be  tamt  ef  I  tond  trown 
jou  coin'  off — see!  "  "Thank  you,  sir,"  I  said  gratefully, 
disappearing  promptly  before  he  had  time  to  change 
his  mind. 

What  an  afternoon  I  had,  to  be  sure.  I  wandered 
right  out  of  the  town  through  tangled  paths  crowded  on 
either  side  by  the  loveliest  flowers  growing  wild  I  had 
ever  dreamed  of.  I  was  like  a  boy  in  a  dream  now, 
except  for  that  haunting  reality  "  sigs  o'clog."  And,  to 
crown  my  pleasures,  when  I  had  strayed  as  far  as  I 
dared,  I  came  suddenly  upon  a  pretty  villa  in  an  oj)en 
glade,  the  house  itself  being  embowered  in  the  most 
gorgeous  blossoms.  I  went  up  to  the  back  of  the  premises 
to  beg  a  drink  of  water,  which  an  amiable  negress  gave 
me  with  a  beaming  smile,  squeezing  into  it  a  fresh-fallen 
lime  with  a  large  spoonful  of  white  sugar.  While  I 
drank,  a  dear  little  white  boy  about  five  years  old  came 
running  round  the  corner.  When  he  saw  me  he  stood 
for  a  moment  as  if  petrified  with  astonishment ;  then, 
recovering  his  wits,  darted  back  again.     A  kindly-faced 


ABRIVAL   AT  DEMERARA.  33 

man  in  white,  with  a  hig  hrown  beard,  then  appeared, 
leading  the  httle  one.  After  a  few  inquiries  he  invited 
me  into  the  house  to  tea,  treating  me  with  so  much 
kindness  that,  between  his  attentions  and  those  of  his 
beautiful,  weary-looking  wife,  I  was  several  times  upon 
the  point  of  bursting  into  tears.  She  plied  me  with 
questions,  soon  getting  all  my  sorrowful  little  life- story 
out  of  me  ;  and  more  than  once  I  saw  her  furtively  wipe 
away  a  tear.  The  little  son  sat  on  my  knee,  great 
friends  with  me  at  once ;  and  what  with  the  good  fare, 
the  pleasant  talk,  and  the  comfort  of  it  all,  I  forgot 
everything  else  in  the  world  for  a  time.  Suddenly  I 
caught  sight  of  the  clock — it  was  a  quarter  to  six.  I 
must  have  looked  terrified,  for  my  host,  Mr.  Mackenzie, 
asked  me  with  much  solicitude  whether  I  felt  suddenly 
ill.  As  soon  as  he  heard  the  cause  of  my  alarm  he  left 
the  house,  returning  to  the  front  in  a  minute  or  two 
with  a  beautiful  mule  and  a  smart  trap.  I  took  a 
hurried  leave  of  my  kind  hostess  and  her  child,  pro- 
mising to  come  again  if  I  could  ;  and  presently  found 
myself  bowling  along  a  level  road  at  a  great  rate  behind 
the  swift  hybrid,  who  seemed  to  glide  rather  than  trot. 
Arriving  at  the  boat,  nearly  half  an  hour  late,  we  found 
the  mate  not  yet  there,  one  of  the  boat-boys  volunteering 
the  information  that  he  was  well  drunk  up  at  the  rum- 
mill.  "That  being  so,"  said  Mr.  Mackenzie,  "I  will 
see  you  on  board."  So  we  shoved  off  for  the  ship. 
During  our  short  transit  I  told  my  new  friend  how 
matters  stood  between  my  uncle  and  myself,  begging 
him  not  to  inadvertently  make  matters  worse  for  me. 
He  promised  to  be  discreet.  We  reached  the  ship  and 
climbed  on  board.  I  fled  forrard  on  the  instant,  while 
he  interviewed  the  old  man.     Whatever  passed  between 


34  THE  LOO    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

tbein  in  their  few  minutes'  talk,  I  don't  know  ;  I  heard  no 
more  of  the  affair.  But  I  was  never  again  allowed  on 
shore  while  I  belonged  to  the  Arabella.  The  mate  came 
on  board  quietly  and  turned  in,  no  word  reaching  us 
forrard  of  any  trouble  about  his  little  flutter. 


(     35     ) 


CHAPTER  lY. 

THE    MUTINY     AND    AFTER. 

It  must  be  confessed  that  during  our  stay  in  Demerara 
the  fellows  had  a  pretty  good  time  of  it.  Since  there 
were  no  stores  on  board  of  rope,  paint,  or  canvas,  the 
work  was  mainly  confined  to  washing  decks  or  scrubbing 
paintwork,  a  good  deal  of  time  also  being  wasted  making 
sennit,  i.e.  plaiting  rope-yarns  for  chafing-gear.  What 
sailorizing  was  undertaken  was  in  the  nature  of  kill-time, 
and  well  understood  as  such  by  the  men.  Nevertheless 
they  were  by  no  means  X3leased  with  their  easy  times,  for 
they  had  not  yet  been  able  to  get  any  drink ;  their  dis- 
pleasure being  heightened  by  the  knowledge  that  the 
mate  had  been  ashore  and  got  a  skinful.  Any  one  versed 
in  the  ways  of  seamen  should  have  known  that  mischief 
was  brewing,  even  though  no  definite  plan  of  action  had 
yet  been  discussed.  It  only  wanted  a  bottle  or  two  of 
rum  to  fire  the  magazine. 

At  last  liberty  day  drew  nigh.  The  cargo  was  all 
out,  the  ballast  all  in,  no  cargo  being  obtainable  for  the 
crazy  old  Arabella  in  Demerara.  I  do  not  now  even 
know  whether  it  be  a  legal  enactment  that  seamen  shall 
be  allowed  twenty-four  hours'  freedom  in  foreign  ports, 
with  some  portion  of  the  wages  due  to  them  to  spend, 


d()  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

but  if  not,  the  custom  is  so  well  established  that  it  has 
all  the  force  of  law.  The  men  were  like  schoolboys  at 
breaking-up  time,  half  crazy  with  delight  at  the  thought 
of  the  joys  (?)  that  awaited  them  ashore.  They  received 
but  a  few  shillings  each,  much  to  their  disgust,  because 
there  w^as  as  yet  little  wages  due  to  them,  and  no 
amount  of  begging  or  bullying  could  avail  to  get  them 
any  more.  The  mate's  watch  went  first,  among  them 
my  stout  friend  Joe,  whom  I  tearfully  begged  not  to  get 
drunk  and  kick  up  a  row,  for  my  sake.  Looking  back  I 
wonder  at  my  temerity,  for  it  must  have  been  like 
getting  between  a  tiger  and  a  shin-bone  ;  but  he  took  it 
very  meekly,  and  actually  promised  that  he  would  come 
aboard  sober.  During  their  absence  the  ship  was 
strangely  quiet,  very  little  work  of  any  kind  was  done, 
and  the  waiting  watch  were  as  sulky  as  bears.  Next 
morning  about  eight  o'clock  the  revellers  returned,  all 
except  Joe,  in  a  bedraggled,  maudlin  condition  that  told 
eloquently  of  their  enjoyment.  Had  it  not  been  for  Joe 
they  would  have  all  been  in  the  lock-up,  or  "  chokey  "  as 
sailors  invariably  call  it ;  but  he  had  worked  like  a 
Trojan  to  keep  them  together  and  out  of  harm  as  much 
as  possible.  He  had  quite  a  triumphant  air  of  unwonted 
virtue  as  I  whispered  my  delight  at  seeing  him  again, 
and  sober. 

Then  the  starboard  watch,  with  the  doctor,  took 
their  innings,  with  strict  injunctions  not  to  be  late 
the  next  morning,  as  we  were  going  to  unmoor  and 
drop  down  stream  a  little  in  readiness  for  sailing.  The 
day  passed  like  the  previous  one,  black  Jem  doing  the 
doctor's  work  as  well  as  he  could  with  such  assistance 
as  I  could  give.  The  next  morning  at  daylight  pre- 
parations were  made  for  unmooring,  and  at  eight  o'clock 


THE  MUTINY  AND   AFTER.  '  37 

a  pilot  came  on  board,  a  smart-looking,  sharp-featured 
Yankee  who  looked  around  the  old  hooker  with  undis- 
guised contempt.  Nine,  ten  o'clock,  and  no  sign  of  the 
liberty  men.  The  old  man  went  ashore  on  business, 
leaving  full  instructions  with  the  mate  about  unmooring, 
which  he  expected  to  be  carried  on  in  his  absence. 
He  had  barely  been  gone  half  an  hour  when  the  starboard 
watch  returned;  but  it  was  evident  at  once  that  they 
had  their  own  views  upon  the  unmooring  question, 
which  by  no  means  coincided  with  the  skipper's.  They 
were  all  half-drunk  and  quarrelsome,  especially  the 
doctor,  who  strutted  about  more  like  a  bloodthirsty 
pirate  than  an  elderly  spoiler  of  ships'  provisions. 
Unfortunately,  too,  each  man  had  brought  with  him 
a  plentiful  supply  of  rum,  which  they  at  once  began  to 
share  with  the  port  watch,  all  except  Joe,  who  would 
have  none  of  it.  They  even  invited  Mr.  Svensen  and 
Chips  to  partake,  meeting  their  courteous  refusal  with 
quite  gratuitous  displays  of  bad  language  and  ill-temper. 
At  last,  the  mate,  mindful  of  the  wigging  he  might 
certainly  expect  on  the  skipper's  return  if  no  work  was 
afoot,  ventured  to  give  the  order,  "  Man  the  windlass  !  " 
the  pilot  taking  up  his  post  on  the  forecastle.  For  all 
answer  there  came  a  howl  of  derisive  laughter  from 
the  den,  where  all  hands,  with  one  exception,  were 
busy  "freshening  the  nip."  Mr.  Svensen  wisely  took 
no  notice ;  but,  in  a  cajoling  tone,  said,  "  Now  den, 
poys,  gum  along,  mage  a  sdart ;  ids  kedding  lade,  ju 
dond  vant  ter  ked  me  indo  a  row,  do  jer  ? "  Forth 
strode  the  truculent  doctor,  an  uncanny  figure,  all  asway 
with  drunken  rage.  "Looky  hear,  yew  square-headed  son 
of  a  bitch,  yew  ain't  agoin'  ter  border  me  about  any 
more,  so  I  tell  yer !    I  ain't  a  goin'  ter  do  another  stroke 


38  TEE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

abord  the  rotten  Large-built  old  bathin'  masheen,  so 
there !  "  (I  suppress  the  everj^-other-word  profanity 
throughout.)  During  the  delivery  of  this  speech  he 
was  wildl}-  gesticulating  and  spluttering  right  up  against 
the  mate's  breast,  shaking  his  withered  fists  in  the  big 
man's  face,  and  otherwise  behaving  like  a  very  maniac. 
The  rest  of  them  gathered  around,  adding  to  the  clamour; 
but  the  burden  of  all  was  the  same,  "  No  more  work, 
not  another  hand's-turn  aboard  this  "  (collection  of  all 
the  abusive  sea  epithets  known)  "old  lobster-pot."  Joe, 
meanwhile,  was  calmly  doing  some  trifling  job  aft,  by 
the  break  of  the  poop  on  the  starboard  side.  To  him 
sauntered  an  Irishman,  hitherto  one  of  his  best  friends, 
now  laboriously  polite  and  anxious  to  know  whether 
he  intended  being  a  sneak,  a  white-livered  et-cetera  and 
so  forth.  For  all  reply,  Joe  turned  his  back  on  him. 
I  was  cleaning  knives  on  the  same  side  forrard  by  the 
galley  door,  but  not  making  much  progress  on  account 
of  so  many  distracting  episodes  taking  place.  The 
babel  of  abuse  around  the  unfortunate  mate  was  going 
strong  all  the  time.  A  thrill  of  terror  went  through  me 
as  I  saw  the  Irishman  suddenly  lift  his  hand  and  strike 
Joe  on  the  back  of  the  neck.  He  turned  like  a  flash, 
shooting  his  right  fist  into  Patsy's  face,  with  a  crash 
that  laid  him  out,  sounding  horrible  to  me.  Without 
a  word  Joe  turned  again  to  resume  his  work.  Patsy 
gathered  himself  slowly  up  and  staggered  forward, 
bleeding  profusely,  and  muttering  disjointed  blasphemy 
as  he  came.  He  passed  me,  going  into  the  fo'lk'sle ; 
but  mj  attention  was  suddenly  attracted  by  a  yell  of 
laughter  from  the  other  side  of  the  deck.  Peeping 
round  the  galley,  I  saw  with  amazement  that  the 
drunken  devils  had    actually  triced   the  poor  mate   up 


THE  MUTINY  AND   AFTER.  39 

spread-eagle  fashion  in  the  main  rigging,  and  were 
jeering  him  to  their  hearts'  content.  Then  they  made 
a  rush  for  the  cabin.  Chips  was  nowhere  to  be  seen. 
Presently  they  returned,  bringing  the  ensign,  which  they 
proceeded  to  hoist  in  the  rigging,  Union  down,  a  sea 
signal  of  the  most  urgent  importance,  denoting  anything 
dreadful  from  fire  to  mutiny. 

A  step  beside  me  made  me  turn,  startled,  to  see 
who  it  was,  and  I  just  caught  sight  of  the  grim  blood- 
besmeared  visage  of  Patsy,  who  was  stowing  the  long 
cabin  carving-knife  in  the  waistband  of  his  pants. 
While  I  stared  at  him,  breathlessly  wondering  what  his 
little  game  might  be,  he  broke  suddenly  into  a  run 
aft  to  where  Joe  still  pursued  his  peaceful  task,  all 
undisturbed  by  the  riot  around.  "Look  out,  Joe,"  I 
f^creamed,  "he's  got  the  carving-knife!  "  The  warning 
came  only  just  in  time ;  for  as  Joe  turned  sharply  he 
met  the  raging  Patsy  at  close  quarters,  aiming  a  savage 
stab  at  him.  Naturally  lifting  his  arm,  he  received  the 
descending  blade  through  the  fleshy  fore-part  of  it ;  but, 
with  the  other,  he  caught  the  Irishman  by  the  throat, 
and  jammed  him  back  against  the  rail.  Kicking  the 
knife,  which  had  dropped  from  the  wound,  far  forward 
as  he  sprang,  he  plucked  an  iron  belaying  pin  from  its 
socket,  and  brought  it  down  with  a  sickening  thud  upon 
Patsy's  already  battered  face.  Again  he  fell,  this  time 
to  remain  until  dragged  forward,  a  limp,  disfigured 
lump. 

By  this  time  the  inverted  ensign  had  told  its  tale 
ashore,  and  a  large  canoe  well-manned  with  negro 
policemen,  under  a  white  sergeant,  was  coming  off  to 
us  at  a  spanking  pace.  This  sight  drew  all  the  mutineers 
to   the   side,  whence   they  could  watch   her   approach, 


40 


THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 


which  they  hailed  with  the  liveliest  expressions  of  joy. 
Chips  now  put  in  an  appearance,  looking  very  sheepish, 
and,  assisted  by  Joe,  released  the  mate  from  his  un- 
dignified suspension  in  the  rigging.  He  tottered  aft, 
looking  very  unwell,  and  muttering  bitter  reproaches 
on  the  carpenter  for  having  abandoned  him  to  such 
a  fate.  The  police-canoe  bumped  against  the  side,  her 
stalwart  crew  clambering  on  board  like  cats.  While  the 
officer  hastened  aft  to  hear  the  news  from  the  mate, 
his  mj'rmidons  were  amazed  to  find  themselves  hailed 
with  delight  by  the  excited  crew,  who  fraternized  with 
them  as  if  they  had  come  to  convoy  them  to  a  picnic. 
The  mate's  tale  being  soon  told,  the  sergeant  of  police 
gave  orders  to  his  men  to  arrest  the  mutineers,  and,  with 
joyful  outcry,  all  hands  hurried  forward  to  prepare  for 
their  departure. 

During  the  preparations,  the  pilot,  the  mate,  and  the 
police-officer  foregathered  on  the  poop  to  indulge  in 
a  smoke,  and  discuss  the  ways  of  seamen  in  general. 
But  though  their  palaver  lasted  a  long  time,  there  was 
no  sign  from  forrard.  At  last,  his  patience  exhausted, 
the  sergeant  strode  forward  to  the  fo'lk'sle,  demanding, 
with  man}'  objurgations,  the  reason  of  this  delay.  To 
his  rage  and  dismay  he  found  that  the  supply  of  rum 
had  been  so  plentiful,  and  had  circulated  so  freely,  that 
policemen  and  sailors  were  involved  in  one  common 
debauch.  Indeed  it  was  hard  to  say  which  was  the 
most  drunken  of  the  two  gangs.  Uproarious  was  the 
din,  nearly  every  man  shouting  some  fragment  of  song 
at  the  pitch  of  his  lungs,  or  laughing  insanely  at  the 
gorgeous  fun  of  the  whole  affair.  Back  came  the 
sergeant,  almost  speechless  with  anger  and  apprehension, 
for  this  no  doubt  meant  dire  disgrace  to  him.     He  was 


TEE  MUTINY  AND   AFTER  41 

made  worse,  if  anything,  by  the  unstinted  laughter  with 
which  the  mate  and  pilot  received  the  news.  Small 
blame  to  them,  the  thing  was  so  ludicrous. 

Up  went  the  police-flag  again — to  the  main  truck 
this  time.  In  addition  to  this  the  sergeant  hoisted  a 
small  weft  at  the  peak,  explaining  sulkily  that  this 
was  an  urgent  private  signal  for  reinforcements.  He 
added,  "An'  all  /  ho]3e  is  that  the  infernal  scoundrels 
'11  fall  out  an'  kill  one  another  before  my  boss  comes, 
or  else  I'm  booked  for  a  reduction  in  grade  that'll  dock 
me  of  a  quarter  of  pay — none  too  much  as  it  is."  Before 
many  minutes  had  passed  a  large  launch  was  seen 
approaching,  rowed  by  fourteen  men,  who,  unlike  the 
first  lot,  were  all  white.  With  them  came  our  old  man, 
whose  face  was  a  study.  I  just  caught  one  glimpse  of 
it,  and  its  fury  scared  me  so  that  I  dared  not  go  near 
him.  There  was  now  no  more  fooling ;  in  double  quick 
time  all  the  roysterers,  policemen  as  well  as  sailors, 
were  collected  from  the  fo'lk'sle,  handcuffs  put  on  them, 
their  efi'ects  flung  into  the  launch,  and  themselves 
bundled  after  with  scant  ceremony.  So  rapid  was  the 
work  that  in  less  than  ten  minutes  they  were  all  on 
their  way  ashore,  making  the  air  resound  with  their 
discordant  yells. 

A  painful  quiet  ensued.  Joe  and  I,  sole  repre- 
sentatives of  the  foremast  hands,  leisurely  cleared  up 
the  decks,  after  which  he  busied  himself  preparing 
a  meal  which  should  do  duty  for  dinner  and  supper. 
The  captain  went  ashore  again,  much  to  my  relief,  for 
while  he  was  on  board  I  couldn't  get  quit  of  the  idea 
that  in  some  way  or  other  he  would  bring  me  in 
responsible  for  his  disappointment,  and  take  his  con- 
solation out  of  my  poor  little  carcass.     I  had  been  so 


42  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

used  to  this  vicarious  sort  of  payment  of  old,  that  the 
idea  was  a  fixed  one  with  me  whenever  there  was  a  row. 
In  fact,  I  often  feel  the  old  sensation  now.  But  to-day 
he  seemed  unable  to  give  vent  to  his  feelings,  so 
nothing  disturbed  the  calm  of  the  afternoon.  Joe 
informed  me  that  he  had  gone  ashore  to  ship  a  fresh 
crew,  and  that  we  should  certainly  sail  in  the  morning, 
he  having  heard  the  old  man  tell  the  pilot  as  much 
when  he  took  the  dinner  aft. 

Sure  enough,  just  before  sunset  the  skipper  re- 
turned, bringing  with  him  a  fresh  crowd  in  j)lace  of 
the  old  hands,  who  had  each,  we  were  told,  received 
summary  sentence  of  two  months'  hard  labour.  Quick 
work.,  truly.  The  new  crew  were  a  mixed  lot.  There 
was  a  Newfoundland  Irishman  named  Flynn,  a  fat- 
faced  blubber-bodied  fellow,  who  was  for  ever  eating 
tobacco ;  a  stalwart  fiery-headed  ex-man-o'-war's  man 
who  could  only  be  called  Ginger ;  a  long,  melancholy- 
looking  Englishman,  who  signed  as  George  Harris ;  a 
Eurasian  of  gentlemanly  appearance,  but  most  foul 
and  filthy  behaviour ;  a  delicate  pretty-faced,  Liverpool 
Irishman,  with  a  fair  silky  beard,  for  cook ;  a  broad 
shouldered  Greek,  who  had  not  a  word  of  English  ;  and, 
lastly,  a  precious  piece  of  ornament  in  the  shape  of 
a  Chinaman,  pigtail  and  all,  as  if  he  had  just  come 
cut  of  Foochow,  whom  the  captain  had  shij)ped  as 
steward  for  nothing  a  month.  Gloomy  Jem,  the  un- 
fortunate negro  youth,  of  course,  remained  of  the  old 
crew.  In  some  mistj'  fashion  he  went  on  his  melancholy 
way,  the  butt  of  everybody  but  myself,  his  only  relaxation 
an  occasional  incoherent  chatter  with  me  in  some  dark 
corner,  when  there  was  no  work  afoot. 

Next    morning    at    daybreak    we    unmoored,    and 


THE  MUTINY  AND   AFTER.  43 

proceeded  down  the  muddy  river,  without  hitch  of  any 
kind.    The  new  crew  worked  well,  glad  enough,  no  doubt, 
to  leave  such  miserable  quarters  as  they  had  lately  been 
enduring.    You  Sing,  the  Celestial,  was  a  great  acquisi- 
tion.    He  was  made  to  understand  at  once,  that  what- 
ever work  was  to  be  done,  he  must  take  a  hand  in  it,  and 
he    certainly  toiled   like   a  beaver.     Beautiful   weather 
still  favoured  us,  and  with    an  occasional   glimpse  of 
what  looked  to  my  exuberant  fancy  like  fairyland  rising 
out  of  the  sparkling  blue  sea,  we  crept  steadily  westwards 
into  the  great  gulf  of  Mexico.     In  spite  of  the  miser- 
able food  and  swinish  forecastle,  the  fresh  crew  worked 
well  and  peaceably.     What  growling  they  did  was  in- 
dulged in  out  of  hearing,  and,  after  late  experiences,  I 
hardly  knew  the  old  ship.     Without  a  single  incident 
worth  recording,  we  rolled  along  until  we  sighted  the 
Mexican  coast,  which,  as  the  position  of  our  first  calling- 
place  was   somewhat   vague,  the  captain   proposed   to 
skirt   until   he  came  to  it.     The  weather  now  became 
less    settled,    squalls    of    considerable    violence    being 
frequent,  making  a  great  deal  of  sail-handling  necessary. 
One   night,    when   we   were    suddenly   called    upon    to 
shorten  sail  in  a  deluge  of  rain,  it  happened  that  the 
long    Englishman,    George    Harris,    and    Ginger,   the 
quondam  man- o'- war's  man,  found  themselves  together 
furling  the  main  to'-gallant  sail.     Now,  Ginger,  though 
a  big  fellow,  was,  as  usual  with  his  class,  of  very  little 
use   at    furling   sail    under   merchant-ship   conditions. 
Where  one  man  is  employed  in  the  merchantman,  six 
or  seven  crowd  in  on  board  of  Andrew ;  and  the  "blue- 
jacket"   is   consequently   handicapped   when    he   finds 
himself  thus  lonely.     The  sail  was  stiff  with  wet,  the 
wind  was  high,  and  George,  in  trying  to  make  up  for 


44  THE   LOO    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

Ginger's  deficiency,  ruptured  himself  badly.  He  got 
down  from  aloft  somehow,  and  took  to  his  bunk,  a  very 
sick  man.  The  treatment  he  received  only  aggravated 
his  mishap,  while  he  grew  rapidly  weaker  from  his 
inability  to  eat  the  muck,  which  even  in  his  case  was 
unchanged.  Although  never  very  friendly  with  me,  I 
was  filled  with  pity  for  him,  and  actually  so  far  forgot 
my  dread  of  the  terrible  "old  man,"  as  to  creep  below 
and  steal  a  few  cabin  biscuits,  which  were  less  coarse 
and  whiter  than  ours.  It  was  comparatively  easy  to 
evade  the  officers,  and  I  chuckled  greatly  over  my 
smartness,  being  richly  rewarded  by  the  gratitude  of 
the  invalid,  who  made  quite  a  hearty  meal  of  my  plunder 
soaked  with  some  sugar.  But  I  reckoned  without  You 
Sing.  That  slit-eyed  pagan  in  some  unholy  fashion  found 
me  out,  and  at  once  betrayed  me  to  the  skipper,  of  whom 
he  stood  in  such  awe,  that  he  was  ready  to  jump  over- 
board at  a  nod  from  him.  I  was  called  aft,  questioned, 
and  found  guilty.  There  and  then,  with  a  bight  of  the 
gaft'-topsail  halliards,  he  gave  me  such  a  dressing  down 
as  I  have  never  forgotten.  You  Sing  standing  by  with 
a  face  like  a  door-knocker  for  expressionless  calm.  Even 
amid  my  sharpest  pangs  I  rejoice  to  think  I  didn't  howl. 
Perhaps  I  gained  little  by  that.  At  last  the  skipper 
flung  me  fpm  him,  saying  grimlj^  "  Now  ye  can  go  an' 
thank  George  Harris  for  that."  And  when,  twenty 
years  after,  I  saw  that  stern  old  man,  reduced  to  earning 
a  precarious  living  as  a  ship-keeper,  fall  from  a  ship's 
side  in  the  Millwall  Dock,  injuring  himself  so  frightfully 
that  death  would  have  been  refreshment,  I  could  not 
help  thinking  of  the  grist  which  is  ground  by  the  Mills 
of  the  Gods.  Joe,  my  faithful  ally,  was  furious  when 
I   went    forward    quivering   with   pain.      He   was    for 


THE  MUTINY  AND   AFTEB.  45 

vengeance,  first  on  the  old  man,  then  on  the  placid  pig 
who  had  betrayed  me ;  but  I  begged  so  hard  that  he 
wouldn't  make  matters  worse  by  interfering  that  at 
last  he  yielded.  But  he  never  settled  down  again 
satisfactorily. 

Just  a  week  afterwards  we  came  to  a  slight  indenta- 
tion in  the  coast,  where  a  Norwegian  barque  lay  at 
anchor.  From  her  we  got  the  information  that  the 
place  was  called  Tupilco,  upon  which  we  anchored,  it 
being  our  port  of  call  for  orders.  The  anchor  was  no 
sooner  down  than  Harris  crawled  aft  and  implored  the 
captain  to  take  him  ashore  so  that  he  might  get  some 
medical  aid.  Desire  of  life  made  the  poor  fellow  quite 
eloquent,  but  he  might  as  well  have  appealed  to  a 
bronze  joss.  AYhen,  exhausted,  he  paused  for  breath, 
the  old  man  said,  with  bitter  emphasis,  "  Ef  I'd  ben  a 
loafin'  on  m}'  shipmets  s'long's  ijon  hev',  I'd  take  'n 
heave  me  useless  carcass  overboard,  ye  wuthless  sojer. 
Git  forrard  'n  die.  It's  'bout  the  bes'  thing  you  ken  do." 
George  crept  forrard  again  without  a  word. 

We  lay  at  this  forsaken-looking  spot  for  four  days, 
holding  no  communication  with  the  shore  except  twice, 
when  a  launch  came  off,  manned  by  a  truculent-looking 
crew  of  "  dagoes,"  i.e.  Greeks,  Italians,  Spaniards,  and 
half-bred  Mexicans.  Soon  after  their  second  visit  we 
weighed  again,  having  received  instructions  to  com- 
mence loading  at  Sant'  Ana,  some  distance  along  the 
same  coast.  "We  had  an  easy  run  thither,  with  a  fair 
wind  all  the  way,  and  were  pleasantly  surprised  to  find 
that,  although  an  open  roadstead  like  Tupilco,  there 
was  quite  a  fleet  of  ships  at  anchor  there.  They  were 
of  all  sizes  and  rigs,  from  rakish-looking  Yankee 
schooners  to    huge   full-rigged    ships,    and   of   several 


46  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

nationalities — British,  American,  and  Norwegian  pre- 
dominating. There  was  a  heavy  landward  swell  on 
when  we  passed  through  them  to  our  anchorage,  and  it 
was  an3^thing  but  cheering  to  see  how  they  rolled  and 
tumbled  about  in  far  more  unpleasant  fashion  than  as 
though  they  had  been  under  way.  In  fact,  some  of  the 
fore  and  afters  had  actually  got  staysails  set,  with  the 
sheets  hauled  flat  aft,  so  as  to  counteract  in  some 
measure  the  dangerous  wallowing  they  were  carrying 
on.  I  watched  one  Baltimore  schooner,  with  tremen- 
dously taunt  spars,  roll  until  she  scooped  up  the  sea  on 
either  side  with  her  bulwarks,  the  decks  being  all  in  a 
lather  with  the  foaming  seas  tearing  across  them,  and 
I  couldn't  help  thinking  what  a  heavenlj'  time  those 
Yanks  must  have  been  having  down  below,  for  there 
were  none  visible  on  deck. 


(     47     ) 


CHAPTER   V. 

THE    LAND    OF    LIBERTY. 

"We  came  to  an  anchor  near  the  middle  of  the  roadstead 
in  seamanlike  fashion,  every  sail  being  furled  before  the 
anchor  was  dropped,  and  the  old  tub  brought-to  as  if 
going  into  dock.  Then,  as  it  was  understood  that  our 
cargo  was  ready  for  us,  preparations  were  immediately 
made  for  its  reception.  A  stout  spar  was  rigged  across 
the  forecastle,  protruding  twenty-five  feet  on  the  star- 
board side,  with  a  big  block  lashed  to  its  end  through 
which  ran  a  five-inch  rope.  A  derrick  was  rigged  over 
the  main-hatch  with  a  double  chain  purchase  attached, 
and  a  powerful  winch  bolted  to  the  deck,  round  which 
the  chain  revolved.  Numbers  of  iron  spikes  (dogs),  with 
rings  in  them,  were  fitted  with  tails  of  rope  about 
three  feet  long,  and  lengths  of  hawser  cut  for  "  mother- 
ropes."  The  rafts  of  mahogany  and  cedar  logs  are 
made  by  driving  a  tailed  "dog"  firmly  into  the  side  of 
each  log  a  foot  or  so  from  the  end.  As  each  one  is  thus 
spiked  it  is  secured  by  a  "rolling  hitch"  of  the  tail  to 
the  "mother  rope"  {caho  maclre  of  the  Spaniards),  until 
as  many  are  collected  as  required.  This  operation  is 
always  performed  in  the  river  just  inside  the  bar,  where 
the    logs    are    sorted    after   their    long    drift  from    the 


48  TEE  LOO    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

interior.  Then  the  raftsmen,  who  are  equipped  with 
capacious  hoats  pulling  six  oars,  and  carrying  about 
three  hundred  fathoms  of  grass  rope,  secure  one  end  of 
their  tow-line  to  the  mother-rope,  and  pull  away  sea- 
ward in  the  direction  of  the  ship,  the  steersman  casting 
out  line  as  they  go.  Arriving  at  the  end  of  their  tether 
they  anchor,  and  all  hands  turn-to  with  a  will  to  haul 
the  raft  up  to  the  boat.  This  operation  is  repeated  as 
often  as  is  necessary  to  cover  the  three  or  four  miles 
between  ship  and  shore,  until  at  last  the  long  line  of 
tumbling  logs  are  brought  alongside  their  destined 
vessel,  and  secured  to  the  big  spar  on  the  forecastle. 
At  whatever  time  they  arrive  all  hands  must  turn  out  to 
receive  them,  and  on  board  the  American  ships  the 
uproar  used  to  be  fearful ;  oaths,  yells,  and  showers  of 
belaying  pins  rattling  against  the  bulwarks,  bearing 
eloquent  testimony  to  the  persuasive  methods  of  dis- 
cipline in  vogue  on  board  of  them.  The  stevedores,  or 
stowers  of  the  timber,  arrived  on  board  shortly  after  we 
anchored ;  like  the  rest  of  the  population,  they  were  a 
mixed  crowd  of  Latins  and  Greeks,  but  all  speaking 
Spanish.  Owing  to  their  presence  we  fared  much 
better  than  we  should  otherwise  have  done,  for  they 
were  fed  by  the  ship,  and  by  no  means  to  be  offered  any 
such  carrion  as  usually  fell  to  our  lot.  Their  pay  was 
high,  five  dollars  a  day;  but  they  certainly  worked  well, 
besides  being  very  skilful.  With  our  first  raft  there 
was  trouble.  Flynn,  the  "blue-nose"  Irishman,  was 
sent  upon  the  uncertain  row  of  logs  alongside  to  sling 
them ;  but  after  several  narrow  escapes  from  drowning 
or  getting  crushed  between  the  rolling  ponderous  masses, 
some  of  them  over  five  tons  in  weight,  he  clambered  on 
deck    again,  and   flatly  refused   to   risk  his  bones  any 


THE  LAND    OF  LIBEBTY.  49 

longer.  Nor,  in  spite  of  the  skipper's  fury,  could  any 
other  man  be  persuaded  to  attempt  so  dangerous  a  task. 
Finally,  the  old  man  turned  to  one  of  the  Greeks  of  the 
stevedore  gang,  and  ordered  him  to  act  as  slingsman. 
"  Oah  yez,  capane,"  said  Antonio,  "  sposa  3"ou  giva  me 
eight  dolla  day."  After  a  little  more  language  the  old 
man  said,  "All  right,  'Tonio,  I'll  give  you  eight  dollars. 
An'  I'll  stop  it  out  of  jowx  pay,  you  skulking  sojer  you  " 
(to  Flynn).  Which  was  mirthful,  seeing  that  eight 
dollars  represented  a  fortnight's  pay  for  our  shipmate. 

However,  Antonio  proved  a  most  expert  raftsman, 
being  almost  amphibious  and  smart  as  any  eel.  But  the 
work  was  exceedingly  severe.  Lifting  such  great  masses 
of  timber  tried  the  old  sticks  terribly,  and  when  she 
rolled  suddenly  to  windward,  tearing  the  log  out  of 
water  with  a  jerk,  you  almost  expected  her  to  fall  apart. 
^^'hen,  at  last,  the  log  showed  above  the  rail,  if  she 
started  her  antics,  all  hands  near  stood  by  for  a  run, 
for  the  log  would  suddenly  slue  inboard,  and  come 
across  the  deck  like  a  gigantic  battering  ram.  The 
whole  process  was  a  series  of  hairbreadth  escapes. 
Down  in  the  hold,  where  the  stevedores  toiled  with 
tackles,  rousing  the  logs  about,  there  were  many 
casualties ;  but  these  dagoes  never  seemed  to  care. 
For  every  hurt  they  had  one  remedy  :  plenty  of  "  cana," 
a  fiery  white  spirit,  fresh  from  the  still.  Poured  into 
a  gash,  or  rubbed  on  a  bruise,  with  half  a  pint  to  drink, 
this  vitriolic  stuff  seemed  to  meet  every  emergency. 

The  enormous  rate  of  pay  prevailing  here  during 
the  height  of  the  season,  had  the  inevitable  effect  of 
causing  frequent  desertions;  so  that  as  much  as  three 
hundred  dollars  was  freely  offered  for  the  run  to  New 
York  or  Europe  for  seamen.     Consequently  a  vigilant 

£ 


50  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

watcii  was  kept  by  the  oUicers  of  ships,  lest  auy  of  the 
crew  should  take  French  leave,  although  getting  ashore 
was  difficult.  We,  however,  had  a  very  large  long-boat, 
for  which  there  was  no  room  on  deck,  and,  contrary  to 
the  usual  practice  it  was  put  overboard,  and  kept  astern 
at  the  end  of  a  small  hawser.  The  temptation  was  too 
much  for  my  friend  Joe,  who,  accompanied  by  the 
Eurasian,  slii)ped  over  the  bows  one  dark  night,  and 
swam  aft  to  the  unwieldly  ark,  unheard  by  the  officer 
on  watch.  Poor  fellow !  he  couldn't  keep  awake  night 
and  day.  At  daybreak,  when  the  skipper  came  on  deck, 
and  looked  over  the  taflVail,  always  his  first  move,  the 
idle  rope  hung  down  disconsolately— the  long-boat  was 
gone  !  Seizing  his  glass  he  mounted  to  the  cross-trees, 
and  scanned  the  horizon,  discovering  the  derelict  far 
out  at  sea.  The  gig  was  lowered  and  manned  by 
Flynn  and  Jem,  the  skipper  himself  taking  the  tiller, 
and  off  they  went  in  pursuit.  It  was  nearly  noon  when 
they  returned,  towing  the  runaway,  and  half  dead  with 
thirst  and  fatigue.  Then  only  did  the  skipper  learn 
that  two  of  his  best  men  were  gone.  In  his  hurry  he 
had  not  stayed  to  inquire,  and  now  his  rage  knew  no 
bounds.  Judge,  then,  how  he  felt  when  he  discovered, 
by  the  aid  of  his  glass,  that  the  deserters  were  no 
further  away  than  our  nearest  neighbour,  an  American 
brig  that  lay  less  than  half  a  mile  away.  Anger  over- 
came his  prudence,  and  he  actually  went  alongside  the 
Yank,  intending  to  go  on  board  and  claim  his  men. 
He  was  received  with  contumely,  the  American  skipper 
refusing  to  allow  him  over  the  rail.  His  state  of  mind 
on  his  return  must  have  been  pitiable ;  but  he  sought 
his  cabin  without  a  word,  and  remained  there  all  the 
rest  of  the  day. 


777^  LAND    OF  LIBERTY.  51 

111  some  way  tlie  news  spread  round  the  tleet,  and  that 
evening  we  were  boarded  by  the  captain  of  the  Paiiuca,  a 
Liverpool  barque,  who  came  to  condole  and  relate  his 
woeful  experiences.  He  said  that  his  men  had  refused 
duty  altogether,  upon  which  he  was  advised  to  take  them 
ashore  to  the  "  Commandaufc,"  who  would  deal  with 
them  in  summary  fashion.  Accordingly  he  took  them, 
finding  the  soi-dlsant  official  to  be  a  stalwart  Greek,  who 
held  the  position  by  virtue  of  his  election  by  his  fellow- 
rascals,  for  law  there  was  none.  El  Seiior  Comman- 
dante,  however,  told  him  to  leave  his  men  with  him, 
and  he  would  soon  bring  them  to  their  bearings.  Very 
reluctantly  he  followed  this  advice,  since  he  had  no 
choice,  and  returned  on  board,  cursing  his  stupidity 
for  ever  taking  them  there.  To  his  joyful  surprise 
they  returned  on  board,  next  morning,  as  meek  in  their 
demeanour  as  if  they  had,  indeed,  been  taught  a  lesson. 
But  two  nights  afterwards  there  was  a  desperate  hubbub 
raised,  during  which  the  rascals  looted  the  cabin,  and, 
getting  into  the  whale-boat  hanging  at  the  davits,  went 
ashore  with  their  plunder.  They  had  strictly  followed 
the  instructions  given  them  by  the  commandant,  who 
made  them  a  handsome  present  in  return  for  the  fine 
boat  they  brought  him.  When  the  half-frantic  captain 
arrived  on  shore,  and  learned  the  truth,  he  was  so 
enraged  that  he  actually  tried  to  take  his  boat  off  the 
beach  where  she  lay,  narrowly  escaping  being  shot 
for  his  pains.  This  tale,  poured  into  our  skipper's 
sympathetic  ears,  somewhat  reconciled  him  to  his  loss, 
since  he  still  retained  his  boat. 

But  one  disaster  succeeded  another.  A  curious 
malady  of  the  feet  attacked  every  one  of  the  crew. 
It  caused  the  legs  and  feet  to  swell  enormously,  and 


52  THE  LOO    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

culminated  iu  a  suppurutiiig  wound  horribly  painful  and 
slow  to  heal.  Then  a  deadl}'  encounter  took  place  between 
the  cooL"  and  You  Sing,  which  was  only  settled  by  send- 
ing the  Chinaman  ashore,  since  the  two  seemed  bent 
upon  murdering  one  another.  Worst  of  all,  when  the 
ship  was  half-full,  the  timber  ceased  to  arrive.  Ship 
after  ship  sailed  away,  until  there  Avere  only  three  of  us 
left ;  and  the  season  of  the  "  Northers  "  being  close  upon 
us,  when  those  destructive  gales  blow  right  home  all 
along  the  coast,  every  one  began  to  look  very  glum. 
The  unfortunate  invalid,  George  Harris,  after  lingering 
longer  than  any  one  could  have  believed  possible,  was 
set  free  from  his  misery  at  last,  to  the  manifest  relief  of 
his  shipmates,  who  were  heartily  tired  of  his  taking  so 
long  to  die.  Sounds  horrible,  doesn't  it  ?  But  it  is  the 
naked  truth.  Under  such  circumstances  as  ours  were, 
the  better  part  of  humanitj'  generally  disappears,  or 
only  shines  in  indiyiduals  who  are  often,  almost  always, 
powerless  to  help. 

Miserable  as  the  time  had  been,  it  was  not  all  lost 
upon  me.  As  far  as  the  hardship  went  it  was  no  worse, 
if  as  bad,  as  I  had  endured  in  the  London  streets  ;  and 
here,  at  any  rate,  it  was  alwaj's  warm.  I  had  learned 
to  chatter  Spanish  fluently,  although  much  of  it  I  would 
gladly  unlearn  if  it  were  possible,  for  I  have  always 
noticed  that,  in  picking  up  a  language  colloquially,  one 
learns  easiest  and  remembers  longest  the  vilenesses. 
And  how  vile  the  Latin  tongues  can  be,  few  Englishmen 
can  realize.  I  did  not  grow  much,  not  being  well- 
enough  nourished  ;  but  I  was  wiry,  hard  as  nails,  and 
almost  as  brown  as  an  Indian,  being  half  naked  from 
want  of  clothes.  At  last,  one  morning,  my  uncle  sent 
for  me.      Although   unconscious  of  any  offence  I  was 


THE  LAND    OF  LIBEBT7.  53 

terribly  frightened,  but  went,  shaking  with  dread,  to 
meet  him.  To  my  utter  amazement  he  spoke  kindly, 
saying  that  the  ship  was  so  old,  and  the  season  so  late, 
that  he  feared  there  was  great  danger  of  her  never 
reaching  home.  Therefore  he  had  decided  to  send  me 
on  board  the  barque  Discoverer,  commanded  by  a  friend 
of  his,  in  which,  as  she  was  a  splendid  vessel,  I  should 
be  far  safer.  She  was  to  sail  the  next  day,  so  I  must  go 
on  board  that  night.  I  only  said,  "  Thank  you,  sir," 
but  volumes  could  not  have  expressed  my  gratitude. 
To  leave  this  awful  den,  to  be  once  more  treated  to  a 
kind  word  occasionally — for,  since  Joe  was  gone  and 
Jem  had  been  driven  ashore  (which  I  have  forgotten  to 
mention),  I  had  no  friends  at  all  on  board  ;  the  prospect 
was  too  delightful  for  contemplation. 

My  wardrobe  being  on  my  back  I  was  spared  the 
labour  of  packing  up.  Farewells  there  were  none  to 
say,  although,  being  naturally  a  tender-hearted  little 
chap,  I  should  have  been  glad  of  a  parting  God-speed. 
But  no  one  said  anything  to  me  as  I  bundled  into  the 
boat  and  was  rowed  alongside  my  new  home.  As  soon 
as  I  climbed  on  board  I  was  met  with  a  very  chorus  of 
welcome.  The  warmth  of  my  reception  amazed  me, 
accustomed  as  I  had  been  for  so  long  to  the  miserable 
state  of  affairs  on  board  my  old  ship.  But  I  soon  over- 
came a  strong  temptation  to  cry  for  joy,  and,  steadily 
choking  down  the  lump  in  my  throat,  set  about  taking 
stock  of  my  new  vessel.  To  my  inexperience  she  seemed 
a  most  noble  ship.  Everything  was  on  a  much  finer 
scale  than  anything  I  had  yet  seen  in  my  brief  travels. 
She  had  been  built  for  the  purpose  of  Arctic  exploration, 
and  consequently  presented  a  somewhat  clumsy  appear- 
ance outside  from  the  doubling  of  the  bow  planks  and 


54  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

stern  bends,  antl  the  diagonal  oaken  sheathing  with 
which  she  was  protected.  Inboard,  though,  she  was 
roomy,  clear,  and  comfortable  as  could  be  imagined, 
while  her  rigging  and  spars  were  all  of  the  very  best, 
and  in  tip-top  condition. 

Quarters  were  assigned  to  me  in  the  comfortable 
cabin  of  the  steward,  whose  helper  I  was  supposed  to 
be,  although,  from  the  first,  I  had  the  free  run  of  the 
ship  fore  and  aft.  Next  morning  we  weighed  with  a 
gentle  favouring  breeze,  homeward  bound.  But  I  soon 
discovered  that  there  was  one  drawback  to  all  this 
comfort — the  captain  was  a  confirmed  drunkard.  While 
the  process  of  getting  under  wa}^  was  going  on,  he  was 
mooning  about  the  deck  with  a  fishy  eye  and  an  aimless 
amble,  getting  in  everybody's  way,  and  causing  much 
confusion  by  giving  ridiculous  orders.  Had  he  confined 
himself  to  that  all  would  have  been  well,  for  the  men 
humoured  him  good-temperedly,  and  took  no  notice  of 
his  rubbish.  But  when  they  had  "  catted  "  the  anchor, 
they  were  obliged  to  leave  it  hanging  while  they  got 
some  sail  on  her,  the  fall  of  the  cat-tackle  being  stretched 
across  the  deck  and  belayed  to  the  opposite  rail,  as  there 
was  no  fo'lk'sle-head,  and  consequently  no  capstan.  All 
hands  being  aft,  the  skipper  maundered  forrard,  to  find 
his  further  progress  stopped  by  this  rope.  Muttering 
unintelligibly,  he  cast  it  off  the  pin  to  which  it  was 
belayed.  The  result  staggered  even  himself,  for  there 
w^as  a  rush  and  a  roar,  a  perfect  blaze  of  sparks,  a 
cloud  of  dust,  and,  with  a  jerk  that  almost  threw  ever}'- 
body  flat,  the  last  link  of  one  hundred  and  twenty 
fathoms  of  cable  brought  the  ship  up  all  standing.  All 
hands  had  flown  forrard  at  the  first  bang,  but  they 
were  powerless  to  do  anything  except  pray  that  the  cable 


THE   LAND    OF   LIBERTY.  0  0 

might  part.  It  was  too  good  for  that,  bearing  the 
terrible  strain  to  which  it  was  subjected  of  bringing  a 
ship  up,  in  twenty  fathoms  of  water,  that  was  going 
nearly  four  knots  an  hour. 

The  mate  got  the  old  man  aft  into  his  cabin  while  the 
fellows  clewed  up  the  canvas  again,  and  then  issued 
the  order  to  man  the  windlass  once  more.  But  this 
the  men  flatly  refused  to  do,  alleging  that  after  their 
forenoon's  work,  it  was  unreasonable  to  expect  such 
a  thing.  The  mate  was  powerless  to  insist,  so  nothing 
further  was  done  till  next  day  but  give  the  sails  the 
loosest  kind  of  a  furl.  At  daybreak  nest  morning  the 
heavy  task  of  getting  the  anchor  was  begun,  the  skipper 
keeping  out  of  sight.  There  was  a  great  deal  of  growl- 
ing and  bad  language ;  but  the  mate  managed  to  get 
hold  of  a  demijohn  of  the  old  man's  w^hisky.  This  he 
dispensed  with  no  niggard  hand,  and  so  the  peace  w'as 
kept ;  but  it  was  late  in  the  day  when  she  was  again 
fairly  under  way  for  home. 

After  that,  everything  went  on  smoothly  enough. 
Although,  as  usual,  the  crew  were  of  several  nationalities, 
they  all  pulled  together  very  well,  nor  did  they  take  the 
advantage  they  might  have  done  of  the  utter  absence  of 
any  shadow  of  discipline  on  board.  The  whole  working 
of  the  ship  devolved  upon  the  mate,  for  the  skipper  was 
always  more  or  less  drunk,  and  the  second  mate  was 
helpless,  having  had  his  right  foot  smashed  by  a  log  of 
mahogany  in  loading.  What  work  was  necessary  during 
the  daytime  was  done  cheerfully  enough,  and  a  general 
air  of  peace  and  contentment  pervaded  the  ship.  For 
one  thing  the  food  was  really  good  and  plentiful,  and 
none  of  the  men  were  of  that  blackguardly  kind  that 
glory  in  taking  every  advantage  of  any  weakness  aft. 


56  TEE   LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

Of  course  the  watch-keeping  at  night  was  bad.  A  big 
London  boy,  who  was  much  disHked  for  his  lazy,  dirty 
habits,  was  made  to  keep  the  look-out  always  in  his 
watch — a  duty  which  he  usually  performed  with  his 
head  between  his  knees.  The  rest  of  the  men  slept 
the  night  through,  seldom  knowing  whose  watch  on 
deck  it  was  ;  so  that  if  sail  required  trimming  all  hands 
generally  turned  out  to  it  after  a  good  deal  of  inviting. 
The  captain  was  supposed  to  keep  the  second  mate's 
watch,  but  he  set  a  shining  example  to  his  crew,  by 
sleeping  it  out  wherever  he  happened  to  drop  when  he 
came  on  deck. 

I  was  very  happy.  Never  since  the  time  my  troubles 
began,  that  is,  at  about  eight  years  old,  had  I  been 
treated  so  well.  Being  very  small  and  fairly  knowing, 
besides  having  a  rather  sweet  treble  voice,  I  was  made 
a  sort  of  plaything — an  universal  pet.  And  in  the  dog- 
watches, when  seated  upon  the  main  hatch  surrounded 
by  the  crew  I  warbled  the  songs  I  knew,  while  not 
another  sound  disturbed  the  balmy  evening,  but  the 
murmur  of  the  caressing  waters  alongside,  and  the 
gentle  rustle  of  a  half-drawing  sail  overhead,  I  felt  as 
if  my  halcyon  days  had  dawned  at  last.  That  fortnight 
is  one  of  the  pleasantest  recollections  of  my  life.  The 
weather  was  delightfully  fine,  and  by  day  the  ship  was 
like  a  huge  aviary,  a  multitude  of  brilliant-hued  little 
birds  being  continually  about  her,  although  we  were 
out  of  sight  of  land.  They  were  of  many  kinds,  but 
all  so  tame  that  they  freely  came  and  went  through 
cabin  and  forecastle,  hunting  for  the  cockroaches  with 
which  she  was  infested.  On  the  upper  yards  a  small 
colony  of  kestrels  kept  vigilant  watch,  descending  likej 
a  flash  upon  any  unwary  birdling  that  dared  to  venture 


THE  LAND    OF  LIBERTY.  57 

far  into  the  open.  The  men  made  many  nocturnal 
excursions  aloft  after  the  "pirates,"  as  they  called  them, 
giving  them  short  shrift  when  they  caught  them.  So 
the  days  drowsed  on  quietly  and  peacefully,  seeming, 
to  my  youthful  ignorance,  as  nearly  perfection  as  they 
could  possibly  be.  Not  but  what  I  felt  an  occasional 
twinge  of  sorrow  at  the  continual  drunkenness  of  the 
captain.  Mixing  with  the  men  forrard  freely  as  I  did, 
their  rough  but  half-pitying  comments  upon  him  and 
his  behaviour  could  not  fail  to  impress  me,  although 
I  often  wondered  how  it  was  that,  being  so  well  aware 
of  the  danger  they  ran  by  reason  of  such  general  neglect, 
they  were  not  themselves  more  watchful,  instead  of 
taking  such  advantage  as  they  did  of  the  captain's 
fault,  to  sleep  all  night. 

At  last,  on  the  fifteenth  day  from  leaving  port,  on 
a  clear  starlit  night  with  a  gentle,  fair  wind  blowing, 
and  all  hands,  including  the  captain — whose  watch  it 
was  —  asleep,  the  vessel  ran  upon  a  coral  reef  and 
became  a  total  wreck.  Having  told  the  story  in  another 
place,  I  cannot  enlarge  upon  the  circumstances  attendant 
upon  her  loss  here ;  it  must  suffice  to  say  that,  after 
many  perils,  all  hands  escaped  safely  to  land  upon  the 
"cay"  or  sandy  islet  which  crowned  the  highest  point 
of  the  reef.  A  fairl}-  large  quantity  of  food  and  water 
was  saved ;  so  that  we  ran  no  risk  of  privation,  even 
had  the  islet  failed  to  furnish  us  with  fish,  fowl,  and 
eggs  in  plenty  as  it  did.  One  circumstance  I  must 
record  in  passing  as  being  well  worthy  of  notice.  As 
soon  as  it  was  evident  that  the  vessel  was  hopelessly 
lost,  the  seamen  forrard,  though  perfectly  well  behaved, 
insisted  that  every  drop  of  intoxicating  liquor  should 
be  thrown  overboard,  and,  in   order  that  it  should  be 


58  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

done  thorougbl}^  themselves  carried  it  out.  As  the 
giant  breakers  destroyed  the  upper  works  of  the  ship, 
much  useful  wreckage  came  ashore,  and  one  calm  day 
a  visit  was  paid  to  her,  w^hich  was  rewarded  by  the 
salvage  of  several  sails  and  a  quantity  of  cordage. 
With  these,  comfortable  tents  were  rigged,  and  I  have 
no  doubt  that,  had  it  been  necessary,  we  could  have  put 
in  several  months  on  that  barren  patch  of  sand  quite 
happily.  Huge  turtle  came  ashore  to  deposit  their 
eggs,  and  were  easily  caught.  Sea-fowl  of  many  kinds, 
principally  boobies  and  frigate  birds,  swarmed  in  thou- 
sands, whose  eggs,  especially  those  of  the  frigate-birds, 
were  delicious  eating,  although,  never  being  pressed 
by  hunger,  we  left  their  rank,  fishy  flesh  severely 
alone.  Fish  of  course  abounded,  while  the  crevices 
of  the  rocks  concealed  great  numbers  of  clams  and 
oysters,  and  at  night  the  lighting  of  our  beacon  fire 
attracted  quite  a  host  of  crabs  from  the  sea,  who  fell 
victims  in  great  numbers  to  their  curiosity.  Hard- 
ships there  were  none,  and  I  would  far  rather  have 
lived  here  for  six  months  than  for  one  week  on  board 
the  old  Arahella. 

Ten  days  passed  gaily  away,  during  which  the  sail- 
maker  and  carpenter  had  made  a  fine  seaworthy  craffc  of 
the  pinnace  in  which  most  of  us  reached  the  shore. 
Fitted  with  new  sails  and  rigging  and  half-declied,  she 
was  tit  for  a  much  longer  voyage  than  was  necessary  to 
reach  the  mainland  of  Campeche,  the  nearest  town  of 
which,  Sisal,  was  barely  a  hundred  miles  distant.  But 
one  morning  as  the  look-out  man  was  ascending  the 
rocky  promontory,  where  a  flag-staff  was  erected  to 
hoist  the  signal  of  distress  we  always  kept  flying  by  day, 
he  saw  a  handsome  barque  lying-to  only  about  two  or 


WE    COILD    HAVE    PIT    IN    SEVERAL   MONTHS    OX    THAT    BARKEN    PATCH 
OF   SAND   QUITE   HAPPILY. 


THE  LAND    OF  LIBERTY.  5  9 

three  miles  away.  The  French  ensign  was  flying  at  her 
peak,  and  a  boat  had  left  her  side  which  was  being 
rapidly  pulled  shorewards.  They  soon  landed,  and  by 
expressive  signs  the  officer  in  charge  gave  us  to  under- 
stand that  he  was  prepared  to  take  us  all  on  board,  but 
that  we  must  make  haste,  as  the  vicinity  was  much  too 
dangerous  to  linger  in  longer  than  was  absolutel}' 
necessary.  Not  one  word  of  each  other's  language  did 
we  understand,  yet  we  found  no  difficulty  in  getting  at 
one  another's  meaning  sufficiently  near  for  all  practical 
purposes.  To  my  amazement,  however,  the  skipper, 
the  mate,  and  four  others,  refused  to  avail  themselves 
of  the  opportunity  to  escape.  They  said  they  did  not 
want  to  go  to  Havana,  where  the  barque  would  land  us, 
preferring  to  sail  in  the  pinnace  to  Sisal  and  take  their 
chance  there.  When  the  Erench  officer  realized  this,  he 
looked  as  if  he  thought  the  small  part}^  refusing  to  come 
with  him  were  mad.  But  after  an  outburst  of  volubilit3% 
quite  wasted  upon  our  misunderstanding,  he  shrugged 
his  shoulders  and  retreated  towards  his  boat,  followed 
by  all  who  were  ready  to  go  with  him.  His  men  had 
made  good  use  of  their  time  by  getting  a  goodly  quantity 
of  birds  and  eggs  collected,  and  now  disposed  themselves, 
with  a  perfect  uproar  of  chattering,  in  as  small  a  compass 
as  they  could,  while  our  fellows  took  the  oars  and  pulled 
away  for  the  barque.  Looking  back,  I  saw  the  little 
group  of  our  late  shipmates  standing  watching  us  from 
the  beach :  a  sight  so  pathetic  that  I  could  not  help 
bursting  into  tears,  quite  forgetting  that  it  was  entirely 
in  accordance  with  their  own  desires  that  they  were 
thus  abandoned. 

We  soon  reached  the  ship,  swarmed  on  board,  and 
swung  the  boat  up  to  the  davits  in  a  twinkling,  wJiile 


60  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

the  officer  who  had  brought  us — the  chief  mate — held  an 
animated  colloquy  with  the  captain  on  the  poop.  From 
the  expressive  gestures  used,  we  had  no  doubt  but  that 
they  were  discussing  the  incomprehensible  resolve  of 
our  captain  and  his  followers.  They  terminated  their 
conversation  by  mutual  shoulder-shruggings,  as  who 
should  say,  "  But  what  would  you,  my  friend  ?  they  are 
English,  whose  ways  are  past  finding  out."  Nothing 
could  be  more  cordial  than  our  reception  by  all  hands. 
The  big  long-boat  was  cleared  out  for  our  sleeping- 
place,  as  the  barque's  fo'lk'sle  accommodation  was  too 
limited  to  admit  any  more  than  at  present  occupied  it ; 
and  a  bountiful  meal  of  fazliole  hlanc,  a  delicious  puree 
of  haricot  beans,  good  biscuit,  and  vin  ordinaire  was 
served  out  to  us. 


(      Gl      ) 


CHAPTER   VI. 


TO    HAVANA    AND    AFTER. 


This  seems  to  be  an  appropriate  place  for  noticing  bow, 
at  less  cost,  tbe  Frencbmen  fared  so  mucb  better  than 
in  any  sailing  ship  I  have  ever  l^een  in.  The  Board 
of  Trade  scale  of  provisions  for  the  Mercantile  Marine 
must  strike  every  landsman  as  being  a  most  absurd 
compilation.  On  four  days  of  the  week  each  man  is 
entitled  to  one  and  a  half  pounds  of  salt  beef, 
including  bone,  accompanied  by  half  a  pound  of  flour, 
except  on  Saturdays,  when  half  a  pint  of  rice  may  be 
given,  or  nothing.  The  other  three  days  each  bring 
one  and  a  quarter  pounds  of  salt  pork  and  one- 
third  of  a  pint  of  split  peas.  Every  day  there  is  an 
allowance  per  capita  of  one  pound  of  bread  (biscuit), 
an  eighth  of  an  ounce  of  tea,  half  an  ounce  of  coffee, 
and  three  quarts  of  water ;  and  each  week  twelve  ounces 
of  sugar  and  half  a  pint  of  vinegar  is  allowed  per  man. 
What  scope  is  there  here  for  any  variety  or  skill  in 
cookery  ?  Even  supposing  that  the  beef  and  pork  were 
in  any  way  comparable  with  the  same  articles  on  shore 
— which  they  cannot  be  in  the  nature  of  things — such 
a  diet  must  soon  become  infernally  monotonous.  But 
the  very  best  ship's  beef  and  pork  is  not  nice;  the  second 


62  THE   LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

best  is  nasty;  and  what  will  pass  an  inspector,  is  often 
utterly  unfit  for  men  to  live  upon  entirely  for  any 
length  of  time,  while  it  would  be  considered  loathsome 
ashore.  And  what  can  be  done  with  half  a  pound  of 
flour  ?  Lacking  aiiythiiKj  else,  except  a  few  hops, 
obviously  the  best  thing  to  do  is  to  make  bread,  which 
is  a  little  more  palatable  than  the  flinty  outrage  on  the 
name  of  food  that  is  called  ship's  biscuit.  What  is 
usually  done  is  to  make  "duff."  This  is  really  boiled 
bread,  with  the  addition  of  some  skimmed  grease  from 
the  coppers  in  which  the  meat  is  boiled.  As  an  act  of 
grace,  but  by  no  means  of  necessity,  a  pannikin  (pint) 
of  molasses  is  doled  out  for  all  bands  on  duff  days,  bat 
the  crew  are  not  allowed  to  forget  that  they  have  no 
claim  to  this  dainty  by  Act  of  Parliament. 

On  pork  days  pea-soup  is  made,  or  "j^ellow  broth," 
as  sailors  call  it.  But  pease  and  water  with  a  flavouring 
of  pork  (not  too  much  lest  the  soup  become  uneatable 
from  salt)  needs  a  stretch  of  courtesy  to  be  called  soup. 
A  little,  very  little,  addition  of  vegetables  would  make 
it  palatable,  but  "  'tis  not  i'  the  bond."  And  even  if  so, 
do  you  think,  reader,  you  would  feel  contented  with  fat 
pork  and  pea-soup  for  dinner  three  times  a  week  for 
four  months  on  end  ?  For  breakfast  and  supper  (tea) 
there  is  biscuit  and  beef,  or  biscuit  and  pork,  washed 
down  with  the  result  of  the  modicum  of  coffee  or  tea. 
And  that  is  all.  For  very  shame's  sake,  a  minority  of 
shipowners  do  provide  a  few  extras :  such  as  butter,  an 
occasional  mess  of  tinned  meat,  and  a  few  preserved 
XDotatoes  and  pickles.  But  these  are  the  exception  and 
not  the  rule.  Moreover,  whenever  these  additional 
helps  are  given,  the  men  are  always  reminded  that  they 
have  no  right  to  them,  that  no  owner  need  give  anything 


TO   HAVANA    AND   AFTER.  63 

more  than   the  bare  pound    and  pint  of  the  Board  of 
Trade  scale. 

Contrast  this  with  our  living  on  board  the  Bordeaux 
barcj[ue  Potosi.  In  the  first  place  the  bread,  which  was  in 
large  puffy  cakes,  became,  under  the  slightest  moisture, 
as  easy  to  eat  and  as  palatable  as  baker's  bread.  This 
alone  was  an  enormous  boon.  Breakfast,  wdiich,  like 
all  other  meals,  was  taken  by  all  hands  at  once,  was 
hardly  a  meal  in  our  sense  of  the  term.  It  was  only 
a  cup  of  coffee  (exceedingly  good),  some  bread,  and 
about  a  gill  of  cognac.  Luncheon  at  noon  consisted 
of  half  a  pound  of  meat,  free  of  bone,  and  some  pre- 
paration of  vegetables,  bread,  and  half  a  pint  of  wine. 
Dinner  at  four  p.m.  was  a  grand  affair.  The  changes 
were  rung  upon  haricot  beans,  lentils,  vermicelli,  maca- 
roni, and  such  legumes  cooked  with  meat  and  flavoured 
so  that  the  smell  was  intense]}'  appetizing.  Bread,  and 
half  pint  of  wine.  And  there  was  abundance,  but  no 
waste.  Yet  I  am  persuaded  that  the  cost  was  much 
less  than  that  of  our  authorized  scale  of  provisions, 
about  which  it  is  difficult  to  speak  with  patience.  It 
will,  I  think,  be  admitted  that  where  men  are  shut  up 
to  a  life  of  such  monotony  as  the  seaman's  calling 
must  necessarily  be,  their  food  ought  at  least  to  have 
some  consideration.  The  meal-hours  form  almost  the 
only  breaks  in  the  day's  sameness,  and  if  the  food  be 
poor  in  quality  and  without  variety,  it  is  bound  to 
engender  bad  feeling  and  a  hatred  of  those  of  whose 
fault  it  is  the  outcome.  This  by  way  of  apology  for 
such  a  lengthy  dwelling  upon  the  subject,  if  any  be 
needed,  though  I  have  always  felt  that  its  importance 
is  great  enough  to  merit  much  more  attention  than  it 
commonly  receives. 


64  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

Wc  had  a  veiy  pleasant  passage.  The  bai(iue  was 
a  wonderfully  handy  vessel,  and  her  equipment  was  so 
good  that  it  excited  the  wondering  admiration  of  all  our 
men.  The  discipline  was  quite  naval  in  its  character, 
and  the  day's  duties  went  on  with  the  regularity  of 
clockwork.  Of  course  we  could  not  understand  the 
language,  and  were,  in  consequence,  unable  to  know 
whether  there  was  the  same  amount  of  grumbling 
commentary  forward,  upon  the  sayings  and  doings  of 
the  officers,  as  is  almost  universal  in  British  ships,  with 
the  exception  of  "  Blue-noses  "  (Canadian  vessels).  But 
it  was  admitted  by  all  of  us  that  the  crew  seemed  well 
content  and  heartil}'  willing,  and  that  she  was  indeed 
a  model  ship.  My  scanty  knowledge  of  Spanish  came 
in  useful,  for  the  captain  spoke  that  language  about  as 
well  as  I  did.  On  his  discovering  this  fact  he  sent  for 
me,  and,  by  dint  of  patience,  succeeded  in  learning  from 
me  such  facts  as  he  wished  to  know,  rewarding  me  with 
many  a  tit-bit  from  his  table,  as  well  as  some  very 
useful  gifts  of  clothing,  which,  as  I  was  almost  naked, 
were  most  acceptable. 

Arriving  at  Havana,  we  were  handed  over  to  the 
British  consul,  leaving  the  friendly  Frenchmen  with 
much  regret  and  three  hearty  cheers,  which  they 
returned  with  interest  a  la  Franca isc.  We  were  no 
sooner  clear  of  her  than  they  began  to  get  under  way 
again,  and,  by  the  time  we  were  on  the  wharf,  she  was 
once  more  heading  for  home.  By  the  orders  of  the 
consul  we  were  marched  up  to  a  "  fonda,"  or  eating 
house,  facing  the  Plaza  de  Armas,  which  we  understood 
was  to  be  our  home  during  our  stay.  A  plentiful  meal 
was  set  before  us,  but  we  did  not  appreciate  it  much, 
every  dish  being  saturated  with  the  flavour  of  garlic. 


TO   HAVANA    AND   AFTER.  65 

But  as  two  bottles  of  ■wine  were  apportioned  to  each 
individual,  the  meal  was  a  merry  one,  all  bands  declar- 
ing that  bread  and  wine  would  suit  them  down  to  the 
ground.  A  bundle  of  cigars  were  distributed  by  a 
benevolent-looking  old  stranger,  who  introduced  himself 
as  the  shipping-master,  and  spoke  excellent  American, 
being,  as  he  informed  us,  a  native  of  New  Orleans. 

After  a  smoke,  we  were  conducted  to  a  large  paved 
room  at  the  back  of  the  premises,  which  was  simply 
furnished  with  a  couple  of  huge  tables  and  sundry 
benches,  and  had  in  one  corner  an  unprotected  well. 
Here  we  were  told  we  must  spread  such  bedding  as 
we  had,  and  make  ourselves  as  comfortable  as  we  could, 
until  our  proper  dormitory  was  vacated  by  the  recruiting 
party  that  at  present  occupied  it.  The  said  party  were 
by  no  means  an  inviting  crowd.  They  swarmed  about 
the  big  bare  chamber  we  were  in,  looking  fit  for  any 
villainy,  and  ostentatiously  displaying  their  vicious - 
looking  bowie-knives.  All  our  fellows  had  been  de- 
prived of  their  sheath-knives  upon  first  coming  ashore, 
under  the  plea  that  the  carrying  of  weapons  was  un- 
lawful, though  we  were  the  only  unarmed  people  I  saw 
in  the  city  during  my  stay.  However,  we  had  no 
choice  of  quarters,  so  we  proceeded  to  spread  such  ragged 
blankets  as  we  possessed  upon  the  flagstones  against 
one  of  the  bare  walls,  and  in  due  time  ranged  ourselves 
thereon.  Owing,  I  suppose,  to  the  unusual  quantity 
of  wine  they  had  drunk,  all  our  men  were  soon  asleep, 
and  when  some  one  took  awa}^  the  smoky  kerosene 
lamp,  the  place  was  pitchy  dark,  except  where  the  silver 
bars  of  moonlight,  streaming  through  the  unglazed  holes 
in  the  walls,  divided  the  blackness  into  rigid  sections. 
I  could  not  sleep.     The  novelty  of  the  situation,  the 

F 


G6  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WATF. 

strange  smells,  and  an  indefinable  fear  of  that  truculent 
crowd  of  armed  men,  kept  all  my  senses  at  highest 
tension.  There  was  no  door,  and,  through  the  opening 
in  the  wall,  dark  shapes  of  men  came  and  went  softly 
on  Heaven  knows  what  errands.  I  had  reached  a 
condition  of  mind  when  I  felt  as  if  I  must  scream  to 
relieve  my  pent-up  feelings,  when  I  saw  some  figures 
bending  over  my  sleeping  shipmates  as  if  searching  for 
something.  By  this  time  my  eyes  had  become  able  to 
distinguish  objects  in  the  surrounding  gloom,  and  I 
found  that  there  were  at  least  twenty  men  in  the  place. 
Terribly  frightened,  and  hardly  knowing  what  I  did, 
I  roused  the  carpenter,  by  whose  side  I  lay,  and  whis- 
pered hoarsely  in  his  ear  what  I  had  seen.  The  word 
was  passed  along,  and  in  a  few  minutes  we  were  all 
afoot  and  straggling  out  into  the  moonlight-flooded 
courtyard.  There  we  stood  like  a  flock  of  startled 
sheep,  irresolute  what  to  do.  But  some  of  the  knife- 
carrying  gentry  emerged  after  us,  and  began  whetting 
their  weapons  on  the  blocks  of  stone  laying  about — 
portions  of  a  ruined  wall.  This  significant  hint  decided 
us,  and  we  passed  out  into  the  silent  street,  feeling  to 
the  full  that  we  were  strangers  in  a  strange  land. 
Lights  of  any  kind  there  were  none,  and  the  intense 
brilliance  of  the  moon  cast  shadows  as  solid  as  does 
the  electric  glare.  A  few  yards  of  uncertain  wandering, 
and  we  were  lost.  There  seemed  to  be  no  one  about, 
and  yet  I  could  have  sworn  I  saw  dark  shapes  gliding 
along  in  the  inky  shadows.  And  presently  I  fell  head- 
long over  something  in  the  road,  my  outstretched  hands 
striking  with  a  splash  into  a  pool  of  mud.  A  cold 
thrill  ran  along  my  spine  when  I  found  I  was  lying 
across  a  corpse,  and  that  the  sticky  paste  on  my  hands 


TO   HAVANA   AND   AFTER.  67 

was  red.  We  quickened  our  steps  after  that,  keeping 
in  the  middle  of  the  streets,  but  as  ignorant  of  our 
direction,  or  our  purpose,  as  if  we  had  been  a  herd  of 
swine  devoid  of  instinct.  At  last,  from  sheer  weariness, 
we  sat  down  upon  the  steps  of  some  large  building,  and 
drooped  our  heads.  As  if  he  had  risen  from  the  ground, 
a  "vigilante"  (watchman)  appeared,  bearing  a  short 
spear,  from  the  upper  third  of  which  dangled  a  lantern. 
"  Vamos,  perros !  "  he  growled,  prodding  those  nearest 
to  him  into  instant  wakefulness.  No  one  needed  a 
translation,  or  a  second  bidding  to  "  Begone,  dogs  !  "  So 
we  tramped  wearily  along,  our  bare  feet  bruised  b_y  the 
littering  stones.  As  often  as  we  dropped  for  a  brief 
rest,  one  of  those  ubiquitous  serenos  moved  us  on  again 
to  the  same  monotonous  epithet  of  contempt.  I  often 
think  what  a  queer-looking  procession  we  must  have 
been.  My  only  garments  were  a  flannel  singlet  and  a 
pair  of  canvas  trousers,  so  stiff  that  they  creaked 
woodenly  as  I  trotted  along.  Cap  or  boots  I  had  none. 
The  rest  were  in  much  the  same  plight,  though  none 
were  quite  so  naked  as  me.  Going  along  a  narrow  lane, 
whereof  I  read  the  title,  "  Aguacalle,"  on  a  building  at 
the  corner,  I  sli^Dped  off'  the  hummocky  sidewalk  into  a 
slough  of  soft  slush  up  to  my  armpits,  and  was  dragged 
out  by  my  next  friend  with  a  new  covering  of  such  evil 
odour  that  I  had  to  keep  a  respectful  distance  from  my 
companions  thenceforth.  Finally  we  emerged  upon 
what  seemed  to  be  a  wide  common  or  piece  of  waste 
ground.  Here  at  last  we  were  permitted  to  squat 
unmolested.  Fear  of  scorpions,  centipedes,  and  snakes, 
kept  me  from  sleep ;  but  all  my  companions  lay  sound 
in  strange  attitudes,  under  the  full  glare  of  the  moon, 
while  I  watched,  wondering  if  the  night  would  ever  end. 


G8  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

At  the  first  glimmer  of  dawn  I  aroused  mj  companions, 
who  were  all  reeking  with  dew,  and  we  made  for  the 
streets  again,  going  as  straight  back  to  our  lodgings  as 
if  we  knew  the  road.  When  we  entered,  the  warriors 
had  all  gone.  No  one  belonging  to  the  establishment 
was  astir,  so  we  cast  ourselves  down  on  our  rags  and 
slept  like  stones  until  roused  at  eight  o'clock  b}^  the 
servants.  Until  eleven  we  dozed  on  the  benches,  or  in 
whatever  corners  we  could  find,  when  a  plentiful  break- 
fast revived  us  in  spite  of  the  garlic. 

After  our  meal  the  vice-consul  paid  us  a  visit.  He 
listened  gravely  to  our  complaints  of  the  accommodation 
we  had  found.  Then  he  invited  us  to  accompany  him 
to  the  consul's  office.  On  our  arrival  all  hands  were 
shown  into  a  large,  bare  room,  while  I  was  called  upstairs 
to  undergo  a  searching  cross-examination  by  the  consul 
as  to  what  clothes  the  men  had  saved,  the  incidents  of 
the  shipwreck,  etc.  I  suppose  he  thought  that  so  young 
a  boy  would  be  more  likely  to  tell  a  true  tale  than  those 
artful  rogues  of  sailors,  as  he  seemed  to  regard  them. 
He  was  not  at  all  kind  or  sympathetic  :  that  was  no  part 
of  his  business,  I  suppose  ;  but  as  he  was  writing  an 
order  upon  a  slop-seller  for  some  clothing  for  us,  a 
handsome  young  lieutenant  from  an  English  man-o'-war 
came  in.  His  eyes  fastened  upon  me  at  once,  and,  after 
a  hurried  question  or  two  of  the  consul,  he  came  to  me 
and  spoke  pitifully,  giving  me  two  dollars  out  of  his 
pocket  as  a  solid  token  of  his  sympathy-.  Then  the 
consul  had  all  hands  in  and  harangued  them,  telling 
them  to  be  sure  and  keep  sober  (which,  as  they  were 
I)enniless,  was  rather  uncalled-for  advice),  and  by  no 
means  to  stray  away  from  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
shipping-ofiice.     They  would  be  sure  to  get  a  ship  in  a 


TO   HAVANA    AND   AFTER.  69 

day  or  two,  he  said.  Dismissing  us  with  a  curt  good- 
day,  he  retired,  while  we  followed  the  vice-consul  to  the 
clothier's.  Here  the  men  received  each  a  rig-out  of 
cheap  garments,  but  I  was  treated  much  better ;  why, 
I  do  not  know.  After  all  the  men  had  been  served  and 
had  returned  to  our  lodging,  I  was  furnished  with  quite 
a  nice  suit  of  clothes,  with  good  underclothing,  patent 
leather  shoes,  and  broad-brimmed  Panama  hat.  A 
brilliant  red  silk  sash  was  given  me  by  the  shopkeeper 
as  a  present,  and,  thus  glorified,  I  felt  quite  transformed. 
With  many  cautions  as  to  my  behaviour,  the  official 
bade  me  good-day,  and  I  was  left  to  my  own  devices. 
And  then  began  one  of  the  strangest  experiences  of  my 
life.  Wherever  I  went,  people  looked  kindly  at  me,  and 
spoke  to  me  as  if  they  were  interested  in  me.  I  entered 
into  shop  after  shop  to  spend  some  of  my  money,  but 
found  it  impossible,  for  the  shopkeepers  insisted  upon 
giving  me  what  I  asked  for  without  payment,  and  often 
added  to  my  store  of  cash  besides.  When  at  last  I 
returned  to  the  fonda,  I  was  loaded  with  cigars,  fruit, 
pastry,  and  all  sorts  of  odds-and-ends,  so  that  my  ship- 
mates were  loud  in  their  welcomes.  By  nightfall  we 
were  all  in  a  very  contented  condition  of  mind,  and, 
when  the  landlord  politely  requested  me  to  inform  my 
friends  that  our  sleeping  apartment  was  prepared,  we 
felt  that  our  comfort  was  complete.  But  our  joy  had 
a  tremendous  set-back  when  we  were  shown  the  said 
bedroom.  It  was  a  long  lean-to  shed  erected  against 
an  ancient  wall  of  rubble  that  had  never  known  contact 
with  a  whitewash  brush.  The  floor  was  of  dried  mud. 
Along  the  centre  of  its  whole  length  ran  an  open  ditch, 
which  carried  in  a  sluggish  stream  all  the  sewage  of  the 
house.     On  either  side  of  this  foul  cloaca  were  ranged 


/(>  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

"  charpoys,"  a  sort  of  exaggerated  camp-stool,  which 
constituted  the  entire  furnishing  of  this  primitive  bed- 
chamber. It  was  well  ventilated,  although  there  were 
no  windows,  for  daylight  was  visible  in  many  places 
through  gaps  in  the  boarding  of  the  outer  wall  and  roof. 
Many  and  vigorous  were  the  comments  passed  upon  the 
filthy  hole,  but  there  was  no  suggestion  of  raising  any 
complaint,  as  all  felt  that  it  would  be  useless,  and,  at 
any  rate,  the  place  was  our  own,  and  we  could  barricade 
the  door.  So  spreading  our  blankets  upon  the  charpo3^s, 
we  turned  in,  and  were  soon  oblivious  of  all  our 
surroundings. 

Next  day,  in  the  course  of  my  wanderings,  I  entered 
the  fine  billiard  room  of  the  Hotel  St.  Isabel  and 
chummed  up  with  the  marker.  I  was  well  acquainted 
with  the  game,  having  learned  how  to  mark  in  one  of 
the  strange  bye-paths  of  my  nomad  life  before  going  to 
sea.  And  this  knowledge  now  came  in  usefully,  for  the 
marker  was  a  one-armed  man  who  was  often  sorely 
bothered  by  the  management  of  his  three  tables, 
especially  when  the  players  were  lively  American  and 
English  skippers.  I  was  made  heartily  welcome,  being 
helpful,  in  a  double  sense,  from  my  knowledge  of  Spanish 
as  well  as  vay  acquaintance  with  the  game.  From  that 
time  forward  the  "  Fonda  del  buen  gusto  "  saw  little  of 
me,  and  that  little  at  uncertain  intervals.  I  had  a 
comfortable  chamber,  the  best  fare  the  hotel  afforded, 
while  as  for  money,  the  customers  supplied  me  so 
liberally  that  my  pockets  were  always  full.  As  I  could 
not  spend  it,  most  of  it  found  its  way  to  my  shipmates, 
for  I  never  came  across  one  without  handing  some  of  it 
over.  The  idea  of  saving  any  never  dawned  upon  me, 
and,  when  all  my  old  shipmates  were  gone  afloat  again. 


TO  IIA\^ANA   AND   AFTER.  H 

I  could  always  manage  to  find  some  English-speaking 
mariners  to  whom  I  was  welcome  company  for  a  ramble 
round  town. 

The  time  tiew  by  on  golden  wings.  All  my  former 
miseries  were  forgotten  in  my  present  luxurious  life, 
and  I  blossomed  into  that  hateful  thing,  an  impudent 
boy  uncontrolled  by  anybody,  and  possessing  all  the 
swagger  and  assurance  of  a  man.  Such  as  I  was,  how- 
ever, I  attracted  the  attention  of  a  gentleman  who  held 
a  most  important  post  under  government  as  a  civil 
engineer.  He  was  a  fairly  constant  visitor  at  the 
hotel  when  in  Havana,  and  our  acquaintance  ripened 
into  a  strong  desire  on  his  part  to  adopt  me,  and  save 
me  from  the  ruin  he  could  see  awaited  me.  His  only 
son,  a  young  man  of  three-and-twenty,  was  his  assistant, 
the  two  being  more  like  brothers  than  parent  and  child. 
Having  made  up  his  mind,  he  fitted  me  out  with  an 
elegant  suit  of  clothes  made  to  his  liking,  and  one  day 
took  me  in  his  carriage  to  see  the  consul  and  arrange 
matters.  To  his  intense  surprise  and  disgust  the  consul 
flatly  refused  to  sanction  the  affair,  telling  him  that  he 
was  responsible  for  my  return  to  England,  and  that,  as 
I  had  admitted  that  my  father  was  alive,  any  inquiry 
after  me,  which  resulted  in  the  discovery  that  I  had 
been  allowed  to  remain  in  Cuba  without  my  parent's 
consent,  would  make  matters  very  unpleasant  for  him. 
All  attempts  on  Mr.  D.'s  part  to  shake  this  decision 
were  fruitless.  The  consul  refused  to  discuss  the  matter 
farther,  and  closed  the  conversation  by  warning  me  that 
I  was  liable  to  severe  punishment  for  absenting  myself 
so  long  from  the  home  (?)  where  he  had  placed  me.  What 
I  felt  I  cannot  describe.  Mr.  D.,  with  a  deeply  dejected 
face,  bade  me  good-bye,  his  duties  calling  him  into  the 


7-1  THE  LOO    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

interior  next  clay.  He  gave  me  twenty-five  dollars  as 
a  parting  present,  and  advised  me  to  get  a  ship  as  soon 
as  possible  for  home.  It  may  readily  be  imagined  that 
I  had  no  hankering  after  the  sea  again.  The  pleasant, 
aimless  life  I  had  been  leading,  the  inordinate  petting 
and  luxury  I  had  grown  accustomed  to,  had  made  me 
look  upon  ship-life  with  unutterable  loathing,  and  I 
secretly  determined  that  if  I  could  avoid  it  I  would  never 
go  to  sea  any  more. 

About  this  time  a  terrible  epidemic  of  yellow  fever 
set  in.  So  great  was  its  virulence,  that  even  the  never- 
ending  warfare  between  the  royalists  and  insurgents 
slowed  down,  and  instead  of  a  ragged  regiment  of 
wastrels  being  despatched  into  the  mountains  about 
twice  a  week,  the  authorities  were  hard  put  to  it  to 
collect  recruits  at  all.  The  great  bell  of  the  cathedral 
tolled  unceasingly.  All  night  long  the  rumble  of  the 
waggons  over  the  uneven  causeways  sounded  like  sub- 
dued thunder,  as  they  passed  from  house  to  house 
collecting  the  corpses  of  the  victims.  The  harbour 
was  crowded  with  vessels  denuded  of  their  crews,  and 
from  every  masthead  flew  the  hateful  yellow  flag.  It 
was  heart-breaking  to  see  and  hear  the  agony  of  the 
sailors  being  taken  ashore  to  hospital.  They  knew  full 
well  that  there  was  hardly  a  glimmer  of  hope  that 
they  would  return.  The  Chinese,  who  acted  as  nurses, 
were  destitute  of  any  feeling  of  humanity,  and  the 
doctors  were  worked  to  death.  The  nuns,  who  gave 
their  lives  nobly,  could  do  little  but  minister  such 
ghostly  comfort  as  they  knew  how;  but  the  net  result 
of  the  hospital  treatment  was,  with  hardly  an  exception, 
death.  Yet,  in  spite  of  the  scourge,  and  general  paralysis 
of  trade  in  consequence,  life,  as  far  as  I  could  see,  went 


TO   HAVANA    AND    AFTER.  73 

on  much  the  same  as  ever.  The  inhabitants  seemed 
determined  to  put  a  brave  air  on,  whatever  their  inner 
feelings  might  be,  and  I  declare  that  I  saw  very  little 
to  frighten  me.  One  can  get  used  to  anything,  espe- 
cially when  one  has  not  learned  to  think.  Several 
weeks  passed  away,  and  I  was  still  free,  though  not 
quite  so  flush  of  money,  for  the  customers  at  the  hotel 
were  necessarily  fewer. 

One  day  I  was  taking  a  stroll  down  by  the  deserted 
wharves,  when  I  noticed  a  peculiar  glow  in  the  sky. 
It  came  from  the  heart  of  a  gigantic  cloud  that 
draped  half  the  heavens,  and  seemed  as  if  it  hid  hell 
behind  it.  Fascinated  by  the  sight,  though  my  heart 
thumped  furiously,  I  waited  on  the  wharf  and  watched 
its  development.  The  cloud  spread  until  the  whole 
dome  was  covered  in  by  it,  and  the  fierce  glare  took 
a  strange  greenish  tinge.  All  around  the  edge  of 
the  darkness  ran  an  incessant  tangle  of  vari-coloured 
lightnings,  and  a  continual  rumble  of  thunder  seemed 
to  make  the  earth  vibrate.  Suddenly  the  storm  burst. 
Jamming  myself  into  a  corner  between  some  posts, 
whence  I  felt  sm'e  no  wind  could  dislodge  me,  I  waited 
and  watched.  For  the  first  few  minutes  I  thought  I 
should  have  died  of  fright.  Torrents  of  water,  like  the 
fall  of  a  sea,  were  lashed  into  foam  as  they  fell,  and  all 
torn  into  gleaming  fragments  by  innumerable  flashes 
flying  in  every  conceivable  direction.  An  overpowering 
smell  like  burning  sulphur  pervaded  all.  As  for  the 
wind,  its  force  must  have  been  frightful,  judging  from  its 
effect  upon  the  shipping  and  houses ;  but  where  I  stood 
only  a  very  strong  gale  could  be  felt,  such  as  no  sea- 
man would  think  extraordinary.  This  lasted  about  an 
hour  (but  I  cannot  say  much  for  time),  and  then  the 


74  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

rain  ceased.  What  a  scene  of  horror  the  bay  presented  ! 
Vessels  of  all  kinds  drifted  aimlessly  about,  wrecking 
each  other,  and  covering  the  boiling  maelstrom  of  the 
harbour  with  their  drhyis.  Overhead  a  louder  roar 
occasionally  made  me  look  up  to  catch  sight  of  a  flying 
roof  like  a  cloud  fragment  fleeting  through  the  murky 
air.  A  large  Yankee  schooner  was  torn  from  her 
anchors,  and  lifted  on  to  a  ledge  beneath  the  More 
Castle,  which  jutted  out  of  the  j)erpeudicular  cliff  about 
a  hundred  feet  above  high-water  mark.  There  she 
remained  upright,  with  her  bottom  stove  in  like 
Columbus's  egg.  Of  all  the  vessels  in  the  harbour, 
the  only  ones  that  survived  without  serious  damage 
were  the  warships,  which,  with  topmasts  housed  and 
cables  veered  out  to  the  clinch,  were  all  steaming  full 
speed  ahead,  and,  even  then,  hardly  easing  the 
tremendous  strain  on  the  latter. 

Taking  advantage  of  a  lull  I  emerged  from  my  corner, 
drenched  to  the  skin,  of  course,  and  so  cramped  from  my 
long  crookedness,  that  at  first  I  could  hardly  feel  my  feet. 
As  hurriedly  as  I  could  I  made  my  way  towards  the  hotel, 
finding  the  roadways  almost  blocked  with  ruins.  The 
hotel  had  escaped  much  damage,  and  I  was  received 
with  open  arms,  soon  forgetting  all  my  fears  in  a  good 
meal  and  cheerful  talk.  In  spite  of  the  havoc  it  had 
made,  the  general  feeling  was  one  of  thankfulness,  it 
being  taken  for  granted  that  the  hurricane  would  be 
found  to  have  swept  away  the  far  more  dreaded  "  Yellow 
Jack."  And  this  was  literally  true,  for  not  a  single 
fresh  case  was  reported  from  that  day  forward.  Business 
revived  with  a  bound,  for  there  was  much  work  to  do 
everywhere,  shipwrights  especially  commanding  almost 
any  wages  they  liked  to  ask.     About  a  week  after  the 


TO   HAVANA    AND   AFTER.  75 

liiirricaue,  I  was  standing  watching  the  transport  of  a 
huge  steam-launch  over  an  isthmus  to  the  dockyard, 
when  I  felt  a  hand  on  my  shoulder.  Turning  sharply, 
I  saw  the  yellow  visage  of  the  vice-consul,  who  was 
accompanied  by  a  man  in  uniform,  to  whom  he  gave  me 
in  charge.  I  was  fairly  caught,  and  without  further 
delay,  in  spite  of  my  vehement  protestations,  I  was  put 
into  a  boat  and  taken  on  hoard  a  large  barque,  the  Sea 
Gem  of  St.  Andrews,  N.S.  The  captain,  a  kindly  looking 
old  gentleman,  heard  my  impudent  remarks  in  amused 
silence,  until  he  thought  I  had  gone  far  enough.  Then 
he  stopped  me  with  a  quiet,  "That'll  do,  my  lad,  you 
don't  want  a  rope's-endiug,  I'm  sure."  I  had  not  lost 
all  sense,  so  I  pocketed  my  grievance  and  crept  sullenly 
forward. 


76  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WATF. 


CHAPTER   VII. 


OFF    TO    SEA    AGAIN. 


The  Sea  Gem  bad  suffered  greatly  from  the  hurricane, 
but,  by  dint  of  strenuous  effort  on  the  part  of  her 
agents,  was  now  fairly  seaworthy  again.  The  ravages  of 
pestilence,  however,  had  left  her  almost  unmanned,  the 
only  survivors  being  the  second  mate,  the  carpenter,  and 
a  couple  of  American  negro  youths.  The  new  captain,  I 
learned  from  the  carpenter — who  had  taken  me  under 
his  protection — had  been  retired  for  some  years,  occupy- 
ing a  fairly  well-paid  post  ashore  in  Havana.  But 
tempted  by  a  lucrative  offer  from  the  agents,  and  greatly 
longing  to  return  home  again,  he  had  accepted  the  post 
of  master  of  the  Sea  Gem.  He  had  succeeded  in  collect- 
ing another  crew  to  take  the  vessel  home ;  but  they  were, 
indeed,  a  motley  crowd.  Three  Austrians,  a  Montenegrin, 
a  Swede,  a  Frenchman  and  two  more  negroes  made  up 
the  complement  forward,  all  of  whom  spoke  a  barbarous 
dialect  of  Spanish  among  themselves,  although  the 
Austrians  also  conversed  indifferently  in  some  Slav 
tongue  as  well  as  in  Italian.  There  was  as  yet  no 
chief  mate,  but  another  American  negro  had  been 
secured  for  cook  and  steward. 

No  cargo  being  procurable,  we  were  to  proceed  in 


OFF   TO    SEA   AGAIN.  11 

ballast  to  Mobile  for  cotton,  and  thence  home.  I  had 
not  yet  lost  hope  of  being  able  to  escape  before  sailing ; 
and  the  carpenter,  who  seemed  to  be  greatly  amused 
by  my  company,  rather  encouraged  me  in  the  idea. 
Strangely  enough,  nobody  seemed  to  trouble  about  me, 
and  I  foolishly  sulked  about  all  day,  doing  nothing  but 
brood  over  the  possibility  of  getting  away.  At  last  a 
chance  presented  itself.  All  the  members  of  the  new 
crew  were  taken  ashore  to  the  consul's  ofiice  to  sign 
articles,  and  I,  of  course,  went  along.  I  had  still  a 
good  deal  of  money,  and,  as  soon  as  I  had  signed,  and 
been  ordered  by  the  captain  to  go  down  to  the  boat  and 
await  his  coming,  I  demurely  obeyed,  and  bolted  in  a 
contrary  direction  as  soon  as  I  had  turned  the  street 
corner.  I  was  free.  True,  I  had  an  uneasy  feeling  that 
at  any  moment  I  might  be  arrested  for  desertion  ;  but  I 
refused  to  entertain  it,  and  hurried  up  town  to  the  Hotel 
St.  Isabel.  Here  I  got  a  shock.  My  old  friend  the 
billiard  marker  was  gone,  and  the  new  man  did  not 
look  upon  me  at  all  favourably.  My  other  acquaintances 
in  the  hotel,  too,  appeared  anxious  to  avoid  me,  as  if 
they  had  been  warned  not  to  give  me  harbourage  there. 
So  I  wandered  forth  disconsolately,  feeling  as  if  the 
place  was  quite  strange  to  me.  In  the  course  of  a  long 
ramble  I  fell  in  with  a  young  American  seaman  who 
was  outward  bound,  i.e.  hard  up,  but  as  full  of  fun  as  if 
he  had  just  been  paid  off.  We  had  a  great  time  together 
for  a  couple  of  days,  getting  as  far  away  as  Matanzas, 
and  using  up  my  stock  of  dollars  at  an  alarming  rate. 
The  third  day  we  were  a  bit  weary  of  skylarking  about, 
and  decided  to  return  to  his  boarding-house  and  have  a 
good  night's  rest.  When  we  arrived  there  it  was  past 
closing  time,  and  the  place  was  all  dark  and  silent.   It  was 


78  THE  LOO    OF  A    SEA-WAJF. 

a  big  corner  building,  springing  straight  from  the  road- 
wa}',  with  flat  walls,  up  to  a  height  of  about  fourteen  feet, 
where  a  balcony  ran  right  round  the  building.  To  rouse 
the  landlord  was  more  than  we  dared  ;  so,  after  much 
scheming,  we  managed  to  find  a  light  cart  under  a  shed, 
which  we  dragged  from  its  place  and  up-ended  under 
the  balcony.  My  chum,  who  was  very  tall,  climbed  up 
the  shafts  and  scaled  the  balcony,  then  lowered  his  long 
sash  to  me.  I  was  speedily  by  his  side,  and  together 
we  sought  and  found  his  room,  which  opened  on  to  the 
balcony  and  was  luckily  unoccupied.  Feeling  secure, 
our  love  of  fun  overcame  weariness,  and  after  a  boisterous 
pillow-fight  we  strolled  out  on  to  the  balcony  again. 
Just  then  a  sererio  loitered  round  the  corner  and  uplifted 
his  voice,  "  Ave  Maria  purissima,  sin  pecado  concebida. 
Doce  hora  ;  noche  serena  !  "  As  the  echoes  died  away, 
he  caught  sight  of  the  cart  standing  where  it  ought  not, 
and  proceeded  to  investigate.  Moved  by  the  same  spirit 
of  mischief,  we  hurried  to  the  chamber,  and  found  a  big 
jug  of  water,  which  Zeke  carefully  poured  upon  the  head 
of  the  muttering  vigilante.  The  eft'ect  was  amazing. 
Having  like  a  lunatic,  he  assaulted  the  great  door  with  feet 
and  spear-butt,  making  an  uproar  that  speedily  aroused 
everybody  within  earshot.  Our  house  hummed  like  a 
hive,  and,  before  many  minutes,  we  heard  the  hurried 
tramp  of  feet  along  the  uncarpeted  corridors,  and  the 
babel  of  many  voices — the  drenched  official's  shrilly  pre- 
dominant. Presently  they  entered  our  room,  to  find  us 
just  awaking  from  a  sound  sleep !  and  blinking  at 
the  lanterns  like  owls.  So  deep  had  been  our  slumbers, 
that  it  was  some  time  before  Zeke  could  explain  how  I 
came  to  be  there  ;  but  the  landlord,  whom  I  recognized 
as  an  old  acquaintance,  was  quite  easily  satisfied  about 


OFF   TO   SEA    AGAIN.  79 

me.  Clearly  we  were  not  the  offenders,  and  the  search- 
party  passed  along,  leaving  us  to  enjoy  a  frantic  jig  at 
the  glorious  disturbance  we  had  aroused.  How  the 
affair  was  settled  I  never  heard,  for  the  next  day  was 
my  last  of  liberty. 

Zeke  went  down  to  the  shipping-office  to  look  for  a 
ship  in  the  morning,  leaving  me  to  my  own  devices. 
After  an  hour's  ramble  up  town,  I  began  to  feel  a 
miserable  reaction,  helped  on  doubtless  by  the  fact  that 
I  had  shared  my  last  dollar  with  my  chum,  and  couldn't 
for  the  life  of  me  see  where  any  more  were  coming  from. 
Presently  I  turned  into  a  cafe  and  called  for  a  cup  of 
coffee  (I  had  not  learned  to  drink  anything  stronger). 
While  I  sat  moodily  sipping  it,  a  drunken,  disreput- 
able-looking man  of  about  fort}*,  roused  himself  from 
one  of  the  tables,  and,  coming  over  to  where  I  was, 
addressed  me  in  broad  Scotch.  With  maudlin  tears  he 
assured  me  that  he  was  the  chief  mate  of  the  Sea  Gem, 
and  that  he  must  get  on  board  that  day,  but  how  he 
did  not  know.  He  dared  not  go  out  for  fear  of  being 
arrested ;  would  I  take  pity  on  him,  and  see  him  on 
board  ?  He  must  have  been  in  a  queer  state  of  mind, 
for  I  was  but  a  boy  of  thirteen  and  small  for  my  age. 
My  pride  was  touched,  and  I  readily  assented,  leading 
him  carefully  down  to  the  wharf,  and  engaging  a  boat 
for  him.  There  I  would  have  left  him,  but  he  held  on 
to  me  like  a  bear,  swearing  he  would  be  lost  and 
undone  without  me,  so  I  had  to  go  off  with  him.  When 
we  got  alongside,  the  second  mate  appeared  at  the 
gangway,  and  lowered  a  bowline,  which  I  slipped  over 
the  helpless  creature's  head  and  under  his  arms.  Thus 
he  was  hauled  on  board  like  a  sack  of  flour.  Then  the 
second  mate  sternly  ordered  me  to  come  up.     I  refused. 


80  TEE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

But  he  quietly  said,  "  Well,  then,  I  must  come  and 
fetch  j^ou."  That  was  sufficient;  I  mounted  the  side, 
and  said  good-bye  to  Havana. 

That  a  rope's-ending  awaited  me,  I  felt  sure  ;  but 
instead  of  that,  the  captain  called  me  into  his  cabin, 
and  gave  me  a  most  fatherly  talking  to.  His  kindness 
made  me  feel  bad,  and  I  promised  him  forthwith  to  be  a 
good  boy,  and  forget  my  vagabond,  independent  way  of 
living  ashore.  Patting  me  on  the  head,  he  dismissed 
me  to  make  my  peace  with  the  second  mate,  who  was 
very  angry  with  me  indeed.  He  received  my  apologies 
in  silence,  and,  although  never  friendly,  I  had  no  cause 
to  complain  of  his  treatment  afterwards.  Of  the  mate 
I  saw  nothing  for  two  or  three  days,  for,  although  we 
left  Havana  the  next  morning,  he  was  in  such  a  woful 
condition,  after  his  long  debauch,  that  he  could  not 
leave  his  berth.  When  he  did  appear  he  seemed  to 
have  forgotten  who  I  was.  His  manner  to  me  was 
extremely  brutal ;  in  fact,  he  was  a  brute  all  round — 
although  a  lively  regard  for  his  own  skin  made  him 
careful  how  he  treated  the  curious  crowd  of  "  dagoes  " 
forward.  They  were  not  at  all  a  bad  lot,  and,  con- 
sidering their  limited  vocabulary,  got  on  fairly  well  with 
the  work  of  the  ship.  The  little  Frenchman,  in  par- 
ticular, was  like  a  bundle  of  watch-springs.  When  he 
once  comprehended  an  order,  it  was  delightful  to  see 
him  execute  it.  But  his  desperate  attempts  to  under- 
stand what  was  said  were  quite  pathetic.  He  spoke  a 
mixture  of  Spanish  and  French,  which  the  others  did 
not  well  understand ;  and  at  last  he  pitched  upon  me  as 
the  only  one  he  could  hold  anything  like  a  conversation 
with,  though  how  we  managed  it  I  have  now  no  idea. 

Everybody  liked  the  old  man.      He  was  so  genial. 


f 


OFF   TO   SEA    AGAIN.  81 

so  simple,  that  it  was  a  pleasure  to  see  iiim.  But  1 
am  afraid  lie  would  have  had  a  bad  time  of  it  with  a 
crew  of  Britishers.  They  appreciate  a  tight  hand,  and 
are  quick  to  take  advantage  of  anything  like  easy-going 
on  the  part  of  their  officers.  This  polyglot  crowd,  how- 
ever, gave  no  trouble  ;  and,  in  spite  of  the  bungling 
stupidity  of  the  mate,  who  never  seemed  to  get  quite 
clear  of  the  after-effects  of  his  big  drunk,  things  went 
on  oiled  wheels. 

We  were  drawing  near  our  port,  when  one  afternoon, 
during  a  fine  wholesail  breeze,  there  was  a  sudden  gloom 
which  rapidly  overspread  the  sky.  Somebody  was  keep- 
ing a  bad  look-out,  doubtless,  for  before  any  sail  could 
be  reduced,  a  squall  of  wind  and  hail  struck  the  vessel, 
throwing  her  on  her  beam  ends.  It  was  so  sudden  that, 
although  all  halliards  and  sheets  were  let  fly  at  once,  not 
a  yard  would  come  down,  the  ship  lying  over  at  too  great 
an  angle.  And  above  the  roaring  of  the  wind,  and  the 
flapping  of  the  flying  canvas,  the  ominous  rumble  of  the 
stone  ballast  rattling  down  to  leeward  could  be  plainly 
heard.  The  deck  was  like  the  wall  of  a  house,  and, 
when  I  saw  the  foaming  sea  rising  up  on  the  leeside  as 
high  as  the  hatches,  I  felt  sure  she  was  turning  bottom 
up.  By  God's  mercy,  we  had  an  old  suit  of  sails  bent, 
which  the  wind  stripped  from  the  yards  and  stays  like 
muslin.  Great  sheets  of  canvas  flitted  away  into  the 
darkness  to  leeward,  while  the  flying  running-gear 
cracked  like  volleys  of  musketry.  Gradually  as  the 
pressure  weakened  she  righted,  regaining  as  even  a  keel 
as  the  shifted  ballast  would  allow,  and  we  were  safe. 
But  there  were  many  pale  faces  besides  mine,  the  old 
captain  especially  looking  terribly  shaken  up. 

Every  stitch  of  canvas  that  had  been  set  when  the 

G 


82  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

squall  burst  was  gone,  and,  as  the  weather  gradually 
settled  into  a  strong  gale,  there  was  a  desperate  night's 
work  ahead.  In  our  position,  with  a  great  deal  of  land 
about,  it  was  imperatively  necessary  to  get  sail  set ;  but 
before  that  could  be  done  it  had  to  be  "bent,"  that  is, 
secured  to  the  yards.  Such  a  task  as  this  tests  the 
capabilities  of  a  crew  very  well.  In  a  man-of-war,  where 
they  can  send  a  man  to  every  roband,  and  a  couple  to 
each  earring,  the  job  is  fairly  easy;  but  in  a  merchant- 
ship  it  means  almost  superhuman  labour,  from  the 
scarcity  of  hands.  I  shall  not  attempt  to  describe 
the  process,  which  bristles  with  technical  details,  that 
cannot  be  grasped  without  a  corresponding  idea  of  the 
conditions  of  work  aloft  in  bad  weather.  Suffice  it  to 
say  that  by  midnight  the  tw^o  lower  topsails,  foresail, 
and  fore-topmast  staysail  were  set,  and  the  hands, 
thoroughly  exhausted,  allowed  to  rest  a  while.  It  was 
my  first  experience  of  bad  weather  at  sea,  and  I  thought 
regretfully  of  the  ease  and  comfort  of  my  late  life.  But 
a  kind  of  philosophic  determination  not  to  cry  over  spilt 
milk,  which  has  attended  me  all  m}-  life,  came  to  my 
rescue,  and  prevented  me  from  being  too  miserable. 

The  iTOor  old  captain,  however,  was  severely  tried. 
Evidently  his  fortitude  and  ability  were  less  than  he 
had  imagined.  He  looked  worn  and  decrepit,  a  settled 
anxiety  gave  him  a  haggard  appearance,  and  all  hands 
pitied  him.  The  fine  weather  had  entirely  forsaken  us, 
nothing  but  fierce  squalls  and  incessantly  shifting  winds 
prevailing  until  we  made  Dog  Island,  at  the  entrance 
to  Mobile  Bay,  under  the  lee  of  which  we  came  to  an 
anchor.  Our  troubles  were  even  then  not  over,  for  a 
gale  sprang  up  almost  immediately,  which  raised  so 
ugly  a  sea  that  the  lively  vessel  almost  plunged  bows 


OFF   TO   SEA  AGAIN.  83 

under.  All  bands  but  the  captain  and  myself  were 
aloft,  furling  the  sails  forward.  I  stood  alone  by  the 
windlass,  ready  to  slack  or  make  fast  such  running- 
gear  as  I  was  called  upon  to  look  after,  when,  with  a 
tremendous  bound,  the  ship  reared  herself  high  in  air 
forrard,  snapping  the  sorely-tried  cable,  the  released 
links  of  which  flew  aft  over  the  windlass-barrel  watli 
a  deafening  crash  and  shower  of  sparks.  Everything 
was  at  once  dropped  aloft,  the  hands  came  sliding  down 
backstays  at  their  best  gait,  and  in  less  than  Ave 
minutes  the  other  anchor  was  let  go.  Cable  was  veered 
away  to  ninety  fathoms,  and  fervent  hopes  expressed 
that  she  would  hold,  for  night  was  almost  upon  us,  and 
our  position  was  dangerous  in  the  extreme.  Happily 
the  wind  hauled  soon  after,  the  sea  became  smooth,  and 
we  rode  in  comparative  comfort  till  noon  next  day, 
when  a  powerful  tug  came  down  and  towed  us  up  among 
the  shipping  to  a  secure  berth. 

A  fine  fleet  of  ships  lay  here,  all  loading  cotton  for 
Liverpool.  Nor,  in  spite  of  the  number  of  vessels,  was 
there  any  delay  in  commencing  our  cargo,  for  the  next 
day,  after  mooring,  a  gang  of  stevedores  came  on  board 
and  set  to  work,  with  characteristic  American  energy, 
to  prepare  the  hold.  Our  captain  left  us  for  Mobile 
City  in  the  same  steamer  that  brought  them,  returning 
with  the  first  load  of  cotton,  but  only  to  bid  us  farewell. 
He  called  us  all  aft,  and,  with  a  quivering  lip,  informed 
us  that  he  did  not  feel  equal  to  taking  the  ship  home. 
Therefore  he  had  determined  to  make  way  for  a  better 
man,  who  would  be  with  us  in  a  few  days.  He  thanked 
all  hands  for  the  way  they  had  treated  him,  and  then, 
shaking  hands  all  round,  got  into  the  boat  and  was 
rowed  away  to  an   upward-bound  steamer,  which  lay 


84  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

alongside  our  nearest  neighbour,  tlie  Marji  J)t(i-hcc. 
A  hearty  cheer  followed  him,  which,  if  it  lacked  the 
simultaneous  volume  peculiar  to  Britons,  was  certainly 
no  less  sincere. 

Then  the  cotton  began  to  come  in.  The  great 
loosel}'  pressed  bales,  weighing  some  six  hundredweight 
each,  were  whipped  on  board  like  magic  by  a  single- 
purchase  steam-winch  on  board  the  steamer,  and 
tumbled  into  the  hold  as  fast  as  they  came.  Below, 
operations  commenced  by  laying  a  single  tier  of  bales, 
side  b}'  side  across  the  ship,  on  the  levelled  ballast, 
leaving  sufficient  space  in  the  middle  of  the  tier  to 
adjust  a  jack-screw.  Then,  to  a  grunting  chantey,  the 
screw  was  extended  to  its  full  length,  and  another  bale 
inserted.  The  process  was  repeated  until  at  last  long 
wooden  levers  were  attached  to  the  iron  bars  of  the 
screw,  and  the  whole  gang  "tallied"  on  until  the  last 
possible  bale  was  squeezed  into  the  tier,  which  was  then 
almost  as  solid  as  a  beam  of  timber  built  into  the  ship. 
It  was  a  point  of  honour  among  stevedores  to  jam  as 
many  bales  into  a  ship  as  she  could  possibly  be  made 
to  contain,  and  restraint  was  often  needed  to  prevent 
the  energetic  workers  from  seriousl}^  injuring  vessels 
by  the  displacement  of  deck-planks,  stanchions,  bulk- 
heads, and  even  beams. 

On  deck  there  was  much  to  do.  A  winter  passage 
across  the  Atlantic  was  before  us.  The  vessel  had  been 
greatly  neglected  in  Havana,  and  a  great  deal  of  sail- 
making  had  to  be  done.  The  mate,  having  obtained 
a  demijohn  of  "bug-juice"  from  one  of  the  cotton- 
steamers,  was  constantly  drunk;  so  all  the  work  de- 
volved upon  the  austere  second  mate,  who  toiled  early 
and   late   to   keep   matters    in   hand.      Owing    to   the 


OFF  TO   SEA    AGAIN.  85 

docility  of  the  crew,  this  was  possible ;  but  he  was 
greatly  relieved  when  one  fine  morning  a  tall,  deter- 
mined-looking man  with  a  sallow  face,  heavy  black 
moustache,  and  nasal  twang  arrived  on  board,  and 
announced  himself  as  "  Captain  Jones,  come  to  take 
command."  Within  half  an  hour  of  his  arrival,  he  had 
been  all  over  the  ship,  had  interviewed  everj'  member 
of  the  crew,  and  had  repeated  at  least  a  dozen  times 
that  he  was  a  "down  Easter,"  and  proposed  to  "run 
this  packet  Yankee  fashion."  With  an  intuition  I  have 
always  had,  I  determined  at  once  that  he  was  carrying 
a  good  cargo  of  liquor ;  and  it  was  as  well  for  the 
besotted  chief  mate  that  this  was  so,  for  he  would  not 
otherwise  have  been  so  friendly  with  him,  I'm  sure. 
His  rounds  completed,  he  retired  to  the  "  saloon," 
catching  sight  of  me  as  he  went,  and  appointing  me 
cabin-boy  on  the  spot.  My  first  duty  was  to  call  the 
mate  into  his  presence.  There  and  then  the  two  of 
them,  seated  vis-a-vis,  began  to  drink  themselves  speech- 
less, while  I  stood  in  attendance,  filling  up  their  glasses 
until  they  could  no  longer  hold  them.  At  last  they 
rolled  oft"  their  seats,  and  lay  across  one  another  in- 
sensible. I  retired  and  informed  the  steward,  who 
lifted  his  hands  despairingly,  exclaiming,  "  Fo'  de  good 
Lawd,  dis  gwine  ter  be  ole  hell  erfioat.  One  on  'em's 
bad  nuff,  but  skipper  en  mate  bofe  :  wa'  we  gwine  ter 
do  /  doan  know."  But  Captain  Jones'  carouse  only 
lasted  a  couple  of  days.  At  the  expiration  of  that  time 
he  "  sobered  up,"  and,  though  looking  very  demoralized, 
went  about  the  ship  like  a  man  that  knew  his  business 
thoroughly  and  meant  doing  it.  Strangely  enough,  he 
allowed  the  mate  to  go  on  as  he  had  been  doing,  never 
interfering  with  him  in  any  way. 


86  THE  LOO    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

When  two-tbirds  of  our  cargo  was  in,  Captain  Jones 
went  up  to  the  city  again.  During  his  absence  the 
stevedores  quitted  work  and  left  us  for  the  Christmas 
holidays.  By  Christmas  Eve  there  was  not  a  steamer 
left  in  the  bay,  and  an  aching  sense  of  discontent  mani- 
fested itself  all  through  the  fleet.  Not  to  speak  of  any 
festive  provision,  there  was  an  actual  dearth  of  fresh 
stores  of  any  kind,  as  no  vessels  had  been  down  for 
several  days.  Boats  came  and  went  from  ship  to  ship 
on  the  same  errand,  seeking  wherewithal  to  make  a 
Christmas  dinner;  but  there  was  no  hope,  all  were 
alike  unprovided.  Gloom  sat  on  every  face  as  the 
prospect  of  a  salt-junk  dinner  on  Christmas  Day  grew 
more  definite,  and  the  language  used  about  the  matter 
was  altogether  improper  and  unseasonable.  But,  just 
as  dusk  was  stealing  in,  a  solitary  schooner  was  sighted 
coming  into  the  bay  from  the  river  under  a  press  of 
canvas,  which,  in  spite  of  the  light  breeze  prevailing, 
drove  her  along  at  a  good  pace.  It  was  quite  dark  by 
the  time  she  reached  us,  and  much  to  our  surprise 
dropped  her  anchor  close  aboard  of  us.  As  soon  as  she 
swung  to  the  wind  the  voice  of  Captain  Jones  hailed  us 
from  her  deck,  crying,  "  Send  a  boat  aboard  !  ""  He  had 
no  sooner  spoken  than  a  perfect  chorus  arose  about  him  : 
the  squealing  of  swine,  the  cackling  of  geese,  and  the 
shrill  war-cry  of  turkeys.  Blessed  discord !  filling  us 
with  visions  of  feasting  too  delightful  for  speech.  There 
was  no  delay  in  getting  the  boat  afloat,  all  hands  being 
full  of  eagerness  to  assist. 

After  receiving  the  skipper,  the  boat  made  a  tour  of 
the  anchorage.  Captain  Jones  standing  up  as  each  ship 
was  passed,  and  shouting  the  good  news  at  the  top  of  his 
voice.     Then  returning  to  the   schooner,  the  boatmen 


OFF   TO    SEA   AGAIN.  87 

laboured  like  Trojans  to  transfer  the  stock  to  our  deck. 
Besides  the  poultry  and  pigs,  there  was  a  huge  pile  of 
fresh  beef,  vegetables,  and  enough  drinkables  to  furnish 
a  carouse  for  the  combined  crews  of  the  whole  fleet.  The 
transhipment  was  barely  completed  when  customers 
began  to  arrive.  Soon  we  were  the  centre  of  a  flotilla  of 
boats,  whose  crews  lined  our  rails  while  the  skippers 
examined  the  provisions.  All  the  lamps  in  the  ship  were 
lighted  and  hung  about,  and,  a  rostrum  being  erected, 
Cai)tain  Jones  began  his  auction.  It  was  the  strangest 
scene  I  ever  witnessed  on  board  ship.  Eoars  of  laughter 
punctuated  every  remark  of  the  auctioneer,  and,  assisted 
by  swiftly  circulating  bottles  of  strong  waters,  the  fun 
raged  furiously  until  long  past  midnight.  Then,  as  the 
last  of  the  visitors  departed  uproariously,  our  excited 
crowd  quickly  calmed  down,  and  quiet  reigned  until  a  late 
hour  on  Christmas  morning.  Of  the  subsequent  feast 
there  is  no  need  to  speak.  Sufficient  to  say  that  it  laid 
over  all  my  experiences  on  board  ship,  for  our  skipper, 
having  cleared  a  goodly  sum  by  his  "  cuteness  "  and 
enterprise,  could  well  afford  to  be  generous ;  and  he  was. 
Four  or  five  days  elapsed  before  our  stevedores 
returned,  and  the  work  of  shipping  cargo  re-commenced. 
But  once  they  got  to  work  again  no  more  time  was  lost. 
A  week  more  saw  every  crevice,  wherein  it  was  possible 
to  jam,  by  the  most  violent  means,  a  bale  of  cotton, 
utilized,  and  even  then  the  skipper  growled  because  the 
time  of  year  made  it  impossible  for  him  to  risk  carrying 
a  few  bales  on  deck.  At  last  the  day  came  on  which 
Captain  Jones  was  to  make  his  last  journey  to  town  to 
clear  the  ship  for  sea.  Before  he  went,  he  called  all 
hands  aft  and  oftered  to  buy  such  clothing  as  thej^ 
required   for    the   homeward   passage.      Being   almost 


88  TTIE  LOO    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

destitute  of  ''dunnage,"  I  ventured  to  put  in  my  plea 
for  a  little,  but  was  grievously  disappointed.  He  would 
not  buy  me  a  rag,  telling  me  that  I  was  not  a  wage- 
earner  but  a  passenger,  and  he  couldn't  afford  to  spend 
money  out  of  his  own  pocket.  Two  days  after  we 
weighed  for  home. 

We  had  fairly  good  weather  as  we  were  swept 
through  the  tortuous  Florida  Straits  by  the  rush  of  the 
Gulf  Stream,  which,  whether  you  will  or  not,  carries 
you  to  the  north-east  at  the  rate  of  a  hundred  miles  in 
twenty-four  hours.  But  we  were  hardly  clear  of  the 
land  before  a  fierce  north-westerly  gale  came  howling 
down  upon  us,  and  my  sufferings  commenced  in  real 
earnest.  For  although  I  was  supposed  to  be  cabin-boy, 
I  had  to  be  on  deck  almost  as  much  as  I  was  in  the 
cabin.  The  mate  seemed  to  take  a  curious  sort  of 
pleasure  in  hazing  me  about,  as  if  he  had  some  personal 
grudge  against  me,  although  I  never  could  understand 
why.  I  was  so  bitterlj'  cold-footed  that  I  stole  a  pair 
of  the  captain's  stockings — I  had  nothing  but  a  pair 
of  patent-leather  shoes — for  foot-wear.  They  (the  stock- 
ings) were  very  old,  and  I  soon  wore  out  the  feet,  which 
I  cut  off  at  the  ankles,  sewed  up  the  openings,  and 
put  them  on  again.  This  ingenuit}'  led  to  disaster,  for 
springing  up  on  the  after-house  one  daj-  by  the  side 
of  the  captain,  who  was  leaning  against  it,  he  saw  his 
initials  on  my  leg.  Investigation  followed,  in  which  I 
pleaded  my  sufferings  from  cold  and  his  refusal  to  get 
me  anything  to  wear  in  Mobile.  My  excuse  was,  of 
course,  unacceptable,  and,  although  he  did  not  beat  me, 
I  was  forbidden  the  cabin  precincts  any  more,  and  com- 
pelled to  go  barefoot  for  the  remainder  of  the  passage. 
I  was  now  in  the  mate's  watch,  and  that  worthy  treated 


OFF    TO    SEA   AGAIN.  89 

me  with  studied  brutality.  I  scarcely  ever  came  within 
reach  of  him  but  I  got  a  kick — he  seldom  struck  me 
with  his  hands. 

As  we  got  farther  to  the  eastward  the  weather  grew 
worse  and  worse.  Gale  succeeded  gale  with  hardly  a 
lull  between,  but  our  vessel  being  in  such  fine  trim,  we 
were  decidedly  better  off  than  as  if  she  had  been  deeji 
in  the  water.  At  last,  however,  we  fell  in  with  a  regular 
hurricane.  Every  stitch  of  canvas  was  taken  in  but  a 
storm-staysail,  made  of  the  heaviest  canvas  woven, 
under  which  we  lay-to  until  she  gave  a  tremendous 
weather-lurch,  and,  rolling  to  leeward  with  a  vicious 
jerk,  the  triangular  patch  of  sail  blew  clean  out  of  its 
bolt-ropes.  From  that  time  we  lay  under  bare  poles 
for  eighteen  hours,  during  much  of  which  I  sat  on  the 
poop  beside  the  tiller,  hauling  back  the  slack  of  the 
wheel-ropes,  more  dead  than  alive  from  the  wet  and 
cold.  Never  having  seen  such  a  storm  at  sea  before, 
I  was  dreadfully  frightened,  until  I  saw  how  uncon- 
cernedly the  sea-birds  hovered  about  us.  Then  I 
reasoned  that  if  those  tiny  things  were  so  secure,  surely 
a  big  ship  like  ours  must  be  much  more  so.  Unsound  as 
my  conclusion  was,  it  comforted  me,  and  I  had  no  more 
fear.  A  few  days  of  light  fine  weather  succeeded  this 
storm,  during  which  everything  was  made  shipshape 
again  aloft.  The  captain  was  a  prime  seaman,  and, 
having  completely  left  off  his  drinking,  managed  every- 
thing in  first-rate  style.  But  he  never  forgave  me  for 
my  theft,  nor  did  he  ever  check  the  mate  for  his 
ill-usage  of  me. 

One  lovely  afternoon,  to  the  surprise  of  all  hands, 
the  order  was  given  to  shorten  sail.  There  was  not  a 
cloud  in  the  sky,  and  a  gentle  south-westerly  breeze 


90  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

was  wafting  us  along  about  four  knots  an  hour.  But, 
as  the  work  of  furling  the  upper  canvas  proceeded,  the 
rumour  went  round  that  the  "  glass,"  as  seamen  always 
term  the  barometer,  was  falling  very  fast.  It  may 
have  been,  but  for  the  twenty-four  hours  we  lay  under 
lower  topsails  and  courses,  not  a  trace  of  change  in  the 
serene  weather  prevailing.  In  the  first  watch  of  the 
next  night  there  stole  over  the  sky  a  gloomy  shade, 
which  deepened  until  the  heavens  were  black.  Not 
black  as  night,  or  black  as  ink,  but  as  if  a  pall  of  black 
velvet  had  been  suspended  over  the  sea,  scarcely  higher 
than  the  mastheads.  The  wind  died  completely  away. 
The  water  was  smooth  as  oil,  and  so  still  that  not  a 
creaking  rope  or  rattling  sheave  disturbed  the  death- 
like silence.  When  the  look-out  man  struck  four  bells, 
the  sound  seemed  to  wound  like  a  sword-cut,  so  sharp 
and  unnatural  was  its  clangour.  This  state  of  things 
lasted  for  about  three  hours.  Then,  gradually,  tiny 
threads  of  light  ran  waveringly  in  every  direction,  as 
if  the  solemn  dome  of  darkness  above  was  cracking, 
and  revealing  an  immense  glow  aljove  it.  The  brilliant 
crevices  widened,  grew  longer  and  more  vivid,  until 
the  whole  firmament  was  aglow  with  Hashes  of  intensest 
light,  while  all  our  spars  were  outlined  in  lambent 
flame.  This  display  lasted  for  about  an  hour,  then 
faded  away ;  the  gloom  disappeared,  and  the  deep  blue 
sky,  studded  with  innumerable  stars  and  unflecked  by 
a  single  cloud,  extended  from  horizon  to  horizon.  This 
beautiful  weather  lasted  for  another  twenty-four  hours, 
and  then  a  gentle  westerly  breeze  sprang  up,  which 
gradually  freshened,  until  we  were  flying  along  home- 
ward at  tremendous  speed,  carrying  every  stitch  of 
canvas  the  ship  could  stagger  under. 


OFF   TO   SEA    AGAIN.  91 

Meanwhile  the  mate's  treatment  of  me  got  worse, 
until  one  night  he  dealt  me  a  savage  kick,  which  hurled 
me  off  the  poop  on  to  the  main  deck,  where  I  lay 
insensible  for  some  time.  Although  no  bones  were 
broken,  I  had  received  such  severe  injury  that  I  was 
unable  to  walk  for  two  days.  During  my  confinement 
I  made  a  desperate  resolution,  and,  as  soon  as  I  resumed 
work  again,  carried  it  into  eli'ect  by  boldly  approaching 
my  merciless  tyrant,  and  telling  him  that  I  was  a 
consul's  passenger,  as  he  very  well  knew.  I  promised 
him  that  if  there  was  any  law  that  could  reach  him,  I 
would  endeavour  to  have  him  punished  for  his  cruelty. 
And  now  I  said,  "You  can  kill  me  if  you  like,  I  don't 
care."  Much  to  my  surprise,  he  weakened  at  once,  and 
for  the  remainder  of  the  voyage  I  was  freed  from  his 
cowardly  attacks. 

The  brave  westerly  wind  that  was  hurling  us  home- 
ward acted  as  usual.  That  is  to  say  it  strengthened 
until,  slowly  and  reluctantly,  sail  was  reduced  to  the 
two  lower  topsails  and  reefed  foresail.  The  ship  was  so 
buoyant  that  the  mountainous  seas  which  surrounded 
her,  and  often  rose  upon  either  side  to  such  a  height  as 
to  make  it  appear  as  if  we  were  racing  through  a  deep 
green  valley,  never  broke  on  board.  But  the  skilful, 
courageous  steering  required  could  only  be  performed 
by  a  few  selected  members  of  the  crew.  Several  men 
had  to  be  suddenly  relieved  of  the  task,  for  their  nerve 
failed  them  at  sight  of  the  mighty  green  walls  soaring- 
above  their  heads,  and  they  were  within  an  ace  of  letting 
her  broach-to.  This  terrible  calamity,  which  has  been 
the  end  of  so  many  fine  ships,  occurs  when  the  vessel 
swings  broadside  on  to  a  great  sea,  which  either  smashes 
her  up  or  rolls  her  over.     In  the  most  favourable  cases 


92  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

much  damage  is  bound  to  follow.  We  saw  one  sorrowful 
instance  of  it  in  a  brig,  which  we  flew  by,  helpless  to 
aid.  She  was  just  sinking,  the  doomed  crew  clinging 
to  the  weather  rigging  as  if  to  put  off  their  inevitable 
fate  for  a  few  fleeting  minutes.  A  huge  sea  rose 
between  us,  hiding  her  from  view,  and  when  we  soared 
on  the  crest  of  the  next  one,  she  was  gone  like  a  foam 
flake. 

Thus  we  ran  until  the  colour  of  the  water  told  us 
we  were  nearing  the  land,  and  soon  we  saw  through 
the  flying  spindrift  the  lonely  outpost  of  the  Fastnet 
rock,  with  its  sturdy  lighthouse,  which  looked  to  me 
like  a  beckoning  finger.  Then  mist-wreaths  and  snow- 
squalls  shut  out  everything  from  view,  except  a  barque, 
which,  apparently  going  to  Liverpool  like  ourselves, 
kept  steadily  on  about  a  mile  in  front  of  us.  So  exactly 
did  we  keep  in  her  wake  that  it  looked  as  if  we  were 
following  her  lead.  The  weather  got  thicker,  but  the 
gale  was  unabated,  and  still  we  flew  before  it.  Sud- 
denly we  were  all  startled  by  the  report  of  a  gun,  and 
out  of  the  fog  on  the  starboard  bow  loomed  the  figure 
of  a  lightship  with  three  ball-crowned  masts.  Our 
leader  had  disappeared.  As  we  passed  the  lightship 
she  fired  another  gun,  and  a  lift  in  the  fog  showed  the 
name  on  her  side — Coningbeg.  Still  we  kept  on,  all 
hands  watching  the  skipper's  troubled  face.  But  a 
sudden  roar  of  "  Breakers  right  ahead  !  "  sent  all  hands 
flying  to  the  braces.  Hard  down  went  the  helm,  and 
round  came  the  ship  on  her  heel,  the  spray  from  the 
heav}'  following  sea  flying  high  over  our  topsail-yards, 
while  the  tender  vessel  heeled  over  until  the  lee  rail 
was  under  water.  Not  a  moment  too  soon,  for  the 
furious  roar  of  the  baffled  breakers  sounded  deafeningly, 


A    HUGE    SEA    KOSE    BETWEEN    V?,    HIDING    HEI!    FROM    VIEW.    AND    WHEN    WE    SOARED 
OX    THE    CREST    OF    THE    NEXT    ONE,    SHE    WAS    GONE    I.IKE    A    FOAM    FI.AKE. 


OFF   TO   SEA    AGAIN.  93 

as  their  fleecy  crests  boiled  and  foaraed  imder  our  lee 
only  half  a  dozen  cables-length  away.  Slowly,  slowly 
we  clawed  off  that  ugly  reef.  For  more  than  an  hour 
the  issue  was  in  gravest  doubt ;  then  hope  began  tu 
revive  as  the  good  ship's  weatherly  qualities  became 
manifest,  and  it  was  plain  to  all  that  we  were  drawing 
clear.  The  breeze  now  began  to  take  off  a  bit,  and 
more  sail  was  made.  Without  any  further  incident,  we 
ran  steadil}'  up-channel  to  Point  Lynas,  where  we  got 
a  pilot  and  a  tug,  which  by  daylight  brought  us  safely 
to  an  anchorage  in  the  Merse}'.  AVe  only  anchored  for 
an  hour  or  two,  waiting  for  high  water,  when  we  were 
coaxed  into  the  Brunswick  Dock,  and  made  solidly  fast 
on  the  side  next  the  street.  As  soon  as  ever  I  could 
do  so  unobserved,  I  slipj)ed  down  a  fender  lanyard  and 
touched  England  with  my  feet,  feeling  a  delightful 
thrill  as  I  did  so.  Why,  I  did  not  know,  but  the  fact 
remains.  A  homeless,  friendless  waif,  with  no  prospects 
before  me,  no  one  to  welcome  me,  I  rejoiced  to  be  in 
England  again,  as  if  I,  too,  felt  it  good  to  l)e  at  home. 


94  777^  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 


CHAPTEE   YIII. 

STRUGGLES    IX    LIVERPOOL    AND    LONDON, 

In  a  veiy  short  time  all  hands  had  left  the  ship  hut 
myself.  A  deerepit  old  man  arrived  from  somewhere 
to  act  as  ■watchman ;  hut  he  took  no  notice  of  me,  and 
I  made  no  advances.  Not  a  word  had  heen  said  to  me 
hy  anyhody  when  they  left  the  ship,  and  I  was  greatly 
in  doubt  as  to  whether  I  was  supposed  to  clear  out  like 
everybody  else.  But  I  was  very  sure  that  I  did  not 
know  where  to  go,  and  so  I  coiled  myself  up  in  my  bunk 
and  went  to  sleep,  as  it  was  getting  late.  When  I  woke 
it  was  morning.  A  heavy  fall  of  snow  had  covered 
everything  during  the  night,  and  the  outlook  was  as 
desolate  and  dreary  as  could  be  imagined.  Making  my 
way  aft,  I  found  the  cabin  all  locked  up ;  so  that,  though 
I  w^as  ravenously  hungry,  there  was  no  chance  of  getting 
anything  to  eat.  The  ancient  watchman  was  fast 
asleep  in  the  galley,  into  which  I  stole  to  warm  my 
freezing  bare  feet.  As  soon  as  I  got  the  chill  out  of 
my  bones  I  returned  to  the  fo'lk'sle,  and  found,  to  my 
delight,  an  old  pair  of  boots  that  one  of  the  chaps  had 
discarded.  "With  these  and  some  rags  I  covered  my 
aching  feet,  and  then,  mounting  on  the  rail,  looked  long 
and  eagerly   shorewards.     Presentl}'  I  made  out,  over 


STRUGGLES   IN  LIVERPOOL   AND   LONDON.      95 

the  window  of  a  small  shop,  the  legend,  "Brunswick 
Dock  Eating-bouse,"  and  noted  with  satisfaction  a 
feather  of  smoke  curling  from  one  of  the  chimneys 
belonging  to  the  building.  Hardly  stopping  to  think, 
I  slipped  down  a  rope  and  ran  across  the  road,  knock- 
ing boldly  at  the  door.  A  ruddy-faced  little  girl  about 
my  own  age  opened  it,  and  said,  hesitatingly,  "What 
d'you  want?"  Trying  to  look  big,  I  said,  "I'm  a 
sailor  belonging  to  that  ship  there,  an'  I  want  to  come 
an'  lodge  here  till  I'm  paid  off."  With  a  doubtful 
glance  at  my  beggarly  outfit,  she  said,  "I'll  go  and 
call  aunty,"  and  ran  off  upstairs.  There  was  a  glorious 
lire  roaring  in  a  great  open  fireplace  at  the  end  of  the 
low  flagged  room,  so,  without  waiting  permission,  I 
entered,  and  seated  myself  on  a  bench  close  to  the 
bright  blaze.  In  a  few  minutes  a  sharp,  business-like 
woman  came  down.  In  response  to  her  keen  questions 
I  told  my  story,  carefully  avoiding  any  reference  to  my 
"  passenger  "  status  on  board.  Apparently  she  was 
satisfied,  for  in  a  very  short  time  I  was  supplied  with 
such  a  breakfast  as  had  long  haunted  my  hungry 
dreams.  Eashers  of  toasted  bacon,  boiled  eggs,  new 
bread-and-butter,  fragrant  coffee — it  was  just  heavenly. 
All  my  miseries  were  forgotten  in  present  joys,  and  I 
ate  and  ate  until,  suddenly  looking  up,  I  saw  the  little 
girl  gazing  at  me  with  awe.  No  wonder  she  was  aston- 
ished. The  way  I  was  demolishing  the  food  was  a 
sight  to  see.  But,  meeting  my  eye,  she  blushed  crimson, 
and  gabbled  something  in  a  strange  tongue  (which  I 
afterwards  learned  was  Welsh)  to  her  aunt,  who  stood 
also  looking  at  me  with  a  good-humoured  smile  on 
her  face. 

Being  warmed  and  fed,  two  satisfactory  experiences 


06  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAJF. 

to  which  I  had  long  been  a  stranger,  I  was  in  no  hurry 
to  leave  such  comfortable  quarters  for  the  bleak  outer 
world.  But  during  the  morning  I  ran  over  to  the  ship, 
and  finding  there  the  cook,  I  learned  that  she  was  to  be 
paid  off  the  next  day.  I  determined  to  present  myself 
with  the  rest  at  the  shipping-office,  although  my  hopes 
of  getting  any  money  were  very  faint.  Still  I  knew 
enough  of  the  world  to  be  certain  that,  without  money,  I 
should  not  be  allowed  to  remain  at  my  present  lodgings. 
So  at  the  appointed  hour  I  marched  up  to  the  Sailors' 
Home,  meeting  with  a  cordial  welcome  from  my  ship- 
mates, especially  the  little  Frenchman.  Better  still,  as 
each  of  them  received  their  money,  they  very  kindly 
gave  me  a  little,  the  total  amount  thus  contributed 
being  twenty-two  shillings.  Then  came  my  turn  to 
appear  at  the  pay  table.  My  heart  beat  fast  with 
apprehension  as  I  faced  Captain  Jones,  my  head  only 
just  appearing  above  the  counter.  His  words  were  gruff 
and  his  manner  unkind,  but  I  believe  he  was  moved 
with  pity  for  my  forlorn  jDOsition,  for  he  actually  gave 
me  two  pounds  ten  shillings,  pay  at  the  rate  of  one 
pound  a  month.  I  was  so  glad  that  I  knew  not  what  to 
say,  but  I  hastily  retreated  lest  he  should  change  his 
mind  and  take  the  money  away  again.  As  fast  as  my 
legs  would  carry  me,  I  ran  back  to  the  boarding-house 
to  exhibit  my  wealth  to  the  landlady.  I  had  never  had 
so  much  money  of  my  own  before,  and  was  propor- 
tionately elated,  the  thought  of  how  much  I  needed  it 
never  entering  my  head.  The  landlady  immediately 
suggested  that  I  should  treat  her  and  her  crony  from 
next  door,  who  was  in  conversation  with  her,  at  which 
proposition  I  felt  quite  a  man,  and  inquired  loftily  what 
the  ladies  would  take.     A  little  drop  of  "  Donovans  " 


STRUGGLES  IN  LIVERPOOL   AND   LONDON.      97 

appeared  to  be  the  favourite  liquor,  a  totally  unknown 
beverage  to  me,  but  I  should  have  agreed  had  it  been 
champagne.  The  little  niece  was  dispatched  for  it,  as 
well  as  a  couple  of  bottles  of  ginger-beer  for  us,  who 
were  too  young  and  wise  to  thirst  for  "Donovans" — 
which  I  knew,  as  soon  as  it  arrived,  to  be  rum. 

To  do  my  landlady  justice,  she  interested  herself  in 
getting  me  some  decent  clothing,  and  promised  to  keep 
me  on  what  remained  of  my  money  until  I  got  another 
ship  or  some  employment  ashore.  But  getting  a  ship, 
I  found,  was  an  impossible  task.  My  diminutive  size 
and  weakly  appearance  obtained  for  me  only  derision 
when  I  ventured  to  ask  for  a  berth  on  what  I  considered 
likely-looking  craft,  and  it  soon  aj^peared  hopeless  to 
look  in  that  direction  any  more.  Help  came  from  an 
unexpected  quarter.  Next  door  to  my  lodging-place  was 
the  workshop  of  a  figure-head  carver,  who  was  a  young, 
energetic  man  of  great  skill,  and  very  intimate  with  my 
landlady.  He  was  kind  enough  to  employ  me  in  his 
business,  where  I  soon  became  useful  in  sharpening 
tools  and  roughing-out  work  for  him  and  his  brother  to 
finish.  He  paid  me  sufficient  for  my  board  and  lodging, 
which,  considering  that  he  was  teaching  me  his  trade, 
was  very  generous.  Here  I  was  quite  happj^  for  my 
new  master  was  kindness  itself;  and  I  believe  I  was 
really  quick  to  profit  by  all  I  was  taught,  so  as  to  be 
worth  my  pay.  But  my  evil  genius  pursued  me  still. 
His  brother  became  jealous  of  the  attentions  I  received, 
and,  after  I  had  been  with  them  a  couple  of  months, 
quarrels  between  them  on  my  account  were  of  almost 
daily  occurrence.  This  unsatisfactory  state  of  things 
culminated  in  my  getting  knocked  senseless  one  morning 
by  my  enemy  during  his  l)rother's  absence  at  a  job. 

II 


98  THE  LOO    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

When  Mr.  E.  returned  he  was  alarmed  at  my  appear- 
ance, for  I  had  an  ugly  cut  on  the  head  which  made  me 
look  quite  ghastly.  A  tremendous  row  followed,  the 
upshot  of  which  was  that  ]\rr.  E.  sorrowfully  informed 
me  that  he  was  ohliged  to  send  me  away  before  serious 
harm  was  done.  lie  advised  me  to  return  to  London, 
where  I  was  better  known  (?),  and  gave  me  ten  shillings 
to  pay  my  fare  thither.  I  took  his  advice  forthwith, 
finding  no  difficulty  in  getting  a  half  ticket  to  Euston, 
where  I  arrived  with  two  shillings  and  sixpence  in  my 
pocket. 

The  well-known  streets  looked  strange  to  me  after 
my  long  absence.  In  fact,  I  felt  more  in  the  way  than 
ever.  I  knew  nobody  that  could  or  would  shelter  me, 
and  I  had  got  out  of  the  way  of  street  life.  Husbanding 
my  scanty  store  of  coppers  as  well  as  I  could,  I  haunted 
Thames  Street  in  the  hope  that  I  might  pick  up  a 
coaster  at  the  King's  Head,  where,  in  those  days, 
skippers  of  small  craft  used  to  get  most  of  their  crews. 
There  is  a  cook-shop  with  a  tank  of  pea-soup  in  the 
window,  where  for  a  penny  I  could  always  get  a  belly- 
full  of  the  thick,  comforting  stuft' — the  best  value  for 
money  in  the  grub  line  that  I  knew  of,  and  I  was  no 
bad  judge.  It — the  tank — used  to  be  cleaned  out  every 
three  days,  and  a  fresh  jorum  of  soup  made.  On  the 
first  day  it  was  comparatively  thin ;  on  the  second, 
being  filled  up  without  removing  the  solid  matter  settled 
at  the  bottom,  it  was  better ;  but  on  the  third  day  you 
could  almost  cut  it — a  spoon  would  stand  upright  in  it. 
And,  anxious  to  clear  it  out,  they  gave  bigger  penn'orths. 
I  often  used  to  go  without  on  the  second  day,  so  that  I 
could  have  two  separate  portions  on  the  third ;  after 
which  I  felt  as  bloated  as  an  alderman  after  a  civic  feast. 


STRUGGLES  IN  LIVERPOOL   AND    LONDON.      99 

But  the  pence  failed,  and  I  picked  up  very  few  more ;  so 
that,  though  I  slept  in  anj^  hole  or  corner  I  could  find,  to 
avoid  the  expense  of  lodgings,  the  time  soon  came  when 
I  was  face  to  face  with  starvation  again.  Then  a  bright 
idea  occurred  to  me,  so  obvious  that  I  wondered  why 
it  hadn't  struck  me  before.  I  had  my  discharge  from 
the  Sea  Gem.  I  would  seek  a  kindly  boarding-master, 
and  ask  him  to  keep  me  till  I  got  a  ship,  paying  himself 
out  of  my  advance.  I  knew  better  than  to  go  to  the 
so-called  "  Sailors'  Home."  They  don't  take  in  hard- 
up  seamen  there.  It  is  only  a  home  for  those  who  can 
pay  down  for  their  accommodation. 

With  my  fortunate  idea  burning  in  my  mind,  I 
hastened  down  the  West  India  Dock  Eoad,  attacking 
the  first  house  I  saw  with  "  boarding-house  for  seamen" 
painted  up  over  it.  The  proprietor,  an  old  bo'sun, 
grumbled  at  my  request  a  good  deal,  but  he  took  me 
in,  God  bless  him  !  More  than  that,  he  got  me  a  ship 
three  days  after  by  means  of  his  influence  that  way, 
and  once  again  I  was  freed  from  the  misery  of  being 
masterless.  The  vessel  in  which  I  was  to  sail  was  a 
splendid  barque,  reminding  me  strongly  of  the  luckless 
Discoverer,  and  about  the  same  size.  I  shall  call  her 
the  Bonanza,  for  reasons  of  my  own,  though  that  was 
not  her  name.  She  was  bound  to  a  port  in  Jamaica, 
with  a  general  cargo  for  new  o^Tiers,  and  with  a  new 
captain  and  officers.  When  we  came  up  to  sign  on  at 
"  Green's  Home,"  I  found,  to  my  delight,  that  I  was  to 
have  twenty  shillings  a  month.  Like  all  the  rest,  I 
received  a  month's  advance,  out  of  which  my  boarding- 
master  paid  himself,  and  provided  me  with  a  "  donkey's 
breakfast  "  (straw-bed),  hook-pot,  pannikin,  and  plate  ; 
a  knife,  and  a  suit  of  oilskins.     So  he  didn't  rob  me  to 


100  THE   LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

any  great  extent.  He  also  gave  me  a  few  odds  and 
ends  of  clothing,  which  had  been  left  by  boarders,  out 
of  which,  being  a  fair  hand  with  my  needle,  I  managed 
to  botch  up  enough  garments  to  change.  I  bade  him 
good-bye  with  hearty  feelings  of  gratitude,  which  he 
fully  deserved,  and  took  my  departure  on  board  my 
ship. 


(      101      ) 


CHAPTER  IX. 


BOUND    FOR   JAMAICA. 


All  hands  had  been  ordered  on  board  in  the  afternoon, 
the  tide  serving  about  five  p.m.,  but  from  some  unex- 
plained cause  we  did  not  sail  at  the  time  appointed. 
This  delay  led  to  complications,  for  although  the  crew 
had,  for  a  wonder,  come  on  board  fairly  sober,  they  all 
rejoiced  at  the  opportunity  afforded  them  of  a  last 
carouse.  By  some  mysterious  means  some  money  was 
obtained ;  all  hands  departed  for  the  purlieus  of 
Shadwell,  with  the  result  that  at  ten  o'clock  the  officers 
were  scouring  the  slums  hunting  for  them.  It  was  a 
hopeless  task,  as  the  event  proved,  for  by  midnight 
only  two  had  been  found,  and  they  were  both  helplessly 
drunk.  They  were  dragged  on  board  like  bundles  of 
rags,  and  hoisted  into  their  bunks,  where  they  remained 
in  peace.  That  tide  being  lost,  the  officers  had  a  few 
hours'  rest,  turning  out  again  about  four  a.m.  to  renew 
the  search.  Meanwhile  the  vessel  was  shifted  into  the 
Shadwell  Basin,  ready  to  start  the  moment  her  crew 
were  on  board.  The  morning  broke  cheerlessly  enough 
with  a  light  fall  of  snow,  gradually  increasing  to  a 
blinding  mist  of  white,  through  which  occasionally  a 
little  party  came  dragging  some  oblivious  mariner,  who 
had  spent  his  respite  in  filling  himself  with  whatever 


102  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF, 

fire-water  he  could  obtain.  At  last,  weary  of  waiting, 
the  skipper  determined  to  go  on,  although  he  was  still 
two  men  short.  Accordingly  the  warps  were  cast  off, 
the  tug  backed  in  and  took  hold  of  us,  and  away  we 
went  down  the  river  through  the  thick  veil  of  snow  that 
made  the  "  mud  pilot's "  job  both  difficult  and  dan- 
gerous. There  was  another  boy  beside  me,  a  burly 
fellow  of  sixteen,  who  very  soon  made  it  clear  to  me 
that  I  was  not  going  to  lead  a  pleasant  time  with  him. 
He  had  come  from  the  Warsjnte,  and  knew  nothing  of 
the  ways  of  merchant-ships,  which  gave  me  a  little 
advantage  over  him  in  one  way.  But  he  was  well 
provided  with  plenty  of  warm  clothing,  by  the  bounty  of 
the  Marine  Society,  while  I  was  so  thinly  clad  that  the 
piercing  cold  benumbed  all  my  faculties,  and  I  crawled 
about  like  a  snail,  making  a  very  bad  impression  upon 
the  officers.  Our  arrival  at  Gravesend  came  as  a 
blessed  relief,  for  there  was  a  good  hot  meal  of  fresh 
food  ready  as  soon  as  the  anchor  was  down.  And  as 
all  the  seamen  were  in  a  dee^},  drunken  slumber.  Bill, 
my  colleague,  and  myself  had  a  mighty  feed  all  to 
ourselves ;  after  which  we  turned  in,  and  slept  un- 
molested till  supper-time.  The  skipper  had  gone  ashore 
to  get  a  couple  of  men  in  place  of  the  defaulters,  and 
did  not  return  till  after  dark.  He  brought  two  sober 
seamen  with  him,  who  looked  as  though  they  had  been 
outward-bound  for  a  very  long  time.  Their  cheeks 
were  quite  hollow  with  hunger,  and  they  had  hardly 
more  clothing  than  they  stood  in.  Yet  they  were  both 
able  men,  proving  indeed  the  best  seamen  on  board. 
After  they  had  eaten  a  good  meal,  the}'  were  set  to 
keep  anchor-watch  turn  about,  until  at  midnight  all 
hands  were  called  to  man  the  windlass. 


BOUND   FOR   JAMAICA.  103 

I  wish  it  was  possible  to  give  my  readers  an  idea  of 
the  misery  involved  in  this  operation  under  such  con- 
ditions. First  of  all,  the  officers  were  obliged  to  drag 
the  soddenQcl  sleepers  from  their  lairs ;  then  to  shake, 
if  possible,  some  gleam  of  sense  into  them,  some  faint 
idea  of  what  was  required  of  them.  After  nearly  an 
hour's  struggle,  the  miserable  men  were  at  last 
mustered  on  the  fo'lk'sle  head  at  the  windlass  levers, 
where,  exposed  to  the  full  fury  of  the  bitter  wind,  they 
cowered  more  like  sheep  than  men.  Their  feelings,  as 
the  drink  died  out  of  them,  and  the  cold  searched  their 
very  vitals,  must  have  been  horrible.  Occasionally  one 
of  them  would  slip  down  gently  from  the  fo'lk'sle  and 
disappear,  only  to  be  hunted  up  again  by  the  vigorous 
boatswain,  who  kept  a  watchful  eye  upon  any  would-be 
skulkers.  More  by  dint  of  the  bo'sun's  energy,  I 
believe,  than  any  vitality  in  the  limp  crew,  the  anchor 
was  at  last  lifted,  the  hawser  passed  to  the  hovering 
tug,  and  away  we  glided  ghost-like  down-stream.  Ben, 
the  big  boy,  and  myself  were  pretty  well  fagged  out 
with  hauling  back  the  big  links  of  cable,  and  stowing 
them  in  neat  fakes  abaft  the  windlass  ;  but  the  bo'sun 
believed  in  keeping  boys  on  the  go,  so  we  got  no  time  to 
think  about  being  tired.  Luckily  for  us  the  wind  was 
dead  on  end,  so  that  it  was  useless  making  sail.  All 
hands  were  kept  busily  employed  clearing  up  the  decks, 
getting  the  running-gear  into  its  proper  places,  and 
generally  preparing  the  ship  for  independent  travelling. 
By  daylight  the  weather  grew  better,  the  wind  veered 
to  the  eastward  a  little,  and  the  fore-and-aft  sails  were 
set.  So  we  drew  slowly  round  to  the  North  Foreland, 
where  the  tug  slipped  our  hawser  ;  all  sail  was  set,  and 
we  were  fairly  started  on  our  voyage.     As  I  got  a  little 


104  THE  LOO    OF  A    SEA- WAIF 

warmth  into  my  stiffened  limbs,  I  won  back  some  of  the 
good  opinion  I  had  forfeited  by  my  clumsy,  spiritless 
movements  of  the  previous  day.  Being  sent  aloft  to 
loose  some  of  the  square  sails,  I  was  cheered  by  hearing 
the  elderly  mate  remark  quietly,  "  That's  a  smart  little 
boy,"  and  I  must  confess  I  was  not  displeased  to  note 
that  Ben  only  succeeded  in  drawing  down  maledic- 
tions on  his  head  for  his  clumsiness  and  general 
inability  to  do  what  was  required  of  him.  There  was  a 
vengeful  gleam  in  his  eye,  as  he  saw  how  inferior  he  was 
in  smartness  to  myself,  which  boded  no  good  to  me,  and 
from  the  first  day  out  he  never  lost  an  opportunity  of 
doing  me  an  ill  turn. 

The  captain  was  a  fine,  manly  specimen  of  a  seaman, 
with  glowing  red  hair  and  beard,  and  a  voice  of  thunder. 
Fiery  tempered,  yet  easily  pacified,  he  was  also  one  of 
the  most  energetic  of  men,  and  I  never  saw  a  skipper 
better  liked  by  his  crew.  The  mate  was  a  middle-aged 
man,  at  least  ten  years  the  captain's  senior,  rather 
slow  and  sedate,  but  a  thorough  seaman  and  navigator. 
The  bo'sun,  who  was  acting  second  mate,  was  an  old 
shipmate  of  the  skipper's,  and  quite  his  equal  in  energy. 
He  was  one  of  that  fast-decaying  type  of  seamen,  a 
Blackwall  rigger,  to  whom  every  detail  of  sailoriziug 
was  as  familiar  as  eating  his  breakfast.  Besides  this, 
he  was  a  born  leader  of  men,  who  would  enforce  his  will 
regardless  of  consequences.  No  man  durst  give  him 
"  slack  lip  "  on  pain  of  being  instantly  knocked  endways  ; 
a  feat  of  which,  by  reason  of  his  size  and  strength,  he 
was  fully  capable.  As  a  result  we  were  a  well-disciplined 
crowd,  from  whom  no  growling  was  heard  whatever  the 
work  imposed.  There  were  eight  A.B.'s,  out  of  whom 
only  three  were  foreigners ;  but  not  one  of  them  calls 


BOUND   FOR   JAMAICA.  105 

for  auy  special  description  from  me.  They  all  bad  the 
bad  old  idea  that  boys  were  born  slaves,  who  must  do 
all  the  dirty  work  on  deck,  and  when  below  be  content 
with  their  leavings,  wait  upon  them  hand  and  foot,  and 
take  uncomplainingly  all  the  ill-treatment  it  was  their 
prerogative  to  bestow.  Being  at  the  bottom  of  the 
scale,  I  had  a  wretched  life.  For  I  was  no  match  for 
Ben,  who  unfailingl}^  passed  on  his  share  of  blows  to 
me,  so  that  I  was  seldoDi  without  some  visible  marks 
of  ill-usage.  But  the  food  was  certainly  above  the 
average.  The  skipper  had  the  provisioning  of  the  ship, 
and,  being  a  just  man,  he  did  not  do  as  so  many  would 
have  done  under  the  same  circumstances  :  starve  the 
men  to  fatten  his  own  pocket.  What  with  the  decent 
meals,  and  the  masterfulness  of  the  bo'sun,  she  was  a 
contented  ship,  and  more  work  was  done  in  a  day  on 
board  than  I  have  ever  seen  before  or  since.  As  usual 
on  this  passage,  fine  weather  prevailed,  the  wind  being 
so  steady  that  for  days  together  we  never  touched  a 
brace.  This  was  taken  advantage  of  by  the  skipper  to 
practically  refit  the  ship,  all  hands  being  kept  at  work 
all  day  long  splicing,  turning-in  blocks,  serving  shrouds, 
fitting  new  running  -  gear,  and  doing  rigger's  work 
generally.  At  night  they  all  slept,  with  the  exception 
of  the  helmsman,  the  look-out  man,  the  officer  of  the 
watch  and  a  boy,  who  had  to  keep  near  the  officer  to 
carry  his  commands  to  the  sleepers  should  the  need 
arise.  Eeally  I  was  kept  so  constantly  at  work  that,  for 
all  I  saw  of  the  sea  and  its  marvels,  I  might  as  well 
have  been  ashore.  Except  at  night,  and  then  I  was 
always  half  asleep  through  getting  so  little  legitimate 
opportunity  for  rest. 

Twenty-eight  days  flew  rapidly  past  without  a  single 


106  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

incident  worth  noting,  the  same  bhie  sky  overhead,  and 
steady  breeze  astern,  until  one  morning  the  beautiful 
shores  of  Jamaica  loomed  up  ahead.  A  few  hours  later 
we  sailed  in  between  the  points  of  a  sheltering  coral 
reef  to  an  anchorage  in  the  pretty  little  harbour  of 
Falmouth,  pompously  announcing  our  arrival  by  the 
firing  of  a  four-pounder  gun  as  the  anchor  was  dropped. 
While  we  were  furling  sails  and  clearing  up  the  decks, 
visitors  were  arriving  from  the  four  vessels  in  harbour 
as  well  as  from  the  shore,  so  that  by  the  time  work  was 
over  our  decks  were  thronged.  The  skipper  seemed  a 
prime  favourite  here,  judging  by  the  number  of  people 
who  came  to  see  him  and  congratulate  him  upon  his 
new  command — the  largest  vessel  that  had  yet  entered 
the  little  port.  There  were  high  times  forrard  as  well 
as  aft,  for  canoe-loads  of  good  things  were  brought,  and 
all  hands  invested  recklessly  on  credit,  forgetting  that 
as  yet  they  had  no  money  owing  to  them  by  the  ship. 
Not  only  eatables  but  sundry  bottles  of  new  rum  made 
their  appearance,  which  potent  fluid  soon  made  things 
exceedingly  lively  in  the  fo'lk'sle.  Matters  culminated, 
of  course,  in  a  free  fight,  which  so  alarmed  me  that 
I  crept  into  a  corner  under  the  heel  of  the  bowsprit, 
out  of  the  way  of  the  revellers.  There  I  went  to  sleep 
so  soundly  that  it  was  morning  when  I  again  emerged 
at  the  hoarse  cry  of  the  boatswain  calling  us  to 
"turn  to." 

The  darkies  here  were  even  merrier  than  my  old 
friends  of  Demerara.  Such  a  jovial,  musical  lot  I  never 
saw.  Living  from  hand  to  mouth  on  the  coarsest  food, 
and  with  the  oddest  assortment  of  rags  for  clothing 
possible  to  be  imagined,  they  really  seemed  to  be  per- 
fectly happy.     The  feeblest  joke  was  sufficient  to  send 


BOUND   FOR   JAMAICA.  107 

them  into  convulsions  of  laughter,  and  the  gift  of  an  old 
shirt  or  pair  of  pants  would  keep  them  on  the  hroad 
grin  for  a  couple  of  days.  My  life  was  so  consistently 
miserable  from  harsh  treatment,  that  I  continually 
envied  them  their  careless  existence,  wondering  all  the 
time  how  they  managed  to  be  so  jolly  under  what  I 
often  saw  to  be  painful  circumstances.  To  crown  my 
misfortunes  I  fell  ill.  After  suffering  for  two  or  three 
days,  I  was  sent  ashore  to  hospital.  Then  I  was  thank- 
ful for  what  I  had  thought  the  climax  of  my  misery. 
For  in  the  hospital  I  was  allowed  to  do  pretty  well  as 
I  liked.  There  was  no  discipline,  no  rule  of  any  kind. 
The  doctor,  as  we  called  him  (I  think  he  must  have 
been  the  dispenser),  was  a  mulatto,  or  quadroon,  with 
a  comical  notion  of  his  vast  importance,  but  a  kindly 
young  fellow  enough.  Sometimes  I  had  medicine  ;  but 
only  by  accident,  I  believe.  At  any  rate,  I  soon  got 
better,  and  rambled  about  the  great  building  or  played  on 
the  beach  outside  with  the  darkle  boys  of  about  my  own 
age,  forgetting  that  such  a  place  as  the  Bonanza  s  fo'lk'sle 
existed.  At  last  I  began  to  hope  that  the  captain  had 
forgotten  my  existence,  having  some  dim  idea,  I  suppose, 
that  I  might  be  allowed  to  spend  an  indefinite  time  in 
this  pleasant  way.  But  I  was  to  be  rudely  undeceived. 
One  day,  when  I  was  presiding  with  great  importance 
over  a  game  at  cricket  (much  I  knew  about  it),  with 
twenty  or  thirty  youngsters  of  almost  as  many  shades 
of  colour  around  me,  I  suddenly  heard  my  captain 
calling  me,  with  an  angry  note  in  his  voice  that  boded 
me  no  good.  He  had  come  up  from  the  town  to  inquire 
about  me,  and  had  caught  me  unaware.  "  You  lazy 
young  sodjer  !  "  he  cried,  "  this  is  how  sick  you  are,  is  it  ? 
I'll  give  you  a  lesson  for  this  !     Get  down  to  the  boat !  " 


108  THE   LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

The  thought  of  returning  to  the  ship  was  so  terrible  to 
me  that  I  actually  dared  to  ask  him  to  let  me  go — to 
discharge  me.  In  a  voice  that  shook  with  fear  and 
anxiety  I  told  him  how  I  had  been  treated,  and  implored 
him  not  to  take  me  back  with  him.  I  believe  he  was 
half-melted,  but  his  anger  at  what  he  thought  was 
my  skulking  got  the  better  of  him.  "  Serve  you  dam 
well  right,"  he  said.  "  I'll  give  you  a  rope's-ending 
myself  when  I've  got  time.  Now  be  off  with  jon, 
straight  down  to  the  boat."  With  that  he  strode  on 
to  the  hospital,  while  I,  feeling  as  if  I  was  going  to 
the  scaffold,  trudged  through  the  sand  down  to  the 
landing-place.  In  about  an  hour  he  returned,  but  said 
no  word  more  to  me  as  the  boat  danced  over  the  wave- 
lets back  to  that  hateful  prison.  It  was  "knock-off" 
time,  and  I  busied  myself  in  sweeping  up  decks  with 
all  the  alacrity  I  could  muster,  until  I  was  free  to  fetch 
my  many  masters  their  tea  from  the  galley.  They 
hailed  me  with  many  sarcastic  queries  after  my  health, 
and  the  noble  time  they  supposed  I  had  enjoyed  ashore 
at  their  expense,  commiserating  Ben  exceedingly  for 
having  been  obliged  to  do  my  work,  as  they  said,  while 
I  had  been  loafing  ashore.  Happily  I  got  over  the 
evening  without  anything  worse  than  hard  words  being 
thrown  at  me.  Some  grievance  or  another  had  excited 
the  anger  of  a  big  Irishman,  and  he  soon  monopolized 
all  attention  by  a  recital  of  his  wrongs.  It  appeared 
that  the  bo'sun  had  "got  a  down  on  him,"  in  his 
opinion ;  but  if  the  bo'sun  thought  that  he,  Mike,  was 
going  to  be  played  with,  that  was  just  where  he  was  all 
adrift.  He,  Mike,  was  a  blank  Fenian,  so  he  was,  an' 
he'd  just  shwim  in  blood  before  he  was  put  upon  by  any 
blank  dock-walloper  that  ever  mooched  around  Black- 


BOUND   FOR   JAMAICA.  109 

wall,  so  he  would.  In  the  fervour  of  his  harangue  he 
omitted  to  notice  how  he  had  raised  his  voice ;  but  he 
was  presently  reminded  of  it  by  the  voice  of  the  bo'sun 
at  the  fo'lk'sle  door,  calling,  "  Mike,  I  want  you  a 
minute !  "  There  was  complete  silence  in  a  moment, 
which  reigned  until  the  bo'sun  repeated  his  words,  with 
the  quiet  addition,  "  You  don't  want  me  to  fetch  you 
out,  I  s'pose  ?  "  Then  Mike  protested  feebly  that  it  was 
his  watch  below,  that  he  was  having  his  supper,  that 
various  reasons,  in  fact,  prevented  him  from  emerging. 
Like  a  tiger  the  bo'sun  leapt  into  the  crowded  space. 
There  was  a  medley  of  arms,  heads,  and  legs,  a  hubbub 
of  inarticulate  noises,  but  out  of  it  all  the  bo'sun 
and  Mike  emerged  on  deck.  How  they  got  there,  I 
don't  believe  any  one  knew.  I  heard  the  bo'sun  im- 
ploring Mike  to  stand  up  to  him  like  a  man,  and  Mike 
piteously  reminding  him  that  he  was  by  no  means  his 
match,  that  he  was  twenty  years  older  (which  was 
nearly  true).  "Very  well,  then,"  said  the  boss,  "not 
so  much  of  your  slack  next  time.  If  you're  an  old  man, 
behave  like  one,  an'  don't  open  your  mouth  so  wide,  in 
case  anybody  jumps  down  your  throat."  There  was 
i:)eace  after  that.  Not  even  a  word  was  said  to  me  when 
I  ventured  to  crawl  into  the  raffle  of  rags  which  was 
my  bunk. 

At  daylight  next  morning  all  hands  were  called  to 
get  under  way.  In  the  cabin  the  skipper  had  been 
entertaining  a  large  party  of  friends,  who  had  been 
keeping  up  an  extensive  carouse  all  night.  Uproariously 
they  departed  their  several  ways  as  we  toiled  at  the 
windlass,  while  boats  from  all  the  other  vessels  in  port 
came  and  fastened  on  to  us  to  assist  us  out  from  between 
the  reefs.     Such  aid  was  absolutely  necessary  unless  the 


110  THE  LOO    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

miserably  slow  method  of  warping  out  by  a  kedge-anchor 
was  resorted  to.  For  iii  these  "West  Indian  ports  there 
is  invariably,  during  the  night,  a  gentle  air  from  the 
land,  which  soon  after  daybreak  dies  away  to  a  complete 
calm,  lasting  perhaps  an  hour,  and  succeeded  by  the 
invigorating  "  doctor,"  or  sea-breeze.  This  latter  soon 
gathers  strength  and  blows  more  or  less  forcibly  all  day 
long.  In  consequence  of  this  it  becomes  imperative  to 
gain  an  offing  before  the  "  doctor  "  begins,  in  order  that 
the  vessel  may  be  able  to  fetch  off  the  land  in  the  teeth 
of  an  increasing  breeze. 

Having  assisted  us  to  get  about  two  miles  out,  the 
boats  cast  off  from  us,  and  with  many  hearty  farewells 
returned  to  port,  taking  with  them  our  pilot.  A  stark 
calm  succeeded  as  usual,  during  which  all  hands  lounged 
about  and  whistled  for  a  breeze,  until  some  of  the 
keener  observers  noticed  that  the  strong  under-tow  was 
sweeping  us  rapidly  towards  a  long  spit  of  sand  that 
stretched  seaward,  about  three  miles  to  the  northward 
of  us.  Presently  the  mate's  anxiety  constrained  him 
to  approach  the  captain,  who,  witli  flushed  face  and 
abstracted  air,  was  pacing  the  poop,  and  suggest  that 
the  anchors  might  be  prepared  for  letting  go.  Strange 
to  say,  the  skipper  received  this  hint  with  a  bad  grace, 
answering  his  officer  so  abruptly  and  angrily  that  his 
words  were  distinctly  audible  all  over  the  ship.  The 
mate,  whose  age  and  experience,  apart  from  his  other 
undeniably  good  qualities,  entitled  him  to  very  different 
treatment,  bowed  and  retired,  evidently  much  hurt.  A 
short  period  of  silence  followed,  while  the  vessel,  her 
sails  hanging  as  if  carved  in  stone,  and  her  hull  motion- 
less, as  if  in  dry  dock,  was  being  carried  along  over  the 
now  visible  coral  bottom  at  the  rate  of  nearly  four  knots 


BOUND    FOR   JAMAICA.  Ill 

an  hour.     At  last  the  bo'sun,  unable  to  contain  himself, 

strode  up  to  the  captain  and  said  boldly,  "  Cap'n , 

if  you  don't  anchor  this  ship'll  be  ashore  in  another  ten 
minutes."  "  Get  off  my  poop,  you  impudent  rascal ! 
How  dare  you  come  an'  speak  to  me  like  that !  For  two 
pins  I'd  put  you  in  irons.  D'ye  think  I  don't  know  my 
duty?  I  never  heard  such  cheek  in  my  life!  "  and  he 
stamped  with  fury.  But  the  bo'sun  simply  said,  "Well, 
don't  you  say  you  wasn't  warned,  that's  all,"  and, 
turning  on  his  heel,  left  the  angry,  unreasonable  man 
to  himself.  By  this  time  all  hands  were  fully  possessed 
of  the  idea  that  only  a  miracle  could  save  the  ship,  for 
the  reef  seemed  to  be  actually  touching  the  keel  through 
the  clear  water  which  was  carrying  us  so  swiftly  over  it. 
And  the  idea  of  the  vessel's  loss  filled  me  with  unholy 
joy.  No  one  could  realize  how  terribly  I  dreaded  the 
homeward  passage,  and,  now  that  deliverance  seemed  so 
near,  I  could  hardly  restrain  my  feelings.  Slinking  into 
the  empty  forecastle,  I  waited  breathlessly  for  the  crash 
I  felt  sure  was  imminent.  It  came,  a  long  grinding 
sensation,  like  a  boat  grounding  on  a  pebbly  beach 
magnified  a  thousand  times.  Almost  delirious,  I  danced 
about  the  place,  in  the  middle  of  which  unpardonable 
exercise  I  was  discovered  by  the  bo'sun.  Outraged 
beyond  speech,  he  dealt  me  one  savage  kick,  Avhich  put 
all  dancing  out  of  my  power  for  many  a  day,  and  for 
the  present  stretched  me  motionless  on  the  deck.  Not, 
however,  to  lie  there  long,  for  hearing  my  name  shouted 
outside,  I  dragged  myself  up,  mustering  all  my  energy, 
and  hobbled  off  to  obey  the  call  before  some  worse  thing 
should  befall  me. 

I  found  all  hands  toiling  like  ants,  getting  out  anchors 
and  hawsers,  and  doing  all  that  experience  could  suggest 


112  THE  LOO    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

to  free  the  vessel  from  the  position  of  clanger  into  which 
she  had  heen  hrought  so  recklessly.  But  the  calm  was 
over,  the  sea-breeze  had  commenced,  and  was  increasing 
so  fast  that  ah-eady  the  hitherto  placid  sea  was  begin- 
ning to  foam.  Breakers,  too,  born  of  the  jagged  reef 
so  close  to  the  surface,  were  rolling  in  steadily,  although 
as  yet  they  were  of  puny  height  and  weight.  Being  at 
so  short  a  distance  from  the  port  we  had  left,  our  plight 
was  plainly  visible  to  those  on  shore.  Consequently,  in 
a  couple  of  hours,  every  boat  of  sufficient  size  in  the 
place  was  alongside.  Scores  of  willing  hands  plied 
every  means  by  which  good  might  be  done,  but  the 
steady  increase  in  wind  and  sea,  driving  directly  shore- 
ward, mocked  all  efforts  at  heaving  the  ship  oft".  There 
were  no  steam  vessels  either  in  Falmouth  or  the 
adjacent  ports,  so  that,  when  every  purchase  that  could 
be  got  upon  the  anchors  and  cables  laid  out  astern  was 
brought  to  a  standstill,  that  branch  of  the  work  was 
perforce  abandoned. 

Then  the  cargo  was  attacked  at  all  three  hatches, 
everybody  working  as  if  their  very  lives  depended  upon 
their  labours.  The  negroes  especially  seemed  to  regard 
the  whole  aft'air  as  a  gigantic  spree,  for  without  abating 
one  jot  of  their  labours,  they  yelled,  sang,  danced  about, 
and  behaved  generally  like  a  pack  of  schoolboys  just  let 
loose  without  an}'  supervision.  As  the  day  wore  on  the 
wind  increased  to  a  strong  gale,  and  the  rollers  attained 
so  formidable  a  height  that  at  times  they  lifted  the 
vessel  bodily  from  her  jagged  bed  of  rock,  letting  her 
fall  again  with  a  crash  that  threatened  to  shake  all  her 
stout  timbers  apart.  After  each  of  these  blows  she 
seemed  to  slide  seawards  a  little,  but  all  her  buoyancy 
was  gone — the  stern  went  down  at  an  increasing  angle. 


AT    EACH    TREMEXDOrS    LIFT    AND    HEAVE    OF    THE    DOOMED    VESSEI,    AT.L 
HANDS    WOULD    MAKE    A    FfiAXTIC    KUSH    To    THE    SIDE. 


BOUND   FOR   JAMAICA.  113 

and  the  water  rose  in  the  hold  so  freely  that  it  was 
evident  there  were  some  serious  gaps  in  the  hull.  Still 
the  work  went  on.  Drogher  after  drogher  left  us  filled 
with  salvage,  while  others  crowded  as  near  as  they 
dared  to  receive  the  bags,  cases  and  bundles,  that  were 
constantly  being  hurled  overside.  By  nightfall  all  our 
own  crew  were  worn  out,  and  transferred  to  one  of  the 
small  craft  which  clung  to  our  side  receiving  the  salved 
cargo.  Each  man  secured  what  he  could  of  his  poor 
belongings,  but  I,  being  unable  in  the  scramble  and 
confusion  to  get  hold  of  the  few  rags  composing  my 
stock  of  clothing,  contented  myself  with  carrying  off  an 
old  wide-awake  hat  containing  five  blind  kittens.  The 
anxious  mother  kept  me  close  company,  much  to  the 
amusement  of  the  toiling  darkies. 

All  through  the  night  the  wind  maintained  a  most 
unusual  force,  and  hour  by  hour  the  work  of  salvage 
became  increasingly  difficult.  Every  package  had  to  be 
dived  for  into  the  blackness  of  the  hold,  which  was  quite 
full  of  water  up  to  the  hatch-coamings.  Great  torches 
of  tarred  rope,  lashed  to  conspicuous  points,  roared  and 
flared  in  the  gale.  By  their  uncertain  glare  the  black 
toilers  darted  hither  and  thither  with  astounding  energy 
and  a  deafening  incessant  tumult  of  wild  song.  Every 
one  was  mother-naked,  and  their  ebony  skins  shone  like 
those  of  a  school  of  gambolling  porpoises.  Ai  each  tre- 
mendous lift  and  heave  of  the  doomed  vessel  all  hands 
would  make  a  frantic  rush  to  the  side,  leaping  with 
blood-curdling  yells  into  the  waiting  droghers.  But  the 
instant  it  was  seen  that  she  yet  survived  the  shock, 
back  they  all  came  and  attacked  the  cargo  with  renewed 
vigour.  At  last  a  bigger  breaker  than  ever  came  along, 
rearing  its  hoary  crest  against  the  paling  sky.    Reaching 

I 


114  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

the  vessel,  it  enwrapped  ber  in  masses  of  shining  foam, 
lifting  her  at  the  same  time  with  such  power  that  for 
half  a  minute  she  seemed  all  afloat.  As  it  receded, 
the  ill-used  hulk,  as  if  loth  to  leave  its  embrace,  slid 
along  the  reef  with  a  rending  crash,  nor  stopped  until 
all  that  remained  visible  of  ber  was  the  jibboom,  pointing 
upward  to  the  sky  like  a  warning  beacon.  In  the  whirl 
of  weltering  foam  left  by  her  sudden  exit,  the  droghers 
danced  like  mad  things,  all  having  been  cut  adrift  as 
the  yelling  crowd  sprang  from  the  sinking  ship.  As 
nothing  more  could  possibly  be  done  for  the  present, 
the  little  fleet  made  sail,  and  stood  in  towards  the  town 
with  their  spoil.  In  every  conceivable  and  inconceivable 
position  the  utterly  wearied  negroes  lay  about  asleep, 
regardless  of  the  flying  spray  or  such  minor  inconveni- 
ences as  being  trampled  upon  by  the  crews.  I  found 
a  snug  corner  out  of  everybody's  way,  and  there,  cuddling 
my  cats,  I,  too,  fell  into  sweet  oblivion.  When  I  awoke, 
the  vessel  was  just  taking  the  beach  in  front  of  the 
town.  The  sun  was  only  just  rising,  but  all  the  popula- 
tion of  Falmouth  appeared  to  be  there,  and  intensely 
solicitous  for  our  welfare.  We  were  immediately  taken 
to  the  "hotel;"  only  a  few  hundred  yards  away,  and  all 
manner  of  creature  comforts  pressed  upon  us  with 
kindly  persistence,  as  if  we  had  been  adrift  for  a  month. 
Suddenly  I  realized  that  I  was  quite  a  centre  of  attrac- 
tion— the  fact  of  my  having  rescued  the  kittens  appear- 
ing to  appeal  to  all  the  visitors  in  a  way  that  I  should 
hardly  have  believed  possible.  But,  indeed,  our  reception 
generally  was  so  kind  that  we  were  all  in  danger  of 
being  spoiled.  Within  the  memory  of  the  oldest  inhabi- 
tant no  wreck  of  such  importance  had  occurred  near  the 
port,  and  consequently,  I  sujDpose,  we  reaped  the  benefit 
of  long-suppressed  benevolence. 


(  115  ) 


CHAPTER  X. 

ADVENTUKES  OF  A  SHIPWRECKED  CKEW. 

The  hotel  to  -which  we  had  been  brought  upon  our 
arrival  was,  although  the  only  one  in  the  place,  far  too 
small  to  stand  the  strain  of  such  an  influx  of  visitors 
as  we  were,  as  far  as  sleeping  accommodation  went. 
Therefore  arrangements  were  made  for  our  lodgment  in 
an  empty  house  in  town,  while  for  all  meals  we  were  to 
return  to  the  hotel.  To  this  sheltering  place  we  w^ere 
escorted  by  a  delighted  band  of  darkies,  who  insisted 
upon  carrying  such  traps  as  we  possessed,  and  also 
worked  like  bees  to  sweep  and  cleanse  the  house.  Such 
bedding  as  we  had  was  spread  upon  the  floor  in  a  big 
front-room,  and  in  Oriental  fashion ;  with  the  sailor's 
ready  adaptability  to  circumstances,  we  made  ourselves 
comfortable.  We  had  plenty  of  company,  for  the  whole 
coloured  population  made  holiday  and  visited  us.  Few 
came  empty  handed,  the  majority  bringing  such  gifts  as 
they  thought  would  please  us  :  mostly  fruit,  tobacco,  and 
rum.  There  w'as  such  abundance  of  the  latter,  that  by 
dinner-time  there  was  a  universal  debauch,  from  which 
I  gladly  escaped.  Making  my  way  down  to  the  beach  I 
found  the  work  of  salvage  in  full  swing,  for  the  hull  of 
the  ship  had  broken  apart  so  much  that  the  floatable 


UG  TBE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

ciiry;o  was  coming  asliorc  in  great  quantities.  Puncheons 
of  rum,  bundles  of  walking-sticks,  cakes  of  bees-wax 
and  innumerable  coco-nuts  were  heaped  in  scattered 
piles  upon  the  beach,  each  of  which  was  guarded  by 
some  one,  whose  allies  were  either  scouring  the  shores 
or  paddling  furiously  after  some  piece  of  flotsam  ap- 
parently worth  pursuit.  Everywhere  I  found  friends. 
8uch  a  godsend  as  this  had  not  fallen  to  the  lot  of  the 
dusky  Falmouthians  before,  and  they  were  willing  to 
recognize  even  the  humblest  member  of  the  crew  as  in 
some  sense  a  benefactor.  When  I  got  tired  of  roaming 
about  the  beach,  I  sought  the  hotel  for  something  more 
satisfying  than  fruit,  and  was  received  by  the  host's 
buxom  daughter,  Marian,  with  great  delight.  She  had 
taken  charge  of  my  hatful  of  kittens,  and  showed  me, 
with  manifest  pride,  how  comfortable  the  old  cat  and 
her  blind  progeny  had  been  made.  Ungrateful  puss 
would  hardly  recognize  me,  her  changed  circumstances 
had  made  her  forget  old  but  humble  friends. 

Noticing  that  I  limped  considerably,  Marian  inquired 
anxiously  whether  I  had  cut  my  foot,  which  made  me 
smile,  since,  not  having  worn  boots  for  months,  my 
natural  soles  were  almost  as  hard  as  tanned  leather. 
But  I  admitted  that  there  was  something  hurting  me  a 
great  deal,  upon  which  she  peremptorily  ordered  me 
to  sit  down  while  she  had  a  look.  A  short  search 
resulted  in  her  finding  the  place,  which  she  proceeded 
to  investigate  with  a  needle,  and  presently  drew  there- 
from a  bag  about  as  large  as  a  marrowfat  pea,  which 
she  opened,  and  showed  me  was  full  of  tiny  eggs. 
"  You'se  had  dem  chigoes  mighty  bad,  chile,"  she  said, 
"  but  I  gwineter  put  stop  to  'em  right  now."  With  that 
she  went  and   fetched   a    tub    of  warm  water.      After 


ADVENTUBES  OF  A   SHIPWRECKED   CREV/.      117 

bathing  my  feet  thoroughly,  she  searched  most  care- 
fully for  more  of  these  pests,  finding  two  other  nests, 
full  like  the  first,  of  eggs,  but  which  had  caused  me  only 
a  slight  itching  sensation.  Having  removed  all  she 
could  see,  she  made  a  vile  compound  of  tobacco-ash  and 
kerosene,  which  she  rubbed  into  the  wounds,  causing 
me  exquisite  pain.  It  took  all  my  fortitude  to  keep 
from  screaming,  and  I  was  unable  to  prevent  a  few  big 
tears  dropping.  With  many  strange  words  of  endear- 
ment she  assured  me  of  her  sympathy,  but  declared 
this  heroic  treatment  to  be  the  only  way  of  efiecting  a 
radical  cure.  I  have  no  doubt  that  she  firmly  believed 
in  her  treatment,  and  I  must  admit  that  in  the  end  it 
was  certainly  efi'ectual ;  but  it  was  so  harsh  that  I  was 
quite  crippled  for  over  a  week.  During  this  miserable 
time  I  was  a  close  prisoner  in  our  empty  house,  being 
generally  alone  during  the  day,  while  through  most  of 
the  night  the  drunken  antics  of  my  shipmates  kept  me 
in  constant  terror.  Nevertheless  there  was  some  slight 
consolation,  for  by  some  means  it  had  got  about  that  I 
could  sing,  and  I  was  sent  for  by  the  officers  of  the 
garrison  to  warble  some  of  my  simple  ditties  for  their 
amusement.  As  I  was  unable  to  walk,  the  messengers 
made  a  rude  litter,  upon  which  they  carried  me  to  the 
hotel,  where  I  was  propped  up  in  an  armchair  while  1 
sang.  The  generosity  of  the  officers  provided  me  with 
plenty  of  money,  unfortunately  of  no  service  to  me, 
since  I  dared  not  refuse  the  constant  demands  of  my 
shipmates,  who,  of  course,  had  none  of  their  own.  I 
made  two  or  three  friends  among  the  better-class  people 
in  the  town,  who  gave  me  quite  a  respectable  bag  of 
half-worn  clothes,  and  also  promised  their  aid  in  other 
directions. 


118  TEE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

At  last,  after  the  lapse  of  three  weeks,  during  which 
time  a  perfunctory  sort  of  inquiry  into  the  loss  of  the 
vessel  was  held,  and  the  captain  acquitted  of  all  blame, 
it  was  decided   to   send  the  crew  round   to  Kingston, 
whence  we  might  get  shipped  home.     A  small  schooner 
was  chartered  for  this  purpose,  as  no  steamers  ran  round 
the  island  ;  and  after  considerable  delay,  provisions  for 
three  days  were  put  on  board,  and  we  set  sail,  doubt- 
less much  to  the  relief  of  those  worthies  who  had  been 
obliged  to  feed  such  a  hungry  horde  as  we  were.    But,  to 
our  great  disgust,  we  found  at  the  first  meal-time  that, 
in   addition   to   the   stock   of  food   being   disgracefully 
small,  it   consisted   solely   of   ship-biscuit,   yams,   and 
salt  beef  of  the  worst  sort.     If  the  kind  providers  of 
this  outfit  could  have  been  affected  by  the  maledictions 
of  our  party,  they  certainly  would  not  have  survived 
the  first  day  of  our  voj'age  ;    after   that,  the  subject 
dropped  from  very  monotony.      Calms  and  light  airs 
prevailed,  and  all  faces  began  to  lengthen  when,  on  the 
evening  of  the  third  day,  the  cook  announced  that  the 
last  of  the  supply  of  food  was  before  us  for  supper,  while 
our   passage  was   only    beginning.      Luckily    a   3'oung 
shark  was  caught,  making  us  a  meagre  breakfast.    Then 
hunger  stared  us  in  the  face.     We  were  at  least  fifteen 
miles  off  the  land,  with  a  dead  calm,  and  nothing  but 
water  left  to  supply  the  needs  of  fourteen  hungry  men. 
No  fish  came  to  our  hooks,  no  vessels  came  near  us, 
and,  as  there  was  nothing  whatever  to  occupy  the  men's 
minds,  the  subject  of  food- supply  was  soon  discussed 
threadbare.       Then,    as   often    happens   among   crews 
similarly  situated,  the  possibility  of  there  being  a  Jonah 
among  us  was  mooted,  and  called   forth  an   amazing 
variety  of  opinions  and  reminiscences.     Unhappily  for 


ADVENTURE8  OF  A    SHIPWRECEED   GREW.      119 

me,  the  bo'sun  was  indiscreet  enough  to  let  out  the 
story  of  my  behaviour  at  the  time  of  the  vessel's  striking 
on  the  reef.  He  told  it  laughingly,  referring,  with  a 
good  deal  of  satisfaction,  to  the  swinging  kick  he  had 
dealt  me,  the  bruise  from  which  had  not  even  then 
disappeared.  But  the  effect  of  his  statement  upon 
those  ignorant  and  frightened  men  was  most  strange 
and  significant.  They  accepted  it  without  question  as 
positive  proof;  first,  that  all  their  misfortunes  were 
due  to  the  presence  of  a  Jonah  among  them,  and, 
secondly,  that  I  was  that  Jonah  ! 

It  may  be  found  difficult  of  belief  that,  among  the 
crew  of  a  London  ship  in  the  year  1871,  such  a  thing 
should  have  been  possible ;  but  I  solemnly  declare  it  to 
be  true  that  they  at  once  decided  that  unless  I  were 
cast  overboard  they  would  never  reach  Kingston.  I  was 
immediately  seized  by  them  and  commanded  to  say  my 
prayers  quickly,  as  I  had  only  a  few  minutes  to  live. 
I  looked  at  those  cruel,  brutish  faces  and  saw  no  gleam 
of  pity ;  I  cried  for  mercy  in  incoherent  terms  while 
they  only  scowled.  With  trembling  lips,  and  scarcely 
beating  heart,  I  tried  to  do  as  they  told  me — say  my 
prayers ;  but  my  senses  were  fast  leaving  me,  and  I  do 
not  really  know  what  I  did  say.  Then  one  of  them  tied 
my  hands  behind  my  back  with  a  bit  of  fishing-line  ;  and 
this  act  first  seemed  to  awaken  the  three  negroes,  who 
were  the  crew  of  the  schooner,  to  the  fact  that  murder 
was  intended.  It  almost  drove  them  crazy  with  fear 
and  horror.  Regardless  of  the  odds  against  them,  they 
rushed  to  my  rescue,  only  to  be  beaten  back  with  the 
assurance  that  little  would  make  my  tormentors  serve 
them  the  same.  The  bitterness  of  death  was  almost 
past,  when,  to  my  unbounded  amazement,  and  renewing 


120  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF 

all  my  hopes  of  life,  help  came  from  the  most  unex- 
pected quarter.  The  bo'sun,  who,  I  do  not  thmk,  had 
realized  himself  how  far  in  earnest  they  were  until  then, 
suddenly  bestirred  himself,  making  one  stride  across 
the  deck  to  where  I  lay,  hardly  conscious.  Oh,  how 
god-like  I  thought  him !  The  scene  returns  to  me  across 
the  chasm  of  years  as  vividly  as  a  photograph.  His 
manly  figure,  erect  before  my  poor  little  shrinking  body, 
and  the  sweep  of  his  strong  right  arm  as  he  drove  those 
bloodthirsty  pagans  back,  will  never  fade  from  my  mind. 
"That's  enough  now,"  he  said,  "ye  dam  idiots!  Did 
ye  think  I  was  goin'  ter  let  yer  drown  the  kid  ?  S'elp 
me  God,  ef  I  thought  yer  really  meant  it,  damfi  wouldn't 
drown  two  or  three  of  ye  meself,  ye  yelpin'  cowardly 
scum  !  "  For  a  short  minute  or  so  they  faced  him,  their 
eyes  glaring  with  the  lust  of  superstitious  cruelty,  and 
then  (it  should  be  remembered  that  there  w'ere  ten  of 
them)  they  slank  away,  muttering  blasphemies  between 
their  clenched  teeth.  With  a  bitter  laugh  of  derision  he 
stooped  and  cut  my  hands  adrift  from  the  lashing,  and 
then  resumed  his  pipe  as  if  nothing  extraordinary  had 
happened.  It  hardly  needs  saying  that  I  cowered  close 
to  his  side,  nor  did  I  once  get  out  of  arm's  length  of  him 
during  the  remainder  of  that  passage. 

Happily  for  us  a  breeze  sprang  up,  sending  the 
schooner  bustling  along  at  a  good  rate  into  the  harbour 
of  Savannah  Le  Mar,  where  we  arrived  late  that  even- 
ing. By  some  means  or  other,  which  I  don't  under- 
stand, considering  our  penniless  condition,  a  good 
supply  of  yams,  salt  fish,  and  water  was  obtained,  and 
we  set  sail  again  at  about  ten  p.m.  by  the  light  of  the 
incandescent  moon.  Our  troubles  were  at  an  end  for 
the  time,  the  wind  holding  strong  and  fair ;   so  that  in 


FOi;    A    8HOKT    MINUTE    OR   SO    THEY    FACED    HIM,    THEIK    EYES    GLAUING    WITH 
THE   LUST   OF    SUPERSTITIOUS    CRUELTY. 


ADVENTUBES   OF  A    SHIPWRECKED  GREW.       121 

less  than  forty-eight  hours  we  were  running  in  swiftly 
past  Port  Pioyal  and  up  to  the  wharves  at  Kingston. 

It  probably  had  never  occurred  to  any  one  of  us  to 
doubt  that  when  we  arrived  there  it  would  be  all  plain 
sailing  for  us.  As  shipwrecked  seamen,  and  in  a  British 
port,  we  naturally  supposed  that  all  we  needed  to  do 
was  to  march  in  a  body  to  the  Sailors'  Home,  show  our 
credentials,  and  be  received  with  the  warmest  of  welcomes. 
And  the  rest  of  our  stay,  until  ships  were  found  for  us 
to  go  home  again  in,  would,  of  course,  be  one  delightful 
round  of  eating,  drinking,  and  sleeping,  varied  by  such 
amusements  as  the  place  afforded.  Accordingly,  every 
man  shouldered  his  belongings,  and  off  we  marched, 
guided  by  friendly  darkies,  to  the  Sailors'  Home,  which 
we  entered  with  the  air  of  projprietors.  It  was  a  fine, 
large  building,  with  a  double  row  of  verandahs  and  an 
air  of  coolness  and  comfort  extremely  grateful  to  us 
after  our  miserable  trip  in  the  schooner.  We  were 
received  with  great  courtesy,  and  shown  to  the  dormi- 
tor}',  which,  with  its  rows  of  clean  beds  and  white 
mosquito- curtains,  looked  like  fairyland.  We  were  told 
that  breakfast  would  be  ready  in  a  few  minutes ;  so  all 
hands  had  a  good  wash,  hastening  down  grubwards  at 
the  first  stroke  of  the  welcome  bell.  There  appeared 
to  be  scarcely  an}'  other  boarders ;  at  any  rate,  there 
were  none  visible  then.  Coffee  and  bread  were  brought, 
and  then  a  white  man  came,  who  introduced  himself  as 
the  superintendent.  He  called  our  attention  to  the  fact 
that  there  were  three  tariff's  here,  according  to  the  kind 
of  food  desired,  and  wished  to  know  which  of  them  we 
would  choose.  The  bo'sun  replied  that,  as  we  were  the 
guests  of  our  countr}',  we  raight  as  well  have  the  best, 
and    added  that,  as  we  were  somewhat  sharp-set,  the 


122  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

sooner  we  got  it  the  happier  we  should  be.  "  Oh,"  said 
the  official;  "if  that's  the  case,  I'm  afraid  I  can't  take 
you  in.  I've  had  no  orders ;  and  our  rule  here  is 
payment  in  advance."  Blank  amazement  overspread 
every  face,  and  half  a  dozen  voices  volubly  attempted 
to  explain  the  situation.  But  to  all  remarks,  remon- 
strances, and  objurgations,  the  superintendent  was 
adamant.  He  had  no  doubt  it  was  all  true  enough  ; 
but  he  had  no  instructions  on  our  behalf,  and,  until  he 
had,  we  could  either  pay  or  go.  When  asked  who  we 
ought  to  apply  to,  he  was  blandly  ignorant ;  but  it  was 
increasingly  evident  that  he  wanted  us  gone  very  badly. 
Well,  there  was  no  help  for  it,  and  so,  breakfastless 
and  dispirited,  we  started  oE  again  to  the  town,  intend- 
ing to  go  to  the  shipping-office,  as  the  only  place  we 
could  think  of.  In  a  foreign  port  we  should,  of  course, 
have  gone  to  the  consul  at  once ;  but  here,  under  our 
own  flag,  no  one  knew  what  to  do.  Our  escort  of 
negroes  grew  quite  imposing  as  we  trudged  along,  and 
the  news  of  our  reception  passed  from  mouth  to  mouth. 
Floods  of  advice  were  poured  upon  us  by  our  sable 
friends,  and  offers  of  hospitality  also  without  limit. 
Indeed,  had  any  of  our  crowd  been  orators,  there  seemed 
to  be  all  the  materials  necessary  for  a  very  decent  riot. 
But,  peaceably  enough,  we  reached  the  shipping-office, 
where  we  asked  humbly  if  we  might  see  his  high- 
mightiness  the  shipping-master.  After  keeping  us 
waiting  for  nearly  an  hour,  this  gentleman  came  out, 
and  in  bullying  tones  demanded  our  business.  Our 
spokesman,  the  bo'suu,  laid  our  hard  case  before  him 
in  a  most  respectful  manner  ;  but  before  he  had  finished 
his  story  the  shipping-master  cut  him  short,  roughly 
telling  him  that  we  had  no  business  to   come   there 


ADVENTURES  OF  A    SHIPWRECKED    CREW.       123 

whining,  and  that  he  had  nothing  to  do  with  us.  And 
■with  that  he  ordered  us  out  of  the  office.  Utterly 
amazed  and  dispirited  at  this  treatment,  we  retired. 
Upon  reaching  the  street  we  were  surrounded  at  once 
by  the  friendly  darkies,  who  made  good  their  previous 
promises  by  carrying  all  hands  off  to  breakfast  in  their 
several  huts,  talking  and  gesticulating  violently  all  the 
time.  Fortunately  I  remembered  that  I  had  a  letter 
of  introduction  to  a  gentleman  in  the  town ;  so,  refusing 
all  offers  of  hospitality,  I  hurried  off  to  present  it.  I 
was  not  very  cordiall}"  received;  but  a  note  to  the 
superintendent  of  the  Sailors'  Home  was  at  once  given 
me,  which  procured  me  instant  admission  to  that  in- 
stitution, with  a  right  to  the  best  entertainment  they 
could  give. 

Meanwhile  the  crew  had  formulated  a  plan  of  cam- 
paign, romantic  enough,  but  promising  well.  It  should 
be  remembered  that  Port  Koyal,  at  the  entrance  to 
Kingston  Harbour  is,  or  was,  one  of  our  most  important 
colonial  naval  stations.  A  huge  old  line-of-battle  ship, 
called  the  Aboukir,  was  then  the  guard-ship,  and  lay 
moored  opposite  the  dockyard  at  Port  Eoyal,  several 
miles  from  Kingston.  A  deiDutation  of  two,  one  of 
which  was  the  bo'sun,  determined  to  board  the  guard- 
ship  and  lay  the  case  before  the  commodore,  feeling, 
like  all  British  seamen  abroad,  that,  although  not  to  be 
lightly  approached,  the  captain  of  a  British  man-o'-war 
could  always  be  depended  upon  to  see  justice  done  to 
any  sailor,  however  humble.  Accordingly,  they  availed 
themselves  of  a  friendly  fisherman's  canoe,  and  immedi- 
ately set  out  on  their  long  paddle  down  the  bay  to  Port 
Royal.  At  the  same  time  the  elderly  Irishman  before 
spoken  of,  volunteered  to  tramp  out  to  Spanish  Town, 


124  TEE  LOG    OF  A    SEA~WA1F. 

the  residence  of  the  Governor  of  Jamaica — a  distance  of 
about  ten  miles,  as  nearly  as  I  can  remember.  He  said 
he  was  well  used  to  the  road,  having  tramped  between 
nearly  every  seaport  in  England.  And  so,  while  the 
majority  of  the  crew  lay  around  in  the  shade  discussing 
the  situation  over  and  over  again  with  a  deeply  interested 
crowd  of  darkies,  male  and  female,  the  messenger  fared 
forth.  The  Port  Eoyal  deputation  reached  their  goal 
first,  and,  cHmbiug  up  the  steep  side  of  the  great  guard- 
ship,  saluted,  and  asked  to  see  the  commodore.  They 
were  promptly  conducted  aft  before  this  officer,  who 
listened  patiently  to  their  yarn,  and  did  not  interrupt 
them  in  its  recital.  When  they  ceased  speaking,  he 
said,  "  Is  that  all,  my  men  ?  "  "  Yes,  yer  honour." 
"  Then  go  forward  and  get  some  food  at  once,  and,  when 
you  have  done  so,  the  second  lieutenant  will  return  with 
you.  You  shall  be  cared  for.  Good  morning."  With 
a  salute  they  retreated,  and,  not  being  hungry,  received 
a  tot  of  grog  instead.  Then,  to  their  astonishment  and 
delight,  thej^  saw  a  natty  little  steam-launch  alongside, 
into  which  they  were  invited  to  descend.  A  smart 
young  lieutenant  in  full  uniform  joined  them,  the  white- 
clad  crew  jumped  in,  and  away  ihey  went  back  to 
Kingston.  Long  before  they  arrived  at  the  landing- 
place  the  anxious  watchers  had  descried  them,  and, 
when  they  touched  land,  there  was  quite  an  excited 
crowd  ready  to  welcome  them.  Straight  to  the  shipping- 
office  went  the  lieutenant,  and  at  his  brief  request  the 
shipping-master  was  immediately  forthcoming.  With- 
out wasting  a  word  the  lieutenant  came  to  the  point, 
demanding  to  know  whether  his  commanding  officer  had 
been  rightly  informed  by  these  men  of  the  state  of  their 
case.    ,  As  the  facts  were  undeniable  there   was   little 


ADVENTURES   OF  A   SHIPWRECKED    CREW.       125 

reply.  Sternl}^,  scornlully,  the  young  officer  remiuded 
the  discomfited  official  of  bis  obvious  duty  to  Britisb 
seamen  in  distress,  witb  an  expression  of  wonder  at  its 
being  necessary  for  liim  to  do  so.  "  You  will  be  good 
enough  to  see  all  these  men's  wants  immediately  attended 
to,  and  a  passage  home  found  for  them  at  the  earliest 
possible  opportunity.  The  commodore  trusts  he  will 
hear  no  more  complaints  of  a  like  nature."  Then,  turn- 
ing on  his  heel,  the  lieutenant  bade  our  delighted  fellows 
good  day,  returning  to  his  launch  amid  the  cheers  of 
the  darkies.  A  clerk  was  at  once  sent  with  the  men  to 
the  "Home "with  instructions  to  the  superintendent, 
and  the  trouble  was  over. 

Not  so  those  of  the  unfortunate  shipping-master, 
who  must  have  been  heartily  sorry  for  his  foolish 
behaviour.  For  late  in  the  afternoon  our  other  mes- 
senger returned  in  state  from  Spanish  Town  in  one  of 
the  governor's  carriages,  accompanied  by  a  secretary 
who  bore  a  message  from  the  governor  that  made  the 
shipping-master  quake.  He  could  only  return  an  abject 
apology,  with  an  assurance  that  the  shipwrecked  crew 
were  now  well  cared-for,  and  that  nothing  on  his  part 
should  be  lacking  for  their  comfort.  But,  though  we 
heard  no  more  of  the  affair,  I  doubt  very  much  whether 
the  shipping-master  did.  From  the  stir  the  event  made 
in  Kingston,  I  am  inclined  to  think  it  was  a  long  time 
before  he  was  permitted  to  forget  it. 

For  about  a  fortnight  I  had  a  rattling  good  time  in 
Kingston.  Confident  in  the  assurance  that  I  should 
not  be  forgotten  whenever  a  chance  presented  itself  of 
getting  away,  I  cast  all  care  to  the  winds,  and  set  about 
enjoying  myself  all  I  knew  how.  Moonlight  fishing- 
excursions    in    ramshackle    canoes   to    sheltered   coves 


126  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

around  the  great  harbour,  long  rambles  in  the  wonderful 
brakes  and  jungles  with  darkies,  that,  though  men  in 
years,  were  children  in  their  fresh  enjoyment  of  every- 
thing ;  singing-parties  along  the  beautiful  beaches  in 
the  silky  evenings,  and  all  with  never  a  thought  of 
to-morrow — oh,  it  was  heavenly  !  I  scarcely  saw  any- 
thing of  my  shipmates.  I  didn't  want  to.  My  new 
associates,  although  black,  were  full  of  kindliness,  and 
as  pleased  with  me  as  I  was  with  them ;  what  wonder 
that  I  avoided,  as  far  as  I  could,  any  intercourse  with 
men  whose  presence  only  reminded  me  of  miserable 
days  better  forgotten.  Out  of  the  many  incidents  that 
are  mellowed  by  time  into  a  haze  of  half  recollection, 
one  grotesque  affair  stands  out  sharply,  and  even  now 
makes  me  quiver  with  laughter  as  its  vivid  details 
reappear.  A  favourite  pastime  with  the  elite  of  the 
coloured  population  was  to  gather  in  large  numbers, 
dressed  in  all  their  finery,  upon  an  old  disused  pier, 
whose  crazy  piles  and  beams  actually  swayed  with  a 
stronger  breeze  than  usual.  Upon  this  ancient  struc- 
ture, when  the  day's  work  was  over,  the  young  men 
and  women  would  frisk  or  loll  about,  according  to  their 
humour  ;  but  their  chief  amusement  was  the  singing  of 
chanties,  camp-meeting  hymns,  and,  in  fact,  anything 
with  a  rousing  chorus  in  which  all  hands  could  join. 
On  the  night  in  question,  song  had  succeeded  song 
until  somebody  sent  an  electric  thrill  through  the  whole 
gathering  b}^  starting  the  negroes'  great  anthem  of 
freedom,  "Marching  through  Georgia."  You  could 
hear  the  pulses  of  that  great  crowd  beat  while  they 
waited  breathlessly  for  the  last  word  of  the  sonorous 
verse ;  and  then,  in  one  tremendous  burst  of  melody, 
every  one  lifted  up   heart  and  voice,  while  from   far- 


ADVENTURES   OF  A   SHIPWBECKED   CREW.      127 

away  fishermen  on  the  bay,  and  labourers  on  the  hills 
the  inspiring  chorus  rolled  on.  As  verse  succeeded 
verse  the  enthusiasm  rose  to  fever-heat ;  every  one 
sprang  to  their  feet,  waving  their  arms  and  stamping 
in  unison  until  the  crazy  structure  upon  which  they 
stood  trembled  to  its  ancient  foundations.  It  was  a 
wonderful  sight,"  having  its  ludicrous  side,  doubtless  ; 
but  the  high  seriousness,  and  irrepressible  energy  of 
the  actors,  prevented  all  desire  to  laugh.  Suddenly,  in 
the  height  of  the  chorus,  there  was  a  rending  crash, 
and  the  entire  fabric  collapsed  in  one  chaotic  heap 
of  disjointed  timbers  and  shrieking  humanity  into 
the  placid  waters  beneath.  No  one  was  hurt,  for 
the  tide  was  high,  and  every  darkey  swam  like  a 
fish ;  but  the  scene  of  mad  merriment  on  the  beach, 
as  one  draggled  figure  after  another  emerged  from 
the  wreckage,  was  indescribable.  Not  until  long  after 
midnight  did  the  peals  of  laughter  entirely  cease, 
for  they  rose  again  and  again  in  all  quarters  of  the 
town,  as  the  participants  rehearsed  the  scene  to  those 
who  had  not  been  fortunate  enough  to  witness  it. 

I  had  begun  to  feel  as  if  I  had  always  lived  there, 
and  the  thought  of  leaving  had  quite  disappeared  from 
my  mind,  when  one  day  I  received  a  note  from  the 
gentleman  to  whom  I  had  brought  the  letter  of  intro- 
duction, telling  me  to  go  on  board  a  large  steamer, 
which  had  arrived  at  Kingston  that  morning,  as  he  had 
seen  the  captain,  and  made  arrangements  for  me  to  be 
allowed  to  work  my  passage  home. 


128  THE   LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 


CHAPTER   XI. 

AN    EVENTFUL    PASSAGE    HOME. 

Now  that  the  time  of  my  departure  drew  near,  the  same 
old  feeHng  of  reluctance  to  leave  a  place  to  which  I  had 
become  accustomed  came  upon  me  with  its  usual  force. 
Possibly  because  I  was  never  very  long  in  one  place, 
I  have  always,  except  in  one  instance,  felt  loth  to  begin 
wandering  again ;  and,  even  now,  my  mind  often  turns 
regretfully  to  the  many  ports  I  have  visited,  and  quite 
a  painful  longing  seizes  me  to  see  them  all  again. 
Therefore  I  am  afraid  I  did  not  feel  nearly  as  grateful 
to  my  friend  as  I  ought  to  have  done;  but,  fully  realiz- 
ing how  dangerous  it  was  for  me  not  to  take  advantage 
of  this  offer,  I  made  myself  as  presentable  as  I  could 
and  hurried  on  board.  The  captain,  a  big,  burly  gentle- 
man in  a  smart  uniform,  received  me  with  a  sharp 
glance,  and  dismissed  me  at  once  with  a  curt  "All 
right ;  go  and  tell  the  chief  steward  I've  sent  you  to 
him."  I  thanked  him,  and  left  the  presence,  very  much 
in  awe  of  the  gorgeous  surroundings  and  great  size  of 
everything,  so  different  to  all  my  previous  experience 
of  shipboard.  She  was  a  fairly  large  steamship  for 
those  days,  I  suppose  of  nearly  three  thousand  tons ; 
but  to  me  she  was  vast  beyond  conception.     When  I 


AN  EVENTFUL  PASSAGE  HOME.  129 

entered  the  saloon,  I  felt  utterly  crushed  beneath  the 
splendour  of  the  place — oh,  how  small  and  shabby  it 
would  look  now,  beside  the  floating  palaces  of  to-day  ! — 
and  I  hardly  dared  to  tread  upon  the  thick  carpet  which 
was  laid,  the  vessel  being  in  harbour.  When  I  found 
the  chief  steward,  he  cross-examined  me  pretty  sharply 
as  to  my  qualifications,  etc. ;  but,  being  short-handed, 
he  was  glad  of  even  such  help  as  I  could  give,  and 
promptly  set  me  to  work.  Now,  for  the  first  time,  I 
became  acquainted  with  the  toilsome  routine  of  house- 
maid's duties  which  have  to  be  performed  by  the 
steward's  staff  of  a  passenger  steamer :  endless  dish- 
washing, knife  and  silver-cleaning,  floor-scrubbing,  and 
metal-polishing.  And  all  the  work  had  to  be  done  by 
a  staff  of  four,  exclusive  of  my  insignificant  self;  so 
that  the  chief  steward  had  no  time  to  play  the  gentle- 
man at  large  that  he  so  often  appears  where  the  man- 
ning is  on  a  more  liberal  scale.  Indeed,  but  for  the 
second  steward — a  dapper  Chinese,  rejoicing  in  the 
most  unappropriate  name  of  "Hadji" — I  don't  think 
we  could  ever  have  kept  things  straight.  But  Hadji 
was  a  host  in  himself.  Never  in  a  hurry,  always  look- 
ing well-groomed  and  smart,  the  amount  of  work  that 
this  wonderful  little  man  got  through  in  a  day  was 
marvellous.  Not  more  so,  however,  than  his  history, 
of  which  one  episode  will  suffice  as  a  sample.  While 
working  on  board  a  large  steamer  of  this  same  employ 
lying  in  Colon,  there  was  a  terrific  explosion  on  board — 
whether  of  gunpowder  or  nitro-glycerine  I  have  for- 
gotten. Men,  decks,  fittings,  were  hurled  skyward 
amidst  a  vast  cloud  of  smoke,  and  the  fragments  fell 
in  an  immense  area,  extending  for  hundreds  of  yards 
around  the  unfortunate  ship.     When  the  first  alarm 

K 


130  THE  LOO    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

had  subsided,  the  stewards  of  an  adjacent  vessel  returned 
to  their  tasks  below,  and  found  Hadji  on  the  saloon 
table,  having  crashed  through  the  skylight  in  his 
descent,  but  unhurt,  and  apparently  unaffrighted.  It 
was  not  easy  to  imagine  what  would  disturb  his  smiling 
sangfroid.  If  in  a  gale  of  wind  a  heavy  sea  found  its 
way  below,  causing  the  utmost  hubbub  and  terror 
among  the  passengers,  whether  by  night  or  day,  Hadji 
would  appear  in  the  thick  of  the  melee,  calmly  setting 
everything  and  everybody  to  rights,  his  pleasant  smile 
most  reassuring  to  behold. 

But,  in  my  admiration  for  this  invaluable  Celestial, 
I  am  forgetting  current  events.  The  day  we  were  to 
sail,  I  was  much  astonished  to  see  all  my  old  shipmates 
march  on  board,  having  been  sent  by  the  shipping- 
master  for  a  passage  to  England  in  his  anxiety  to  avoid 
another  interview  with  the  offended  powers.  They  were 
passengers  in  the  sense  that  no  work  was  expected  of 
them ;  but  they  lived  and  messed  with  the  crew.  How- 
ever, as  we  were  at  different  ends  of  the  ship,  we  did 
not  come  in  contact  at  all,  for  which  I  was  grateful. 
Yet,  strangely  enough,  I  got  into  my  first  and  only 
scrape  on  board  through  them.  The  waste  of  food  from 
the  saloon  table  was  very  great;  but  my  instructions 
■were  to  throw  all  broken  meats  into  a  "  dog-basket  "  at 
washing-up  time,  with  all  sorts  of  dirty  odds  and  ends, 
which  basket  was  presently  emptied  over  the  side.  I 
managed  to  obtain  a  clean  basket,  into  which  I  turned 
all  such  broken  victuals  as  I  considered  worth  saving, 
and,  watching  my  opportunity,  I  carried  this  provender 
forward  to  my  shipmates,  who  I  knew  were  getting  only 
the  usual  miserable  fare.  In  this  benevolent  work  I 
was  discovered  by  the  chief  steward,  who  "  clouted  my 


AN  EVENTFUL  PASSAGE  HOME  131 

ear,"  as  he  termed  it,  and  threatened  me  "with  all  sorts 
of  pains  and  penalties  if  I  dared  to  so  offend  again. 
So  from  thenceforth  all  the  good  food  not  wanted  aft 
went  overboard  as  before. 

We  were  bound  to  Liverpool  via  Port-au-Prince,  in 
the  Island  of  Hayti,  and,  from  a  few  words  let  fall  by 
the  passengers,  I  gathered  that  it  was  just  possible  we 
might  see  some  "fun,"  as  they  termed  it.  I  did  not 
then  know  that  Hayti  was  in  the  throes  of  a  successful 
revolution  against  the  sovereignty  of  Spain  and  France, 
which  eventually  resulted  in  the  establishment  of  two 
republics  in  the  island ;  one-half  calling  itself  the 
republic  of  Hayti,  the  other  that  of  St.  Domingo.  At 
that  time  the  long  struggle  must  have  been  drawing 
near  its  close,  for  on  land  the  triumphant  negroes  had 
things  all  their  own  way,  while  at  sea  the  fleets  of  France 
and  Spain  played  at  what  they  were  pleased  to  call  a 
blockade.  Whether  any  vessels  trading  with  Hayti 
paid  any  attention  to  the  alleged  blockade,  I  do  not 
know ;  certainly  we  did  not.  Nothing  at  all  in  our 
proceedings  would  have  suggested  to  any  one  that  we 
were  making  for  a  blockaded  port.  Even  when,  as  we 
steamed  briskly  up  the  long  V-shaped  gulf,  at  the  apex 
of  which  Port-au-Prince  lies,  we  sighted  two  grim-looking 
warships  lying  at  anchor  on  either  side  of  the  fairway 
with  steam  up,  no  more  notice  was  taken  of  them  than 
the  usual  curiosity  evinced  by  passengers  at  a  strange 
sail.  As  we  passed  between  them  we  could  see  that  one 
was  French,  the  other  Spanish,  by  their  ensigns  flying. 
We  rendered  the  usual  sea-courtesy  of  dipping  our 
flag,  but  of  that  no  notice  at  all  was  taken  by  them. 
Doubtless,  as  usual,  they  felt  none  too  amicably  disposed 
towards  the  all-pervading  Anglais.     Pdght  onward  we 


132  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

steamed  into  the  harbour,  and  alongside  the  Company's 
hulk,  where  such  scanty  cargo  as  could  be  collected 
awaited  us.  The  only  other  vessel  lying  there  was  a 
long,  low  steamer  of  perhaps  700  or  800  tons,  whose 
raking,  schooner-spars  and  funnel,  and  the  light  grey- 
blue  that  everything  was  painted,  to  say  nothing  of  the 
miniature  stars  and  stripes  that  floated  from  her  flag- 
staff, spelt  "  Yankee  filibuster "  as  plainly  as  if  she 
had  been  lettered  with  those  words  in  characters  two 
feet  wide.  There  was  no  sign  of  life  on  board  of  her, 
except  a  mere  suggestion  of  bluish  smoke,  that  curled 
slowly  from  her  funnel,  telling  of  banked  fires  below. 
For  some  time  she  was  an  object  of  the  greatest  interest 
to  all  on  l)oard,  until  other  matters  occupied  all  our 
attention. 

The  town  was  in  a  pitiable  condition.  What  with 
the  long  rebellion  and  civil  broils,  in  addition  to  the 
careless,  happy-go-lucky  fashion  in  which  the  farce  of 
government  was  carried  on,  whole  streets  were  in 
ruins  ;  business  was  at  a  standstill,  and  even  the  few 
merchants  who  still  clung  to  the  remnants  of  their 
trade  were  in  desj)air.  It  was  no  place  for  white  men, 
anyhow.  The  negro  was  master  of  the  situation.  He 
had  fought  long  and  savagely  for  his  independence,  and 
now  that  he  had  got  it  he  was  drunken  with  it  as  with 
brandy.  That  careless  white  man  who  omitted,  from 
any  cause,  to  salute  in  the  humblest  manner  any 
functionary  of  the  Government  of  the  hour,  however 
ludicrous  in  appearance,  speedily  found  himself  in 
serious  trouble,  out  of  which  he  did  not  easily  extricate 
himself.  And  since  new  ofdcials  were  constantly 
emerging  from  the  rag-tag  and  bob-tail,  the  only  wise 
course  was  to  salute  every  black  man,  no  matter  how 


^.V  EVENTFUL   PASSAGE  HOME.  133 

menial  his  capacity  might  be.  One  never  knew  whether 
the  road-mender  of  to-day  might  not  be  a  general  of 
division  to-morrow,  having  power  of  life  and  death 
even  while  wanting  a  decent  pair  of  trousers. 

A  party  of  our  fellows  were  allowed  to  go  ashore,  by 
a  serious  error  of  judgment,  and,  as  they  strolled  care- 
lessly along  one  of  the  principal  thoroughfares,  they 
met  a  company  of  soldiers  so  scarecrow-like  that  they 
simply  stood  and  roared  with  laughter.  This  had  been 
crime  enough,  but  the  sailor-men  must  needs  aggravate 
their  offence.  The  officer  in  command,  swelling  with 
rage,  demanded  their  salute.  Instead  of  complying 
they  indulged  in  some  ribaldry,  in  which  his  get-up,  as 
well  as  that  of  his  ragged  regiment,  was  held  up  to 
ridicule  in  effective  fashion.  This  behaviour  could  not 
be  tolerated.  They  were  surrounded,  overpowered,  and 
dragged  off  to  the  "calabozo."  Then,  when  they  saw 
what  their  foil}'  had  led  them  into,  they  repented  sorely. 
It  had  been  worth  any  amount  of  "ko-tow"  to  have 
escaped  from  such  a  fate  as  now  befell  them.  The 
lock-up  was  apparently  an  ancient  cow- byre,  standing 
like  an  island  in  a  lake  of  sewage  which,  under  that 
blazing  sun,  sent  up  a  steam  of  putridity  into  the  heavy 
air.  Through  this  foul  morass  they  were  dragged  with 
every  indignity  their  exulting  captors  could  devise,  and 
there,  more  dead  than  alive,  they  were  left  for  twenty- 
four  hours,  when  the  captain  managed  to  overcome  the 
stubborn  attitude  of  the  sable  authorities,  and  induce 
them  to  accept  a  substantial  fine.  When  they  were 
released  and  brought  on  board  they  looked  like  resus- 
citated corpses,  and  every  article  of  clothing  they  wore 
had  to  be  flung  overboard.  The  doctor  examined  them 
with   gathering   anxiety   upon   his   face,  but   his    only 


134  TEE  LOO    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

comment  was  "  The  sooner  we're  out  of  this  hell-hole 
the  better." 

Fortunately  we  were  to  sail  in  the  morning,  for 
every  one  was  feverishly  anxious  to  be  gone.  That 
evening  a  passenger  embarked,  who  came  alongside  in 
a  canoe  paddled  by  two  negroes,  bringing  with  him 
several  weighty  chests.  He  was  a  well-dressed  black 
man,  with  an  air  of  nervous  anxiety ;  and  he  hovered 
around,  while  his  baggage  was  being  hoisted  on  board, 
as  if  he  dared  not  trust  it  out  of  his  sight.  When  it 
was  all  safely  embarked  and  carried  below,  to  a 
muttered  accompaniment  of  growls  at  its  weight,  the 
canoe  and  its  sable  crew  disappeared  into  the  darkness, 
while  the  passenger  also  hid  himself,  and  rarely 
appeared  thenceforward. 

At  daybreak  all  hands  were  astir,  the  firemen  work- 
ing like  sooty  gnomes  down  in  their  gloomy  pit  to  get 
steam  up,  while  dense  volumes  of  smoke  poured  from  our 
funnels,  gladdening  the  eyes  of  all  hands.  Amidst  the 
universal  activity  we  yet  found  time  to  notice  that  the  thin 
coronal  of  vapour  hovering  above  the  smoke-stack  of 
the  filibuster  was  also  getting  more  palpable,  and  the 
knowing  ones  winked  at  each  other  meaningly.  At  last 
a  hissing  from  our  steam-pipe  betokened  full  pressure 
in  the  boilers,  the  "  old  man  "  mounted  the  bridge,  and 
all  hands  took  their  stations.  "  Cast  off  fore  and  aft !  " 
shouted  the  skipper.  Willing  hands  released  the  heavy 
hawsers  from  the  bitts,  and,  with  a  rattle  of  steam- 
winches  and  cheerful  yells  from  the  crew,  we  moved 
slowly  away  from  the  hulk,  the  ensign  and  "house- 
flag  "  being  run  up  at  the  same  time.  Then,  to  our 
breathless  amazement,  the  filibuster,  apparently  of  her 
own  accord,  stole  from  her  position  and  came  gently 


AN  EVENTFUL   PASSAGE  HOME.  135 

alongside,  a  tall,  romantic-looking  figure  mounting  her 
bridge  as  she  did  so.  So  close  did  she  come  that  the 
figure  on  the  bridge  was  able  to  stej)  nimbly  on  board 
of  us.  He  was  a  spare,  elegantly-built  man,  dressed  in 
a  well-fitting  suit  of  grey  silk,  with  an  immense  white 
Panama  sombrero  on  his  head.  He  was  strikingly 
handsome,  having  a  dark,  oval  face,  with  a  heavy  black 
moustache  and  Velasquez  beard,  while  his  black,  bril- 
liant eyes,  wide  set,  seemed  to  take  in  everything  at  a 
glance.  Shaking  hands  cordially  with  our  captain,  he 
said  a  few  words  inaudible  on  deck;  then  the  pair 
descended  from  the  bridge,  and,  joined  by  the  mate, 
entered  the  chart-room.  They  remained  there  for  a 
couple  of  minutes  with  the  door  closed,  and  then, 
coming  out  again,  the  Yankee  leapt  on  board  his  own 
vessel,  while  our  two  ofiicers  took  their  stations — the 
captain  on  the  bridge  and  the  mate  forward.  Our 
engine-room  bell  clanged  the  order,  "Full  sf»eed  ahead," 
and,  as  the  engines  responded,  our  good  ship  vibrated 
from  stem  to  stern  under  their  impulse.  Without  any 
apparent  eflort  the  Yankee  kept  her  place  by  our  side, 
not  a  soul  visible  on  board,  except  the  tall  figure  lolling 
calmly  on  the  bridge,  meditatively  i^uffing  at  a  big  cigar. 
The  decks  being  cleared,  there  was,  for  a  brief  space, 
nothing  to  do ;  so  all  hands,  including  passengers, 
crowded  the  rails,  watching  with  breathless  interest  the 
two  warships  which  still  lay  in  grim  silence  where  they 
were  when  we  entered  the  harbour.  Not  a  word  was 
spoken,  and  the  clanging  chorus  of  the  massive  machi- 
nery below  seemed  many  times  louder  than  we  had 
ever  heard  it  before.  The  scene  was  sufficiently  im- 
pressive to  fix  itself  permanently  in  the  memory  of 
every  one  on  board.     There  was  not  a  breath  of  wind, 


136  TEE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

the  water  of  the  widening  gulf  lying  like  another  sky 
before  us,  tinted  in  innumerable  shades  by  the  floating 
clouds  and  the  richly-coloured  hills  on  either  hand. 
Every  thrust  of  the  pistons  drove  us  nearer  those  two 
surly  sentinels  laden  with  potential  destruction,  which 
we  all  well  knew  might,  at  any  moment,  be  let  loose 
upon  us.  But  there  was  much  comfort  in  an  occasional 
glance  at  the  splendid  old  red  ensign  flying  gallantly 
overhead,  for  everybody  on  board  felt  how  much  might 
and  majesty  it  represented.  Nearer  and  nearer  we  drew 
to  the  point  midway  between  the  warships,  that  now 
began  to  show  a  thickening  cloud  of  smoke  at  their 
funnels,  and  a  white  feather  of  escaping  steam.  At 
last  we  were  fairly  between  them.  Suddenly  the  silent 
Yankee  alongside  straightened  himself,  made  us  a 
sweeping  bow,  and  said,  "  A  thousand  thanks,  captain. 
Farewell,  ladies  and  gentlemen,  and  a  pleasant  passage. 
G'lang  ahead !  "  At  his  word  a  gong  boomed  below, 
and  the  lithe  vessel  sprang  forward  like  an  unleashed 
greyhound,  the  i)itchy  fumes  from  her  funnel  filling  the 
clear  air  with  the  stench  of  burning  petroleum.  Boom  ! 
boom !  went  two  big  guns  from  the  men-of-war  as  they 
both  started  in  chase,  while  from  the  filibuster's  mast- 
head the  flag  dipped  as  if  in  ironical  courtesy.  Many 
shots  were  fired  after  the  daring  craft ;  but  although 
the  fountains  cast  up  by  the  massive  shot  apparently 
played  all  around  her,  none  actually  reached  her.  And 
as  she  certainly  steamed  nearly  two  knots  to  their  one, 
she  was  soon  hopelessly  out  of  range.  Eecognizing 
this,  they  gave  up  the  chase.  I  suppose,  according  to 
the  rules  of  romance,  they  should  now  have  intercepted 
us ;  but  this  is  fact,  not  fiction,  and  so  it  must  be 
admitted  that  they  paid  not  the  slightest  attention  to 


AN  EVENTFUL   PASSAGE  HOME.  137 

US,  but  returned  to  their  old  position.  Despite  our  good 
rate  of  speed,  in  less  than  four  hours  there  was  nothing 
visible  of  our  protege  but  a  long  grimy  streak  in  the 
bright  blue  sk}'. 

Under  ordinary  circumstances  such  an  adventure 
would  have  afforded  an  inexhaustible  topic  of  conver- 
sation during  the  remainder  of  the  passage,  but  un- 
happily, a  much  more  serious  matter  soon  claimed 
everj^body's  attention.  Those  truly  awful  words,  "  Yellow 
fever,"  began  to  circulate  in  terrified  whispers,  while 
the  merry,  genial  doctor's  face  looked  terribly  solemn. 
There  was  little  suspense.  The  very  next  day  the  first 
victim  died — one  of  the  men  who  had  spent  the  night 
in  that  unspeakably  filthy  calabozo  at  Port-au-Prince. 
Ordinary  prudence  forbade  any  delay  in  disposing  of 
the  poor  remains.  In  less  than  an  hour  after  death 
came  the  solemn  little  meeting,  the  bare- headed  group  at 
the  gangway,  the  long  white  bundle  on  a  hatch  at  an 
open  port,  the  halting,  diffident  reading  of  the  old 
sublime  Service,  and  then  the  hoarse  s-s-s-s-h,  and  the 
sullen  plunge  into  the  unknown  dei)ths. 

The  destroyer  made  such  strides  that  a  large  tent 
had  to  be  rigged  over  the  main  hatch  as  an  open-air 
hospital,  and  there  the  brave,  unwearying  doctor 
laboured  day  and  night  at  his  hopeless  task.  There 
was  no  discrimination,  except  as  far  as  the  passengers 
were  concerned — perhaps  because  they  were  better 
seasoned  to  the  climate.  At  any  rate  none  of  them 
were  attacked ;  but  of  the  ship's  company,  ofiicers, 
engineers,  firemen,  sailors,  and  stewards  all  gave  tithe 
to  death.  The  disease  was  terribly  swift  in  its  operation. 
One  Friday  morning  our  bo'sun's  mate,  a  huge,  hirsute 
Irishman,  suddenly  complained  of  his  head.     This  was  at 


138  THE  LOO    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

eight  a.m.  At  ten  a.m.  be  was  in  the  hospital  grinding 
his  teeth  in  cleHrium.  A  few  minutes  after  everybody 
on  deck  was  terrified  at  the  apparition  of  a  mother- 
naked  giant,  armed  with  the  cook's  axe,  which  he  had 
snatched  from  beside  the  galley  door,  rushing  madly 
about  the  decks.  Xot  many  seconds  elapsed  before  he 
was  alone,  striking  furiously  at  everything  in  his  way, 
while  the  foam  flew  from  his  gaping  mouth.  Having 
made  the  round  of  the  deck  aft,  he  came  to  the  weather 
side  of  the  wheel-house,  within  which  the  quarter- 
master was  calmly  steering  quite  unconscious  of  what 
was  happening.  Suddenly  the  maniac  caught  sight  of 
him  through  the  side  window,  and  immediately  rained 
a  torrent  of  tremendous  blows  u^Don  the  stout  teak  door. 
Poor  Teddy  fled  out  of  the  lee  door,  and  up  into  the 
main  rigging  just  as  Carney  burst  in.  Then  all  was 
quiet.  After  a  while  some  one  was  courageous  enough 
to  creep  along  and  peer  in.  There  was  Carney,  lying 
at  full  length  on  the  grating,  having  fallen  upon  the 
upturned  edge  of  the  axe,  which  had  sunk  deep  enough 
into  his  chest  to  have  let  out  a  dozen  lives.  The  place 
was  like  a  slaughter-house.  That  afternoon  one  reading 
of  the  Service  sufficed  for  three  burials,  two  more 
men  having  died  while  the  maniac  had  possession  of 
the  deck. 

Naturally  there  was  little  levity  on  board.  Cooped 
up  with  such  an  awful  scourge  none  felt  inclined  for 
merriment.  But  the  ordinary  routine  of  work  went  on 
without  a  hitcb.  My  shipmates  were  set  to  work  on 
full  wages  to  supply  the  places  of  the  dead,  and, 
although  they  did  not  relish  doing  firemen's  duty,  they 
were  not  sorry  to  have  the  prospect  of  a  little  money 
when   they   reached   home,   supposing   they   were   still 


EVERYBODY    ON    DECK    WAS    TE'.JKIFIED    AT    THE    APPARITION    OF    A    MOTHER- 
NAKED   GIANT   ARMED   WITH   THE   COOK's   AXE. 


AN  EVENTFUL   PASSAGE  EOME.  139 

alive.  My  turn  came.  One  morning  at  five  o'clock, 
when,  as  usual,  I  was  called  to  begin  my  day's  work,  I 
lifted  my  head  to  rise,  but  it  fell  again  like  a  piece 
of  lead.  A  feeling  of  utter  helplessness  had  seized  my 
whole  body,  although  I  could  not  say  I  felt  ill.  But 
not  even  the  awe  in  which  I  stood  of  the  chief  steward 
could  overcome  my  want  of  strength,  and  I  humbly 
said,  "  I'm  not  able  to  get  up,  sir."  Instantly  alarmed, 
the  steward  fetched  the  doctor,  who,  after  feeling  my 
pulse,  etc.,  pulled  me  out  of  the  bunk  and  set  me  on 
my  trembling  legs,  telling  the  steward  to  put  me  to 
some  work  that  did  not  require  any  running  about,  but 
on  no  account  to  allow  me  to  sit  down.  His  orders 
were  strictly  obeyed,  but  how  I  got  through  that 
dreadful  day  I  cannot  tell.  I  felt  as  if  I  would  gladly 
have  given  the  whole  world  to  be  allowed  to  lie  down 
for  a  little  while,  and  several  times  my  legs  doubled  up 
under  me,  letting  me  sink  in  a  heap  on  the  pantry 
deck,  but  there  was  no  respite  allowed  me.  This  stern 
treatment  was  completely  successful,  for  by  supper-time 
I  felt  quite  strong  again,  and  I  was  troubled  no  more  by 
any  recurrence  of  those  alarming  symptoms.  What 
was  the  matter  with  me,  I  never  knew ;  but  undoubtedly 
I  owed  my  life  to  the  doctor's  wisdom,  much  as  I  hated 
his  treatment  at  the  time.  Day  after  day  dragged  on, 
each  bringing  with  it  a  death  for  some  one  of  our 
diminishing  number,  while  the  doctor,  worn  almost  to 
a  shadow,  still  battled  with  the  enemy  with  unabated 
vigour.  His  chief  task  was  with  those  who  had  won 
through  the  crisis,  to  nurse  them  back  to  strength 
again.  Beef-tea  with  brandy  was  his  sheet  anchor,  and 
this  potent  reviver  he  was  continually  administering  in 
tiny  doses,  while  commenting  cheerily  on  its  marvellous 


140  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

virtues,  to  liis  wasted  patients.  Then,  as  if  to  fill  up 
our  cup  of  misfortunes,  the  engines  suddenly  stopped. 
The  boilers  were  old — in  fact,  too  old  for  safe  use — and 
one  of  them  had  sprung  a  dangerous  leak.  The  engi- 
neers attacked  the  trouble  with  that  stolid  heroism  for 
which  their  class  is  famous,  although,  from  its  prosaic 
nature,  little  is  thought  or  said  about  it  by  a  world  that 
loves  its  heroes  to  glitter  with  pomp  and  circumstance, 
and  to  do  their  great  deeds  upon  some  conspicuous 
stage.  Down  beneath  the  boilers,  where  the  narrow 
limits  compelled  them  to  lie  at  full  length,  half  roasted 
by  the  fierce  heat,  and  scalded  from  head  to  heel  by 
the  spirtings  of  boiling  water,  they  laboured  with  hardly 
a  pause  for  a  day  and  a  night.  They  succeeded  in  the 
almost  incredible  task  of  patching  up  the  leaky  source 
of  our  speed,  doing  moreover  their  work  so  well  that, 
although  our  rate  of  going  was  greatly  reduced,  the 
repairs  held  good  until  we  reached  port. 

The  joyful  day  arrived  at  last  when  the  faithful 
doctor  was  able  to  announce  that  the  yellow  fever  had 
left  us,  and  that,  unless  some  of  the  convalescents  died 
of  weakness,  there  would  be  no  more  deaths  from  that 
scourge.  It  was  high  time.  In  the  short  period  of 
twenty  days  we  had  buried  thirty  men,  every  one  of 
whose  deaths  was  distinctly  traceable  to  that  foul  den 
in  Port-au-Prince.  Happily  the  weather  held  fine,  and 
the  wind  hung  to  the  south-west,  so  that  we  were  able 
to  help  her  along  with  the  sails,  until  one  morning  a 
thrill  of  delight  ran  through  the  ship  at  the  sight  of 
green  water  alongside,  sure  sign  of  our  nearness  to  the 
Channel.  Presently  that  solitary  sentinel,  the  Fastnet, 
hove  in  sight,  and  soon  behind  it  we  saw  the  green  hills 
of  Ireland.     All  our  miseries  were  now  forgotten,  and 


AN  EVENTFUL    PASSAGE  HOME.  141 

there  was  a  general  air  of  joyful  expectation  mixed  with 
deep  thankfulness  that  we  had  heen  spared.  That 
afternoon  our  negro  passenger,  whom  we  had  hardly 
seen  during  the  passage,  made  his  appearance  on  deck. 
He  was  evidently  seeking  the  captain,  for,  as  soon  as 
he  caught  sight  of  him,  he  hastened  towards  him  and 
the  two  Avent  straight  into  the  captain's  state-room. 
From  thence  there  soon  issued  strange  noises  as  of  a 
foreigner  under  strong  excitement,  while  now  and  then 
the  deep  tones  of  the  skipper  chimed  in  as  if  he  were 
speaking  soothingly.  Suddenly  the  door  was  flung  open 
and  the  captain  called  for  the  mate.  That  officer 
responded  promptly,  but  did  not  succeed  in  hushing 
the  din.  On  the  contrary,  the  shrill  voice  of  the  black 
man  rose  higher  than  ever,  until  he  was  fairlj^  yelling 
with  fury.  The  mate  blew  his  whistle,  and,  when  the 
bo'sun  appeared  in  answer  to  it,  he  received  an  order  to 
bring  the  carpenter  with  a  pair  of  irons  and  three  or 
four  men.  The  reinforcements  man-handled  the  excited 
negro,  hauling  him  with  scant  ceremony  on  deck,  and 
bundling  him  forward  into  an  empty  cabin,  wherein 
they  locked  him  and  left  him  to  his  own  reflections. 
This  mysterious  aflair  caused  much  excitement  among 
both  passengers  and  crew,  but  it  was  not  until  after 
the  vessel  had  been  in  dock  some  days  that  any  ex- 
planation was  forthcoming.  It  appeared  that,  according 
to  Ids  story,  the  negro  had  been  First  Lord  of  the 
Treasury,  or  whatever  grandiloquent  title  they  had 
bestowed  upon  their  keeper  of  the  funds,  and,  seizing  a 
favourable  opportunity,  he  had  levanted  with  quite  a 
large  sum  (he  said  $100,000).  Getting  safely  on  board 
he  had  committed  his  loot  to  the  care  of  the  captain  and 
mate,  who,  however,  most  unaccountably  forgot  all  about 


142  THE  LOG    OF   A    SEA- WAIF. 

it  when  he  claimed  it  coming  up  Channel.  Finding  that 
he  could  by  no  means  recall  it  to  their  memories,  he 
went  temporarily  mad — insane  enough,  at  any  rate,  to 
institute  proceedings  against  them  for  its  recovery.  His 
story,  which  I  have  given  above  (with  the  exception  of 
the  way  in  which  he  obtained  his  wealth),  was  simply 
laughed  at,  and  he  was  fain  to  revert  to  his  original 
profession  of  scullion  or  some  such  occupation. 

The  passage  up  Channel  was  uneventful.  The  hate- 
ful yellow  flag  (quarantine)  was  hoisted  as  we  entered 
the  Mersey ;  but,  as  soon  as  the  Health  Officer  boarded 
us,  we  learned  that  there  would  be  no  delay  in  docking, 
yellow  fever  being  innocuous  in  our  favoured  land.  So 
the  dock  gates  swung  wide  and  we  passed  in  to  our 
berth,  the  vessel  being  in  two  hours  deserted  by  every- 
body except  the  night  watchman  and  me. 


(      143      ) 


CHAPTER    XII. 

ADRIFT    IN    LIVERPOOL    ONCE    MORE. 

That  night  I  slept  soundly,  heedless  of  to-morrow ;  but 
when  the  day  dawned  the  problem  of  what  I  was  to  do 
confronted  me,  and  a  very  awkward  question  it  was. 
For  I  -was  still  so  puny  in  size  and  so  delicate-looking 
that  I  knew  it  would  be  no  easy  matter  to  persuade 
any  one  to  employ  me.  Besides,  I  was  penniless.  I  had 
little  clothes  but  what  I  was  wearing,  and  I  felt  sure  no 
boarding-master  would  take  me  in  on  the  chance  of  my 
paying  him  out  of  my  advance-note  here.  My  only  hope 
was  that  I  might  be  allowed  to  work  by  the  ship,  at  a 
small  weekly  wage,  until  I  had  earned  enough  to  pay  for 
a  week's  board,  either  in  the  Sailors'  Home  or  some 
boarding-house  where  they  would  try  and  get  me  a  ship. 
That  hope  was  soon  dashed  when  the  chief  steward 
appeared.  With  unnecessary  gruffness,  as  I  thought, 
he  told  me  that  I  was  not  wanted,  and  the  sooner  I  got 
ashore  "out  of  it"  the  better.  Hadji  was  kinder.  He 
gave  me  a  cheerful  smile,  a  hearty  shake  of  the  hand, 
and  half  a  crown,  besides  wishing  me  luck.  In  a  few 
minutes  I  stood  outside  the  dock  gates  with  all  the  town 
before  me,  but  not  a  friend  or  even  an  acquaintance,  as 
far  as  I  knew,  within  its  limits.     Conscious  that  I  had 


144  THE   LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

no  time  to  lose,  I  wandered  about  the  docks  until  I  was 
weary,  speaking  to  every  likely  looking  officer  on  board  the 
various  ships  I  visited,  and  getting  nothing  but  plenty  of 
good-natured  chaff  as  well  as  outspoken  comments  upon 
my  childish  appearance.  Yes,  I  got  one  good  meal ;  so 
that  when  night  fell,  and  I  sought  a  great  heap  of  hay  in 
the  Cobourg  Dock  that  I  had  noted  as  a  promising  place 
to  spend  the  night,  my  precious  piece  of  silver  was  still 
unbroken.  I  slept  soundly,  though  none  too  warm, 
my  long  stay  in  the  tropics  having  thinned  my  blood. 
At  daylight  I  crept  stealthily  from  my  nest  and  re- 
commenced my  tramp,  but  it  was  fruitless.  Then  I 
remembered  the  wood-carver,  and  thought  I  would  look 
him  up  again.  But  there  was  another  name  over  the 
shop,  and  I  saw  that  another  business  was  being  carried 
on  there.  I  did  not  like  to  go  into  my  old  boarding- 
house  next  door,  feeling  sure  I  should  be  unwelcome 
with  only  two  shillings  and  sixpence  in  my  pocket  and 
no  prospects.  I  went  to  the  Sailors'  Home  and  told  my 
story,  but  they  refused  to  take  me  in — as  indeed  I  had 
fully  expected  they  would. 

For  the  next  week  I  roamed  about  those  wretched 
docks,  getting  more  and  more  discouraged  every  day, 
until,  at  last,  I  was  afraid  to  ask  for  a  berth  in  case  I  got 
a  cuff  as  well  as  a  refusal.  Finally,  when  I  had  been 
reduced  to  picking  scraps  out  of  the  gutter,  I  resolved  to 
go  to  the  workhouse.  How  such  an  idea  entered  my 
head  I  can't  imagine,  but  it  did,  and  seemed  feasible 
too.  So  off  I  started  up  Brownlow  Hill,  but  the  strains 
of  a  German  band  arrested  my  none  too  eager  progress, 
and,  all  hungry  as  I  was,  I  stayed  to  listen.  Perhaps  the 
music  cheered  me  up ;  at  any  rate,  while  listening,  I 
determined  to  go  to  my  old  boarding-mistress  and  offer 


ADRIFT  IN  LIVERPOOL    ONCE  MORE.  145 

my  services  to  her  in  return  for  a  shelter  and  such 
scraps   as    she    could    spare.      She    received    me    un- 
graciously enough  ;  hut  I  pleaded  hard,  having  learned 
well  the  hard  lesson  of  not  to  take  "  no"  for  an  answer 
without  a   struggle,   and   eventually  she   agreed.     The 
place  was  a  poor  kind  of  cookshop,  the  staples  of  which 
were  penny  howls  of  broth   and  tea  for  the  poverty- 
stricken  dock  labourers,  with  twopenny  plates  of  ]3otato- 
pie  for  the  better-off.     I  honestly  earned  my  keep,  and 
more ;  but  business  getting  slack,  she  told  me  plainly 
that  she  could  not  afford  to  keep  me  much  longer,  and 
she  would  allow  me  a  couple  of  hours  a  day  for  a  week 
to  look  for  a  ship,  at  the  end  of  which  time  I  must  shift 
for  myself  again.     I  was  not   altogether  sorry  at  this 
chance,   slender  though  it  was.     Every  day  I  hunted 
diligently  about  during  the  time  allotted  me,  and,  after 
four  days,  I  succeeded  in  getting  a  job  as  cabin-boy  on 
board   a  German  barque,  the  Greif  of  Rostock.      The 
captain   had   his   wife    and    little   daughter   on   board, 
neither  of  whom   spoke  a  word  of  English ;   but  the 
captain  said  he  had  just  discharged  an  English  bo}^ 
who  had  pleased  them  very  well,  and  whose  name  of 
"Dan"  I  was  in  future  to  answer  to.     I  took  up  my 
new  duties  with  zest,  doing  my  best,  not  only  to  give 
satisfaction  in  my  work,  but  to  master  the  (to  me)  awful 
difficulties   of  the    German   language.      For   a   time   I 
succeeded  admirably,  except  that  the  ladies  called  me 
*' schoufskopf "  (sheep's-head)  far  more  frequently  than 
Dan,  being  irritated,  I  suppose,  by  what  they  considered 
my  stupidity  in  not   being  able  to  understand   them. 
The  only  person  on  board  who  seemed  inclined  to  be 
hard  upon  me  was  the  mate,  a  huge  North  German, 
who  never  missed  an  opportunity  of  giving  me  a  blow, 

-^  L 


146  TEE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

apparently  by  way  of  keeping  bis  band  in.  Tberefore,  I 
exercised  all  tbe  ingenuity  I  possessed  in  keeping  out  of 
bis  way — no  easy  task — for,  as  soon  as  my  work  in  tbe 
cabin  was  finisbed,  I  was  always  called  on  deck  to  lend 
sucb  a  hand  as  I  was  able.  And  I  could  not  belp  noticing 
tbat,  in  spite  of  tbe  difficulty  I  bad  always  found  in 
getting  a  bertb,  wbenever  I  did  succeed  in  finding  one 
tbere  was  never  an}^  trouble  in  keeping  me  full}'  em- 
ployed. So  matters  progressed  in  fairly  even  fasbion 
for  tbree  weeks,  wbile  tbe  Grcif,  wbicb  lay  in  tbe 
Huskisson  Dock,  was  taking  in  a  general  cargo  for 
Demerara.  I  made  fail-  progress  witb  tbe  language,  and 
was  certainly  sometbing  of  a  favourite  witb  tbe  bo'sun, 
tbe  cook,  and  tbe  sailors.  I  began  to  bope  tbat  I  sbould 
succeed  at  last  in  making  myself  comfortable,  as  well  as 
necessary,  in  some  way,  to  tbe  comfort  of  otbers;  and  only 
my  dread  of  tbe  mate  gave  me  any  uneasiness.  But 
one  morning  tbe  cook  took  advantage  of  some  brief 
leisure  I  bad  to  get  me  to  cbop  some  firewood  for  bim. 
Gaily  I  started  to  obey  bim,  using  one  large  piece  for  a 
block,  and  was  balfway  tbrougb  my  task,  wbeu  tbe  axe 
struck  a  knot,  glanced  ofi',  and  entered  tbe  deck,  making 
an  ugly  mark.  Tbe  next  moment  I  received  a  blow 
under  tbe  ear  from  bebind  wbicb  stretcbed  me  bleeding 
and  senseless  on  tbe  deck.  Wben  I  came  to  I  felt  very 
sick ;  but  tbere  was  sucb  an  uproar  around  me  tbat  I 
speedily  forgot  my  own  trouble  in  my  anxiety  to  know 
wbat  was  tbe  matter.  Tbe  mate  stood,  wbite  as  cbalk, 
tbe  centre  of  an  angry  little  crowd  of  tbe  men,  one 
of  wbom,  a  tall,  fair  Swede,  was  fairly  raving  witb 
excitement,  and  seemed  by  bis  tbreatening  motions  to 
be  bard  put  to  it  to  keep  bis  bands  to  bimself. 
Gradually  it  dawned  upon  me  tbat  all  tbis  row   was 


ADRIFT  IN  LIVERPOOL    ONCE  MOBE.         147 

about  me.  The  mate  bad  struck  me  brutally  and 
unjustly  for  what  was  a  pure  accident,  and  his  cruelty 
had  actually  caused  the  whole  crew  to  resent  his  action. 
This  was  really  one  of  the  strangest  experiences  I  ever 
had.  I  have  been  beaten  innumerable  times  in  all  sorts 
of  vessels,  but  only  once  was  a  voice  ever  raised  on  my 
behalf  besides  this  occasion,  and  that  was  by  Joe,  the 
Yorkshireman,  against  my  uncle  in  my  first  ship.  That 
a  mixed  crew  of  Germans  and  Scandinavians,  on  board 
a  German  vessel,  should  raise  a  protest  against  the  ill- 
treatment  of  an  English  boy,  was  an  unheard-of  thing, 
especially  when  it  is  remembered  that  in  those  days 
brutality  to  boys  at  sea,  except  in  American  ships,  was 
the  almost  invariable  rule. 

I  was  more  frightened  at  the  consequences  of  the 
mate's  action  than  anything  else,  especially  as  it  looked 
as  if  there  would  be  a  regular  riot  directly.  Before, 
however,  any  blows  were  exchanged,  the  captain  arrived. 
His  presence  acted  like  magic.  He  made  no  noise,  but 
just  pushed  his  way  into  the  centre  of  the  disturbance, 
speaking  quietly  to  the  men,  who  at  once  dispersed  to 
their  several  duties.  Then  he  turned  to  me,  and  said, 
in  the  same  passionless  tone,  "  Ashore  mit  you.  If  I 
findt  you  hier  in  den  minutes  more,  I  schlings  you 
oferbordt."  I  did  not  linger.  In  less  than  five  minutes 
I  was  out  of  the  ship,  and  again  in  the  unenviable 
position  of  being  masterless.  There  was  a  change  in 
my  hitherto  persistent  bad  luck,  however.  Strolling 
dejectedly  round  the  dock,  I  came  to  the  very  biggest 
sailing-ship  I  had  ever  yet  seen.  When  I  had  done 
admiring  her  enormous  proportions,  my  attention  was 
caught  by  a  new  spar,  which  lay  upon  the  quay  nearly 
ready  for  going  aloft.    I  walked  round  it  wondering,  with 


148  TUE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

all  m}^  might,  whatever  kind  of  mast  it  could  be.    At  last 
I  stopped,  and,  according  to  a  lifelong  habit  of  mine, 
began  thinking  aloud.     "  T'ain't  a  schooner's  topmast, 
'cause  there's  three  sheaveholes  in  it ;  nor  j^et  a  l)arque's 
mizzen-topmast,  fur  the  same  reason.     N'ther  ain't  a 
ship  afloat  as  'ud  carry  sech  a  stick  fur  a  to'-gallanm'st, 
nor  3^et  fur  a  jibboom.     /  never  see  sech  a  spar  'n  my 
life."     '*  You  give  it  up,  then,  I  suppose  ?  "  said  a  grave 
voice  behind  me.     Turning  sharp  round  I    confronted 
a  tall,  distinguished-looking  gentleman,  who  \Yas  regard- 
ing me  with  an  amused  smile.     "Yes,  sir,"  I  said,  "1 
thought  I  knew  all  about  ships'  masts ;  but  I  can't  think 
what  this  one  can  be  for."     "  Well,"  he  replied,  "  I'll 
enlighten  you.     It's  my  ship's  foreto'-gallanmast,  and 
that  third  sheavehole  that  puzzled  you  so  much  is  for 
the  skys'le-halliards.     Now  do  you  see  ? "     I  thanked 
him  and  said  I  did ;  but  I  was  none  the  less  surprised 
that  any  ship  could  carry  such  a  mighty  spar  so  high 
up.     And  then,  by  a  happy  inspiration,  I  told  him  my 
story,  right  down  to  the  last  episode.     He  heard  me 
in  silence,  and,  as  soon  as  I  had  finished,  turned  and 
went  on  board,  telling  me  to  follow  him.    Gladly  enough 
I  obeyed,  until  we  reached  the  quarter-deck,  where  we 
found  the   shipkeeper.     Telling  him  to  find  me  some- 
thing to  do,  the  captain  then  turned  to  me,  saying,  "I 
shan't  be  able  to  take  you  to  sea  with  me,  for  all  our 
gear  is  so  heavy  that  we  never  carry  any  boys ;  but 
while  the  ship  is  in  Liverpool  you  may  stay  on  board 
doing  what  you  can,  and  I  will  pay  you  twelve  shillings 
a  week,  out  of  which  you  must  keep  yourself.     Now,  be 
a  good  boy,  and  I'll  see  what  I  can  do  for  you  when  we 
sail."     I  was  hard  put  to  it  to  express  my  gratitude ; 
but  he  cut  me  short  by  walking  away,  and  leaving  me 


ABEIFT  IN  LIVERPOOL    ONCE  MORE.  149 

to  realize  my  extraordinary  good  fortune.  As  soon  as 
he  was  gone,  I  hunted  up  the  shipkeeper,  who  had  taken 
himself  off  somewhere,  and  asked  him  for  a  job.  He 
was  an  easy-going  individual,  not  over  fond  of  work 
himself,  or  given  to  expecting  much  from  any  one  else. 
So  he  said,  "Oh,  I  can't  be  bothered  just  now.  You 
scull  round  a  bit  'n  have  a  look  at  the  ship,  'n  I'll  fine 
yer  sutthin  to  do  bimeby."  That  was  good  enough  for 
me.  For  the  next  two  or  three  hours  I  exhausted  all 
my  powers  of  admiration  over  this  magnificent  vessel. 
She  was  called  the  Joraivur  of  London,  and  built 
frigate-fashion,  with  imitation  quarter  galleries,  which 
added  to  her  already  great  appearance  of  size.  She 
belonged  to  a  school  that  has  now  departed,  whereof  the 
Su2)C)i),  Calcutta,  Lady  Jocelijn,  and  Hydaspes  (the  last 
two  converted  steamships),  were  conspicuous  examples. 
She  carried  thirty-two  A.B.'s  and  six  petty  officers,  so 
that  she  was  well  manned,  even  taking  her  great  size 
and  enormous  spars  into  account.  But  alas !  years 
after,  I  saw  her  bought  by  a  firm  of  Jewish  ship- 
knackers,  who  razeed  her  taunt  spars,  sold  the  yards 
off  her  mizzenmast,  turning  her  into  a  barque,  and 
finally  sent  her  to  sea  with  seven  A.B.'s  forrard.  No 
one  was  surprised  when  she  took  entire  charge  of  the 
poor  handful  of  men  before  she  got  clear  of  the  Channel. 
God  help  them !  they  could  hardly  get  her  yards  round, 
much  less  shorten  sail.  She  was  eventually  picked  up, 
almost  derelict,  and  towed  into  Falmouth,  where  the 
ill-used  crew  promptly  refused  to  do  any  more  in  her, 
and  were,  of  course,  clapped  in  gaol  therefor,  with  that 
steady  application  of  the  rights  of  owners  so  character- 
istic of  our  seaport  magistrates.  But  this  is  digression. 
"Knock-off"  time  came,  and  with  it  the  exodus  of 


150  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

all  the  motley  crowd  of  riggers,  painters,  and  stevedores 
who  had  been  busy  about  the  ship  all  day.  Seeing  them 
depart  homewards  I  remembered,  with  some  misgivings, 
that  I  too  could  only  be  considered  a  day-worker,  and 
might  also  be  required  to  clear  out,  but  whither  ?  So 
I  sought  the  shipkeeper,  and  timidly  approached  the 
question  whether  I  might  be  allowed  to  stay  on  board. 
I  found  him  very  glad  to  have  some  one  who  would 
relieve  him  of  the  necessity  of  keeping  so  close  to  the 
ship  as  he  had  been  doing.  He  at  once  gave  me  the 
free  run  of  the  cabin,  and  hastened  to  "clean  himself" 
preparatory  to  a  cruise  down  town.  I  busied  myself  in 
hunting  up  such  odds  and  ends  as  lay  about  the  state- 
rooms available  for  bedding,  and  before  long  had  rigged 
myself  quite  a  cosy  nook  near  the  glowing  stove,  which, 
as  the  weather  was  cold,  was  very  comforting.  My 
friend  having  departed,  I  was  left  quite  alone  on  board 
the  huge  vessel ;  but  this,  so  far  from  giving  me  any 
uneasiness,  was  just  in  my  line — I  was  more  than  con- 
tented. I  found  the  keys  of  the  pantry  and  store-room, 
where  my  eager  search  soon  discovered  plenty  of  cuddy 
bread  (biscuits),  half  a  chest  of  tea,  sugar,  oatmeal, 
sago,  and  arrowroot.  There  was  nothing  else  eatable 
or  drinkable.  This  find,  however,  gave  me  great  delight. 
I  felt  no  apprehensions  now  that  I  should  have  to  spend 
much  in  food — a  fear  which  had  somewhat  daunted  me 
before,  seeing  how  badly  I  wanted  to  save  all  my  wages 
to  get  myself  a  few  clothes  and  pay  for  a  week's  board 
in  the  Sailors'  Home  when  the  Jorawur  sailed.  Another 
expedition  to  the  galley  provided  me  with  a  saucepan, 
with  which  I  at  once  proceeded  to  make  myself  a  mighty 
bowl  of  arrowroot,  thinking,  in  my  ignorance,  that  not 
only  was  it  very  nice  to  eat,  but  that  it  must  be  most 


ADBIFT  IN  LIVERPOOL    ONCE  MORE.  151 

strengthening  as  well.  How  could  I  know  that  it  was 
only  starch  ?  A  couple  of  biscuits  and  the  half-gallon 
of  arrowroot  (plenty  of  sugar  in  it)  made  me  feel  at 
peace  with  all  the  world,  if  even  I  was  in  rather  an 
inflated  condition.  Fed  and  warmed,  with  a  good  roof 
over  my  head,  and  a  fairly  comfortable  bed  (if  it  icas 
composed  of  rags),  I  only  wanted  one  thing  more  to  be 
perfectly  happy.  And  even  that  was  forthcoming — a 
book.  "  Bleak  House  "  lay  in  one  of  the  pantry  drawers 
waiting  for  me,  I  felt.  Putting  the  lamp  handy  and 
replenishing  the  fire,  I  settled  down  luxuriously  into  my 
nest,  all  my  troubles  forgotten  in  present  bliss. 

When  the  shipkeeper  came  on  board  I  don't  know, 
for  when  I  awoke  it  was  morning — five  o'clock.  I  jumped 
up,  hustled  my  bed  out  of  sight,  and  lit  the  fire.  While 
it  was  burning  up  I  went  on  deck  for  a  wash,  returning 
sharp-set  to  a  good  breakfast  of  tea  and  biscuit,  after 
which  I  felt  ready  for  anything  that  might  come  along. 
By  the  look  of  the  shipkeeper  when  at  last  he  appeared, 
his  last  night's  excursion  had  been  anywhere  but  in  the 
paths  of  virtue.  But  his  amiability  was  unimpaired, 
and  it  was  in  quite  a  deprecatory  tone  that  he  requested 
me  to  "  pop  across  the  road  "  and  get  him  a  drop  of 
rum,  as  he  didn't  feel  very  well.  Whether  it  was  my 
alacrity  in  obeying  his  request,  or  the  speed  with  which 
I  afterwards  got  him  a  cup  of  tea,  I  don't  know,  but 
thenceforth  our  relations  were  of  the  pleasantest  kind. 
I  wished,  though,  that  he  hadn't  found  me  quite  such 
a  miserably  cold  job ;  for  that  forenoon  he  set  me  to 
clean  out  the  row  of  400-gallon  tanks  in  which  the 
sea-stock  of  fresh  water  was  carried,  my  slender  body 
being  easily  able  to  slip  in  through  the  "man-hole" — a 
feat  that  was  really  impossible  to  him.     Now,  some  of 


152  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

these  tanks  had  over  eighteen  inches  of  water  in  them  : 
all  had  enough  to  come  well  above  my  ankles.  As  it 
was  late  autumn  I  got  chilled  to  the  marrow,  for,  as 
I  must  needs  bale  all  the  water  into  buckets  and  pass  it 
up  to  him  througli  the  man-hole,  I  soon  got  wet  through. 
Then  I  had  to  scrub  and  sluice  vigorously  to  get  the 
thick  coating  of  rust  off,  in  which  process  I  became  very 
much  like  a  piece  of  rusty  old  iron  myself.  As  each 
tank  was  thoroughly  cleansed,  a  pail  of  limewash  was 
handed  in  to  me  with  a  big  brush,  and  I  gave  top, 
bottom,  and  sides  a  liberal  coating  of  it.  In  consequence 
of  this  occupation  my  appearance  was  filthy  beyond 
words  ;  but  I  did  not  mind  that,  until,  one  day,  having 
come  on  deck  for  something,  I  met  the  captain.  Looking 
at  me  with  an  expression  of  the  liveliest  disgust,  he  said, 
"Dirt}'  little  beast!"  This  cut  me  to  the  quick,  as 
being  both  unkind  as  well  as  utterly'  undeserved.  How- 
ever, I  made  no  defence.  One  of  the  earliest  lessons 
inculcated  on  board  ship  is  "  no  back  answers,"  and  the 
boy  of  gumption  loses  no  time  in  understanding  that 
the  less  he  says,  by  way  of  excuse,  the  better  for  his 
welfare.  Much  injustice  is  thus  suffered,  of  course,  but 
there  is  apparently  no  help  for  it.  From  that  da}- 
forward  I  carefully  avoided  the  captain,  lest  he  should 
discharge  me — a  fate  which  I  dreaded. 

The  peculiar  diet  beginning  to  pall,  even  upon  m}^ 
palate,  I  hit  upon  a  plan  which,  however  indefensible 
morally,  gave  me  then  no  qualms,  while  the  results 
were  extremel}-  gratif^'ing.  The  gang  of  painters  who 
were  re-decorating  the  cabin  brought  their  meals  with 
them,  and  I  supplied  them  with  tea  out  of  the  half- 
chest  in  the  storeroom,  receiving  in  return  a  portion  of 
their  food.     By  this  means  I  still  kept  my  wages  intact. 


ADRIFT  IN  LIVERPOOL    ONCE  MORE.  153 

The  only  money  I  spent  while  on  board  was  on  one 
unlucky  Saturday.  Fh*ed  by  the  description  of  a 
savoury  dumpling,  filled  with  bacon  and  kidney,  which 
I  read  in  the  late  steward's  cookery  book,  I  slipped 
ashore  and  bought  the  necessary  ingredients.  On 
Sunday  morning  I  tried  my  hand,  and,  having  succeeded 
in  making  the  dumpling,  dropped  it  clothless  into  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water,  made  up  a  roaring  fire 
under,  and  hungrily  awaited  the  result.  Eigidly  re- 
pressing an  eager  desire  to  peep  into  the  pot,  I  watched 
the  clock  until  the  specified  time  had  elapsed.  Then, 
my  fingers  trembling  with  excitement,  I  lifted  the  lid 
and  peered  through  the  dense  steam.  A  greyish  soup 
with  a  villainous  burnt  smell  greeted  my  sight;  my 
dumpling  had  melted.  Crying  with  vexation  and  dis- 
appointment, I  turned  the  mess  out  into  a  dish,  but  I 
couldn't  eat  it.  It  was  too  bad  even  for  me.  So  I  fell 
back  upon  sago,  and  made  no  more  experiments  in 
cookery. 

The  inevitable  day  drew  near  when  the  ship  was  to 
sail.  Her  cargo  of  salt  (for  Calcutta)  was  nearly  all  in, 
the  riggers  had  bent  the  sails,  and  a  smart  steward 
took  charge  of  the  cabin,  ejecting  me  summarily.  I 
took  refuge  in  the  forecastle  that  night,  and  the  next 
morning,  having  made  myself  as  presentable  as  I  could 
(I  was  a  queer-looking  little  scarecrow),  I  waylaid  the 
captain  and  besought  him  to  ship  me  for  the  voyage. 
Giving  me  a  half-laughing,  half-pitying  look,  he  said, 
"No,  my  boy,  there  is  no  dut}^  here  light  enough  for 
you  ;  I  cannot  take  you  to  sea  with  me.  But  I  will  take 
you  up  to  the  Home,  and  tell  them  to  get  you  a  ship. 
You  shan't  have  to  prowl  the  docks  again  if  I  can  help 
it."     I  thanked  him,  but  ventured  to  say  that  I  should 


154  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

have  liked  much  better  to  sail  in  such  a  splendid  ship 
as  the  Joraivur.  He  seemed  pleased,  but  shook  his 
head  decidedly,  and  in  a  few  minutes  we  were  ashore, 
making  for  the  Sailors'  Home.  Arriving  at  the  great 
building,  the  captain  immediately  made  for  the  office, 
and  sought  an  interview  with  the  superintendent.  As 
soon  as  that  gentleman  appeared  I  was  brought  forward, 
and  introduced  to  him,  with  a  brief  summary  of  my 
adventures  and  present  position.  My  good  friend  the 
captain  concluded  his  remarks  by  pacing  down  a  fort- 
night's board  for  me,  at  the  same  time  expressing  a 
hope  that  the}^  would  find  me  a  berth  as  speedily  as 
possible  in  some  outward-bound  ship,  so  that  I  should 
for  some  time  at  least  be  beyond  the  reach  of  homeless 
destitution.  The  superintendent  readily  promised  his 
aid,  and,  bidding  me  good-bye,  the  kindly  captain  re- 
turned to  his  duties,  happier,  I  hope,  for  the  knowledge 
that  he  had  done  me  a  really  good  turn,  for  which  it 
was  highly  improbable  I  could  ever  repay  him. 

I  was  at  once  handed  over  to  the  care  of  one  of  the 
stewards,  who  led  the  way  up  a  seemingly  interminable 
series  of  staircases  to  a  cubicle  on  the  fourth  floor. 
The  place  was  built  in  tiers  of  galleries,  running  right 
round  a  large  central  space  lighted  from  above,  and 
paved  at  the  bottom.  This  covered-in  quadrangle  was 
used  as  a  promenade,  smoking-room,  and  lounge  by  the 
inmates,  while  it  was,  of  course,  possible  to  take  in  a 
complete  view  of  the  whole  interior  from  any  one  of  the 
seven  galleries.  Before  we  arrived  at  my  berth,  the 
steward  was  in  possession  of  most  of  my  story,  and 
began  to  regard  me  with  more  friendly  interest  than  I 
looked  for,  seeing  that  no  "  tip  "  was  to  be  expected 
from  me.     He  seemed  surprised  when,  in  answer  to  his 


ADRIFT  IN  LIVERPOOL    ONCE  MORE.  155 

inquiry  for  my  "  dunnage,"  I  told  him  I  bad  none  but 
wbat  I  stood  in ;  and  at  once  promised  that  be  would 
see  wbat  be  could  do  by  way  of  beating  up  a  few  duds 
for  me — a  promise  be  faitbfully  kept.  Then  be  usbered 
me  into  tbe  snug  little  cbamber,  witb  its  clean  bed  and 
bandy  lockers,  and,  giving  me  a  key  of  it,  left  me  to  my 
own  devices. 


15G  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 


CHAPTER   XIII. 


THE  DAWN  OF  BETTEE  DAYS. 


x\t  last  I  felt  as  if  I  was  standing  on  firm  ground. 
Here,  a  solvent  boarder  in  this  great  institution,  with 
thirty-six  shillings  in  my  pocket,  of  which  no  one  knew 
but  myself,  and  with  the  superintendent  pledged  to  get 
me  a  ship,  there  did  seem  a  prospect  that  the  days  of 
my  waifhood  were  over  and  done  with.  I  looked  around 
me  at  the  comfort  and  cleanliness  of  my  little  room, 
I  thought  of  the  precarious  existence  I  had  been  suffer- 
ing, and  I  felt  very  thankful.  Outside  my  door  was  a 
row  of  big  basins,  well  furnished  with  soap,  jack  towels, 
and  abundance  of  water.  Off  went  my  clothes,  and 
I  fairly  revelled  in  a  good  wash.  I  had  barely  finished 
when  the  clangour  of  a  great  gong  startled  me.  I 
rushed  to  the  railings,  and  looked  over  to  see  a  general 
move  of  the  inmates  from  all  quarters  towards  one  goal. 
Instinct  informed  me  that  this  strange  noise  was  a 
summons  for  dinner;  so  I  hastened  to  join  the  throng, 
and  presently  found  myself  in  an  immense  dining-hall 
filled  with  long  tables,  at  which  a  steady  stream  of  men 
were  seating  themselves.  At  one  of  these  tables  I  took 
my  place,  in  joyful  anticipation  of  a  good  dinner,  when 


THE  DAWN   OF  BETTER   DAYS.  157 

suddenly  a  sharp  "Hi!  "  from  the  head  of  the  board 
arrested  my  attention.  It  was  the  steward  in  charge, 
who  stood  waiting  to  serve  out  the  food.  He  had  spied 
a  stranger.  As  soon  as  he  caught  my  eye,  he  said, 
"  "What  flat  are  you  on  ?  "  Now  the  barges  in  Liverpool 
are  known  as  "  flats,"  and,  jumping  at  the  conclusion 
that  I  was  suspected  of  being  a  bargee-boy,  I  replied, 
with  much  heat,  "I'm  not  on  any  flat;  I've  just  left 
a  two-thousand  ton  ship !  "  Surely  never  did  a  more 
feeble  unintentional  joke  meet  with  a  warmer  reception. 
My  neighbours  roared  with  delight,  and,  as  the  words 
were  repeated  from  table  to  table,  very  soon  the  whole 
vast  chamber  reverberated  with  merriment.  Utterly 
bewildered,  I  sat  speechless,  until  it  was  explained  to 
me  that  the  galleries  in  the  Home  were  called  "  flats" 
too.  They  were  lettered  for  convenience  of  distinction, 
and  the  steward's  query  was  in  order  to  assure  himself 
that  I  occupied  a  room  on  the  flat  under  his  charge, 
as,  otherwise,  I  had  no  right  at  his  table.  That  little 
matter  was  soon  cleared  up,  and  feasting  began,  Never 
in  my  life  had  I  sat  at  such  a  board.  Every  one  ate 
like  giants,  and  mountains  of  food  vanished,  washed 
down  by  huge  cans  of  ale,  served  out  liberally  by  the 
attendants.  I  am  ashamed  to  remember  how  I  ate ; 
but  the  blissful  thought  that  this  sort  of  thing  would 
be  a  regular  incident  of  each  day  heightened  my  enjoy- 
ment. The  meal  over,  diners  wandered  forth  again  in 
very  different  style  to  their  entrance  of  half  an  hour 
before.  Hardly  knowing  whither  I  went,  I  sauntered 
along  one  of  the  galleries,  when  suddenly  the  words, 
"  To  the  Library,"  caught  my  eye.  No  longer  un- 
decided, I  hurried  in  the  direction  indicated,  and  found 


158  TEE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

a  really  fine  room,  most  comfortably  furnished,  with 
roaring  fires  and  an  enormous  number  of  books.  There 
were  only  three  people  in  it ;  indeed,  it  was  never 
well  patronized.  1  found  a  volume  of  Captain  Cook's 
Travels,  coiled  myself  up  in  a  big  armchair,  and  passed 
at  once  into  another  world.  Thenceforth,  during  my 
stay,  that  peaceful  chamber  was  my  home.  Except  for 
a  little  exercise,  sleep,  and  meals,  I  scarcely  left  it,  and, 
long  ago  though  it  is,  I  can  vividly  remember  how 
entirely  happy  I  was.  Occasionally  I  heard,  through 
the  mighty  void  that  separated  me  from  the  outer 
world,  a  ringing  shout  of,  "Where's  that  shipwrecked 
boy?  Anybody  seen  that  shipwrecked  boy?"  as  the 
huge  doorkeeper,  standing  in  the  centre  of  the  quad- 
rangle below,  bellowed  for  me.  The  said  shipwrecked 
urchin  was  far  too  comfortable  to  desire  any  change  in 
his  present  circumstances,  and,  it  must  be  confessed, 
did  nothing  to  assist  the  authorities  in  their  efforts  to 
get  him  a  ship.  To  tell  the  truth,  whenever  I  must 
needs  go  out,  I  used  to  watch  my  opportunity  and 
evade  the  officials  downstairs.  1  had  tasted  the  sweets 
of  life  and  was  loth  to  return  to  the  bitter. 

During  my  seclusion  in  the  library,  however,  I 
made  the  acquaintance  of  several  officers  of  ships, 
through  whose  kindness  I  obtained  quite  a  respectable 
lot  of  clothes,  so  that  I  was  able  to  reserve  my  precious 
little  hoard  to  purchase  sea-stock  with  when  the  inevit- 
able day  came.  But,  in  the  meantime,  I  saw  as  little 
of  Liverpool  as  I  possibly  could.  Apart  from  my  love 
of  the  library  and  its  contents,  the  town  was  hateful  to 
me.  Its  streets  seemed  to  scowl  at  me,  and  every 
turning  reminded  me  of  misery.     But  one  day,  as  I  was 


THE  DAWN   OF  BETTER   DATS.  159 

darting  across  the  quadrangle  on  my  return  from  some 
errand,  a  long  arm  shot  out  from  behind  a  pillar  and 
grabbed  me.  Panting  with  my  run,  I  looked  up  and 
saw  the  form  of  the  doorkeeper  towering  over  me. 
"  Why,  where  ha'  you  been  stowed  away  all  this  time, 
you  young  rascal?"  he  said.  "Here  have  I  ben 
shoutin'  myself  hoarse  after  you,  an'  never  a  sight  of 
yer  could  I  get.  Come  along ! "  And  with  that  he 
marched  me  off  to  the  shipping-office  in  the  same 
building,  and  handed  me  over  to  one  of  the  clerks,  who 
immediately  brought  me  before  a  jolly-looking  captain 
who  was  just  engaging  his  crew.  AVhat  he  said  I  don't 
remember ;  but,  in  a  few  minutes,  I  had  signed  articles 
as  boy  at  twenty- five  shillings  per  month  on  board  the 
JVestcrn  Belle  of  Greenock,  bound  to  Bombay,  and 
sailing  two  days  after,  at  eight  in  the  morning,  from  the 
Alfred  Dock,  Seacombe.  I  received  a  month's  advance 
like  the  rest,  half  of  which  I  had  to  pay  for  a  week's 
board,  as  I  had  been  three  weeks  in  the  Home.  But 
with  my  well-kept  little  hoard  I  had  sufficient  to  buy 
my  oilskins,  bed,  hookpot,  pannikin  and  plate,  soap, 
matches,  knife,  etc.,  so  that  I  was  better  off,  in  those 
respects,  than  1  had  ever  been  before. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  appointed  day,  in 
company  with  several  others  of  the  crew  who  had  been 
lodging  at  the  Home,  I  was  escorted  across  the  Mersey 
by  the  official  belonging  to  the  institution,  whose 
business  it  was  to  see  us  safe  on  board.  Like  all  my 
companions,  I  had  not  the  slightest  idea  what  sort  of  a 
craft  I  was  going  in,  except  that  she  was  a  ship  of 
1225  tons  register.  This,  however,  is  one  of  the  most 
common  experiences  of  the  sailor.     Of  late  years  it  has 


160  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

become  more  the  practice  for  men  to  cruise  round  and 
choose  a  ship,  handing  their  discharges  to  the  mate  as 
a  sort  of  guarantee  that  they  will  be  shipped  when  she 
signs  articles.  But,  even  now,  thousands  of  men  take 
a  leap  in  the  dark,  often  finding  themselves  in  for  a 
most  unpleasant  experience,  which  a  little  forethought 
on  their  part  would  have  saved  them.  When  fore- 
thought is  a  characteristic  of  the  sailor,  his  lot  will 
rapidly  amend.  That,  however,  is  almost  too  much  to 
hope  for. 

We  soon  arrived  at  our  ship's  side,  finding  her  to  be 
an  old  American-built  soft-wood  ship,  fairly  comfortable 
looking,  and  with  a  house  on  deck  for  the  crew  instead 
of  the  villainous  den  beneath  the  top-gallant-forecastle, 
far  in  the  fore-part  of  the  ship,  which  is  the  lair  of 
seamen  in  most  English  ships.  I  was  told  off  to  the 
petty  officers'  quarters,  or  "  half  deck,"  a  fair-sized  apart- 
ment in  the  after  part  of  the  forward  deck-house,  with 
bunks  for  eight,  and  separated  from  the  men's  berth  by 
the  galley  and  carpenter's  shop.  There  was  no  time  to 
take  stock.  She  was  moving,  all  hands  being  on  board, 
and,  for  a  wonder,  not  so  drunk  as  usual.  She  was 
rapidly  warped  down  to  the  dock  gates,  where  one  of 
the  powerful  tugs,  for  which  Liverpool  has  long  been 
justly  famous,  awaited  her — the  Constitution.  The  hawser 
was  passed  and  secured,  the  ropes  which  held  us  to  the 
pier  cast  off,  and  away  we  went  down  the  river  at  a  great 
rate — our  voyage  was  begun.  Much  to  the  discomfiture 
of  our  fellows  a  large  ship,  the  Stornoicay,  came  rushing 
past  us,  bound  into  dock,  having  just  finished  the  long 
round  we  were  beginning.  The  sight  of  a  "  homeward 
bounder  "  is  always  a  depressing  one  for  Jack  who  is 


THE  DAWN   OF   BETTER    DAYS.  161 

just  starting  again.  And  it  is  usuall}^  made  harder  for 
him  by  the  jocular  remarks  of  the  fortunate  crew,  who 
shout  of  "  bright  pots  and  pannikins  and  clean  donkey's 
breakfasts "  (straw  beds),  usually  throwing  some  of 
their  rusty  tinware  overboard,  at  the  same  time,  to  give 
point  to  their  unkind  remarks. 

There  was  little  time  though  for  thought,  despondent 
or  otherwise.  We  were  rapidly  nearing  the  bar,  upon 
which  the  rising  wind  was  making  a  heavy  sea  get  up, 
and  our  jibboom  had  to  be  rigged  out.  What  this 
means  is,  I  am  afraid,  impossible  to  make  clear  to  a 
landsman.  The  amount  of  work  involved  in  getting  the 
long,  heavy  spar  into  position,  with  all  its  jungle  of 
standing  rigging,  which  looks  to  the  uninstructed  eye 
a  hopeless  mass  of  entanglement,  is  enormous.  When, 
too,  it  has  to  be  done  as  the  ship  is  dragged  relent- 
lessly through  a  heavy  head  sea,  as  was  now  the  case, 
the  difficulty  and  danger  is  certainly  doubled.  Yet  it 
must  be  done,  and  that  speedily,  for  none  of  the  upper 
spars  on  all  three  masts  are  secure  until  what  seamen 
call  the  "  head  gear  "  is  set  up,  to  say  nothing  of  the 
urgent  necessity  which  may,  at  any  moment,  arise  of 
setting  the  head  sails,  as  the  jibs  are  termed  collectively. 
So  rapidly  did  the  sea  rise,  and  so  powerful  was  the  tug, 
that  before  long  heavy  masses  of  water  began  to  come 
on  board,  and  several  ugly  lumps  came  over  the  fore- 
castle head,  half  drowning  the  unfortunate  men,  who,  in 
poor  physical  condition,  were  toiling  at  the  head  gear. 
Some  of  them  were,  of  course,  compelled  to  work  right 
over  the  bows,  where,  as  she  plunged  along,  the  boiling 
foam  now  and  then  surged  right  over  their  heads.  Under 
these  circumstances  some  disaster  was  inevitable.     It 

M 


162  TEE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

came.     Suddenl}-   I  saw  the  boatswain  leap  from  the 
forecastle-deck   aft,    a   distance   of  some   twenty   feet, 
yelling,  while  in  the  air,  "  Man  overboard  !  "    There  was 
hardly  a  minute's  delay  before  the  tug   stopped,  and 
everybody  gave  a  sigh  of  relief  to  see  that  the  unfortu- 
nate man  had  caught  one  of  the  lifebuoys  thrown  to 
him.     He  placed  his  hands  upon  the  edge  of  the  buoyant 
ring,  which  rose  edgeways  and  fell  over  his  bead,  making 
him  perfectly  safe.     But  he  was  so  eager  that  he  got 
his  arms  through,  and,  with  both  hands  on  the  buoy, 
tried   to  raise   himself  higher.     Unfortunately  he  suc- 
ceeded, and  immediately  overbalanced,  his  head  going 
down  while  his  legs  hung  over   the  sides  of  the  ring. 
Burdened  as  he  was  with  oilskins,  sea-boots,  and  much 
thick  clothing  underneath,  it  was  impossible  for  him  to 
regain  his  position,  and  when  the  boat  from  the  tug  picked 
him  up  he  was  quite  dead.    Steaming  back  alongside  of  us 
the  skipper  of  the  tug  reported  the  sad  fact,  suggesting 
that  he  might  as  well  take  the  body  back  to  Liverpool 
when  he  had  finished  towing  us.     This  was   of  course 
agreed  to,  and  the  towage  resumed.     But  no  sooner  had 
the  news  of  our  shipmate's  death  reached  us,  than  there 
was  a  rush  to  the  forecastle  by  our  crew,  to  divide  the 
dead    man's   belongings — a  piece   of  barbarism    quite 
uncommon  among  seamen.     They  made  such  a  clean 
sweep  of  everything,  that  when  the  captain  sent  to  have 
the  deceased  seaman's  effects  brought  aft,  all  that  was 
produced  would  hardly  have  filled  a  large  handkerchief, 
although  he  had  brought  two  great  bags  and  a  bundle 
on  board  with   him.     So  passed  from  among  us  poor 
Peter  Hill,   a    steady  middle-aged    seaman,   leaving   a 
widow  and  two  children  to  mourn  their  loss,  and  exist  as 


THE  DAWN   OF  BETTEB   DAYS.  163 

best  they  could  without   the  meagre  half  pay  he  had 
left  them. 

After  this  calamity  the  speed  of  the  tug  was  reduced 
until  the  jibboom  was  rigged  and  the  anchors  secured. 
Then  the  impatient  tug-skipper  tried  to  make  up  for 
lost  time.  Green  seas  rolled  over  the  bows  as  the  bluff 
old  ship  was  towed  through  the  ugly,  advancing  waves 
at  a  rate  quite  bej^ond  anything  she  could  have  done 
unaided.  She  strained  and  groaned  as  if  in  pain,  while 
the  severity  of  her  treatment  was  attested  by  a  long 
spell  at  the  pumps,  the  quantity  of  water  she  had  in  her 
giving  rise  to  many  ominous  mutterings  among  the 
crew.  At  last  the  Tuskar  was  reached,  the  topsails  and 
lower  staysails  were  set,  and  the  tug  let  go  of  us,  much 
to  our  relief,  as  the  motion  at  once  became  easier. 
Then  came  the  muster  and  picking  for  watches,  when 
the  grim  fact  became  apparent  that  we  were  grievously 
undermanned.  There  were  but  twelve  A.B.'s  and  one 
ordinary  seaman  forward,  four  tradesmen,  i.e.  bo'sun, 
carpenter,  sailmaker,  and  painter,  with  three  boys  in 
the  half-deck,  steward  and  cook.  Aft  were  the  captain 
and  two  officers.  Under  any  circumstances  this  would 
have  been  a  very  small  crew  for  a  ship  of  her  size  ;  but, 
to  make  matters  worse,  she  was  what  sailors  call  "  parish 
rigged,"  meaning  that  all  her  gear  was  of  the  cheapest 
— common  rope,  that  with  a  little  usage  grew  swollen 
and  clumsy,  often  requiring  the  strength  of  one  man  to 
pull  the  slack  of  it  through  the  wretched  "  Armstrong 
patent  "  blocks,  and  not  a  purchase  of  any  kind  to  assist 
labour  except  two  capstans.  Already  we  had  gotten  a 
taste  of  her  quality  in  setting  the  scanty  sail  she  now 
carried  ;  what  it  would  be,  later  on,  when  all  sail  came 


164  TEE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

to  be  made,  we  could  easily  anticipate.  The  crew  were, 
as  usual,  a  mixed  lot.  There  was  an  elderly  Yankee 
bo'sun's  mate  answering  to  the  name  of  Nat,  who,  in 
spite  of  his  fifty  j^ears,  was  one  of  the  best  men  on  board; 
a  smart  little  Yorkshireman,  very  tidy  and  quiet ;  and 
two  Liverpool-Irishmen — dirty,  slovenly,  and  obscene 
always  —  Flanagan  and  Mahoney.  They,  I  learned 
afterwards,  had  come  home  a  fortnight  before  from  the 
East  Indies  with  a  fairl}^  good  pay-day,  which  they  had 
never  seen  a  copper  of,  having  lain  in  one  continuous 
state  of  drunkenness  in  a  cellar,  from  the  evening  of 
their  arrival,  until  the  vampires  who  supplied  them  with 
liquor  had  somehow  obtained  a  claim  upon  all  their 
wages.  Then,  when  the  money  was  drawn,  the  two 
miserable  fools  were  flung  into  the  gutter,  sans  every- 
thing but  the  filthy  rags  on  their  backs.  A  jovial 
darkey  from  Mauritius,  with  a  face  whose  native  ugliness 
was  heightened  by  an  extraordinary  marking  from  small- 
pox, kept  all  hands  alive  with  his  incessant  fun.  He 
signed  as  Jean  Baptiste,  which  sacred  appellation  was 
immediately  anglicized  to  Johnny  the  Baptist,  nor  did 
he  ever  get  called  anything  else.  There  was  also  a 
Frenchman  from  St.  Nazaire,  who,  though  his  English 
was  hardly  intelligible,  had  sailed  in  our  country  ships 
so  long  that  he  had  lost  all  desire  for  anything  French. 
He  was  also  a  fine  seaman,  but  the  wrong  side  of  forty. 
A  taciturn  Dane,  tall  and  thin,  but  a  good  man  as  far 
as  his  strength  went,  was  also  of  our  company ;  and 
a  brawny,  hairy  Nova  Scotiaman,  John  Bradley,  able 
enough,  but  by  no  means  willing  to  exert  his  great 
strength.  Lastly,  of  those  whom  I  can  remember,  came 
Peter  Burn  and  Julius  Caesar.     When  the  first-named 


THE  DAWN   OF  BETTER    DAYS.  165 

signed  in  Liverpool,  he  looked  like  a  hale  old  sea-dog 
about  fifty,  worth  half  a  dozen  young,  unseasoned  men. 
Unfortunately  for  us,  he  had  come  out  of  the  experienced 
hands  of  Paddy  Finn,  a  well-known  boarding-master 
renowned  as  a  "faker-up"  of  worn-out  and  'long-shore 
sailors.  Eumour  had  it,  too,  that  he  had  recently 
married  a  young  woman,  who  had  eloped  with  several 
years'  savings,  leaving  him  without  any  prospect  but 
the  workhouse,  until  Paddy  Finn  took  him  in  hand  for 
the  sake  of  his  month's  advance.  Be  that  as  it  may,  it 
was  almost  impossible  for  any  one  to  recognize  in  the 
decrepit,  palsied  old  wreck  that  crawled  aft  to  muster, 
and  answered  to  the  name  of  Peter  Burn,  the  bluff, 
hearty  old  seaman  that  had  signed  on  so  boldly  two  or 
three  days  before.  Julius  Cassar  was  a  long,  cadaverous 
lad,  willing  and  good-natured,  hailing  from  Vermont, 
but  so  weak  and  inexperienced  that  you  could  hardly 
feel  him  on  a  rope.  The  other  three  men  have  entirely 
faded  from  my  memory. 

Of  the  petty  officers  with  whom  I  lived,  it  only  needs 
just  now  that  I  note  them  as  all  Scotch,  belonging,  like 
the  skipper  and  mate,  to  the  shores  of  the  Firth  of  Forth, 
with  the  exception  of  the  painter.  He  was  a  Yarmouth 
man,  really  an  A.B.,  but,  in  consequence  of  his  great 
ability  in  decorating,  mixing  paints,  etc.,  given  five 
shillings  a  month  extra,  with  a  bunk  in  the  half-deck. 
There  was  no  sea-sobriquet  for  him,  like  "Bo'sun," 
"  Chips,"  "  Sails,"  or  "  Doctor,"  so  he  was  called  by  his 
rightful  surname,  "Barber."  The  cook,  or  "doctor," 
was  a  grimy  little  Maltese,  not  quite  such  a  living  libel 
on  cookery  as  usual,  but  dirty  beyond  belief.  I  said 
there  were  three  boys  in  the  half-deck,  but  that  state- 


166  THE  LOa    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

ment  needs  (iualifj^ing.  The  eldest  of  the  trio  was  as 
good  a  man  as  any  on  board  the  ship,  and  deserves 
much  more  than  passing  notice.  He  had  been,  like 
mj'self,  a  London  arab,  although  never  homeless ;  for 
his  mother,  who  earned  a  scanty  living  by  selling  water- 
cresses,  always  managed  to  keep  a  corner  for  him  in  her 
one  room  up  a  Shoreditch  court.  But  Bill  was  far  too 
manly  to  be  a  burden  to  his  mother  a  day  longer  than 
he  could  help,  so,  after  trying  many  ways  of  earning  an 
honest  crust,  he  finally  managed  to  get  taken  on  board 
the  JJ^arsinte  training-ship,  whence  he  was  apprenticed 
in  the  IJ^estern  Belle  for  four  years.  He  was  now  in  his 
third  year  of  service,  a  sturdy,  reliable  young  fellow  of 
eighteen,  not  very  brilliant,  perhaps,  but  a  first-class 
seaman :  a  credit  to  himself  and  to  his  training.  The 
other  boy,  besides  myself,  was  a  keen  urchin  about  my 
own  age,  on  his  first  voyage,  of  respectable  parentage, 
and  with  a  good  outfit.  Whatever  his  previous  ex- 
perience had  been  I  don't  remember  ;  I  think  he  came 
straight  from  school.     Anj'how,  he  was  artful  enough  to 

early  earn  the  title  of  "  a  young  sailor,  but  a  d d 

old  soldier,"  which  concise  character  sums  up  all  that 
a  seaman  can  say  as  to  a  person's  ability  in  doing  as 
little  as  possible.  Captain  Smith,  our  chief,  was  a  jolly, 
easy-going  Scotchman  of  about  sixty,  always  good- 
tempered,  and  disinclined  to  worry  about  anything.  He 
had  his  wife  and  daughter  with  him,  thei  latter  a  plain 
young  lady  of  about  twenty-two.  Both  of  them  shared 
the  skipper's  good  qualities,  and  the  ship  was  certainly 
more  comfortable  for  their  presence.  Mr.  Edny,  the 
chief  mate,  was  a  splendid  specimen  of  manhood,  a 
Scotchman    about    thirty-five  years  of   age,   with  coal- 


THE  DAWN   OF  BETTER   DATS.  IGT 

black  hair  and  eyes.  He  was  the  most  hirsute  individual 
I  have  ever  seen,  a  shaggy  black  mane,  longer  and 
thicker  than  any  Newfoundland  dog's,  waving  all  over 
his  chest  and  back.  Mr.  Cottam,  the  second  mate,  was 
a  square-built,  undersized  man  from  the  Midlands,  the 
bane  of  my  existence,  but  a  prime  seaman  who  loved 
work  for  its  own  sake. 


168  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


DUE    SOUTH. 


Perhaps  an  undue  amount  of  space  lias  been  given  to 
particularizing  the  Western  Belle's  crew,  but  my  excuse 
must  be  that  this  was  my  first  big  ship  (the  steamer 
didn't  count),  as  well  as  my  first  long  voyage.  To  me 
it  was  the  commencement  of  a  new  era.  Hitherto  I 
had  not  been  long  enough  on  board  any  one  ship  to 
take  much  interest  in  either  her  or  her  crew.  The 
changes  had  been  so  numerous  and  rapid,  that  while  I 
was  certainly  accumulating  a  large  stock  of  varied 
experiences,  I  was  unable  to  put  them  to  much  practical 
use,  because  I  remained  so  small  and  weak.  But  now 
I  knew  that,  barring  accidents,  I  was  in  for  a  twelve- 
months'voyage ;  I  should  cross  the  •'line"  four  times 
round  the  Cape  twice,  and  return  a  regular  "  Sou'- 
Spainer,"  looking  down  from  a  lofty  height  of  superiority 
upon  other  sea-boys  who  had  never  sailed  to  the 
"  Suthard." 

When  the  watches  had  been  picked  I  found  myself 
under  the  second  mate,  whom  I  dismissed  rather  sum- 
marily at  the  close  of  the  last  chapter,  because  I  shall 
have  a  great  deal  to  say  about  him  later  on.     For  the 


DUE  SOUTH.  169 

present  it  suffices  to  note  that  my  evil  genius  must 
have  been  in  the  ascendant,  for  "  Jemmy  the  Scrubber," 
as  we  always  called  Mr.  Cottam  behind  his  back,  was  a 
regular  tyrant,  who  spared  nobody,  not  even  himself. 
The  men  of  his  watch  took  things  easily,  as  usual, 
knowing  full  well  that  he  was  unable  to  coerce  them ; 
but  I  was  helpless  in  his  hands,  and  he  did  not  fail  to 
let  me  know  the  fact.  There  was  some  compensation 
for  me  in  having  Bill  Smith,  the  sturdy  apprentice 
before  mentioned,  as  my  watch-mate,  for  he  was  both 
able  and  willing  to  lend  me  a  helping  hand  whenever 
possible,  although  of  course  he  could  not  shield  me 
from  the  amiable  weaknesses  of  Jemmy  the  Scrubber. 
Still,  his  friendship  was  very  valuable  to  me,  and  it  has 
endured  unto  this  day. 

At  the  outset  of  the  voyage  I  found,  that  if  I  had 
never  earned  my  pay  in  my  life  before,  I  was  going  to 
do  so  now.  When  there  was  one  hand  at  the  wheel 
and  one  on  the  look-out,  there  were  four  A.B.'s,  Bill  and 
myself,  available  to  make  or  shorten  sail.  Consequently 
it  became  the  practice  to  send  me  up  alone  to  loose 
whatever  sail  was  going  to  be  set  during  the  night,  and 
I  would  go  up  and  down  from  one  masthead  to  the 
other  while  the  men  did  the  hauling  on  deck.  Then 
when  the  job  was  finished  the  men  retired  to  their 
several  corners,  more  often  than  not  into  their  bunks  in 
the  fo'lk'sle,  leaving  me  to  coil  up  all  the  ropes  and 
then  return  to  my  post  aft  in  front  of  the  poop,  ready 
to  carry  Jemmy's  orders  when  he  gave  any.  She  was 
a  very  heavy-working  ship,  as  before  noted,  making  the 
ordinary  duties  of  trimming  sail  for  such  a  handful  of 
men  most  exhaustive ;  but,  in  addition  to  that,  the  food 


170  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

was  so  bad  that  it  reminded  me  strongly  of  the  Arabella. 
Yet  so  usual,  so  universal,  was  this  shameful  condition 
of  things,  that  there  was  no  more  than  the  ordinary 
quantity  of  "growling";  no  complaints  brought  aft; 
and  things  went  on  pretty  comfortabl}'.  Of  course  she 
leaked — "  made  a  good  drop  o'  water,"  as  sailors  say 
— but  still  in  fine  weather  the  pumps  would  "  suck  " 
in  ten  minutes  at  four-hour  intervals.  But  sail  she 
couldn't.  A  Eochester  barge  would  have  given  her  two 
miles  in  ten,  and  as  to  "turning  to  windward" — that 
is,  zig-zagging  against  a  contrary  wdnd — it  was  a  mere 
farce.  She  made  so  much  leeway  that  she  just  sailed 
to  and  fro  on  the  same  old  track  till  the  wind  freed. 
Therefore  it  was  a  weary  time  before  we  got  down  as  far 
as  that  dreaded  stretch  of  stormy  sea  known  to  seamen 
as  the  "  Bay,"  although  it  extends  many  a  league 
Atlantic-wards  from  the  Bay  of  Biscay.  Here  we  bat- 
tered about  for  several  days,  against  a  persistent  south- 
westerly wind  that  refused  to  let  us  get  south,  until  at 
last  it  freshened  into  a  bitter  gale,  accompanied  by  the 
ugly  cross  sea  that  gives  this  region  such  an  unenviable 
notoriety.  Under  two  lower  topsails  and  reefed  foresail 
we  wallowed  and  drifted,  watching  with  envious  gaze 
the  "flyers"  gliding  homew^ard  under  enormous  clouds 
of  canvas,  steady  and  dry,  while  we  were  just  like  a 
half -tide  rock,  swept  fore  and  aft  by  every  comber  that 
came  hissing  along.  Here  I  got  a  narrow  squeak  for 
my  life.  I  was  coiling  up  the  gear  in  the  waist  when 
she  lurched  heavily  to  w^indward,  just  as  a  green  mass 
of  water  lifted  itself  like  a  hill  on  that  side.  Before  she 
could  rise  to  it,  hundreds  of  tons  of  foaming  water 
rolled  on  board,  sweeping  me  blindly  off  my  feet   and 


DVE   SOUTH.  171 

out  over  the  lee  rail.  Clinging  desperately  to  the  rope 
I  held,  I  waited,  swollen  almost  to  bursting  with 
holding  my  breath,  but  quite  unconscious  of  the  fact 
that  I  was  overboard.  At  last  she  rolled  to  windward 
again,  and  I  was  swept  back  by  another  wave,  which 
flung  me  like  a  swab  into  the  tangle  of  gear  surrounding 
the  mainmast,  little  the  worse  for  my  perilous  journey. 
And  thus  she  behaved  all  that  night,  never  free  from  a 
roaring  mass  of  water  that  swept  fore  and  aft  con- 
tinually, leaving  not  a  dry  corner  anywhere.  Sundry 
noises  beneath  the  fore-hatch  warned  us  that  something 
heavy  among  the  stores  had  broken  adrift ;  but  it  was 
impossible  to  go  down  and  see,  not  only  for  fear  of  the 
water  getting  below,  but  because  of  the  accumulated  gas 
from  the  coal,  which,  unventilated  for  days,  would  only 
have  needed  a  spark  to  have  blown  the  ship  sky-high. 
Towards  morning,  however,  the  weather  fined  down. 
As  soon  as  possible  the  fore-hatch  was  taken  off,  and 
there  we  found  in  the  'tween  decks  a  mess  awful  to 
contemplate.  The  whole  of  our  sea-stock  of  salt  beef 
and  pork  in  tierces  had  broken  adrift,  together  with  two 
casks  of  Stockholm  tar,  and  had  been  hurled  backwards 
and  forwards  across  the  ship  until  every  barrel  was 
broken  in  pieces.  There  lay  the  big  joints  of  meat  like 
miniature  islands  in  a  sea  of  tar,  except  that,  with  every 
roll  of  the  ship,  they  swam  languidly  from  side  to  side 
in  the  black  flood.  All  hands  were  set  to  work  to  collect 
the  food — it  was  all  we  had — hoist  it  on  deck,  and 
secure  it  there  in  such  fashion  as  we  could.  Then  it 
was  scraped  clear  of  the  thickest  of  the  tar,  the  barrels 
were  set  up  again  and  refilled  with  the  filthy  stuff,  into 
the  midst  of  which  freshly-made  pickle  was  poured.     It 


172  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

was  not  good  food  before,  but  now,  completely  saturated 
with  tar,  it  was  nauseous  beyond  the  power  of  words  to 
describe.  Yet  it  was  eaten,  and  before  long  we  got  so 
used  to  the  flavour  that  it  passed  unnoticed.  This 
diversion  kept  all  hands  busy  for  tw^o  or  three  days, 
during  which  the  w^eather  was  kind  to  us,  and  wo 
gradually  stole  south,  until  the  steady  trade  took  hold 
of  us  and  helped  us  along  into  settled  fine  weather. 

By  this  time  all  hands  had  settled  down  into  their 
several  grooves,  determined  to  make  the  best  of  a  bad 
bargain.  One  thing  was  agreed  upon — that,  except  for 
her  short-handedness  and  starvation,  she  was  a  pretty 
comfortable  ship.  There  was  no  driving,  no  rows ; 
while  the  feminine  influence  aft  made  itself  felt  in  the 
general  freedom  from  bad  language  that  prevailed  on 
deck.  But  we  were  not  yet  low  enough  in  numbers, 
apparently.  The  old  man,  Peter  Burn,  who  shook  so 
much  that  he  was  never  allowed  aloft,  became  perfectly 
useless.  He  had  been  an  old  man-o'-war's  man,  living, 
whenever  possible,  a  life  of  riot  and  debauchery,  for 
which  he  was  now  called  upon  to  pay  the  penalty.  At 
a  time  of  life  when  many  men  are  not  long  past  their 
prime,  he  w'as  reduced  to  childishness — a  very  picture  of 
senile  decay.  His  body  too,  in  consequence,  I  suppose, 
of  the  foul  feeding,  became  a  horrible  sight  upon  the 
opening  of  more  than  forty  abscesses,  from  which, 
however,  he  seemed  to  feel  no  pain.  Strange  to  say, 
his  rough  shipmates,  who  of  course  had  to  make  good 
his  deficiency,  showed  no  resentment  at  the  serious 
addition  to  their  labours.  With  a  gentleness  and  care 
that  could  hardly  have  been  expected  of  them,  they 
endeavoured  to  make  the  ancient  mariner's   declining 


DUE   SOUTH.  173 

days  as  comfortable  as  the  circumstances  would  allow, 
and  I  am  sure  that  nowhere  could  the  old  fellow  have 
been  more  carefully  looked  after. 

She  was  an  unlucky  ship.  Her  slow  gait,  even  with 
favouring  winds,  was  something  to  wonder  at ;  but,  as  if 
even  that  were  not  delay  enough,  we  met  with  a  most 
abnormal  amount  of  calms  and  light  airs — hindrances 
that  would  have  made  some  skippers  I  have  known 
unbearable  to  live  with.  But  Captain  Smith  was  one  of 
a  thousand.  Nothing  seemed  to  ruffle  his  serene  good- 
humour.  It  must  have  been  infectious,  for  the  con- 
ditions of  food  and  work  were  so  bad  that  a  little  ugly 
temper  added  thereto  would  certainly  have  caused  a 
mutiny.  As  usual  I,  unluckiest  of  urchins,  was  about 
the  worst-off  person  on  board.  Jemmy  the  Scrubber, 
unable  to  imbue  the  rest  of  his  watch  with  his  own 
restless  activity,  gave  me  no  peace  night  or  day.  Woe 
betide  me,  if,  overcome  by  sleep  in  my  watch  on  deck  at 
night,  I  failed  to  hear  his  first  call.  With  a  bull's-eye 
lantern  in  one  hand,  and  a  piece  of  ratline  stuff  in  the 
other,  he  would  prowl  around  until  he  found  me,  and 
then — well,  I  was  wide-awake  enough  for  the  rest  of 
that  watch.  In  the  half-deck  I  was  treated  fairly  well, 
except  in  the  matter  of  food,  and  even  that  got  put  right 
in  time.  I  have  often  wondered  since  how  four  men  of 
good  standing,  like  our  petty  officers,  could  deliberately 
cheat  two  boys  out  of  their  scanty  share  of  the  only 
eatable  food  we  had ;  but  they  certainly  did.  Every 
other  day  except  Saturday  was  "duff"  day,  when  the 
modicum  of  flour  allowed  us  was  made  into  a  plain 
pudding  by  the  addition  of  yeast  and  fat.  The  portion 
due  to  each  made  a  decent-sized  plateful,  and,  with  a 


174  THE  LOO    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

spoonful  of  questionable  molasses,  furnished  the  best 
meals  we  got.  Now  the  duff  for  the  half-deck  was 
boiled  in  a  conical  bag,  and  turned  out  very  similar  in 
shape  and  size  to  a  sugar-loaf.  It  was  brought  into  the 
house  in  a  tin  pan  not  wide  enough  to  allow  it  to  lay 
flat,  so  it  stuck  up  diagonally.  The  sailmaker  always 
"whacked  it  out,"  marking  off  as  many  divisions  as 
there  were  candidates.  So  far  so  good.  Bat  when  he 
cut  off  his  portion,  instead  of  cutting  fair  across  the  duff, 
he  used  to  cut  straight  down,  thus  taking  off  half  the 
next  portion  as  well,  owing  to  the  diagonal  position  of 
the  duff.  Then  came  the  bo'sun,  who  of  course  followed 
suit,  and  the  others  likewise,  until  the  last  two  "whacks" 
falling  to  the  share  of  the  boys  was  really  only  the  size 
of  one.  For  a  long  time  this  hardship  was  endured  in 
silence,  until  one  day,  at  the  weekly  apportionment  of 
the  sugar,  much  the  same  sort  of  thing  took  place. 
Then  Bill  Smith  broke  out,  and  there  was  a  rare  to-do. 
Our  seniors  were  dreadfully  indignant  at  his  daring  to 
hint  at  the  possibility  of  their  being  unfair,  and,  for 
some  time,  I  feared  a  combined  assauH  upon  the  sturdy 
fellow.  All  their  tall  talk,  however,  only  served  to  stiffen 
his  back,  and,  in  the  result,  we  got  our  fair  share  of  what 
was  going. 

Hitherto  I  had  not  seen  any  deep-sea  fishing ;  so, 
when  one  day  a  school  of  bonito  came  leaping  round 
the  bows,  and  the  mate  went  out  on  the  jibboom  end 
with  a  line,  my  curiosity  was  at  fever-heat.  How  ever  I 
endm-ed  until  eight  bells  I  don't  know.  Once  or  twice 
the  wrath  of  Jemmy  was  kindled  against  me  for  in- 
attention, and  I  got  a  sharp  reminder  of  my  duties.  At 
last  eight  bells  struck.    I  had  the  dinner  in  the  house  in 


DUE  SOUTH.  175 

a  twinkling,  and  in  another  minute  was  rushing   out 
along  the  boom  to  where  the   mate  had  left  his  line 
while  he  went  in  to  "take  the  sun."     The  tackle  was 
simplicity  itself,  consisting  solely  of  a  stout  line  about 
the  thickness  of  blind-cord,  with  an  inch  hook  firmly- 
seized  to  its  end,  baited  with  a  shred  of  white  rag.     M}' 
fingers  trembled  so  that  I  could  hardly  loose  the  neat 
coil  the  mate  had  left,  for  below  me,  gambolling  in  the 
sparkling  foam  beaten  forward  from  the  bluff  bows,  were 
quite  a  large  number  of  splendid  fish,  although  they  did 
not  seem  nearly  as  large  as  they  were  in  reality.     At 
last  I  got  the  line  free,  and,  bestriding  the  boom-end  with 
my  legs  firmly  locked  between  the  jib  guys,  I  allowed 
the  lure  to  flutter  away  to  leeward,  jerking  it  gently  so 
as  to  imitate  a  leaping  squid  or  bewildered  flying-fish. 
Splash !    and  the  graceful  curve  of  mj-  line   suddenlj- 
changed  into  a  straight ;  I  had  hooked  one.    In  a  perfect 
frenzy  of  excitement  I  hauled  madly,  scarcely  daring  to 
look  below  where  my  prize  dangled,  his  w'eight  fairly 
cutting  my  hands.     At  last  I  had  him  in  my  arms,  but 
such  was  the  tremendous  vibration  of  his  massive  body 
that,  although  I  plunged  my  thumbs  through  his  gills,  I 
was  benumbed  from  head  to  heel.     All  feeling  left  me, 
and  my  head  was  beginning  to  swim,  when  I  bethought 
me  of  plunging  him  into  the  folds  of  the  jib,  which  was 
furled  on  the  boom.     With  a  last   flash   of  energy   I 
accomplished  this,  falling  across  the  quivering  carcase 
half  dead  myself.     But  before  he  was  quite  dead  I  had 
recovered,    and,    prouder   than   any   victorious   w^arrior 
returning  from  the  hard-won  field,  I  bore  him  inboard. 
I  was  received  in  the  half-deck  as  a  benefactor  to  my 
species,  for  had  I  not  provided  twenty  pounds  of  fresh 


176  THE  LOO    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

food.  How  welcome  my  catch  was  can  hardly  b( 
comprehended  by  those  who  have  never  known  what  i 
means  to  subsist  upon  beef  and  pork,  which  when  drj 
turns  white  and  hard  as  salt  itself,  with  the  flavour  o; 
tar  superadded,  and  that  for  many  weeks.  The  firsi 
flush  of  excitement  over,  attention  was  called  to  my 
gory  appearance.  I  had  not  noticed  it  before,  but  now 
I  found  that  I  was  literally  drenched  in  blood,  black-red 
from  the  chin  downwards.  "\Miat  of  that  ?  I  had  caught 
my  first  big  fish,  and  nothing  else  mattered.  Out  I  went 
again,  succeeding  in  a  few  minutes  in  hooking  another. 
But  one  of  my  watchmates  must  needs  come  interfering, 
and  take  it  away  from  me,  in  spite  of  my  protests.  I 
was  actually  bold  enough  to  tell  him  that  the  way  he 
was  carrying  it  was  unsafe — the  idea  of  me,  with  m.y  five 
minutes' experience,  dictating  to  an  old  ''  shellback"  like 
Bradley.  I  was  right,  though,  for,  when  half-way  in, 
the  fish  gave  a  convulsive  plunge  and  fell,  leaving  his 
gills  in  Bradley's  fist.  I  didn't  sa}'  anj'thing,  but,  like 
the  parrot,  I  did  some  tall  thinking.  All  the  fish  left  us 
instanter,  attracted  doubtless  by  the  blood  of  their 
mutilated  fellow ;  so,  sulkily  coiling  up  the  line,  I  came 
in.  There  was  a  plentiful  supper  at  four  bells,  and, 
though  I  should  now  pronounce  the  flesh  of  a  bonito  as 
drj'  and  tasteless,  then  it  was  sweeter  to  me  than  I 
could  express.  While  it  was  yet  in  my  mouth,  yea  !  ere 
it  was  chewed,  retribution  overtook  me.  I  heard  the 
watch  on  deck  setting  sail  forward,  and  more  con- 
versation ensuing  upon  the  performance  than  usual. 
Suddenly  a  shock-head  thrust  itself  into  the  half-deck. 
The  voice  of  Csesar  said  ominously,  "  Tom,  th'  mate 
wanse  yer ! "     With  a  thrill  of  dread  crawling  up  the 


DUE  SOUTH.  177 

roots  of  my  hair  I  obeyed,  following  the  messenger 
forrarcl.  There  stood  the  port  watch,  grouped  round 
the  mate,  gazing  upward  at  the  sail  they  had  just  been 
setting,  the  jib.  Well  they  might.  From  head  to  tack 
down  its  whole  length  ran  ghastly  streaks  and  i)atches 
of  gore,  a  sight  that  made  my  flesh  creep.  "  Did  ijou 
do  that  ? "  said  the  mate  in  an  awful  tone.  There 
was  no  need  for  any  answer  ;  my  guilt  was  manifest. 
Vengeance  lingered  not,  and,  in  a  few  minutes,  the 
inancs  of  my  first  fish  were  propitiated.  Lamely  I 
retired  to  complete  my  supper  with  what  appetite 
I  could  muster,  and  to  vow  that  the  next  fishing  I  did 
I  would  take  a  sack  out  with  me.  But  the  evidence  of 
my  offence  was  permanent,  surviving  the  bleaching  of 
sun,  rain,  and  spray  throughout  the  whole  of  the 
voyage.  My  waspish  little  tyrant,  the  second  mate, 
could  hardly  rope's-end  me  again  for  the  same  fault ; 
but  he  made  it  an  excuse  for  robbing  me  of  a  goodly 
portion  of  each  day-watch  below,  keeping  me  on  deck 
sorting  the  carpet-thrums  of  which  he  was  for  ever 
making  hearthrugs.  Oh,  how  I  did  hate  his  fancy- 
work  and  him  too.  But  I  dared  not  complain  or  refuse, 
although  at  night  I  was  always  getting  into  trouble  for 
going  to  sleep,  which  I  really  couldn't  help. 


/ 


178  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAJF. 


CHAPTER   XY. 


EIGHT    WEEKS     CALM. 


Leisurely  as  our  progress  had  been  hitherto,  we  had 
always  managed  to  make  some  Southmg  each  day.  But 
now  ensued  a  time  unique  in  all  my  experience.  What 
our  exact  position  was  I  do  not  know ;  but  I  fancy  it 
must  have  been  somewhere  near  the  Equator  in  the 
Atlantic.  When  the  faltering,  fitful  breezes  first  failed 
us,  a  long  succession  of  rain  deluges  set  in,  which  at 
first  were  most  heartily  welcome.  For,  like  many  other 
ships  of  her  class  in  those  days,  the  Western  Belle's 
store  of  water-tanks  contained  barely  enough  of  the 
precious  fluid  to  suffice  us  for  half  the  voyage,  even 
upon  the  regulation  allowance  of  three  quarts  per  man 
each  day.  Eain  was  dej)ended  uj)on  to  replenish  them 
in  time,  and  on  such  voyages,  of  course,  seldom  failed 
to  afford  a  bountiful  supply.  Now,  however,  it  fell  for 
whole  days  in  one  solid,  roaring  downpour  that,  in  spite 
of  the  many  openings  by  which  the  decks  were  drained, 
filled  them  so  that  it  was  possible  to  swim  from  poop 
to  forecastle  in  fresh  water.  Everybody  turned  out  all 
their  belongings  that  were  washable,  and  a  regular 
carnival  of  soap  and  water  took  place.     Then  the  ports 


EIGHT   WEEKS'    CALM.  179 

were  opened  and  the  decks  cleared  of  water.  It  still 
poured  over  the  front  of  the  poop  like  a  small  Niagara, 
and  from  thence,  as  being  the  cleanest,  we  refilled  all 
our  tanks.  Still  the  flood  came  down  without  a  break, 
until  the  incessant  roar  became  awe-inspiring.  Many 
of  the  crew  spoke  of  it  as  passing  all  their  experience, 
even  hinting  at  the  possibility  of  another  flood.  It  was 
so  heavy  that  the  experiment  was  successfully  tried  of 
scooping  up  drinkable  water  oft"  the  sea-surface,  which 
was  like  a  mill-pond  for  its  level,  although  all  a-foam 
with  the  falling  torrent.  The  ship  lay  as  nearly  motion- 
less as  it  is  possible  for  a  ship  to  be  out  in  mid-ocean. 
For  Coleridge's  simile  of  "A  painted  ship  upon  a 
painted  ocean "  is  only  a  poet's  licence,  and  grates 
upon  a  seaman  as  the  sole  picture  in  that  wonderful 
work  which  is  not  literally  true.  Admiral  Wharton's 
remark  that  "In  all  the  incalculable  mass  of  the  ocean 
not  one  particle  is  ever  absolutely  at  rest,"  may  strike 
most  people  as  strange ;  but  it  is  sober  truth,  and 
therefore  it  is  impossible  for  a  vessel  at  sea  ever  to  be 
perfectly  motionless. 

Gradually  the  massive  downpour  abated,  the  sun 
peeped  out,  and  the  sodden  decks  and  gear  dried  up. 
But  there  was  no  breath  of  wind.  And  as  Captain 
Smith  was  a  practical  man,  with  all  his  patience,  he 
decided  to  utilize  this  otherwise  barren  time  in  carrying 
out  a  scheme  he  had  purposed  leaving  for  some  long 
spell  of  waiting  in  Indian  harbours.  We  had  on  deck 
three  huge,  rough  spars — long  logs,  in  fact.  These 
were  loosed  fi'om  their  lashings  and  lifted  on  to  the 
gallows,  whereon  the  boats  usually  rested.  A  big  rip- 
saw was  produced — the  only  time  I  ever  saw  one  on 


180  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

board  ship — and  the  strange  spectacle  was  witnessed  of 
a  ship's  deck  being  turned  into  a  saw-pit,  sailors  into 
sawj'ers.  Thick  slabs  were  sawn  off  the  spars,  after 
which  the  carpenter,  and  a  couple  of  men  who  could 
handle  axe  and  adze,  set  to  work  to  fashion  them  into 
topsail-yards.  Meanwhile,  the  rest  of  the  hands  toiled 
like  beavers,  unbending  sails,  sending  down  yards,  and 
overhauling  standing  rigging,  until  the  old  ship  looked 
as  if  she  were  in  some  snug  dock-corner  being  dis- 
mantled. All  day  long  this  work  went  on,  no  one 
knowing  or  caring  whose  watch  on  deck  it  should  be, 
and  at  night  the  weary  workers  lay  around  promis- 
cuously, sleeping  away  the  hours  of  darkness  in  calm 
certainty  of  being  undisturbed.  This  curious  interlude 
in  an  ocean  voyage  developed  strange  faculties  in  our 
men.  The  iron  bands,  which  form  part  of  the  fittings 
of  a  ship's  yards,  were,  owing  to  the  skipper's  desire 
to  have  heavier  spars,  found  to  be  too  small.  No 
matter.  An  impromptu  forge  was  rigged  up  on  a  barrel 
filled  with  sand,  a  most  ingenious  bellows  was  made 
by  somebody,  and,  as  if  born  and  bred  in  a  smithy, 
the  bo'sun  and  two  hands  manipulated  that  iron- 
work in  such  workmanlike  fashion  that  it  answered 
its  purj)ose  as  well  as  if  turned  out  of  a  Blackwall 
foundry. 

For  many  days  this  work  went  on,  with  apparently 
no  more  notice  taken  of  its  strangeness  than  as  if  it 
were  the  normal  course  of  events.  But  gradually  the 
deathly  stillness  of  our  surroundings,  the  utter  absence 
of  the  faintest  air  of  wind,  or  sign  of  any  other  vessel 
in  a  similar  plight,  began  to  tell  upon  everybody's 
nerves.     Men  took  to  gathering  in  twos  and  threes  in 


EIGHT    WEEKS'    CALM.  181 

the  evenings  to  recount  their  experiences  of  lengthened 
calms,  and  the  yarns  they  had  heard  of  bygone 
tragedies  connected  with  ships  that  had  strayed  into 
windless  seas.  Even  the  busy  working-hours  could  not 
prevent  the  men  from  gazing  uneasily  over  the  side 
where  the  familiar,  smiling  face  of  the  sea  was  under- 
going a  mysterious  change.  There  is  about  the  deep 
sea,  even  in  the  hottest  weather,  a  delicious  atmosphere 
of  cool  cleanliness,  a  searching  purity,  such  as  the  earth 
can  never  yield,  giving  one  the  fixed  idea  that  to  this 
vast,  unpollutable  limpidity  the  nations  owe  their  health. 
In  some  dim  fashion  this  thought  is  present  with  all 
seafarers,  however  dense  and  unnoticing  they  may  be. 
Therefore,  when  that  familiar  freshness  was  found  to 
be  giving  place  to  a  stale,  stagnant  greasiness  to  which 
a  mawkish,  uninvigorating  atmosphere  clung,  what 
Avonder  that  uneasiness — all  the  more  difficult  to  bear 
quietly  because  undefinable — became  generally  manifest. 
Adding  to  the  sense  of  eerieness,  was  the  fact  that  old 
Peter  was  failing  fast.  I  have  already  mentioned  how 
willingly  his  share  of  the  common  burden  was  borne  by 
his  shipmates,  and  how  loyally  they  tended  him,  even 
though  such  service  as  he  needed  could  not  be  spoken 
of  without  offence.  But  now  his  mind  had  completely 
gone.  He  lived  in  some  misty  past,  about  which  he 
babbled  unceasingly.  Often,  in  the  still  evenings,  all 
hands  would  gather  round  him,  listening,  in  joerfect 
silence,  to  his  disjointed  reminiscences  of  desperate  deeds 
in  the  way  of  duty,  of  long-drawn-out  debaucheries  in 
filthy  rookeries  of  home  ports,  as  well  as  the  well-known 
hells  at  Hong  Kong,  Calcutta,  or  Callao.  They  were 
strange   scenes,   those   dog-watch   gatherings,   nothing 


182  THE  LOO    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

distinctly  visible  but  the  red  glow  of  the  pijoes — except 
when  the  sudden  glare  of  a  match,  struck  to  light  fresh 
tobacco,  shed  a  momentary  gleam  over  the  group  of 
haggard,  bearded  faces,  each  beclouded  with  an  unwonted 
shadow.  In  the  midst,  a  placid  stream  of  sound,  Peter's 
voice  prattled  on,  its  lurid  language  in  the  strangest 
contrast  to  the  gentleness  of  his  speech.  Still  the  days 
dragged  on  and  the  faces  grew  longer.  All  the  refitting 
was  finished,  and  only  the  ordinary  routine  of  ship-life 
was  left  to  be  carried  on.  Happily  those  duties  are  always, 
in  the  hands  of  capable  officers,  sufficiently  onerous  to 
prevent  time  ever  hanging  heavily.  One  of  the  strangest 
of  all  the  strange  notions  current  ashore  about  sea-life  is 
that  sailors  have  nothing  to  do  but  watch  the  ship  go  along, 
except  during  stormy  weather.  One  would  have  thought 
that  the  never-ending,  ever-beginning  round  of  work 
in  a  house  that  is  properly  kept  would  have  taught 
all  landsmen  and  women  that  the  great  complicated 
machine  called  a  ship  would  demand  at  least  equal 
labours  to  keep  it  fit  and  in  working  order.  But  "  watch 
and  watch  "  w^as  now  restored,  which,  of  course,  threw 
a  great  deal  of  additional  time  upon  the  men's  hands, 
since  they  could  still  sleep  through  the  night,  if  they 
chose,  without  fear  of  being  disturbed.  So  for  hours, 
when  unemploj-ed,  men  took  to  hanging  over  the  rail, 
watching,  with  an  unnatural  curiosity,  the  myriads  of 
strange  creatures  that,  lured  from  their  silent  haunts 
in  the  gloomy  middle-depths  of  the  ocean  by  the  long- 
enduring  stillness  above,  came  crawling  about,  blinking 
glassily  with  dead-looking  eyes  at  the  unfamiliar  light. 
Truly  it  was  an  uncanu}'  sight.  Not  o\\\j  fish  of  bizarre 
shape  abounded,  but  vast  numbers  of  great  medusae — 


EIGHT    WEEKS'    CALM.  183 

semi-transparent  simulacra  of  all  the  hideous  things 
that  ever  haunted  a  maniac's  dream — crawled  greasily 
about  us,  befouling  the  once  clear  blue  of  the  sea,  and 
coating  its  sleek  surface  with  stagnant  slime.  And, 
deeper  down,  mighty  shadows  passed  sluggishly  to  and 
fro,  filling  the  gazers  with  wordless  terror  as  the  days 
crept  wearily  away  and  those  formless  apparitions 
gradually  chose  higher  levels.  Overhead  the  sweet 
fathomless  azure  of  the  sky  paled  as  if  in  sympathy 
with  the  silent  sea.  Cloudless,  indeed,  but  overspread 
with  a  filmy  veil  of  strange  mist,  that,  while  it  robbed 
the  sun  of  its  glare,  seemed  to  enclose  us  within  a  dome 
of  heat,  unventilated  and  stale.  When  night  fell, 
instead  of  cool  refreshment — such  as  comes,  even  in 
tropical  calms,  after  sunset  at  all  ordinary  times — 
there  arose  a  foul  odour  of  decaying  things  that  clung 
clammily  to  the  palate  like  a  miasma.  The  densely 
populated  ocean  beneath  palpitated  with  pale  fire,  the 
gleaming  of  putrescence.  Instead  of  the  usual  brisk 
movement  seen  among  the  glowing  denizens  of  the  deep, 
everything  crawled  languidly,  as  if  infected  with  some 
universal  pestilence.  Moon  and  stars  lost  their  strong 
silver  glow,  and  were  no  longer  reflected  in  the  smooth- 
ness beneath  as  if  shining  in  another  heaven.  And  at 
moonrise,  when  the  fantastic  mist-wreaths  writhed 
about  the  horizon,  the  broad  red  disc  of  the  moon 
would  be  distorted  into  many  uncouth  shapes,  or 
patterns  of  strange  design  were  drawn  across  her  paling 
surface. 

At  last,  one  night,  when  old  Peter  was  holding  his 
usual  levee,  he  suddenly  raised  his  voice,  and  authori- 
tatively demanded   that   his  auditors  should  bear  him 


184  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

on  to  the  forecastle  head.  They  instantly  obeyed, 
lifting  him  tenderly  upon  his  mattress,  and  laying  him 
gently  by  the  side  of  the  capstan.  Then  all  hands 
gathered  round  him  in  the  darkness,  only  the  glow  of 
the  pipes  fitfully  illuminating  the  rugged  countenances. 
Slowly  the  moon  rose,  but  sent  no  silvery  pathway 
across  the  sea,  until  suddenly,  as  if  with  a  great  effort, 
she  broke  through  the  hampering  mist-wreaths  that 
seemed  to  clog  her  upward  way.  A  pure,  pale  beam 
shot  right  athwart  our  vessel,  lighting  up  the  little 
group  of  watchers  on  the  forecastle,  and  lingering  as  if 
lovingly  upon  the  withered,  weather-scarred  face  of  our 
ancient  shipmate.  As  it  did.  so  he  smiled — a  patient, 
happy  smile — his  lips  unclosed,  and,  with  a  sigh  of  relief 
like  a  weary  child,  he  died. 

Breaking  the  steadfast  silence  came  the  mate's 
mellow  cry,  "  Square  the  mainyard  !  "  As  the  men  rose 
to  obey,  a  gentle  breath,  welcome  as  the  first  thrill  of 
returning  health,  kissed  the  tanned  faces.  Slowly  the 
great  yards  swung  round,  a  x^leasant  murmuring  as  of 
a  mountain  rivulet  arose  from  the  bows,  and  the  long 
calm  was  over.  In  quiet  attendance  upon  the  dead 
came  the  sailmaker,  with  a  roll  of  worn  canvas  under 
his  arm  in  which  the  poor,  shrivelled  remains  were 
reverently  wrapped  and  neatly  sewn  up.  A  big  lump 
of  coal  was  found  and  secured  to  the  feet,  and  the  long 
parcel  was  borne  gently  aft  to  the  gangway.  There  in 
the  moonlight  we  all  gathered,  while  the  skipper,  with 
faltering,  unaccustomed  voice,  read  the  stately  words  of 
the  Burial  Service,  all  hands  standing  like  statues  as 
they  listened  to  what  all  admit  to  be  one  of  the  most 
solemn,  as  well   as  majestic   selections   known   in  our 


EIGHT   WEEKS'    CALM.  185 

splendid  language.  Suddenly  there  was  a  pause  ;  the 
skipper  raised  his  hand,  and  those  who  supported  the 
plank  on  which  the  worn-out  tabernacle  of  old  Peter  lay, 
gently  raised  its  inner  end.  There  was  a  subdued 
s-s-s-h  as  the  white  fardel  sHd  slowly  seaward,  followed 
by  a  sullen  plunge.  All  rushed  to  the  side,  where  an 
ascending  column  of  green  light  marked  the  descent 
into  those  calm  profundities  of  our  dead.  An  almost 
inaudible  sigh  of  relief  escaped  from  every  lip,  as  if  a 
well-nigh  intolerable  burden  had  been  removed.  Un- 
doubtedly that  was  the  predominant  feeling,  intensified 
by  the  fact  that  a  sweet  breeze  was  now  blowing 
steadily.  In  the  blue  dome  above,  the  moon  and  her 
attendant  stars  were  shining  with  their  full  splendour, 
and  from  the  now  sparkling  face  of  the  surrounding  sea 
the  sickl}'  mist  was  rolled  quite  awa}'. 

Thenceforward,  although  our  jDrogress  was  wretchedly 
slow,  of  course,  we  were  little  troubled  by  calms.  But 
our  tribulations  were  not  yet  all  over.  Barber,  the 
painter  A.B.,  was  taken  ill ;  so  ill  as  to  be  quite  useless, 
nor  did  he  ever  again  that  voyage  recover  sufficiently 
to  resume  his  place  as  an  active  member  of  the  crew. 
And  other  men  were  grievously  tried  by  scurv}^  which, 
though  in  a  mild  form,  was  painful  and  weakening. 
How  it  was  that  they  were  no  worse,  I  cannot  think,  for 
the  food  was  bad  enough  truly  for  the  development 
of  that  malignant  disease  in  its  worst  form.  But, 
somehow,  we  worried  along  in  dogged  fashion,  every 
one  showing  rare  patience  under  their  unmerited 
sufferings. 

And  so,  in  laborious  fashion,  we  crept  southward 
and  round  the  Cape  without    any  bad  weather  worth 


186  TEE  LOO    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

mentioning,  until  well  to  the  eastward  of  that  justly 
dreaded  point.  Then  one  night  wo  had  a  narrow  escape 
from  serious  disaster.  It  was  our  (the  second  mate's) 
watch  on  deck  from  eight  to  midnight.  We  were  jog- 
ging along  before  a  light  south-westerly  breeze,  at  about 
four  knots,  the  weather  being  singularly  fine  for  those 
latitudes.  Down  in  the  cabin  the  skipper,  his  wife  and 
daughter,  and  the  mate  were  playing  cards,  while  the 
second  mate,  with  a  carelessness  most  unusual  with 
him,  was  hanging  over  the  open  scuttle,  absorbed  in 
watching  the  game.  Eees,  the  old  Frenchman  with 
a  Welsh  name,  was  on  the  look-out,  and  I  heard  him 
muttering  and  grumbling  because  the  officer  of  the 
watch  was  oblivious  of  the  fact  that  an  ominous- 
looking  cloud  w'as  rising  in  the  north-east,  or  almost 
right  ahead.  Presently  from  its  black  bosom  faint 
gleams  of  lightning  showed  themselves,  while  the 
subdued  murmur  of  the  breeze  we  had  became  hushed 
in  an  unnatural  quiet.  With  a  quickness  that  seemed 
miraculous,  the  threatening  cloud  ahead  overspread 
the  sky,  and  still  the  second  mate  did  not  realize 
what  was  coming.  As  all  sail  was  set,  the  position 
began  to  look  so  threatening  that  all  the  watch 
took  the  alarm,  and  gathered  in  the  waist,  ready  for 
the  sudden  emergency  imminent.  Presently  the  wind 
dropped  dead,  its  sudden  failure  arousing  the  supine 
oflQcer,  who,  lifting  his  head,  took  in  the  situation  at  a 
glance.  But  before  he  could  issue  an  order,  there  came 
a  smart  patter  of  rain,  followed  immediately  by  a  roar 
as  the  north-east  wind,  like  a  savage  beast,  leapt  upon 
us,  taking  us  flat  aback.  Then  there  was  a  hubbub. 
Up  rushed  the  skipper  and  mate,  shouting  for  all  hands. 


EIGHT   WEEKS'    CALM.  187 

Everything  was  let  go  at  once;  but  the  sails,  jammed 
backward  against  tlie  masts,  refused  to  allow  the  yards 
to  come  down.  The  ship  began  to  drive  astern  most 
dangerously,  nor  could  she  be  got  round  b}'  any  means. 
Presentl}'  she  dipped  her  stern  right  under,  taking  a 
sea  in  over  the  taffrail  that  filled  the  decks  fore  and 
aft.  It  was  now  a  question  of  minutes  with  us.  If  she 
could  not  be  got  round  she  would  certainly  go  down 
stern  foremost,  for  again  and  again  she  drove  her  broad 
stern  under  the  rising  sea  as  the  now  furious  gale 
hurled  her  backwards.  The  feeble  efforts  of  the  crew 
seemed  utterly  unavailing  against  the  mighty  force  of 
this  sudden  tempest.  But,  providentially,  a  huge  sea 
caught  her  on  one  bow,  flinging  her  head  off  far  enough 
for  the  wind  to  grip  the  head  sails.  Round  she  spun 
upon  her  heel  like  a  top,  and  in  another  minute  the 
shreds  of  the  rending  sails  were  thundering  above  our 
heads  as  they  flew  to  fragments.  In  an  indescribable 
uproar,  wherein  the  howling  of  the  gale,  the  reverbera- 
tions of  the  thunder,  and  the  crash  of  our  yards  were 
all  mingled,  the  ill-used  vessel  sped  away  before  the 
wind  as  if  fleeing  for  her  life.  An  almost  continual 
glare  of  lightning  shed  an  unearthly  light  over  all,  by 
which  the  havoc  that  was  being  wrought  was  plainl}-  to 
be  seen.  How  that  night's  work  was  ever  accomplished 
I  have  no  idea.  But  when  morning  dawned  we  were 
fore-reaching  under  the  three  lower  topsails  and  fore  top- 
mast staysail,  the  fluttering  rags  of  what  remained  of 
our  lighter  sails  being  secured  in  some  haphazard  sort 
of  fashion  to  the  yards.  We  had  escaped  the  doom  of 
many  a  fine  ship,  whose  crew  have  paid  the  penalty 
of  carelessness  with  their  lives.     It  was  long,  however, 


188  THE  LOO    OF   A    SEA-WAIF. 

before  we  overtook  the  labour  which  those  few  hours 
involved  us  in.  For  many  days  we  jogged  along  under 
easy  sail,  getting  farther  and  farther  to  the  northward 
every  day,  happily  for  us,  and  so  putting  a  greater 
distance  between  us  and  bad  weather. 


(     189     ) 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

UP    THE    INDIAN    OCEAN    TO    BOilBAY. 

At  certain  seasons  of  the  year  the  minds  of  mariners 
navigating  the  Indian  Ocean  are  always,  more  or  less, 
upon  the  tension  of  expectancy  concerning  the  possibility 
of  their  encountering  one  of  those  tremendous  meteors 
known  as  cyclones.  A  keen  watch  is  continually  kept 
upon  the  mercury  in  the  barometer  for  any  deviation 
from  its  normal  ebb  and  flow,  which  occurs  with  the 
greatest  regularity  in  the  tropics  during  settled  weather. 
For  these  truly  awful  storms  are  so  justly  dreaded,  by 
even  the  bravest  seaman,  that  no  danger  of  navigation 
claims  more  attention.  The  possibility  of  meeting,  or 
being  overtaken  by  one,  bulks  largely  in  the  dog-watch 
discussions  among  the  foremast  hands,  and  he  who  has 
successfully  braved  an  encounter  with  a  cyclone,  speaks 
with  an  authority  denied  to  his  fellows  who  have  never 
had  such  a  painful  experience.  Even  to  me,  juvenile 
as  I  was,  an  almost  deferential  hearing  was  accorded 
when  I  spoke  of  my  Havana  experience — the  hurricane 
of  the  West  Indies,  the  typhoon  of  the  China  seas,  and 
the  cyclone  of  the  Indian  Ocean  being  only  different 
names   for   the    same   mighty  atmospheric  convulsion. 


190  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

Happily,  our  leisurely  progress  northward  was  un- 
attended by  any  such  deeply  perilous  adventure  as  the 
encounter  with  a  cyclone  would  have  been.  Doubts 
were  freely  expressed  as  to  the  probability  of  the  Westcni 
Belle  weathering  one  at  any  time,  but  especially  under 
our  present  short-handed  conditions.  Every  day,  there- 
fore, that  passed  seeing  us  nearer  port  was  noted  with 
delight,  as  lessening  our  chances  of  utter  extermination. 
And  when  at  last  we  passed  the  latitude  of  Cape 
Comorin  and  entered  the  Arabian  Sea,  there  was  a 
distinct  lightening  of  faces  and  a  tendency  to  make 
little  of  the  weary  passage  now  gradually  nearing  its 
end.  We  did  not  see  a  vessel  of  any  description,  during 
our  journey  from  the  Cape,  until  within  two  hundred 
miles  of  Bombay,  neither  did  we  sight  any  land.  But 
one  morning,  to  my  amazement,  I  saw  a  vessel  nearing 
us  unlike  any  I  had  ever  seen  before — except  in  pictures. 
She  had  a  hull  like  the  half  of  an  egg  cut  lengthways, 
and  was  propelled  by  an  enormous  white  sail  of  lateen 
shape,  or  almost  like  one  of  our  jibs.  She  could  not 
have  been  more  than  ten  or  fifteen  tons  capacity,  and 
how  she  stood  up  under  such  an  immense  spread  of 
sail  was  a  mystery.  She  came  flying  along  like  a  huge 
sea-bird,  shooting  up  almost  in  the  wind's  eye,  and 
presently,  graceful  as  an  albatross,  rounded-to  under 
our  stern  and  "  spilled  "  her  sail.  Seated  in  the  after 
part  of  this  queer  craft  were  two  or  three  dignified- 
looking  men  in  white  raiment,  with  the  peculiar  stifl* 
headgear  affected  by  Parsees.  One  of  the  black,  unclad 
natives  forming  her  crew  hooked  on  to  our  fore-chains, 
and,  with  an  agility  I  should  have  hardly  believed 
possible,  one  of  the  white-robed  visitors  seized  a  rope 


UP    TEE  INDIAN   OCEAN   TO    BOMBAY.  101 

flung  over  the  side  and  skipped  on  board.  Speaking 
correct  English,  he  saluted  the  mate,  who  stood  at  the 
gangwa}' ;  then  hastened  aft,  and,  making  a  low  salaam 
to  the  skipper,  sohcited  the  honour  of  being  our 
"dubash,"  or  general  purvej'or,  while  we  were  in 
harbour.  To  his  great  disappointment,  however,  Cap- 
tain Smith  was  an  okl  Bombay  trader,  and  always 
employed  the  same  dubash ;  so  that,  after  a  few  com- 
pliments, our  visitor  politely  took  his  leave,  hoping  for 
better  luck  next  time. 

Thenceforward  we  met  many  native  craft,  or  "'bug- 
galows,"  as  they  call  them,  lumbering  along  the  coast 
on  various  errands,  all  characterized  by  a  general 
makeshift  appearance  that  made  me  wonder  however 
they  dared  brave  the  dangers  of  the  sea  at  all.  But 
that  is  a  peculiarity  of  all  Eastern  native  craft.  They 
are  things  of  shreds  and  patches,  and  look  as  seaworthj^ 
as  a  waggon  with  a  worn-out  tarpaulin  set.  Most  of 
them  creep  along  shore  pretty  closely,  and,  at  night, 
lower  their  wooden  anchors  down  about  twenty  fathoms, 
furl  sail,  and  turn  in — or,  at  least,  go  to  sleep.  She  is 
pretty  safe  to  fetch  up  somewhere,  and  time  doesn't 
matter.  If  she  gets  run  dowm  by  some  bustling  ship 
or  another,  it  is  Kismet,  and  not  to  be  helped. 

At  last  we  drew  near  Bombay — that  Liverpool  of 
the  East — the  first  sight  of  which  is  so  amazing  to  an 
untravelled  Briton.  I  was  almost  stupefied  with  wonder 
at  the  mighty  stream  of  traffic,  the  immense  fleet  of 
ships  that  lay  at  anchor  in  the  magnificent  harbour, 
and  the  beauty  of  the  great  city.  We  had  shipped  a 
white  pilot,  who,  being  anxious  to  get  up  to  the  anchor- 
age before  dusk,  and  make  one  job  of  the  mooring,  was 


192  THE  LOG    OF  A   SEA-WAIF. 

"cracking  on"  to  an  exceedingly  stiff  breeze,  making 
the  old  ship  heel  over  alarmingly.  Suddenly  I  heard 
my  name  called.  Piunning  aft,  I  was  met  by  the  second 
mate,  who,  handing  me  a  coil  of  line,  ordered  me  to  go  up 
and  reeve  the  signal  halliards  in  the  mizzen  truck.  Now, 
I  should  premise  that,  like  all  American-built  ships, 
we  carried  very  long  "royal  poles,"  or  bare  tapering 
extensions  of  the  masts  above  the  highest  part  of  the 
rigging.  Ours  were  extra  long — some  sixteen  feet  or 
so — and  crowned  at  the  top,  which  was  not  much 
thicker  than  a  man's  wrist,  with  a  flat  piece  of  wood 
about  as  large  as  a  cheese-plate,  in  one  side  of  which 
was  a  sheave  for  the  signal  halliards  or  flag-line.  I 
started  aloft  boldly  enough ;  but  when  I  reached  the 
base  of  the  pole,  and  saw  to  what  a  height  its  bareness 
towered  above  me,  while  the  staggering  ship  lurched 
to  leeward  and  the  foaming  sea  roared  a  hundred 
and  twenty  feet  below,  my  heart  failed  me,  my  head 
swam,  and  all  my  scanty  stock  of  strength  left  me. 
For  some  time  I  sat  with  my  legs  clutched  round  the 
pole,  just  clinging,  without  power  to  move.  Then  I 
heard  the  voice  of  the  second  mate  pealing  up  from 
the  deck.  "Hurry  up  there  with  those  halliards!" 
Strange  as  it  may  appear,  although  I  felt  that  I  was 
going  to  certain  death,  my  fear  of  him  was  so  great 
that  I  made  the  attempt.  Pulling  myself  up,  I  shut 
my  eyes  and  murmured  a  prayer.  Trembling  in  every 
nerve,  but  fighting  against  my  benumbing  weakness, 
I  actually  struggled  to  the  top.  As  I  write,  the  cold 
sweat  bursts  from  every  pore,  for  I  feel  again  the 
terrible  agony  of  that  moment.  Opening  my  eyes,  I 
thrust  at  the  opening  of  the  sheave  with  the  end  of  the 


UP   THE  INDIAN   OCEAN   TO   BOMBAY.  193 

Hue ;  but  it  was  knotted,  and  would  not  go  through. 
1  licid  tried  and  failed,  and  with  my  last  flash  of  energy 
I  grasped  the  pole  again  in  both  arms,  and  slid  down 
on  to  the  eyes  of  the  royal  rigging.  Here  I  clung  for 
a  few  minutes  to  recover  myself,  and  to  be  violently 
sick;  then,  feeling  as  if  the  bitterness  of  death  was 
past,  I  descended  to  the  deck,  walked  up  to  Mr.  Cottam, 
and  said,  "  I  have  tried,  and  I  can't  do  it,  sir — not  if 
you  kill  me."  He  stared  at  me  blankly  for  a  moment. 
Then  turning  away,  as  if  the  situation  was  beyond  him, 
he  called  my  constant  chum.  Bill  Smith,  and  gave  him 
the  job.  He,  being  strong  as  a  bear  and  agile  as  a 
monkey,  very  soon  managed  it ;  not  without  consider- 
able grumbling  at  Jemmy  for  sending  a  "weakly  kid" 
like  me  on  such  an  errand.  The  whole  episode  may 
seem  trivial ;  but  I  frankly  declare  that  having,  in  my 
experience,  faced  death  many  times,  I  have  never  felt 
such  terror  as  I  did  then. 

We  made  a  "flying  moor"  in  fine  style,  in  spite  of 
the  great  fleet  of  ships  surrounding  us,  the  sails  were 
furled,  decks  cleared  up,  and  all  hands  dismissed 
forrard  to  meditate  upon  the  successful  close  of  our 
passage  of  seven  months  from  Liverpool.  Soon  every- 
body's attention  was  drawn  to  a  large  ship  near  by, 
whose  crew  were  weighing  anchor,  homeward  bound. 
It  was  the  Stornoicay,  the  vessel  we  had  seen  towing 
into  Liverpool  as  we  left.  She  had  discharged  and 
loaded  in  Liverpool,  made  her  passage  out,  and  now, 
having  discharged  and  loaded  in  Bombay,  was  retm-n- 
ing  again.  Such  differences  there  are  between  sailing 
shij)s. 

The  morning  brought  a  chattering  crowd  of  coolies 

o 


194  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

carrying  little  shallow  baskets  aud  sliort  hoes.     At  lirst, 
the  idea  of  discharging  two  thousand  tons  of  coal  by 
such  childish  means  seemed  absurd,  and,  when  a  start 
■was  made,  impossible.     For  the  poor  wretches — men, 
women,  and  children — did  not  appear  to  have  the  faintest 
idea  of  working,  or  to  possess  enough  strength  to  do 
more  than  carry  their  attenuated  bodies  about.     But 
they  were  formed  into  lines,  from  the  hatches  to  the 
gangways,  and,  while  some  scratched  the  coal  into  the 
baskets  with  the  hoes,  the  rest  passed  them  from  hand 
to  hand  to  a  monotonous  chant  of  "  Jal  marck  ooday, 
jal    marck    oodayleeallah,    jal    marck    ooday."      The 
spelling,    of    course,    is   phonetic,    and   I    haven't    the 
faintest  idea  what  it  meant.     So  mechanically  did  they 
"Xmckarow"  those  baskets,  that  often  one  would  pass 
from  the  hatch  to  the  gangway  empty,  the  coolie  on  the 
rail  going  through  the  motions  of  tilting  it  over  into  the 
lighter  and  returning  it.     In  any  case,  I  do  not  think 
the  average  weight  of  coal  passed  in  a  basket  was  seven 
pounds.     Yet  somehow  the  lighters  got  filled.      There 
was  such  a  number  of  coolies,  and  the  passing  was  so 
incessant,  that  it  was  bound  to  tell.     The  crew,  apart 
from  the  discomfort  of  the  all-pervading  coal-dust,  had 
a   very   good   time,    as   little   work   being    required   of 
them  as  possible.     And,  while  a  plentiful  allowance  of 
fresh  meat  and  vegetables  was  provided  by  the  ship, 
there   was  also   a  bumboat    in    attendance    that    kept 
the   men  well  supplied,   at  their  own  cost,  with  fruit, 
eggs,  etc.     I  was  fortunate  enough  again  to  be  book- 
keeper,   receiving    in     return     as    much     fruit    as   I 
wanted. 

Except   on    Sundays,  matters   went   on   in   a  very 


UP    THE  INDIAN   OGEAN   TO   BOMBAY.  195 

humdrum  style,  the  only  iucideut  out  of  the  common 
being  a  picnic  excursion  to  the  rock-temples  of  Elephanta. 
But  I  have  no  intention  of  describing  such  places,  that, 
indeed,  are  as  well  known    to  readers   as  the  Isle  of 
Wight.    My  object  is  a  totally  different  one.    On  Sundays 
I  should  think  the  bulk  of  the  trading  population  got 
afloat,  and  came  ship-visiting.     If  our  ship's  deck  was 
a  fair  sample  of  those  of  the  rest  of  the  fleet,  there 
could  have  been  little  merchandise  left  in  the  bazaars. 
From  the  cabin  to  the  forecastle  the  decks  were  almost 
impassable  for  the  piles  of  curios  of  all  kinds — clothes, 
cigars,  birds,  etc.     The  bulk  of  the  stuff  was  dreadful 
rubbish,  almost  worthless,  in   fact ;    yet,  owing  to  the 
ignorance  of  sailors  of  what  can  be   bought  in  decent 
shops  at  home,  the  trash  fetched  high  prices,  at  least 
double  what  really  good  articles  of  the  same  style  and 
place  of  origin  could  be  bought  for  in  London.     And, 
in    addition   to   that,    by   a    system   nothing   short    of 
robbery,    each    man    was    charged   two    shillings    and 
fourpence  for  every  rupee  he  drew  against  his  hardly 
earned  wages,  while  at  that  time  the  rupee  was  quoted 
officially  at  one  shilling  and  eightpence.     Who  pocketed 
the  eightpence,  I  do  not  know ;  but  I  shrewdly  suspect 
that  it  was  considered,  like  the  backsheesh  levied  from 
the  tailor  and  the  bumboat-wallah,  the  captain's  legiti- 
mate perquisite.     I  have  known  a  captain  pocket  fifty 
rupees  off"  a  bumboat  bill  of  two  hundred  and  fifty,  and, 
of  course,  the  keen-witted  Hindu  based  his  charges  to 
the  men  on  the  expectation  of  such  a  tax ;  so  that  Jack 
was  robbed  on  every  hand,  unless  he  sternly  made  up 
his  mind  to  spend  nothing  "  in  the  country."     And,  as 
not  one  in  a  hundred  sailors  have  such  resolution  as 


196  THE  LUG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

that,  tiiere  are  .some  very  pretty  pickiugs  out  ui'  their 
scanty  wages. 

The  time  sped  swiftly  away,  aud  soon  the  coal  was 
all  out  and  most  of  the  stone  ballast  in.  No  cargo  was 
obtainable  for  us  in  Bombay,  so  we  were  ordered  to 
proceed  to  Bimliapatam  on  the  Coromandel  coast,  and 
after  that  to  Cocouada  to  complete.  But,  before  our 
departure,  the  time-honoured  custom  of  giving  the  crew 
twenty-four  hours'  liberty  must  be  observed.  Conse- 
quently the  mate's  watch  duly  received  twenty  rupees 
each,  and,  dressed  in  their  best,  started  for  the  shore 
one  morning  at  eight  o'clock.  All  of  them  returned  the 
following  morning  except  Bradley,  the  hirsute  Bluenose 
who  lost  m}'  fish  for  me  on  the  passage  out.  But  oh  ! 
what  a  pitiful,  dirty,  draggled  lot  they  were.  And,  in 
spite  of  their  miserable  condition,  they  must  needs  get 
up  several  fights  among  themselves  in  order  to  crown 
the  delights  they  had  been  indulging  in  ashore.  It  was 
(juite  out  of  the  question  to  allow  the  second  mate's 
watch  ashore  that  day ;  and  this  decision  nearly  caused 
our  first  serious  row,  so  eager  were  the  other  half  of  the 
crew  to  go  and  do  even  as  their  fellows  had  done.  But 
as  there  was  nothing  to  prevent  the  petty  officers  going, 
they  all  furbished  up  and  started,  taking  us  two  boys 
with  them.  My  chum  Bill  Smith  was  of  the  party; 
but  as  soon  as  we  landed  he  went  off  with  me,  being  far 
too  old  a  hand  to  be  led  by  anybody.  Of  course,  poor 
fellow  !  having  no  wages,  he  had  to  contrive  to  earn 
a  little  by  washing,  etc.,  and  every  copper  was  carefully 
hoarded  for  the  Bombay  bazaars,  where,  he  informed 
me,  better  bargains  in  clothes  could  be  got  than  any- 
where in  London.     Up  and  down  the  crowded  lanes  of 


UP   THE   IXDIAN   OCEAN   TO    BOMBAY.  197 

the  bazaar  he  led  me,  driving  away  with  contumely  the 
pilots  who  offered  to  personally  conduct  us  for  a  con- 
sideration, and  fingering  the  goods  of  the  various  shop- 
keepers with  the  air  of  one  who  is  bursting  with  wealth. 
At  last,  finding  a  booth  to  his  mind,  he  entered,  and 
forthwith  selected  a  great  heap  of  things :  such  as 
soldier's  trousers,  woollen  shirts,  dungaree  jumpers 
and  trousers,  towels,  caps,  soap — in  fact,  a  regular 
outfit.  At  last  the  middle-aged  Mussulman  who  ran 
the  show  began  to  look  suspicious,  and  said,  "  You  got 
plenty  rupee,  -Johnny  ?  "  "  I've  got  all  I  want,  Johnny," 
said  he.  "Gimme  jar  o'  ginger.  Ginger,  mind;  none 
o'  yer  m'lasses."  The  ginger  was  brought  and  added 
to  the  heap.  Then  Bill  said,  "  Now  then,  Johnny,  how 
much  for  the  lot?"  A  portentous  calculation  ensued, 
which  occupied,  I  should  think,  twenty  minutes.  At 
last  the  account  was  made  up — -forty-five  rupees.  With- 
out moving  a  muscle  of  his  face.  Bill  immediately 
replied,  "I'll  give  you  ten."  Horror,  amazement, 
indignation,  chased  one  another  over  the  countenances 
of  the  shopkeepers.  At  last  one  of  them  found  words. 
"You  make  plenty  laugh,  Johnny  ;  speakee  barabba  one 
time.  Gib  forty  rupee."  "  Not  another  pice,"  said  Bill, 
pulling  out  his  money  and  counting  it  ostentatiously. 
Well,  the  antics  those  two  natives  did  cut,  to  be  sure  ! 
They  worked  themselves  up  into  a  foaming  rage,  thej- 
cast  their  turbans  recklessly  in  the  dust ;  in  such  English 
as  they  could  command  they  reviled  their  tormentor 
and  all  his  relations  to  the  remotest  degree,  and  finally 
came  down  to  thirty  rupees.  That,  they  swore  with 
sudden  solemnity,  was  absolutely  the  bottom  figure, 
at  which  they  would  lose   at  least  five  rupees  on  the 


198  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

transaction.  "  Oh,  very  well,"  said  Bill,  "  then  I'm  off." 
And  rising,  he  said,  "  Come  along,  Tom."  Out  we 
went,  and  strolled  leisurely  along  the  alley  for  about  a 
hundred  yards,  when  suddenly  one  of  the  merchants 
came  flying  after  us,  and,  with  many  smiles,  besought 
Bill  to  return  and  "  speakee  barabba"  now.  Back  we 
went,  and  the  game  began  again.  I  got  thoroughly 
weary  of  it  at  last ;  but  Bill's  patience  was  inexhaus- 
tible. He  was  rewarded,  finally,  by  their  absolute  sub- 
mission to  his  terms,  when,  to  my  consternation,  he 
refused  to  have  the  goods  unless  they  gave  him  a  large 
bottle  of  pepper  as  backsheesh.  Surely,  I  thought,  this 
will  so  disgust  them  that  they  will  assault  us.  But  no ; 
after  another  quarter  of  an  hour's  haggling  they  yielded 
the  last  point,  and,  laden  like  a  sumpter  mule,  Bill  took 
his  triumphant  departure. 

By  this  time  I  had  seen  more  than  enough  of  the 
steaming  hubbub  of  the  bazaars.  But  Bill  had  more 
business  to  transact ;  so  we  parted  company ;  and  I 
wandered  away  alone,  gazing  with  wide-eyed  wonder 
at  the  innumerable  strange  sights  to  be  seen  in  this 
great  humming  city.  No  one  molested  me,  although 
many  curious  glances  were  cast  at  me  by  groups  of 
languid  natives,  of  all  shades,  as  I  trudged  along  without 
any  definite  idea  whither  I  was  going.  At  last,  utterly 
weary,  I  found  myself  down  at  the  water's  edge  again. 
The  afternoon  was  getting  on,  and  I  should  soon  have 
to  return  on  board;  but  as  I  had  still  two  rupees,  I 
thought  I  would  like  a  trip  up  the  harbour  to  Mazagan, 
or  beyond  it.  Full  of  my  project,  I  chartered  a  canoe 
with  two  men  in  it  to  take  me  for  a  sail,  bargaining,  as 
well  as  I  was  able,  in  my  ignorance  of  the  language,  for 


UP   TEE   INDIAN   OCEAN   TO   BOMBAY.  199 

a  two  hours'  sail,  ending  on  board  my  ship.  We  started, 
and,  for  perhaps  half  an  hour,  I  thoroughly  enjoyed 
myself,  as  the  canoe  glided  along  right  up  past  the 
P.  and  0.  moorings  and.  the  Arsenal.  Then,  when  we 
were  clear  of  the  shipping,  my  boatmen  suddenly 
stopped  and  began  an  animated  discussion  with  me, 
which  was  somewhat  complicated  by  the  fact  that 
neither  of  us  understood  the  other.  Eventually  I  be- 
came convinced  that  they  wanted  more  money,  and 
their  previously  mild  behaviour  grew  certainly  aggres- 
sive. I  felt  very  nervous,  but  struggled  to  conceal  the 
fact,  speaking  boldly,  as  if  accustomed  to  be  obeyed. 
Finally  I  produced  my  money,  and  turned  my  pockets 
inside  out  to  show  that  I  had  no  more.  Upon  seeing 
this  they  held  a  long  conversation,  during  which  the 
canoe  drifted  idly  and  I  sat  upon  thorns.  At  last, 
much  to  my  relief,  they  turned  the  boat's  head  towards 
the  anchorage  again,  and,  without  another  word,  pad- 
dled homeward.  Arriving  about  a  cable's  length  from 
the  ship  they  stopped,  and  demanded  their  money.  But 
I,  having  seen  the  stalwart  figure  of  the  mate  standing 
on  the  forecastle  head,  stood  up,  and,  with  all  the  voice 
I  could  muster,  shouted,  "  Western  Belle,  ahoy  !  "  Mr. 
Edny  heard  me  and  waved  his  hand.  This  move  on 
my  part  evidently  disconcerted  them,  and  they  paddled 
vigorously  for  the  gangway.  As  soon  as  the  canoe 
touched  the  side,  I  sprang  up  and  told  Mr.  Edny  what 
had  happened.  He  asked  me  what  I  had  promised 
them.  I  told  him  one  rupee.  Taking  eight  annas  from 
me,  he  went  down  the  gangway  and  offered  it  to  them. 
When  they  set  up  a  perfect  storm  of  protests,  he  just 
pitched  the  piece  of  money  into  the  canoe  and  pushed 


200  THE  LOO    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

it  away  from  the  side,  returning  on  board  without  taking 
any  further  notice.  Needless  to  say,  I  was  heartily 
thankful  to  be  well  out  of  what  at  one  time  looked  like 
an  ugly  scrape. 

Next  morning  the  liberty  men  returned  on  board  in 
the  usual  condition,  but  Bradley  was  not  with  them.  That 
night,  however,  he  paid  us  a  visit  by  stealth,  coming  up 
the  cable  and  rifling  several  of  his  shipmates'  chests  of 
whatever  was  worth  carrying  off.  Then  he  went  ashore 
again  unperceived,  showing  what  a  very  slack  watch 
was  kept.  There  was  consternation  in  the  forecastle 
when  the  robbery  was  discovered,  and  a  good  deal  of 
wild  talk;  but  Bradley  was  something  of  a  ''bucko," 
and  I  very  much  doubt  whether  any  of  them  would 
have  said  much  to  him  had  he  been  there  in  person. 
Three  days  longer  we  remained  at  anchor,  although 
apparently  quite  ready  for  sea.  On  the  second  morning 
Bradley  returned,  and  climbing  on  board,  walked  aft 
and  coolly  asked  the  mate  for  a  rupee  to  pay  his  boat- 
man with.  Being  curtly  refused  and  ordered  forward, 
he  stripped  off  the  filthy  white  shirt  he  was  wearing, 
and  rolling  it  up,  flung  it  over  to  the  dinghy-wallah, 
bidding  him  to  "  Kinnaree  jao,  jildee "  (get  ashore 
quick).  With  this  the  poor  beggar  was  perforce  content, 
making  off  hurriedly.  Bradley  then  made  for  his  bunk, 
saying  no  word  to  any  one  until  the  afternoon,  when  he 
bade  Julius  Csesar  go  and  tell  the  skipper  that  he  was 
very  ill.  This  message  actuallj'  made  the  old  man 
angry.  He  came  forward  and  gave  the  defaulter  a 
piece  of  his  mind  ;  but  being  evidently  impressed  by  the 
look  of  the  man,  who  had  been  gutter-raking  in  all 
the  filth  of  "  coolie  town  "  for  three  days,  he  sent  for 


UP    THE   INDIAN   OCEAN   TO   BOMBAY.        201 

the  harbour  doctor.  That  worthy,  after  examination, 
gave  it  as  his  opinion  that  there  was  nothing  the 
matter  with  the  fellow  but  bad  gin  and  want  of  food, 
assuring  the  skipper  that  he  would  be  all  right  as  soon 
as  we  got  to  sea. 

Next  morning  we  got  under  way  and  sailed,  not 
without  another  protest  from  Bradley,  of  which  no 
notice  was  taken,  as  the  medical  officer,  who  was  then 
paying  his  final  visit,  adhered  to  his  opinion.  We  took 
a  favourable  wind  at  the  harbour's  mouth,  and  slid 
gently  down  the  coast  under  easy  sail,  the  vessel  being 
"  tender "  from  scanty  allowance  of  ballast.  But  the 
weather  was  lovely,  the  wind  fair,  and  everything 
promised  a  delightful  trip.  Bradley,  however,  steadily 
got  worse.  Presently  an  angrj^-looking  eruption  of 
pimples  burst  out  all  over  his  body,  even  the  inside  of 
his  mouth  being  invaded.  Then  my  purgatory  com- 
menced. No  one  would  have  anything  to  do  with  him, 
although  he  was  quite  helpless.  He  was  shifted  out  of 
the  forecastle  up  on  to  the  forecastle-head,  and  a  sort 
of  tent  rigged  over  him  to  keep  the  sun  off.  Then  I  was 
told  off  to  attend  to  him.  The  horror  of  that  time  will 
never  leave  me.  He  was,  as  I  have  before  noted,  with 
the  exception  of  the  mate,  the  most  hairy  man  I  ever 
saw,  the  black  shaggy  covering  of  his  arms  and  legs 
being  at  least  an  inch  and  a  half  long,  while  his  chest 
and  back  were  more  like  a  great  ape's  than  a  man's. 
Therefore,  when  all  those  pimples  grew  until  they  were 
large  as  a  finger-top,  and  so  close  together  that  not  a 
speck  of  sound  flesh  was  visible,  the  task  of  washing 
him,  which  I  had  to  perform  alone,  was  really  an  awful 
one.     I  must  draw  a  veil  over  the  further  development 


202  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

of  those  horrible  pustules.  .  .  .  Happily  for  the  patient 
he  became  delirious  and  apparently  insensible  to  pain. 
How  I  kept  my  reason  I  don't  know;  but  I  thought,, 
and  still  think,  that  it  was  a  frightful  ordeal  for  a 
youngster  under  fourteen  to  endure  for  a  whole  week. 
I  had  nothing  else  to  do ;  no  relief,  except  my  ordinary 
watch  below,  during  which  he  was  left  quite  alone.  On 
the  eleventh  day  after  leaving  Bombay  we  entered 
Bimliapatam  Eoads,  and  just  as  we  did  so  death  mer- 
cifully came  to  his  rescue  and  mine.  The  carpenter 
botched  up  a  rough  coffin,  into  which  the  unrecog- 
nizable heap,  with  all  its  bedding,  was  hurriedly 
bundled,  taken  ashore,  and  buried  at  the  foot  of  the 
flagstaff  without  any  ceremony  whatever.  No  one 
seemed  to  know  what  the  disease  had  been ;  but  I  can 
only  say  that  having  seen  lepers  in  all  stages  of  dis- 
figurement, and  many  other  cases  of  terrible  pestilential 
ravages,  I  have  never  seen  anything  so  awful  as  the 
case  of  William  Bradley. 


(     203 


CHAPTER   XYII. 


ON    THE    COEOMANDEL    COAST. 


Freed  from  that  horrible  incubus,  I  had  now  leisure  to 
look  about  and  enjoy  the  varied  scenes  that  presented 
themselves.  The  place  we  were  lying  at  was,  I  suppose, 
a  typical  native  coast  village,  a  big  hill  facing  the 
anchorage  having  a  rock-hewn  temple  upon  its  sea-front. 
There  was  no  harbour  or  shelter  of  any  kind,  so  that 
vessels  lay  all  ready  for  sea  in  case  of  bad  weather 
setting  in.  All  cargo  was  brought  off  in  the  crazy 
"  massulah  "  boats,  which  have  been  so  often  described 
by  visitors  to  Madras,  and  are  the  only  craft  able  to 
stand  the  rough  usage  of  the  surf-beaten  beach.  The 
fishermen  went  out  on  primitive  contrivances  of  three 
logs  lashed  together  without  any  attempt  at  hollowing 
out  or  fashioning  bow  and  stern.  Kneeling  upon  the 
two  outer  logs  in  the  centre  of  the  crazy  thing,  the  poor 
wretch  would  paddle  seaward  until  out  of  sight,  his 
sole  equipment  a  palm-leaf  basket  secured  just  in  front 
of  him,  and  containing  his  fishing  tackle.  Neither  food 
nor  water  could  be  carried,  yet  in  this  miserable  condi- 
tion they  would  remain  out  for  many  hours,  at  the 
mercy  of  every  wave  that  came  along,  and  often  being 


204  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

rolled  over  several  times  in  succession.  The  catches  of 
fish  they  made  were  always  pitifully  small,  it  seemed  to 
me,  sometimes  consisting  of  only  a  couple  of  dozen 
large  prawns,  though  how  they  caught  them  out  there 
was  a  mystery  to  me. 

Our  cargo  was  an  assorted  one.  Jaggery,  or  palm 
sugar — looking  like  bags  of  black  mud,  and  almost  as 
nice  to  handle, — buffalo  horns  and  hides,  cases  of  castor 
oil,  bags  of  myrabolums  (a  kind  of  dye-nut),  and  sundry 
other  queer  things  came  off  to  us  in  small  quantities  at 
a  time,  and  were  flung  on  board  in  a  most  haphazard 
fashion,  owing  to  the  constant  swell,  which  made  the 
boats  tumble  about  alongside  vivaciously.  All  the 
stowage  was  done  by  the  crew  under  the  direction  of 
Jemmy  the  Scrubber,  who  proved  himself  as  capable  a 
stevedore  as  he  was  a  seaman.  No  one  went  ashore 
except  the  skipper  while  we  lay  there,  and  he  would 
gladly  have  avoided  the  necessity,  if  possible,  since  it 
usually  meant  a  thorough  drenching.  On  the  whole,  we 
were  by  no  means  sorry  when  the  news  came  that  we 
were  to  leave  and  proceed  down  the  coast  to  Coconada. 
As  we  were  always  ready  to  sail,  there  were  none  of  the 
usual  preliminaries ;  we  just  hauled  in  the  fenders, 
hove  the  anchor  up,  and  started.  Here  our  skipper's 
local  knowledge  was  of  great  service.  For  we  hugged 
the  coast  closely  all  the  way  down,  keeping  a  favourable 
wind,  which  brought  us  into  Coconada  Bay  in  a  few 
hours,  while  the  Andromeda,  a  big  Liverpool  ship  that 
sailed  at  the  same  time  for  the  same  port,  stood  off  the 
land,  got  into  bad  weather,  and  did  not  arrive  for 
twenty-eight  days.  She  had  also  sustained  severe 
damage  to  both  ship  and  cargo. 


ON   THE   aOlWMANDEL    COAST.  205 

AVliile  Coconada  was  evidently  a  much  more  impor- 
tant place  than  Bimliapatam,  we  saw  nothing  of  the 
town,  for  we  lay  a  long  way  off  in  the  centre  of  a  huge 
bay.  We  were  near  enough,  though,  to  hear  the  various 
cries  of  the  wild  beasts,  among  which  the  hideous  noise 
of  the  hyenas  was  especially  noticeable.  Our  unhappy 
painter,  who  had  remained  in  Bombay  hospital  during 
the  whole  of  our  stay  there,  was  again  so  ill  that  he  had 
to  be  landed  here.  But,  getting  convalescent,  he  and  a 
fellow  patient  went  for  a  stroll  one  day,  and,  wandering 
out  of  the  town,  they  met  a  hyena.  Barber  was  so 
scared  that  he  fainted  right  away,  but  the  other  man 
found  sufficient  vitality  to  scramble  up  a  tree.  He  had 
not  got  very  high,  though,  before  weakness  overcame 
him,  and  he  fell,  breaking  his  leg.  When  Barber  came 
to  there  was  no  trace  of  the  hyena,  but  he  and  his 
fellow  were  in  a  pitiful  plight.  There  they  would 
doubtless  have  stopped,  and  had  their  bones  picked 
clean  by  the  morning,  but  for  a  party  of  friendly  coolies 
who  came  along,  and,  seeing  their  condition,  fetched  a 
couple  of  "palkees"  and  carried  them  back  to  hospital 
again. 

Here,  then,  we  remained  for  three  weeks,  filling  the 
hold  with  a  miscellaneous  collection  of  Indian  produce, 
of  which  cotton,  linseed,  and  myrabolums  formed  the 
staple,  until  the  great  capacity  of  our  ship  for  cargo 
was  effectually  satisfied,  and  she  was  jammed  full  to  the 
hatch  coamings.  Then  all  hands,  released  from  their 
stifling  labours  below,  bent  their  energies  to  getting 
ready  for  sea.  Meanwhile,  although  our  crew  were 
certainly  a  most  patient  set  of  men,  their  discontent  at 
the  short-handedness,  which    ever  since  leaving  home 


206  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

bad  pressed  so  hardly  upon  us  all,  gathered  to  a  head, 
culmiuatiug  in  a  visit  ol"  all  hands  to  the  cj[uarter-deck 
with  a  request  to  see  the  skipper.  Genial  as  ever, 
Captain  Smith  appeared,  his  ruddy  face  wearing  an 
expression  of  benign  wonderment  at  the  unusual 
summons.  "Well,  what  is  it,  men?"  said  he.  Then 
stepped  forward  an  elderly  Yankee,  who  had  been  a 
bo'sun's  mate  in  the  American  navy,  a  shrewd,  intelli- 
gent man  with  a  rich  fund  of  native  humour,  and  a 
prime  favourite  fore  and  aft.  "  We've  taken  thelibbaty, 
sir,  ov  comin'  aft  t'ask  ye  ef  it's  yeur  intenshun  ter  sail 
'thout  shippin'  enny  more  hands  ? "  was  his  reply. 
"  Well,  in  the  first  place,  Nat,"  answered  the  skipper, 
"  there's  no  hands  ter  be  got  here,  an'  besides,  in  sech 
a  easy-workin'  ship  as  this  is,  there's  no  hardship  in 
bein'  a  cupple  o'  hands  short."  "  The  good  Lawd 
t'ergive  ye,  sir  !  "  exclaimed  Nat ;  "  ef  thishyers  a  heasy- 
workin'  ship,  what  mout  ye,  reckon  a  /mrfZ-workin'  one 
'ud  be  like  ?  Why,  cap'n,  it  takes  two  men  to  haul 
thro'  the  slack  ov  th'  braces,  an'  it's  all  a  man's  work  to 
overhaul  the  gear  of  a  to'gantsle.  'Sides,  sir,  yew  know  it 
takes  all  hands  to  shorten  her  down  to  the  taupsles,  'n 
what  we  k'n  do  with  her  in  a  squall — well,  I  hain't  fergot 
thet  plesant  evenin'  off  the  Cape  ef  yew  have."  At  this 
vigorous  reply  the  old  man  could  only  laugh  to  show 
his  apx)reciation  of  the  home-thrusts  it  contained,  but 
with  native  shrewdness  he  changed  his  base,  still  pre- 
serving his  cheery  good  temper.  "  Mind  ye,  I  don't  say 
we  ain't  short-handed,"  he  said — "  very  short-handed  ; 
but  we're  gettin'  out  ov  the  Bay  o'  Bengal  'fore  the 
sou-west  monsoon  sets  in,  'n  yew  know  's  well  's  me 
that  it's  fine  weather  'mos'  all  the  way  ter  the  Cape 


ON   THE   COUOMANDEL    COAST.  207 

ouce  we  cross  the  Hue.  'N  if  we  git  emiy  dirt  otih  the 
Cape  I'll  keep  her  under  easy  sail,  'n  let  the  'Gulhas 
current  sweep  her  roun',  'n  then  we'll  jest  be  home  in 
no  time.  Yew  leav'  it  t'  me.  We  hain't  been  eight 
months  together  'thout  knowin'  each  other,  'n  yew  all 
know  yew  k'n  depend  on  me  to  do  the  best  I  k'n  ter 
make  ye  comfortable.  But  I  ccuit  get  any  hands  in 
this  God-forsaken  place  if  we  only  had  two  left  forrard/' 
That  speech  settled  it.  If  Captain  Smith  had  been  an 
irritable  man,  inclined  to  put  on  airs  of  outraged  dignity 
because  his  crew  asked  him  a  perfectly  reasonable 
question,  and  to  rate  them  like  a  set  of  factious  children, 
there  would  have  been  an  instant  refusal  of  duty  on  the 
part  of  the  men,  followed  by  much  suffering  and  loss  on 
both  sides,  for  the  chaps  were  thoroughl}-  in  earnest. 
But  the  skipper's  frank  good-humour  and  acceptance  of 
the  situation  disarmed  them,  and  they  returned  forward 
with  minds  made  up  to  see  the  voyage  out  as  best  they 
could.  Next  day  we  weighed  anchor  and  sailed  for 
London,  the  windlass  revolving  to  the  time-honoured 
tune  of  "  Good-bye,  fare-you-well ;  hurrah,  my  boys, 
we're  homeward  bound." 

Just  prior  to  our  departure  we  received  on  board 
some  two  or  three  hundred  fowls  and  two  goats,  which, 
added  to  about  twenty  pigs — mostly  bred  on  board,  two 
large  dogs,  two  monkeys,  sundry  parrots  and  two  cats, 
made  the  ship  bear  no  bad  resemblance  to  Noah's  Ark. 
None  of  these  animals  had  any  settled  abiding  place  ; 
they  just  roamed  about  the  decks  whithersoever  they 
would,  except  on  the  sacred  precincts  of  the  poop, 
which  were  faithfully  guarded  by  one  of  the  dogs,  who 
allowed  no  intrusion  by  any  of  the  grunting,  clucking  or 


208  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

chattering  crowd.  But  this  state  of  things  was  a  great 
trial  to  all  concerned.  For  one  of  the  cardinal  necessi- 
ties of  British  or  American  ships  is  cleanliness,  which 
is  secured  hy  copious  floods  of  salt  water,  and  vigorous 
scrubbing  every  morning.  Under  present  conditions 
keeping  the  vessel  clean  was  manifestly  impossible,  the 
crowd  of  animals  even  invading  the  men's  quarters, 
as  well  as  every  nook  into  which  they  could  possibly 
squeeze  themselves.  There  was  a  great  deal  of  dissatis- 
faction forward  at  this  state  of  things,  and  fowls  were 
continually  flying  overboard,  being  chased  and  smitten 
by  angry  men,  who  found  everything  under  their  hands 
befouled  and  stinking.  Still  the  nuisance  was  unabated 
until  we  were  ten  days  out.  Just  ofl'  Cape  Comorin  we 
got  our  first  stiff  breeze  of  the  homeward  passage,  and 
very  soon,  in  accordance  with  her  invariable  custom, 
the  old  ship  began  to  take  sufficient  water  over  the  rail 
to  flood  the  decks  fore  and  aft.  Then  there  was  a 
commotion  in  the  farmyard.  The  watch,  up  to  their 
waists  in  water,  splashed  about  collecting  the  squawking 
chickens,  and,  driving  the  bewildered  swine  into  a 
temporary  shelter,  rigged  up  under  the  topgallant  fore- 
castle. Next  morning  at  least  four  dozen  dead  fowls 
were  flung  overboard,  in  addition  to  many  that  had  fled 
blindly  into  the  sea  on  the  previous  day.  This  loss  so 
disgusted  the  skipper  that  he  ordered  all  hands  to  be 
fed  on  poultry  until  the  stock  was  exhausted.  At  first 
this  benevolent  (?)  command  gave  a  good  deal  of  delight, 
but  when  the  miserable,  leathery  carcases,  boiled  in  salt 
water,  unclean  and  unsavoury,  were  brought  into  the 
forecastle,  there  was  almost  a  riot.  A  deputation  waited 
upon  the  captain  to  protest  and  demand  their  proper 


ON   TEE   COROMANDEL    COAST.  209 

rations  of  "salt  horse."      They  were  received  by  the 
ski23per  with  a  very  ill  grace,  and  the  usual  senseless 
remarks  about  sailors'  fastidiousness  in  the  matter   of 
food  were  freely  indulged  in  by  the   "  old  man,"  who 
seemed  quite  out  of  temper.      We  got  no  more  Coro- 
mandel  poultry,  though,  which  was  a  blessing,  albeit  they 
were  served  up  to  the  cabin  as  usual.     Being  prepared 
in   a   civilized   fashion,  I    suppose,  the    officers   found 
them  eatable.     But  in  various  ways  the  flock  of  fowls 
diminished  rapidly,  much  to  our  relief,  and  gradually 
the  decks  began  to    assume   their  normal  cleanliness. 
The  pigs,  numerous  as  they  were,  could  be  kept  within 
bounds   forward ;    in   fact,    the    dogs   rarely   permitted 
them  to  come  abaft  the  foremast.    As  for  the  two  goats, 
they  grew  so  mischievous,  gnawing  the  ends  of  all  the 
ropes,   and   nibbling   at   everjihing   except  iron,   that 
orders  for  their  execution  went  forth,  and  since  no  one 
would  eat  them,  their  bodies  were  flung  overboard. 


210  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 


CHAPTEE  XYIII. 

HO:\IEWAr.D    TO    LONDON. 

As  Captain  Smith  had  foretold,  ^Ye  were  having  an 
exceedingly  fine-weather  passage.  All  the  way  down 
the  Indian  Ocean  we  were  favoured  with  pleasant 
hreezes,  fair  for  our  course,  and  glorious  weather. 
Every  care  was  taken  to  make  the  work  as  light  as 
possible  for  the  small  crew,  although  we  in  the  starboard 
watch  were  sorely  exasperated  by  the  second  mate's 
devotion  to  sand  and  canvas — a  mania  that  had  given 
him  his  well-earned  sobriquet  of  "  Jemmy  the  Scrubber." 
If  he  could  only  have  his  watch  slopping  about  with  a 
few  buckets  of  sand  and  rags  of  old  canvas,  rubbing 
away  at  the  dingy  interior  of  the  bulwarks,  that  with 
all  his  attentions  never  icoidd  look  white,  he  was 
in  his  glory.  But  oh  !  how  we  did  hate  the  messy, 
fiddling  abomination.  It  made  our  discontent  the 
greater  to  notice  that  the  mate's  watch  scarcely  ever 
touched  it.  Like  a  sensible  man,  Mr.  Edny  preferred 
to  have  one  thoroughly  good  scrub  down  at  lengthy 
intervals,  going  over  the  whole  of  the  paint  in  one  day, 
to  scratching  like  a  broody  hen,  first  here  and  then 
there,  in  patches,  and  never  making  a  decent  job  after 


HOMEWARD    TO   LONDON.  211 

all.  It  kept  the  watch  in  a  chronic  state  of  growl,  which 
was  only  prevented  from  breaking  out  into  downright 
rebellion  by  the  knowledge  that  the  second  mate  was 
always  in  hot  water  aft,  although,  owing  to  his  seven 
years'  service  in  the  ship,  the  skipper  and  mate  allowed 
him  to  have  pretty  much  his  own  way.  Apart  from 
this,  things  went  on  smoothly  enough.  Many  a  time 
did  Jemmy,  with  only  such  assistance  as  Bill  and  I 
could  give  him,  set  and  take  in  the  lighter  sails  without 
disturbing  the  rest  of  the  watch,  who  were  fast  asleep 
in  their  several  bunks.  They  knew  this  well,  and  con- 
sequently never  turned  out,  even  upon  the  most  urgent 
necessity,  without  a  chorus  of  growls  at  the  second 
mate,  although  he  never  took  the  slightest  notice  of 
them. 

So  we  slowly  lumbered  homeward  in  uneventful 
monotony,  until  one  morning  we  made  the  laud  about 
East  London,  and  congratulated  ourselves  that  we  were 
near  the  southern  limit  of  our  journey  home.  Still  the 
weather  was  kind  to  us.  No  envious  southerly  gale 
battered  us  back  from  the  Cape  we  were  striving  to  get 
round,  and  presently  we  found  ourselves  in  the  embrace 
of  the  great  Agulhas  current  that  for  ever  sets  steadily 
round  the  Cape  westward.  Homeward  bounders  have 
reason  to  rejoice  when  they  enter  the  limits  of  this 
mighty  marine  river,  for,  in  spite  of  contrary  winds  or 
calms,  they  are  irresistibly  carried  on  the  way  they 
would  go  at  a  rate  that  is  the  same  for  the  bluff-bowed 
sea-waggon  as  for  the  ocean-flyer.  And  one  day,  to  my 
intense  delight — for  I  had  heard  a  tale  from  Bill — the 
wind  died  completely  away  and  the  water  became  as 
smooth  as  a  mirror.     Every  bit  of  line  in  the  ship  that 


212  TEE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

could  by  any  possibility  serve  as  a  fishing-line  was 
ferreted  out,  and  fishing  commenced.  At  first  only  the 
favoured  few,  whose  lines  were  fifty  or  sixty  fathoms 
long,  got  a  look  in,  bringing  up  from  the  bank  far  below 
us  some  magnificent  specimens  of  cod.  Then,  as  the  fish 
followed  their  disappearing  comrades  up,  the  shorter 
lines  came  into  play,  and  the  fun  became  general.  It 
was  a  regular  orgie  of  fishing.  At  least  three  hundred 
splendid  fish  of  various  kinds,  but  chiefly  cod,  rewarded 
our  efforts,  the  subsequent  feast  being  something  to 
date  from.  Better  still,  the  weather  being  cool,  we 
were  able  to  salt  down  a  large  quantity  for  use  later 
on,  so  that  we  had  fish  for  nearly  a  month  afterwards. 
After  about  eight  hours  of  this  calm  a  gentle  south- 
easterly breeze  sprang  up,  which  persisted  and  strength- 
ened, until,  with  the  dim  outlines  of  the  high  land 
behind  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  on  our  starboard 
quarter,  we  were  bowling  cheerily  along  under  every 
rag  we  could  muster,  our  head  pointing  north-north- 
west, homeward-bound  indeed. 

Then  the  work  that  must  be  undertaken  in  every 
respectable  ship  on  the  "home-stretch"  came  with  a 
rush.  Setting  up  rigging,  rattling  down,  general  over- 
haul of  running  and  standing  gear,  chipping  iron-work 
and  painting  it  with  red  lead,  scraping  bright  wood- 
work, etc.,  etc.,  kept  us  all  busy,  although  we  were 
allowed  watch  and  watch  all  along.  In  most  ships  it  is 
the  custom  while  in  the  south-east  trades,  homeward- 
bound,  to  give  no  afternoon  watch  below  in  order  that 
the  bulk  of  the  "redding-up"  may  be  done  before 
crossing  the  line.  But  for  several  reasons  our  skij^per 
did  not  think  it  advisable  to  tax  his  scanty  crew  too 


HOMEWARD    TO   LONDON.  213 

much.  As  for  attendance  on  the  sails,  we  might  have 
been  a  steamship  for  all  the  work  of  that  kind  required 
— the  "  south-east  trades  "  being  notoriously  steady  and 
reliable  in  the  Atlantic,  while  the  north-east  trades  are 
often  entirely  wanting.  So  we  had  trades,  from  the 
Cape  to  the  line,  that  did  not  vary  a  point  in  force  or 
direction  for  three  weeks ;  and,  if  she  would  have 
steered  herself,  she  could  have  made  that  part  of  the 
passage  unmanned.  The  time  literally  flew  by,  being 
delightfully  punctuated  every  Sunday  by  a  glorious  feed 
of  roast  pig — two  of  our  large  stock  of  home-bred  porkers 
bring  sacrificed  each  Saturday,  and  fairly  apportioned 
among  all  hands. 

St.  Helena  was  sighted  ten  days  after  losing  sight  of 
the  African  land — a  huge  black  mass,  towering  to  an 
enormous  height,  as  it  seemed  to  me.  We  approached 
it  very  closely,  purposing  to  report  ourselves  there,  but 
not  to  anchor.  Coming  round  under  the  huge  crags  of 
the  southern  end  with  all  sail  set,  we  had  a  splendid 
view  of  the  cliffs,  rising  sheer  from  the  sea,  whereon  the 
gliding  shadow  of  our  ship  was  cast  in  almost  perfect 
resemblance.  Who  was  responsible  for  the  neglect,  I 
do  not  know,  but  suddenly  down  a  gorge  in  the  mountain 
rushed  a  fierce  blast  almost  at  right  angles  to  the  wind 
we  were  carrying,  and  making  the  canvas  shake  and 
flap  with  a  thunderous  noise.  There  was  a  great  bustle 
to  get  sail  off  her,  but  unfortunately  she  paid  off'  rather 
smartly,  and  crach  went  the  mizzen-topmast  before  the 
sails  came  down.  A  piece  of  gross  carelessness  !  for  no 
coast  of  that  kind  should  ever  be  approached  under  sail 
without  all  due  precautions  for  shortening  down.  Neglect 
of  such  preparation  has  caused  the  loss  of  many  a  fine 


214  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

ship  and  countless  boats,  "with  appalling  sacrifice  of  life. 
It  was  the  only  spar  we  lost  during  the  whole  of  that 
voyage. 

By  the  time  we  had  got  the  kites  off  her  we  had 
opened  out  the  great  gorge,  in  whicli,  as  if  it  had  been 
dropped  from  the  cliffs  above,  lies  the  town,  the  houses 
appearing  curiously  jumbled  together.  AYe  were  so 
close  in  that  the  great  ladder,  credited,  I  believe,  with  a 
rung  for  every  day  in  the  year,  which  leads  up  on  to 
the  cliff's  from  the  town,  was  plainly  visible.  Only  one 
ship,  the  Xoacli  Till.,  of  Eotterdam,  one  of  the  regular 
old  Dutch  East  Indiamen  from  Java,  was  at  anchor,  for 
even  then  the  prosperous  days  of  St.  Helena  as  a  sort  of 
ocean  "  half-way  house  "  had  departed,  never  to  return. 
We  spelt  out  our  name  and  ports  of  departure  and 
destination  with  the  length  of  passage,  our  information 
being  duly  acknowledged  from  the  flag-staff.  In  a  few 
minutes  more  we  were  again  in  the  grip  of  our  faithful 
friend  the  south-east  trade,  and  feeling  that  another 
important  milestone  was  x)assed  on  our  long  journey. 
Placidly,  equably,  we  jogged  on,  four  days  afterwards 
sighting  and  signalling  to  the  barren  volcano-scarred 
island  of  Ascension,  the  exclusive  domain  of  men-o'-war, 
for  whose  behalf  a  large  naval  establishment  is  main- 
tained in  highest  efficiency.  Another  landmark  left 
behind.  Onward  we  sped  with  freshening  trades  and 
increasing  speed  until  we  were  actually  in  eight  degrees 
north  latitude,  so  kindly  had  the  fair  wind  we  took 
off'  the  pitch  of  the  Cape  favoured  us.  But  our  good 
fortune  still  held.  Instead  of  at  least  a  week  of  the 
detestable  doldrums  we  fully  expected,  we  had  only  one 
day's  detention  before  the  north-east  trades  swej^t  down 


nOMEWABD    TO   LONDON.  215 

upon  us,  and  away  we  went,  braced  sharp  up  on  the  star- 
board tack  to  the  north-westward.  And  now  for  a  while, 
all  the  tarry  work  being  done,  all  hands  were  trans- 
formed into  painters  and  varnishers.  Within  and  without 
also,  as  far  as  the  wash  of  the  sea  alongside  would  allow, 
we  painted  and  polished,  until  the  grimy,  once  shabby 
old  packet  looked  quite  smart  and  shining.  The  second 
mate  was  right  in  his  element.  He  begrudged  himself 
necessary  rest,  and  often  looked  angrily  at  the  sun  when 
setting,  as  if  he  felt  he  was  being  defrauded  out  of  a 
few  minutes  more  of  his  beloved  labour.  Never  surely 
was  there  a  man  who  loved  work  for  its  own  sake  better 
than  he.  Never  had  a  ship  a  more  energetic  seaman- 
like officer.  Yet  he  w^as  by  no  means  appreciated  aft, 
although  his  worth  was  undeniable.  And  as  so  often 
happens,  he  was  doomed  to  be  a  junior  officer  all  his 
life,  for  he  could  not  do  the  simplest  problem  in  navi- 
gation without  making  the  most  ludicrous  mistakes. 
However  he  "  passed  "  for  second  mate  was  a  mystery 
known  only  to  the  examiners.  Mainly,  I  believe,  by  his 
untiring  efforts,  all  our  painting  operations  were  success- 
fully completed  before  we  reached  the  northern  verge  of 
the  trox)ic,  where  changeable  weather  began  to  appear. 
But,  when  once  the  paint  was  on,  he  was  like  a  hen  with 
one  chick.  His  eager  eye  was  ever  on  the  watch  for 
any  unfortunate  who  should  dare  to  sully  the  whiteness 
of  the  bulwarks  within,  or  heave  anything  overboard 
carelessly  that  might  mark  the  glossy  blackness  outside. 
But  his  great  carnival  was  yet  to  come.  One  morning 
shortly  after  four,  under  his  directions,  I  lugged  up 
from  the  fore-peak  a  number  of  lumps  of  sandstone, 
which  he  busied  himself  till  daylight  in  shaping  into 


216  THE  LOO    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

sizeable  blocks,  while  I  pounded  the  smaller  pieces  into 
sand.  Promptly  at  four  bells  the  watch  were  gathered 
aft,  and  "holystoning"  commenced.  This  delightful 
pastime  consists  of  rubbing  the  decks,  along  the  grain  of 
the  wood,  with  blocks  of  sandstone,  the  process  being 
assisted  by  scattered  sand  and  water.  For  three  days 
the  decks  were  in  a  continual  muck  of  muddy  sand,  and 
Jemmy's  face  wore  a  steady,  beaming  smile.  When,  at 
last,  all  the  grit  was  flooded  away,  the  result  was 
dazzling.  The  decks  were  really  beautiful  in  their 
si^otless  cleanliness.  Then,  to  my  unbounded  amaze- 
ment, no  sooner  were  they  dry,  than  a  vile  mixture  of 
varnish,  oil,  and  coal-tar,  was  boiled  in  an  impromptu 
furnace  on  deck,  and  with  this  hideous  compost  the 
spotless  planks  were  liberally  besmeared.  I  felt  per- 
sonally aggrieved.  ""Why" — I  could  not  help  asking 
m}^  chum  Bill — "  why,  in  the  name  of  goodness  all 
this  back-breaking  holystoning  only  to  plaster  such  a 
foul  mess  on  the  decks  immediately  afterward  ? " 
"  Preserves  the  wood,"  was  the  sententious  reply,  and 
it  was  all  the  answer  I  could  get.  Certainly  the  poop 
was  varnished  only,  which  made  it  a  fine  golden  hue 
until  the  first  water  was  poured  on  it.  After  that  it 
always  looked  as  if  a  lot  of  soapsuds  had  been  poured 
over  it  and  left  to  dry. 

But  with  this  final  outrage  on  common  sense,  as  I 
couldn't  helj)  considering  it,  our  ship-decorating  came 
to  an  end.  Henceforth  the  chief  object  in  view  appar- 
ently was  to  preserve,  as  far  as  possible,  the  spick  and 
span  appearance  of  the  vessel  until  she  reached  home. 
Those  beautiful  decks,  especially,  were  the  objects  of 
Jemmy's   constant   solicitude.      He   found   some   nail- 


HOMEWARD    TO   LONDON.  217 

marks  one  day  left  by  somebody's  boots,  and  one  would 
have  thought  the  ship  had  sprung  a  leak  like  a  well- 
mouth  by  the  outer}'  he  made.  As  far  as  possible  work 
was  confined  to  the  fore  part  of  the  ship,  and  beside  the 
ordinary  routine  little  was  done  but  the  plaiting  of  rope 
yarns  into  sennit — always  a  kill-time.  But  we  were  now 
so  far  north  that  the  variable  weather  of  the  North 
Atlantic  began  to  give  us  plenty  of  occupation  in  the 
working  of  the  ship.  Fortunately  we  were  not  long 
delayed  by  contrary  winds.  The  brave  westerlies  came 
to  our  assistance,  driving  us  along  in  fine  style  and  at 
increasing  speed,  until  one  day  through  the  driving 
mist  we  sighted  Corvo,  one  of  the  northern  outposts  of 
the  Azores.  It  was  fortunate  that  we  did  so,  for  thence- 
forward thickening  weather  and  overcast  skies  prevented 
any  observation  of  the  heavenly  bodies,  and  "  dead 
reckoning"  was  our  only  means  of  knowing  the  ship's 
position.  Now  Captain  Smith,  though  thoroughly  at 
home  on  the  Indian  coasts,  had  a  great  dread  of  his 
own  shores,  and  as  the  distance  from  land  grew  less  he 
became  exceedingly  nervous,  until  at  last,  when  by  his 
estimate  we  were  well  up  Channel,  he  dared  no  longer 
run  as  fast  as  the  following  gale  would  have  driven  him, 
but  shortened  sail,  much  to  every  one  else's  disgust. 
Ship  after  ship  came  up  astern,  passed  us,  and  sped  away 
homewards,  while  we  dawdled  through  those  crowded 
waters,  running  the  risk  of  the  fair  wind  blowing  itself 
out  before  we  had  gained  our  port.  Before  we  had 
sighted  land  or  light  it  came  down  a  thick  fog — a  regular 
Channel  fret — which  is  a  condition  of  things  dreaded 
by  all  seamen  on  our  dangerous  coasts.  We  hove-to, 
keeping  the  foghorn   going  with  its  melancholy  bray. 


218  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

Thus  for  sis  mortal  hours  we  lay  helplessly  tossing  in 
the  fairway,  listening  to  the  miserable  discord  of  fog- 
horns, syrens,  and  whistles,  but  unable  to  see  the 
ship's  length  away  from  us.  The  anxiety  was  exceed- 
ingly great,  for  at  any  moment  we  were  liable  to  be  run 
down  by  something  or  another,  whose  commander  was 
more  venturesome  than  ours.  Suddenly  out  of  the 
gloom  came  a  hoarse  hail,  "D'ye  want  a  pilot,  sir?" 
A  sweeter  sound  was  never  heard.  Without  a  moment's 
hesitation  the  old  man  replied,  "  Yes,  where  are  you  ?  " 
He  had  hardly  spoken  before  the  dim  outlines  of  a 
lugger  came  into  view  close  alongside.  "  Are  you  a 
Trinity  pilot  ?  "  asked  the  skipper.  "  No,  sir,  but  I  can 
run  you  up  to  him,"  replied  the  voice.  "  How  much  ?  " 
queried  the  captain.  "  Five  pounds,  sir ! "  came 
promptly  back.  "  All  right,  come  aboard  !  "  said  the 
old  man,  and  all  hands  cro'wded  to  the  side  to  see  our 
deliverer  from  suspense.  "Heave  us  a  line,  please, 
sir!"  came  up  from  the  darkness,  where  we  could  see 
the  shadowy  form  of  the  big  boat  tossing  and  tumbling 
in  the  heavy  sea.  The  main  brace  was  flung  out  to 
her,  and,  as  she  sheered  in  towards  us,  a  black  bundle 
seemed  to  hurl  itself  at  us,  and  in  a  few  seconds  it  stood 
erect  and  dripping  on  deck — a  man  swathed  in  oilskins 
till  he  looked  like  a  mummy.  Only  pausing  to  dash 
the  water  out  of  his  eyes,  he  shouted,  "  Square  the 
mainyard  !  "  and  walking  aft  to  the  helmsman  ordered 
him  to  "  Keep  her  away."  A  minute  before  all  had 
been  miserable  in  the  extreme,  and  the  bitter  gale 
roaring  overhead  seemed  to  be  withering  all  the  life  out 
of  us.  But  what  a  change  !  The  man  seemed  to  have 
brought  fine  weather  with  him ;  the  perfect  confidence 


HOMEWARD    TO   LONDON.  219 

that  every  one  bad  iu  him  dispelling  every  gloomy 
thought.  The  lesson  of  that  little  episode,  so  common- 
place, yet  so  full  of  instruction,  has  never  been  forgotten 
by  me.  It  is  so  palpable  that  I  dare  not  enlarge 
uj)on  it. 

Meanwhile  one  of  the  lugger's  crew  had  followed  his 
chief,  and  was  busy  begging  tobacco,  meat,  and  anj^- 
thing  else  the  steward  could  find  to  part  with.  "When 
he  had  got  all  he  could,  the  lugger  sheered  in  again, 
and  he  tumbled  back  on  board  with  his  booty.  Very 
soon  the  fog  cleared  away,  and  as  soon  as  it  did  so  we 
saw  the  light  on  Dungeness  close  aboard.  We  ran  up 
to  the  pilot's  cruising  ground  and  hove-to,  burning  a 
blue  light  as  a  signal,  while  our  friendly  hoveller 
pocketed  his  five  pounds  and  departed,  well  pleased 
with  his  four  hours'  earnings.  These  men  get  called 
some  very  hard  names,  and  may  perhaps  occasionally 
deserve  them ;  but  as  long  as  sailing-ships  exist  they 
will  be  found,  as  we  undoubtedly  found  one,  a  very 
present  help  in  time  of  need  and  the  salvation  of  many 
a  fine  ship. 

The  Trinity  pilot  was  some  time  making  his  appear- 
ance, for  there  were  many  ships  about,  and  we  must 
needs  await  our  turn.  But  in  due  time  we  were 
supplied,  the  yards  were  again  squared,  and  away  we 
went  around  the  Foreland.  Presently  there  was  a 
welcome  sound  of  paddle-wheels,  and  up  came  a  tug 
anxious  for  the  job  of  towing  us  up  to  London.  But 
our  captain's  Scotch  economy  forbade  him  to  take 
steam  while  there  was  so  much  fair  wind  going  for 
nothing ;  and  the  subsequent  haggling  was  almost  as 
protracted  as  Bill's  celebrated  feat  in  Bombay.     At  last. 


220  THE  LOO    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

after  two  or  three  departures  of  the  tug  in  fits  of 
irritation,  a  bargain  was  struck,  and  the  ever-welcome 
command  came  pealing  forward,  "  Get  the  hawser 
along  !  "  No  need  to  call  all  hands.  Everybody  came 
on  the  jump,  and  that  mighty  rope  was  handled  as  if 
it  had  been  a  lead-line.  In  a  wonderfully  short  time 
the  end  was  passed  to  the  tug,  a  severe  turn  was  taken 
with  our  end  round  the  windlass  bitts,  and  with  what 
the  sailor  calls  "a  fair  wind  ahead,"  we  went  spinning 
up  through  the  intricate  channels  of  the  Thames 
estuary.  All  hands  worked  with  a  will  to  get  the  sails 
clewed  up  and  unbent  from  the  yards,  as  it  was  now 
daylight.  Such  a  morning's  work  had  not  been  done 
on  board  for  many  a  day,  for  was  not  the  end  of  the 
voyage  here.  As  for  me,  I  was  continually  in  hot 
water,  for  I  could  not  keep  my  eyes  off  the  wonderful 
scenes  through  which  we  were  passing.  It  was  my 
fii-st  home-coming  to  London  by  sea,  and  on  the  two 
previous  occasions  of  leaving,  I  had  either  no  heart  to 
look  about  me  or  I  had  come  down  at  night.  Just 
stopping  at  Gravesend  long  enough  to  exchange  pilots, 
since  the  sea  pilot  never  takes  a  ship  into  dock,  we  sped 
onward  again,  the  tug  straining  every  nerve  to  save  the 
tide.  Soon  everything  was  ready  for  docking,  and  all 
hands  were  allowed  to  "stand  by,"  resting  until  we 
should  reach  Blackwall. 

The  East  India  Docks  at  last,  with  the  usual  little 
group  of  expectant  yet  nonchalant  officials  and  the 
loafers  in  the  background.  Ai-e  we  going  to  dock  at 
once,  or  will  she  tie  up  in  the  basin  ?  As  anxiously 
as  if  docking  was  going  to  take  a  month  were  these 
questions  bandied  about,  so  eager  were  all  the  fellows 


HOMEWARD    TO   LONDON.  221 

to  get  ashore.  Joy  ! — she  is  hauled  in  to  the  side  of 
the  basin,  made  fast  temporarily,  and  the  mate,  with 
a  merry  twinkle  in  his  eye,  says  the  closing  benediction, 
"  That'll  do,  men."  By  this  time  the  voracious  crowd 
of  boarding-masters'  runners,  tailors'  ditto,  and  un- 
classified scoundrels  were  swarming  on  board  (it  was 
before  the  beneficent  regulations  were  passed  forbidding 
these  gentry  to  board  an  in-coming  ship),  and  the  fore- 
castle was  a  perfect  pandemonium.  But  one  by  one 
the  chaps  emerged  with  their  dunnage,  and  were  carried 
oft'  in  triumph  by  one  or  other  of  the  sharks,  until,  the 
last  one  having  gone,  we  of  the  half- deck  were  left  in 
peace.  And  now  I  icas  home  what  was  I  going  to  do  ? 
1  felt  like  a  stranger  in  a  strange  land,  and  it  was  with 
a  sense  of  great  relief  that  I  accepted  an  invitation  to 
stay  by  the  ship  for  the  present. 


222  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 


CHAPTEE  XIX. 

A    CHANGE    OF    NATIONALITY. 

Much  as  I  longed  for  my  liberty,  the  certain  sense  of 
a  home  afforded  by  the  ship  was  so  comforting  that  I 
■was  in  considerable  dread  of  the  time  when,  as  I  sup- 
posed, I  should  be  paid  off  and  sent  adrift  like  the  rest 
of  the  crew.  Therefore  it  was  with  joy  that  I  received 
the  welcome  news  from  the  mate  that  I  might  remain 
and  work  by  the  ship,  and  that  my  wages  would  be 
fourteen  shillings  a  week,  out  of  which  I  was  to  keep 
myself.  The  future,  which  had  begun  to  worry  me 
greatly  with  its  possibilities  of  misfortune,  owing  to  my 
still  insignificaut  size,  now  took  a  decidedly  roseate  hue. 
My  arch-enemy  (as  I  considered  him),  the  second  mate, 
became  quite  amiable,  even  condescending  to  inform 
me  that  the  plenteous  kicks  and  cuffs  he  had  bestowed 
upon  me  had  all  been  prompted  by  a  sincere  desire  for 
my  best  interests,  and  that,  before  I  was  much  older, 
I  should  thank  him  heartily  for  his  rigorous  treatment. 
In  this  latter  prophecy  he  was  grossly  in  error,  for  I 
have  never  been  able  to  find  any  excuse  for  the  brutality 
of  a  man  to  the  helpless  who  cbance  to  be  in  his  power, 
whether  human  or  brute. 


A    CITANOE  OF  NATIONALITY.  223 

Pay-day  came  and  I  received  my  account  of  wages, 
finding  that  I  was  entitled  to  nine  golden  sovereigns. 
At  the  appointed  hour  I  made  my  way  up  the  East 
India  Dock-road  to  Green's  Home,  where  I  foregathered 
with  most  of  my  shipmates,  who  were  dogged  by  vil- 
lainous-looking men  as  closely  as  if  they  were  criminals 
out  for  an  airing.  While  waiting,  they  made  frequent 
visits  to  the  public-house  at  the  back  of  the  office,  which 
fairly  hummed  with  the  accumulated  rascality  of  the 
neighbourhood.  But  for  the  danger  of  actions  for  libel, 
I  would  tell  some  pretty  little  stories  of  what  I  have 
seen  in  some  of  the  highly  respectal)le  (see  evidence 
before  the  Licensing  Committees)  liquor-shops  in 
"  sailor  town."  But  I  must  refrain,  comforting  myself 
with  the  knowledge  that  such  tales  have  already  been 
better  told  elsewhere.  When  at  last  my  turn  came,  and 
I  received  that  little  pile  of  gold — more  money  than  I 
had  ever  seen  at  one  time  before — I  was  almost  afraid 
of  being  the  possessor  of  so  much  wealth.  And  know- 
ing well,  as  I  did,  the  risk  I  ran  if  any  one  got  an 
inkling  of  my  riches,  did  not  lessen  my  fears.  I  did 
not  think  of  the  Post  Office,  strange  to  say ;  but,  in  a 
few  minutes,  formed  a  resolution  to  lay  all  my  money 
out  in  a  stock  of  clothes — which,  indeed,  I  was  urgently 
in  need  of — and  depend  upon  my  weekly  earnings  from 
the  ship  to  keep  me.  The  thought  of  losing  my  emjdoy- 
ment  never  seems  to  have  dawned  upon  me.  Full  of 
my  project,  I  started  for  Aldgate ;  but  brought  up 
sharply  at  the  Baths  before  I  had  gone  a  hundred 
yards.  A  nice  warm  bath — what  a  luxury !  In  I  went 
and  enjoyed  myself  immensely.  In  about  half  an  hour 
I  was  out  again  and  walking  briskly  westward,  when 


224  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

I  stopped  to  make  some  trifling  purchase — to  find  my 
money  gone,  purse  and  all.  On  the  instant  I  turned 
and  rushed  back  to  the  Baths,  flew  past  the  doorkeeper, 
and  up  the  corridor  towards  the  bath  I  had  recently 
left.  The  door  stood  wide  open,  and  there  was  my 
purse  on  the  seat,  with  the  money  intact.  I  grabbed 
it  and  drew  a  long  breath,  the  first,  it  seemed  to  me, 
since  I  missed  it.  Going  out,  I  met  an  angry  man  at 
the  door,  who  was  anxious  to  know  what  I  thought  I  was 
up  to,  and  so  on.  A  shilling  assuaged  all  his  curiosity 
and  lit  up  his  lowering  face  with  sudden  smiles.  Clutch- 
ing my  purse,  I  made  all  the  haste  I  could  to  Messrs. 
Moses  and  Sons,  arriving  there  with  a  sigh  of  thankful- 
ness. I  didn't  feel  capable  of  owning  so  much  money, 
much  less  taking  care  of  it.  A  gorgeously  attired 
individual  strode  forward  with  an  ironical  air  of  courtesy 
as  I  entered,  and,  bowing  low,  wished  to  know  my 
pleasure.  Ah !  if  I  was  going  to  spend  all  my  money, 
here  was  at  least  a  chance  to  taste  the  sweets  of  that 
power  which  its  possession  brings.  With  all  the 
hauteur  I  could  assume,  I  said,  as  I  swelled  my  four 
feet  of  stature  in  opposition  to  the  shopwalker's  majestic 
presence,  ''  I  want  an  outfit,  something  plain  and  sub- 
stantial ;  say  about  nine  or  ten  pounds."  And  as  I  spoke 
I  secretly  emptied  my  purse  in  my  pocket,  and,  drawing 
out  a  few  sovereigns  nonchalantly,  I  passed  them  through 
my  fingers  and  dropped  them  into  another  pocket.  Out 
of  the  corner  of  my  eye  I  watched  my  gentleman's  face. 
All  his  sarcastic  attitude  vanished,  and  for  the  time  he 
was  my  obsequious,  humble  servant.  But  oh !  how 
shamelessly  he  made  me  pay  for  his  attendance.  Even 
after  this  lapse  of  years  I  blush  to  think  how  I  was 


A    CHANGE   OF   NATIONALITY.  225 

taken  in — the  shoddy  rags  which  I  received  for  my  gokl, 
and  the  swelKng  pride  with  which  I  ordered  them  to  be 
sent  down  to  mij  sliip.  When  I  left  the  huge  shop  I 
felt  quite  an  important  personage,  although  I  had  but 
live  shillings  left  out  of  my  year's  wages.  Still,  such 
as  the}^  were,  I  had  a  complete  stock  of  clothing,  in- 
cluding a  chest  and  bedding,  oilskins  and  sea-boots ;  in 
fact,  such  an  outfit  as  I  had  never  owned  before.  When 
I  returned  on  board  I  informed  Bill  of  my  purchases. 
He  applauded  my  resolution,  but  blamed  me  for  not 
keeping  a  little  money  in  case  of  an  emergency — he 
always  did  himself,  he  said.  For  a  fortnight,  however, 
I  found  no  reason  to  regret  my  precipitate  action. 
Then,  on  a  Saturday  afternoon,  came  the  stunning 
intelligence  that,  as  there  was  no  more  work  to  be  done, 
I  was  no  longer  wanted.  Fortunately  I  had  saved 
enough  out  of  my  weekly  wage  to  pay  for  a  w'eek's 
board;  so  I  immediately  made  my  way  to  my  old 
boarding-house  in  the  West  India  Dock-road,  and  was 
received  with  open  arms.  I  paid  my  twelve  shillings 
down  manfully,  telling  the  master  that  I  wanted  a  ship 
as  soon  as  possible.  After  finding  out  by  cross-exami- 
nation that  I  had  been  paid  off  with  nine  pounds,  he 
was  much  less  cordial.  In  fact,  he  grumbled  a  good 
deal ;  but  finally  promised  to  do  his  best  to  get  me  a 
ship  at  once.  Fortunately  (as  I  thought  at  the  time), 
before  the  week  was  out,  I  got  a  berth  on  board  a  large 
American  ship — the  Pharos  of  Boston — which  was  lying 
in  the  South-West  India  Dock,  loading  general  cargo 
for  Melbourne.  As  she  was  only  about  half  full,  I 
begged  permission  to  come  and  work  on  board  for  my 
food,  so  that  I  should  not  get  into  debt  at  the  boarding- 

Q 


226  THE   LOG    OF  A   SEA- WAIF. 

bouse.  The  mate,  who  engaged  mo,  readily  granted 
my  request ;  in  fact,  he  seemed  to  take  no  interest  in 
the  matter.  So  I  took  up  my  quarters  on  board, 
becoming  great  friends  immediately  with  the  amiable 
old  mulatto  steward,  who,  besides  being  a  most  valuable 
servant,  was  a  deeply  religious  man  according  to  his 
lights. 

And  now  my  lines  were  cast  in  truly  pleasant  places. 
I  had  heard  of  the  good  times  enjoyed  by  boys  in 
American  ships — such  floating  hells  for  their  crews  as 
a  rule — and  my  experiences  at  present  fully  bore  out  the 
truth  of  my  information.  But  I  very  soon  saw  that  all 
was  not  right  on  board.  The  mate  was  utterly  neg- 
lectful of  the  cargo,  spending  most  of  his  time  tippling 
in  his  berth  with  all  sorts  of  visitors.  The  second  mate, 
a  stalwart  j^outli  of  twenty,  busied  himself  constantly 
with  the  rigging,  studiously  avoiding  any  encroachment 
upon  the  mate's  province  of  attending  to  the  shipment 
of  the  cargo.  The  captain  rarely  appeared.  He  was  a 
very  old  man,  with  an  awful  scowl,  and,  although 
bearing  himself  erect,  and  smart-looking,  was  evidently 
long  past  the  efficient  performance  of  his  duties.  The 
only  other  members  of  the  crew  on  board  were  the 
carpenter,  a  Finn  of  about  sixty  years  of  age,  and 
the  cook,  a  garrulous  Dane,  who  spent  most  of  his  time 
yarning  at  the  galley  door  with  a  huge  knife  in  one 
hand  as  if  it  were  his  sceptre.  A  good  deal  of  drinking 
went  on  about  that  galley,  and  often  at  knock-off  time 
the  stevedores  had  much  ado  to  get  ashore,  so  drunk 
were  they.  At  last  the  mate  left — how  or  why  I  do  not 
know — and  from  thenceforward  no  pretence  was  made  of 
talhdng  in  the  cargo  at  all.     Not  until  three  days  before 


A    CHANGE  OF  NATIONALITY.  227 

she  was  advertised  to  sail  did  we  get  another  mate,  a 
prim  little  man,  who  had  been  long  master  of  English 
ships,  and  looked  like  a  fish  out  of  water  on  board  the 
Pliaros. 

Shipj)ing  day  came,  and,  leaving  the  second  mate, 
steward,  and  carpenter  (who  were  on  the  original 
articles)  on  board,  the  rest  of  us  went  down  to  a  shop 
in  Eatcliff  Highway  to  "  sign  on."  It  was  a  Jew  tailor's, 
of  all  places  in  the  world,  and  never  shall  I  forget  my 
astonishment  at  the  sight  it  presented.  When  we 
got  there  the  shop  was  full  of  as  motley  a  crowd  of 
scallawags  as  one  could  collect  anywhere.  Apparently 
they  were  shipping  in  some  other  American  ship,  from 
the  scraps  of  conversation  I  heard.  Presently  one  of 
the  fellows  asked  a  question  of  the  sturdy-looking 
Israelite  behind  the  counter.  Looking  up  from  his 
book,  that  worthy  said  fiercely,  "Get  out !  "  The  man 
hesitated,  and  muttered  some  reply.  With  a  howl  like 
an  enraged  tiger  the  tailor  snatched  up  a  pair  of  shears 
and  sprang  over  the  counter  after  him.  There  was  a 
regular  scuffle  among  the  crowd  for  a  few  seconds,  as 
the  thoroughly  scared  candidate  rushed  for  the  door, 
just  succeeding  in  making  his  escape  as  the  vengeful 
Jew  reached  the  pavement.  In  another  second  the 
tailor  was  back  at  his  book  as  if  nothing  had  happened. 
But  I  noticed  that  nobody  asked  any  more  questions, 
except  one  man,  whom  I  took  to  be  the  captain  of  the  ship 
signing  on.  After  some  little  confusion  the  first  crowd 
took  their  departure,  and  another  assortment  took  their 
places,  ready  to  sign  in  the  Pliaros.  The  whole  pro- 
ceedings were^an  utter  farce,  though  with  a  semblance 
of  legality ;  but  what  surprised  me  most  of  all  was  that 


228  THE  LOG    OF   A   SEA-WAIF. 

each  man  received,  ^Ylletllel'  be  wanted  it  or  not,  two 
months'  advance  in  the  form  of  a  promissory  note, 
payable  at  this  shop  three  days  after  the  ship  left 
Gravesend.  Only  three  out  of  the  whole  crowd  signed 
their  names,  the  rest  modestly  made  their  mark,  and 
the  tailor  wrote  down  such  fantastic  designations  as  his 
fancy  suggested.  Then  one  of  his  assistants  marshalled 
us  all  together  like  a  flock  of  sheep,  and  convoyed  us  to 
the  office  of  the  American  Consul-General  in  the  city, 
where,  in  wholesale  fashion,  we  were  made  citizens  of 
the  United  States  of  America.  The  ceremony  was 
no  sooner  over  than  we  were  told  to  go,  but  sharply 
reminded  of  the  hour  of  sailing.  Our  guide  mysteriously 
disappeared,  leaving  us  to  find  our  way  back  to  sailor- 
town  as  best  we  could. 

To  my  surprise  and  gratification  I  found  myself 
shipped  as  an  ordinary  seaman,  at  thirty  shillings  per 
month,  three  pounds  of  which  I  already  held  in  the 
form  of  a  "promise  to  pay."  I  immediately  hastened 
to  my  boarding-house  to  get  the  said  paper  converted 
into  money,  but,  as  I  didn't  owe  him  anything,  the  master 
refused  to  touch  it,  and  further  favoured  me  with  his 
opinion  that  I  shouldn't  find  anybody  who  would  give 
me  more  than  ten  shillings  for  it.  Somewhat  alarmed 
at  this,  I  hurried  to  various  places  where  they  professed 
to  discount  seamen's  advance  notes,  finding,  to  my 
amazement,  that  he  had  spoken  the  truth.  Then  I 
suddenly  remembered  an  old  acquaintance  with  whom 
I  had  become  friendly,  and  who,  being  a  tradesman, 
might  be  able  to  change  my  note.  Off  to  him  I  hurried, 
finding  him  both  able  and  willing ;  so  I  got  my  three 
pounds  in  full.    But  I  afterwards  learnt  that  the  highest 


A    CHANGE  OF  NATIONALITY.  229 

amount  any  of  the  sailors  had  been  able  to  get  for  their 
notes  of  six  pounds  had  been  two  pounds  ten  shillings, 
and  of  this  a  goodly  portion  had  to  be  taken  out  in  clothes. 
And  this  I  was  told  was  because  of  the  uncertainty 
attaching  to  the  payment  of  these  notes  when  they  were 
presented.  Under  such  conditions  there  was  little  room 
for  wonder  that  cases  of  disappearance  of  the  men  who 
had  obtained  these  advance  notes  were  frequent.  It 
was  no  unusual  thing  for  half  of  a  crew  to  be  missing 
when  a  vessel  sailed,  when,  of  course,  those  who  had 
given  anything  for  the  notes  lost  their  money  beyond 
hope  of  recovery. 

Although  it  seems  premature  to  say  so,  I  feel  bound 
to  add  that  the  friend  who  cashed  my  note  received  his 
money,  when  it  was  due,  without  question.  Seven  of  the 
men  who  signed  on  with  me  did  not  turn  up  on  sailing- 
day,  so  that  we  left  the  dock  shorthanded  to  that  extent. 
We  anchored  at  Gravesend,  however,  and  a  scratch  lot 
of  "hard  cases"  were  found  to  make  up  our  com- 
plement. For  three  days  we  lay  at  the  Red  Buoy 
below  Gravesend,  while  I  wondered  mightily  at  such 
delay,  foreign  altogether  to  my  notions  of  the  despatch 
of  Australian  packets.  But  finally  a  huge  lighter 
painted  a  brilliant  red  came  alongside,  and  imme- 
diately the  order  was  issued  for  all  fire  or  light  of  any 
kind  to  be  extinguished,  as  we  were  going  to  ship  gun- 
powder. As  soon  as  the  officers  were  satisfied  that 
there  was  no  danger  from  a  stray  spark  to  be  appre- 
hended, the  transhipment  began,  and  soon  fifty  tons  of 
explosives  were  transferred  to  the  square  of  our  main 
hatch,  in  cases  and  kegs,  from  which  a  good  deal  of 
loose  powder  was  leaking.     The  stowing  completed,  the 


230  THE   LOO    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

hatch  was  securely  battened  down  for  sea,  the  lighter 
left,  and  the  order  was  given  to  man  the  windlass. 
Hitherto  I  had  been  agreeably  surprised  to  see  how 
quietly  the  work  w^ent  on,  altogether  a  different  state  of 
affairs  to  what  1  had  expected  on  board  a  Yankee  ship. 
But  the  reason  was  not  far  to  seek.  Vicious  as  the 
captain  looked,  he  was  utterly  helpless  to  inaugurate  a 
reign  of  terror  on  board,  for  he  had  no  truculent  set  of 
officers  to  back  him.  The  mate  was  a  quiet,  elderly 
man,  looking  as  unlike  a  seaman  as  possible,  and  cer- 
tainly was  not  the  man  to  develop  into  a  bully.  The 
second  mate  was  too  young,  although  as  smart  a  man 
as  ever  stepped,  to  tackle  the  whole  crew  single-handed, 
even  had  he  felt  disposed  ;  and,  of  course,  the  ancient 
carpenter  counted  for  nothing.  Half  the  crew  were 
exceedingly  hard  citizens,  who  looked  as  if  all  the  ways 
of  "Western  Ocean  blood-boats"  were  familiar  to 
them ;  the  other  half  were  Norwegians  and  Swedes,  who 
were  unable  to  speak  English,  and  ready  to  endure  any 
kind  of  brutality,  at  w^hoever's  hands  it  might  be  pre- 
sented. Poor  wretches !  had  they  but  known  it,  they 
were  fortunate,  for  the  worst  that  befell  them  was  being 
treated  as  boys  by  the  hard-bitten  members  of  the  crew, 
and  made  to  wait  on  them  hand  and  foot.  On  deck 
their  lives  were  easy  enough  and  the  food  was  really 
good. 

In  order  to  save  the  skipper  trouble,  I  suppose,  we 
had  a  Channel  pilot  on  board  to  take  the  ship  as  far 
as  Portland.  He,  poor  man,  was  sadly  out  of  his 
element  with  the  skipper,  whom  he  early  described,  to 
the  half-dozen  passengers  we  carried,  as  an  unmitigated 
hog.     Still  there  was   no    open  breach    between   them 


A    CHANGE  OF  NATIONALITY.  231 

until  we  arrived  off  the  Wight.  Then  when  the  pilot 
altered  the  course  (we  had  been  coming  down  in  mid- 
channel),  to  close  in  with  the  land,  the  old  man  walked 
up  to  the  helmsman  and  sternly  ordered  him  to  resume 
the  course  he  had  been  steering,  right  down  the  centre 
of  the  Channel.  Of  course  there  was  an  explosion. 
The  pilot  protested  in  no  measured  terms  against  this 
behaviour,  sajdng  that,  as  his  contract  was  performed, 
he  was  anxious  to  be  put  ashore.  The  captain,  however, 
treated  him  with  cool  insolence,  assuring  him  that  he 
wasn't  going  one  mile  out  of  his  way  to  land  him,  and 
the  utmost  he  would  do  would  be  to  put  him  on  board 
any  homeward-bounder  we  might  pass  near  enough. 
This  nearly  drove  the  pilot  frantic.  We  could  hear  him 
all  over  the  ship.  But,  for  all  the  impression  he  made 
upon  the  venerable  Yankee,  he  might  as  well  have 
saved  his  breath.  Then  there  was  trouble  with  the 
passengers.  They  had  been  led  to  believe  that  they 
would  be  sumptuously  fed  and  waited  upon,  the  char- 
terers in  London  having  painted  in  glowing  colours  the 
comforts  sure  to  be  met  with  in  so  large  a  ship  for 
seven  passengers.  Now,  however,  they  found  that  even 
the  cooking  of  their  food  was  a  privilege  for  which  they 
must  fee  the  cook,  the  steward  was  forbidden  to  wait 
upon  them,  and  they  were  entirely  thrown  upon  their 
own  resources.  When  they  complained  to  the  captain  he 
calmly  told  them  that  their  difficulties  were  no  concern 
of  his ;  he  had  quite  sufficient  annoyance  in  seeing 
them  occupying  his  saloon,  which  he  could  assure  them 
was  intended  for  the  reception  of  a  very  different  class 
of  people  to  them.  Happily  they  were  all  fairly  well 
used   to   roughing  it,   and  so  they  sensibly  set   about 


232 


THE   LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 


making  the  best  of  their  very  bad  bargain,  and  thence- 
forward ignored  the  scowHng  skipper  altogether.  The 
unfortunate  pilot  was  kept  on  board  five  days,  and 
finally  put  on  board  a  homeward-bound  Mediterranean 
steamer  that  we  spoke  half-way  across  the  Bay.  As  he 
went  over  the  side  he  hurled  his  opinion  of  the  skipper 
back  at  him,  his  voice  rising  higher  and  higher,  until 
he  was  no  longer  audible,  to  the  huge  delight  of 
passengers  and  crew  alike. 


(     233     ) 


CHAPTEE   XX. 

THE    PASSAGE    TO    MELBOURNE. 

We  were  now  fairly  on  the  voyage,  and  it  must  be 
confessed  at  the  outset  that  the  work  of  the  ship,  in 
spite  of  the  paucity  of  officers,  went  on  with  automatic 
regularity.  No  disturbance  of  any  kind  marred  the 
general  peace,  all  hands  seeming  well  content  to  do 
their  duty  quietly,  although  fully  aware  of  the  weakness 
of  the  afterguard.  My  own  position  was  a  queer  one. 
Although  I  was  on  the  articles  as  an  ordinary  seaman, 
and  slept  in  the  forecastle  among  the  men,  neither  of 
the  officers  ever  gave  me  any  work  to  do,  and  I  was 
compelled  in  self-defence  to  fall  back  upon  my  old 
friend  the  steward  for  something  to  occupy  my  time.  I 
had  all  my  food  with  him,  and  whenever  I  could  do  so 
without  fear  of  being  discovered  by  the  captain,  he 
allowed  me  to  perform  a  few  small  offices  for  the 
unfortunate  passengers.  Before  we  had  been  a  fort- 
night out,  a  circumstance,  which  I  dare  not  hint  at  the 
nature  of,  compelled  me  to  give  up  my  quarters  in  the 
forecastle  and  take  refuge  in  the  cabin,  where  I  spread 
my  nightly  couch  under  the  saloon  table.  The  captain 
never  seemed  to  notice  my  existence  at  all,  at  which  I 


234  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

used  to  wonder  much ;  but  feeling  that  obscurity  was 
not  a  bad  thing  for  me,  I  kept  out  of  his  way  as  much 
as  possible.  I  do  not  think  it  would  be  possible  to  find 
a  more  perfect  representation  of  Bunyan's  "Pope" 
than  he  was.  Whenever  he  looked  at  one  of  the  men 
his  scowl  was  shocking,  almost  murderous,  and  he  was 
continually  snarling  at  the  mate  for  not  using  violence 
towards  them.  But  the  first  gale  we  encountered 
revealed  a  new  and  still  more  unpleasant  side  of  his 
character.  Although  the  ship  was  new,  and  staunch  as 
faithful  building  could  make  her,  her  equipment  in  all 
details  of  the  very  best  procurable,  I  was  astonished  to 
see  how  rapidly  sail  was  reduced,  as  if  she  had  been  the 
veriest  poverty-stricken  old  hulk  that  ever  was  sent  to 
sea  to  sink.  Long  before  the  gale  attained  its  height  she 
was  "fore-reaching"  under  a  main  lower-topsail  and 
storm  staysails,  and  he,  the  commander,  like  an  unquiet 
spirit,  was  prowling  incessantly  about  the  cabin,  or  pacing 
restlessly  in  front  of  the  wheel.  In  one  hand  he  held 
a  large  plug  of  tobacco,  from  which  his  trembling  fingers 
tore  leaf  after  leaf  and  crammed  them  into  his  mouth 
until  it  would  hold  no  more.  Then  he  would  pause  for 
a  moment  at  the  lee  rail  and  disgorge,  only  to  resume 
his  feeding  an  instant  later.  He  even  consulted  the 
poor  old  steward,  asking  him,  in  quite  familiar  tones, 
whether  he  thought  the  gale  was  taking  off,  although  at 
other  times  he  spoke  to  him  rather  more  brutally  than 
a  costermonger  would  do  his  donkey.  But  the  crowning 
act  of  almost  lunatic  fear  was  to  come.  I  was  doing 
something  in  his  beautiful  state-room,  when  I  heard 
him  descending  the  ladder.  I  could  not  get  out  without 
passing  him,  so  I  hid  myself  behind  a  curtain,  feeling 


THE   PASSAGE    TO   MELBOURNE.  235 

sure  that  he  would  not  remain  there  more  than  a 
minute.  Peeping  cautiously  out,  I  saw  him  standing 
gazing  fixedly  at  a  large  print  of  the  Lord's  Prayer  that 
adorned  one  of  the  panels.  Presently  he  burst  out  into 
the  most  terrible  blasphemies :  guttural  cursings  that 
sent  cold  chills  of  horror  chasing  one  another  over  my 
scalp.  Then  he  began  to  moan  pitifully,  as  if  in  pain, 
and  suddenly,  to  my  intense  relief,  he  hurriedly  went 
on  deck  again.  I  fled  in  to  the  steward,  shaking  from 
head  to  foot,  and  told  him  what  I  had  heard.  "  Doan 
tak'  no  notice,  honey,"  said  the  kind  old  fellow.  "  I 
guess  he's  a-gettin'  mighty  ole  'n  scared,  so's  he  don' 
know  haef  wat  he  sez.  Ennyhaow,  we  cain't  he'p  his 
cussedness,  'n  de  good  Lawd  ain't  a-gwine  ter  mek  us 
pay  fer  him.  I  knows  Him  better'n  dat.  Don  yew 
lissen  t'im  no  mo',  sonny,  ef  yew  kin  he'p  it."  Little 
need  to  tell  me  that,  I  thought.  There  was  really 
nothing  extraordinary  in  the  gale.  Even  the  pas- 
sengers, apart  from  the  discomfort  of  their  surround- 
ings, were  unmoved  by  it,  for  the  splendid  vessel 
behaved  herself  grandly,  hardly  shipping  a  drop  of 
water.  Gradually  the  wind  took  off;  but  not  until 
every  trace  of  bad  weather  was  out  of  the  sky  was  any 
attempt  made  to  set  sail  again.  And  when  at  last 
orders  were  given  to  loose  the  topsails  and  staysails, 
the  captain  seemed  half  afraid  of  his  own  temerity, 
although  two  or  three  vessels  passed  us  with  every 
stitch  set,  their  crews  lining  the  bulwarks  to  stare  at  us 
in  wonder  as  to  why  we  were  thus  wasting  the  fine  fair 
wind. 

This  cautious  navigation,  however,  troubled  nobody 
but  the  passengers ;  and  even  they  were  less  disturbed 


236 


THE    LOG    OF   A    SEA- WAIF. 


by  it  than  they  would  have  been  had  they  known  any- 
thing of  the  ship's  position.  But  that  no  one  in  the 
ship  knew,  with  any  certainty,  except  the  old  fellow 
himself;  for  he  navigated  the  vessel,  and  did  not 
allow  the  mate  to  take  an  observation,  treating  him  in 
this  matter,  as  in  all  others,  with  a  contempt  almost 
too  great  for  words.  Why,  no  one  could  tell ;  for  Mr. 
Small  was  a  good  officer  and  seaman,  keeping  the  ship 
in  perfect  order,  and  attending  to  all  his  duties  in  a 
most  exemplary  way.  The  only  reason  that  could  be 
imagined  for  the  captain's  behaviour  to  him  was  that 
he  had  none  of  the  loud-voiced  bully  about  him,  and 
utterly  refused  to  beat,  kick,  or  swear  at  any  member 
of  the  crew.  One  thing  was  especially  noticeable : 
neither  of  the  officers  ever  went  forward  of  the  men's 
quarters  after  dark,  unless  absolutely  compelled  to  do 
so  in  the  course  of  trimming  or  setting  sail.  This 
reluctance,  on  their  part,  to  venture  into  what  they  had 
come  to  look  upon  as  the  men's  part  of  the  deck,  was  of 
the  greatest  assistance  to  the  crew  in  the  pursuit  of 
their  nefarious  schemes  of  plunder,  which  were  carried 
on  here  to  a  greater  extent  than  I  ever  heard  of  else- 
where. It  has  been  already  noticed  that  a  good  deal 
of  drunkenness  was  indulged  in  before  the  vessel  left 
the  dock,  owing  to  the  previous  mate's  total  neglect  of 
dutj^  and  that  this  was  principally  focussed  about  the 
galley.  Now,  it  so  happened  that  the  stock  of  kindling- 
wood  fell  very  low,  and  this  furnished  an  excellent 
excuse  for  the  cook  to  be  much  in  the  fore-hold,  seeking 
such  stray  pieces'  of  dunnage- wood  as  he  might  burn. 
He  was  a  poor  cook,  but  a  superlatively  ingenious 
robber.     For,  finding  that  the  'tween  decks  held  little 


THE  PASSAGE    TO  MELBOURNE.  237 

worth  bis  attention,  lie  wrought  unceasingly  to  get  the 
lower  hatches  lifted — a  tremendous  task,  from  the 
massive  weights  stowed  on  top  of  them.  At  last  he 
succeeded  in  getting  into  the  lower  hold,  and  laying 
open  the  vast  accumulation  of  valuable  cargo  that  lay 
beneath.  Having  done  this  he  informed  the  "  hard- 
case  "  members  of  his  exploit,  and  considerately  ar- 
ranged the  fastenings  on  the  fore-hatch  so  that  they 
could  get  below  when  they  listed.  Thenceforward  that 
forecastle  was  a  scene  of  luxury  such  as  I  believe  has 
never  been  equalled  in  a  merchant  ship.  Wire  chan- 
deliers, fitted  with  massive  wax  candles,  lit  up  the 
usually  darksome  house,  the  burning  of  costly  cigars 
filled  it  with  aroma,  liquors  of  every  kind  were  drunk 
from  tin  pots,  and  at  meal-times  all  sorts  of  canned 
meats,  seasoned  with  various  condiments,  tickled  their 
palates.  Yet,  strange  to  say,  there  was  no  drunkenness. 
One  man,  the  ringleader  in  this  systematic  robbery, 
possessed  sufficient  force  of  character  to  actually  prevent 
any  of  his  shipmates  from  "  giving  the  show  away,"  as 
he  termed  it.  In  consequence,  this  eating  and  drinking 
of  luxuries  went  on  for  fully  three  months,  and  never 
a  whisper  of  the  goings-on  reached  the  officers'  ears. 
Even  the  passengers  shared  in  the  plunder.  Their 
stores,  besides  being  of  bad  quality,  were  so  limited  in 
quantity  and  variety  that  they  were  glad  to  purchase 
from  the  sailors  a  little  of  their  spoil,  asldng  no 
questions  as  to  its  origin.  As  the  various  cases  were 
emptied  the  cook  broke  them  up,  carried  the  fragments 
into  the  galle}^  and  burnt  them,  so  that  no  trace  was 
left  of  the  depredations. 

The  nightly  excursions  below  were   attended   with 


238  TEE  LOG    OF   A    SEA-WAIF. 

awful  risk.  In  the  first  place  the  men  possessed  no 
dark  lantern,  so  they  carried  naked  candles  flaring  in 
their  hands  as  they  crawled  through  the  restricted 
spaces  hetween  the  cargo  and  the  deck  overhead.  And, 
on  first  entering  the  lower  hold,  they  had  to  make  their 
way  over  hundreds  of  drums  of  naphtha.  These  were 
all  sealed,  it  is  true ;  but  had  there  been  one  leaky  can 
in  that  temperature  over  which  a  naked  light  passed  ! 
More  than  that,  in  their  investigations  the  marauders 
penetrated  as  far  aft  as  the  stern,  passing  among  little 
heaps  of  loose  gunpowder  which  had  sifted  through  the 
hatches  of  the  between-decks,  and  writhing  over  kegs  of 
blasting-powder  which  were  stowed  right  across  the 
vessel  amidships.  At  first  they  did  this  unthinkingly  ; 
but  when  they  realized  it  they  still  went  on  as  before. 
No  doubt  this  statement  of  mine  will  stagger  many  who 
have  found  no  difiiculty  hitherto  in  accepting  my  word 
that  this  book  contains  absolutely  nothing  but  the  truth, 
and  is  a  record  of  my  personal  experience.  Neverthe- 
less, I  solemnly  declare  that  I  have  not  deviated  one 
iota  from  the  simple  facts  of  the  case.  What  is  strange 
to  myself  about  it  is  that  I  did  not,  could  not,  then 
realize  what  frightful  danger  we  were  continually  in ; 
but  ever  since,  when  I  recall  the  events  of  that  voyage, 
the  cold  sweat  starts  out  upon  me  and  I  tremble 
violently. 

True  to  his  traditions  the  old  man  kept  north  as 
soon  as  we  were  well  round  the  Cape,  afraid  to  run  the 
easting  down  in  the  usual  latitudes  because  of  the  stern 
vigour  of  the  brave  west  winds.  Consequently,  we 
dawdled  along  with  variable  winds  and  dirty  weather, 
never  keeping  a  steady  breeze  for  more  than  a  day  or 


THE  PASSAGE   TO  MELBOURNE.  239 

two  at  the  outside.     But,  as  the  longest  passage  must 
come  to  an  end  at  last,  when  nearly  four  months  had 
elapsed  since  leaving  London,  a  rumour  ran  round  the 
ship  that  we  were  on  the  meridian  of  Cape  Leeuwin, 
the  south-westernmost  point  of  Australia.     This  put  all 
hands  in  an  exceedingly  good  humour,  and  incidentally 
had  strange  consequences.     Not  that  she  had  ever  been 
an  uncomfortable   ship,  except  for   the  mate  and  the 
passengers.     There  was  never  an  angry  word  or  a  growl 
heard.     Orders  were  executed  with  as  much  alacrity  as 
if  there  had  been  half  a  dozen  belaying-pin-wielding 
officers  prowling  about,   ready   to   knock   any   skulker 
senseless  on  the  instant.      No    doubt  this   was  owing 
to  some   strange   under-current  of  feeling  about  their 
nefarious  proceedings  on  the  part  of  the  crew,  as  if  they 
could,  in  some  measure,  set-off  their  wholesale  robbery 
by  the   prompt,    cheerful    obedience   they   paid  to   all 
orders.     But,  as  I  have  said,  the  report  of  our  nearness 
to  port  sent  a   glow  of  unusual  cheerfulness  through 
the  ship.     Under  its  influence  the  prime  mover  in  the 
plundering  felt  so  benevolent  that  he  actually  went  and 
fetched  a  bottle  of  brandy  out  of  his  chest,  and,  hiding 
it  in  the  breast  of  his  jumper,  brought  it  to  the  old 
carpenter  as  he  sat  solitary  in  his  berth  at  the  after-end 
of  the  forward-house.     Chips  was  profuse  in  his  thanks, 
earnest  in  his  protestations  that  he  would  be  very  care- 
ful not  to  take  too  much  and  so  let  the  officers  into  the 
secret.     No  sooner  was  he  left  alone,  however,  than, 
pouring  himself  out  about  half  a  pint  of  the  glowing 
"  Three  Star,"  he  drank  it  off"  at  a  draught.     His  age 
fell  from  him  like  a  shed  garment.     With  a  strange 
glitter  in  his  eye  he  seized  the  bottle  again,  and  treated 


240  THE  LOG    OF   A    SEA- WAIF. 

this  new  man  that  had  entered  into  him  to  another 
jorum  hke  the  first.  Then,  on  the  instant,  all  the 
contumely  that  he  had  so  long  and  patiently  endured 
from  the  skipper  rushed  into  his  mind — a  hateful 
burden  of  memories  too  heavy  to  he  longer  tamely 
borne.  Flinging  wide  his  door  he  stepped  on  deck  and 
solemnly  marched  aft,  high  determination  apparent  in 
every  motion  of  his  transformed  body.  Halting  before 
the  cabin  door,  he  shouted,  "  Cap'n  Collier,  ye  mouldy- 
headed  old  son  of  a  bitch,  come  out  here  !  I'm  jest  goin' 
ter  lam  de  measly  ole  hed  off'n  ye !  "  The  rest  of  his 
harangue  was  unfit  for  publication.  Sufficient  to  say 
that,  in  spite  of  his  deficient  acquaintance  with  the 
English  language,  he  showed  himself  marvellously  fluent 
in  all  the  quaint  profanity  of  which  Americans  are  the 
acknowledged  masters.  Thrice  was  he  forcibly  removed 
to  his 'berth  by  the  two  officers,  redoubling  his  efforts 
to  induce  the  captain  to  appear,  and  thrice  he  burst 
forth  again  and  clamoured  for  the  old  man's  blood.  At 
last,  seeing  that  nothing  else  would  suffice,  he  was  put 
in  irons,  his  feet  were  lashed  together,  and,  thus  bound, 
he  was  cast  into  his  bunk  to  "  sober  up,"  while  the 
second  mate  searched  his  berth  for  the  fans  ct  or'ujo 
mall.  He  soon  found  it,  and  brought  it  aft  to  the 
captain.  Then  a  close  examination  of  the  fore-hatch 
was  made,  revealing  the  fact  that  it  was  unlocked, 
although  the  cook  swore  that  he  Jiad  always  locked  it 
before  he  returned  the  keys  to  the  second  mate.  How- 
ever, it  was  now  made  secure,  and  the  keys  brought  aft 
and  given  to  the  captain.  Neither  of  the  officers  re- 
membered, though,  that  a  spacious  ventilator  through 
the  fore-part  of  the  house  led  directly  down  into  the 


THE   PASSAGE   TO    MELBOURNE.  241 

hold.  This  was  accordingly  left  unfastened,  and  every 
night  one  or  other  of  the  unhappy  foreigners  were 
compelled  to  slide  down  it  and  pass  up  such  stores  as 
they  could  lay  their  hands  on.  x\nd  so  the  game  went 
merrily  on. 

Meanwhile  the  weather  holding  fine  and  the  wind 
fair,  we  drew  rapidly  nearer  to  the  end  of  the  passage. 
For  my  part,  easy  as  my  lot  had  been,  I  was  thoroughly 
sick  of  it.  I  had  never  been  aloft  all  the  passage,  nor 
had  I  been  allowed  to  take  any  part  in  the  ordinary 
work  of  the  ship.  Consequently  I  felt  as  if  I  were 
losing  all  my  knowledge  of  my  business,  and  I  had 
gloomy  forebodings  of  my  sufferings  in  the  next  ship. 
Moreover  I  felt  very  uneasy  in  my  mind  as  to  the 
probable  outcome  of  the  goings-on  in  the  forecastle  and 
galley.  I  had  been  so  much  amongst  it  that  I  felt  sure 
it  would  be  difficult  for  me  to  clear  myself  if  it  came  to 
court,  and  as  each  day  passed  I  felt  more  and  more 
certain  that  there  would  be  a  wholesale  arrest  as  soon  as 
the  vessel  arrived.  Therefore  I  was  thoroughly  unquiet, 
longing  for  the  passage  to  end,  yet  dreading  the  arrival 
in  port.  But,  so  far  as  I  could  see,  these  dismal  reflec- 
tions troubled  the  crew  not  at  all.  The  seasoned  hands 
had  evidently  prepared  a  plan  of  campaign,  and  had 
made  ample  provision  for  a  lengthy  tramp  up-country, 
by  stocking  their  bags  with  such  preserved  foods  as 
they  fancied.  In  addition  each  man  had  a  fine  gun, 
out  of  a  case  they  had  found,  and  a  goodly  quantity  of 
cigars  and  spirits.  Such  utter  recklessness,  in  the  face 
of  their  probable  wholesale  arrest  before  the  ship  came 
alongside  the  wharf,  was  hard  to  understand ;  yet  so 
they  acted. 


242  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

At  last  the  long-looked-for  light  on  Cape  Otway  was 
sighted,  and  before  a  splendid  westerly  breeze  we  sped 
through  Bass's  Straits,  and  northward  for  Port  Phillip 
Heads.  Without  any  hindrance,  except  to  take  up  a 
pilot,  we  raced  onwards  until  we  reached  the  anchorage 
off  Williamstown,  where,  with  the  red  flag  flying  at  our 
mainmast  head  in  token  of  the  dangerous  nature  of  our 
cargo,  we  brought  up  and  furled  all  sail,  155  days  out 
from  London.  It  was  the  longest  passage  that  any 
vessel  had  made  for  years,  and  great  was  the  astonish- 
ment manifested  by  all  who  boarded  us  to  hear  of  it. 
None  of  them  could  understand  how  it  was  that  so  fine 
a  ship  could  possibly  have  taken  the  time,  especially 
as  another  ship,  belonging  to  the  same  owners,  and 
admittedly  a  much  slower  vessel,  had  been  in  port  a 
fortnight,  having  left  London  one  month  after  us. 
Captain  Collier  told  the  reporters  a  terrible  tale  of  the 
severity  of  our  passage,  which  did  great  credit  to  his 
imagination,  but  left  his  veracity  derelict.  Four  days 
passed  at  the  Williamstown  anchorage  before  we  finally 
got  rid  of  our  powder — days  of  utter  misery  for  every 
one  concerned  in  the  depredations,  for  they  were  in 
momentary  expectation  of  the  arrival  of  a  police-boat 
with  orders  for  their  arrest.  To  this  day  it  is  a  mystery 
to  me  why  this  did  not  happen.  Of  course  the  skipper 
could  not  know  how  far  the  robbery  had  gone,  but  that 
"broaching  of  cargo"  had  been  indulged  in  he  must 
have  been  well  aware.  But  he  was  so  utterly  con- 
temptuous of  all  things  English,  that  he  may  have  felt 
quite  indifferent  as  to  what  became  of  Englishmen's 
property.  As  his  ship  was  chartered  by  a  London  firm 
it  was  doubtless  their  loss.     At  any  rate,  he  did  not 


THE   PASSAGE   TO   MELBOURNE.  243 

trouble  himself  to  order  any  examination  of  the  hold,  or 
make  any  inquiry  into  the  suspicious  circumstances 
that  had  taken  place  on  the  passage.  At  last,  all  being 
ready,  we  weighed  anchor  and  were  towed  over  to  the 
Sandridge  Pier.  We  arrived  there  late  in  the  afternoon, 
so  that  by  the  time  we  were  moored  it  was  dusk.  The 
decks  were  cleared  up,  and  all  hands  sent  to  supper. 
About  an  hour  afterwards  every  man  forrard,  with  the 
exception  of  the  young  foreigners,  who  had  hardly 
learned  English,  shouldered  their  bags  and  walked 
ashore.  The  old  man  was  parading  the  poop  as  the 
row  of  deserters  marched  up  the  pier,  but  he  either  did 
not  or  would  not  see  them.  So  they  disappeared,  and 
we  saw  them  no  more.  Nor  did  we  hear  of  them  again, 
although  two  days  afterwards  a  reward  of  four  pounds 
each  was  offered  for  their  apprehension — a  piece  of  folly 
almost  inconceivable  in  its  fatuity.  Of  course  the  cook 
had  gone  along  with  them,  the  danger  of  his  position 
far  outweighing  the  loss  of  twenty  pounds  in  wages 
which  he  thus  forfeited. 

As  far  as  I  was  concerned,  things  ran  along  as 
smoothly  as  heart  could  wish.  But  I  was  unsettled, 
nor  could  all  the  kindness  of  the  worthy  steward  avail 
to  satisfy  me.  Theoretically,  I  ought  to  have  been 
exceedingly  comfortable.  I  had  literally  nothing  to  do 
but  avoid  the  skipper ;  I  had  thirty  shillings  a  month 
as  wages,  abundance  of  good  food,  and  I  was  on  the 
best  of  terms  with  every  soul  on  board  but  one.  Yet, 
somehow,  I  longed  to  be  out  of  it  all,  and  could  not 
bring  myself  to  face  the  possibility  of  going  to  sea  again 
in  the  ship.  I  took  to  frequenting  the  large  coasting- 
steamers,  which  used  to  lie  at  the  shore  end  of  the  pier, 


244  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WATF. 

and  at  last  made  great  friends  with  the  chief  cook  of 
one  of  them:  the  Woiu/a  Wonga.  This  worthy  was  a 
herculean  negro,  rejoicing  in  the  name  of  Sam  White, 
which,  as  a  piece  of  charcoal  would  have  made  a  white 
mark  on  him,  was  somewhat  inappropriate.  At  the 
close  of  a  delightful  evening  spent  in  his  company  on 
hoard  the  Woiuja  Woiuja,  I  made  bold  to  ask  him  if  he 
could  get  me  a  passage  to  Sydney  with  him.  Oh,  there 
could  be  nothing  easier  than  that,  according  to  him ; 
it  was  only  necessary  for  him  to  speak  the  word,  and 
he  could  take  half  a  dozen  friends  up  with  him.  But 
it  was  usual  to  make  him  a  small  present.  I,  of  course, 
had  no  money ;  but  I  timidly  offered  him  a  gold  scarf- 
pin,  which  had  been  given  me  by  the  passengers  as 
a  present  (I  afterwards  learnt  that  it  was  worth  fifty 
shillings).  He  was  graciously  pleased  to  accept  it,  and 
told  me  to  bring  my  dunnage  along  at  once.  In  a  fever 
of  excitement  I  returned  on  board  tlie  Pharos,  and 
packed  up  all  my  belongings,  now  swollen  to  a  goodly 
heap  by  the  many  articles  of  clothing  given  me  by  the 
passengers  when  they  left.  When  I  had  completed  my 
packing,  I  could  scarcely  drag  the  great  pile  of  chest, 
bag,  and  bundle  along  the  deck,  and  I  dared  not  ask 
any  one  on  board  to  help  me.  But  I  had  plenty  of 
resource ;  so  I  hooked  on  the  yardarm  cargo-tackle  to 
the  lot  (all  well  lashed  together),  and  after  a  struggle 
succeeded  in  hoisting  it  high  enough  to  swing  on  to  the 
wharf,  having  first  seen  that  the  watchman  was  com- 
fortably dozing  in  the  galley.  Very  carefully  I  lowered 
my  precious  cargo  on  to  the  pier,  then  crept  ashore, 
and  dragged  it  under  a  railway  truck,  while  I  went 
back  to  the  Wonrja  Wotir/a,  and  enlisted  the  services  of 


THE   PASSAGE    TO    MELBOUBNE.  245 

the  cook's  mate  to  come  and  carry  it  up  to  their  ship, 
and  place  it  under  Mr.  White's  care.  Then  I  got  my 
final  instructions.  I  was  to  return  on  board  the  Pluiros, 
and  remain  there  till  the  next  day  at  dinner-time,  when 
I  must  hasten  on  board  the  steamer,  where  Mr.  White 
would  receive  me,  and  in  an  hour  I  should  be  on  my 
way  to  Sydney.  Making  my  grateful  acknowledgments, 
I  returned  on  board,  and  upon  a  heap  of  old  canvas 
slept  dreamlessly  until  morning. 


24G  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

I  BECOME  A  COLONIAL  COASTER. 

Surely  never  morning  contained  so  many  hours  as  did 
this  one.  Never  before,  in  all  my  varied  experience,  had 
I  felt  time  to  be  so  leaden-footed.  For,  do  what  I  would, 
the  thought  that  at  the  last  moment  some  hindrance 
would  arise  and  prevent  me  from  following  all  my 
earthly  possessions  would  not  be  put  aside.  My  good 
old  friend,  the  steward,  noted  my  nervous  condition, 
and  at  last  called  me  into  the  pantry  and  asked  me,  in 
kindly,  serious  tones,  what  was  the  matter.  In  a  few 
broken  words  I  told  him  all,  so  fully  did  I  trust  him. 
He  was  silent  for  a  couple  of  minutes,  then  he  said, 
"Well,  Tommy,  my  boy,  I'm  sorry  you'se  gwine  ;  but  I 
couldn't  wish  to  keep  ye  here.  It's  no  place  for  ye. 
And,  alldough  I'm  'fraid  I'm  not  doin'  de  right  ting 
to  let  ye  go,  I  cain't  fine  it  in  me  heart  to  stop  ye.  I 
only  hope  you'll  be  a  good  boy  an'  do  well,  and  I  shall 
pray  God  to  bless  ye.  I  don't  s'pose  you've  got  any 
money,  so  here's  ten  dollars  for  ye.  Don't  let  anybody 
know  you've  got  it,  or  you'll  be  sure  to  get  it  stole  ;  an' 
if  de  times  should  be  bad  in  Sydney  it'll  keep  ye  fur  a 
while.     Good-bye,  my  son."    And  with  that  he  kissed 


/  BECOME  A    COLONIAL    COASTER.  247 

me.  That  broke  me  all  up.  I  declare  that,  never  since 
I  lost  my  dear  old  aunt,  had  I  ever  felt  the  genuine 
thrill  of  human  affection  as  I  felt  it  then  at  the  touch 
of  that  good  old  coloured  man,  whose  memory  I  shall 
cherish  as  long  as  I  live. 

At  last  the  whistle  sounded  for  dinner,  and,  almost 
immediately  after,  I  heard  the  hoarse  notes  of  the 
Wonga  Wonga's  warning  that  she  was  ready  to  depart. 
Like  an  eel  I  glided  over  the  side,  and  off  up  the  pier  I 
ran,  catching  a  glimpse  between  the  trucks  of  the  grim 
figure  of  Captain  Collier  as  he  prowled  up  and  down  the 
sacred  limits  of  his  poop.  "When  I  reached  the  steamer, 
she  was  in  a  great  state  of  bustle.  A  host  of  passengers 
with  their  baggage  were  embarking,  and  it  was  one  of 
the  easiest  of  tasks  to  slip  on  board  unnoticed.  I  rushed 
below  to  the  cook's  quarters,  finding  him  in  the  thick  of 
preparations  for  the  saloon  dinner.  Hardly  looking  at 
me,  he  uttered  a  few  hurried  instructions  :  the  purport 
of  them  being  that  I  must  creep  down  through  a  dim 
alleyway  into  the  chain-locker,  and  there  remain  until 
he  should  send  for  me.  At  the  same  time  he  gave  me 
a  hunk  of  bread  and  meat.  Then  it  dawned  upon 
me  that  I  was  nothing  but  a  ''  stowaway  "  after  all, 
especially  as  he  whispered  a  final  command  to  me  not 
to  mention  his  name  upon  any  account.  It  was  a  shock 
indeed,  but  there  was  no  place  for  repentance ;  I  had 
burned  my  bridges.  So  wriggling  through  the  dark 
crevice  he  had  indicated,  I  wormed  my  way  along  until 
I  reached  the  chain-locker,  where  I  made  myself  as 
comfortable  as  the  rugged  heaps  of  chain-cable  would 
allow.  Overhead  I  heard,  as  if  at  an  immense  distance, 
the  hurry-scurry  of  departure,  and  presently,  that  all- 


248  THE  LOa    OF  A   SEA- WAIF. 

pervading  vibration  following  the  deep  clang  of  the 
engine-room  gong  that  told  me  we  were  off.  Satisfied, 
so  far,  that  I  was  unlikely  to  return,  I  went  to  sleep, 
and,  despite  the  knobby  nature  of  my  couch,  slumbered 
serenely.  How  long  I  had  thus  been  oblivious  of  my 
strange  surroundings  I  don't  know,  but  it  suddenly 
occurred  to  me  that  some  one  was  pulling  my  legs  as 
they  protruded  beyond  the  bulkhead  of  the  chain-locker. 

**  Sailor-man,  by  his  boots,  sir !  "  said  a  gruff  voice, 
answered  by  another,  "  All  right,  rouse  him  up !  " 
Pioused  up  I  was  accordingly,  and,  sliding  forward,  I 
confronted  an  elderly  man  in  uniform,  whom  I  took  to 
be  the  mate,  and  a  stalwart  fellow  in  a  guernsey — 
apparently  a  quarter-master.  In  answer  to  their 
inquiries,  I  told  them  that  I  had  run  away  from  an 
American  ship  at  Sandridge,  and,  being  anxious  to  get 
to  Sydney,  had  stowed  away.  "  Why  didn't  you  come 
and  ask  me  for  a  passage '? "  said  the  officer.  "  I 
didn't  dare  to  risk  a  refusal,"  I  answered.  "Don't  you 
know  you  can  be  punished  for  stowing  away?  "  queried 
my  interlocutor,  severely.  "  No,  sir,"  I  replied,  "  an' 
I  don't  care  much.  I'm  satisfied  to  know  that,  unless 
you  head  me  up  in  a  beef-cask  and  throw  me  overboard, 
I  shall  get  to  Sydney  anyhow."  At  this  impudent 
reply  he  frowned  a  little ;  but  being,  as  I  afterwards 
found,  one  of  the  best-tempered  men  in  the  world,  he 
merely  said,  "  Well,  come  along  on  deck  and  we'll  see 
if  we  can't  find  you  something  to  do." 

Thenceforward  I  was  regarded  as  one  of  the  crew, 
and  very  pleased  I  was  to  find  things  turn  out  so  com- 
fortably. On  the  third  day  out  we  arrived  off  Sydney 
Heads,  and  went  up  the  magnificent  bay  to  the  city 


/  BECOME  A    COLONIAL    COASTEB.  249 

amid  scenes  of  loveliness  that  I  do  not  believe  can 
be  surpassed  by  any  harbour  in  the  wide  world.  Mr. 
White  had  kept  me  at  arm's  length  all  the  passage, 
apparently  prepared  to  deny  all  knowledge  of  me  should 
I  show  any  signs  of  discovering  our  bargain  to  any 
one;  but  now,  as  we  neared  the  A.S.N.  Company's 
wharf,  he  called  me  to  him  and  endeavoured  to  make 
me  believe  that  my  good  treatment  was  entirely  owing 
to  his  having  interested  himself  on  my  behalf.  I  didn't 
believe  a  word  he  said,  but  I  had  thoroughly  learned 
how  unwise  it  was  to  make  enemies  needlessly,  so  I 
pretended  to  be  grateful  for  his  protection.  He  inquired 
what  my  plans  were,  and,  finding  that  I  had  none, 
offered  me  the  hospitality  of  his  home  until  he  should 
be  able  to  find  me  a  berth  in  one  of  the  steamers. 
This  offer  I  accepted,  feeling  glad  to  have  somewhere 
to  go  to  as  well  as  to  avoid  the  necessity  of  breaking 
into  my  little  stock  of  money.  So  we  parted  for  the 
time  on  the  best  of  terms,  and  I  returned  to  my  work 
until  knock-off  time,  when  it  was  understood  that  I 
was  to  accompany  him  ashore.  While  I  was  washing 
I  was  agreeably  surprised  to  be  called  by  the  mate, 
who  with  great  kindness  presented  me  with  a  sovereign, 
and  promised  to  do  his  best  to  get  me  a  berth  as 
lamp-trimmer.  He  also  gave  me  some  good  advice 
as  to  the  company  I  got  into,  warning  me  to  beware 
of  the  larrikins  that  infested  certain  quarters  of  the 
town.  I  thanked  him  as  earnestly  as  I  was  able, 
telling  him  that  I  was  going  to  lodge  for  the  present 
with  one  of  the  crew,  and,  bidding  him  good-bye,  went 
down  the  gangway  and  through  the  warehouse  to  wait 
for  the  cook  as  we  had  arranged.     He  soon  joined  me, 


250  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

followed  by  his  two  mates  bearing  my  chest,  which 
was  put  upon  a  lorry  and  conveyed  up  town.  I  found 
his  wife  a  kindly,  slatternly  white  woman,  and  his 
home  a  weather-board  house  in  Lower  York  Street, 
with  hardly  any  pretensions  to  comfort.  Still,  I  reasoned, 
it  would  do  for  the  time  as  well  as  any  other  place 
I  should  be  likely  to  find,  and,  from  the  stories  I  had 
heard  of  "  down  town"  Sydney,  was  probably  a  great 
deal  safer. 

I  spent  a  week  ashore  wandering  wherever  I  had  a 
mind  to,  and  seeing  the  beautiful  place  thoroughly ;  but 
I  made  no  acquaintances.  One  thing  was  early  im- 
pressed upon  my  mind,  and  subsequent  experience  only 
confirmed  my  belief,  that  Sydney  was  the  most  shame- 
lessly immoral  place  I  had  ever  seen.  That,  of  course, 
was  twenty-seven  years  ago,  so  may  not  be  at  all  the 
case  to-day.  At  the  end  of  the  week  I  was  overjoyed 
to  get  a  berth,  without  anybody's  assistance,  as  lamp- 
trimmer  on  board  a  pretty  little  steamer,  called  the 
Helen  M'Gregor,  that  ran  regularly  between  Sydney  and 
the  town  of  Grafton  on  the  Clarence  Eiver,  calling  at 
Newcastle  and  sundry  places  on  the  river  en  route.  By 
closely  observing  the  duties  of  the  "  lamps  "  on  board 
the  Wonga  Wonga,  I  had  been  fairly  well  prepared  to 
take  such  a  berth ;  but  I  thought,  with  a  bitter  smile, 
how  little  my  sailorizing  would  avail  me  now.  Still, 
the  wages  were  two  pounds  ten  shillings  per  month, 
the  same  as  the  A.B.'s  had  been  paid  on  the  outward 
passage,  so  I  was  well  content. 

My  lamp-room  was  a  mere  cupboard  by  the  side  of 
the  funnel,  on  deck,  and  just  abaft  the  galley.  To  do 
my  work  I  had  to  kneel  on  a  hot  iron  plate  in  front  of 


/  BECOME  A    COLONIAL    COASTER.  251 

the  said  cupboard,  exposed  to  whatever  weather  was 
going.  But  the  cook  had  all  my  sympathies.  In  his 
tiny  caboose  he  had  to  prepare  meals  for  seventy  or 
eighty  people,  while  all  his  pastry-making,  butchering, 
etc.  (for  we  carried  live  sheep  and  fowls  with  us),  must 
needs  be  done  on  deck.  Now  the  vessel,  though  exceed- 
ingly pretty  to  look  at  in  harbour,  was  utterly  unfit  to 
cope  with  the  tremendous  seas  that  sweep  along  the 
eastern  shores  of  Australia.  Somewhere,  in  one  of 
Henry  Kingsley's  books  (the  "  Hillyars  and  Burtons," 
I  think),  he  speaks  of  a  little  steamer  climbing  one  of 
those  gigantic  seas  like  a  bat  clinging  to  a  wall.  That 
was  a  common  experience  of  ours.  Her  motions  were 
frightful.  I  have  seen  every  soul  on  board  sea-sick 
while  she  crawled  up,  up,  up  one  mountainous  wave 
after  another,  plunging  down  into  the  abysses  between 
them  as  if  she  would  really  turn  a  complete  summer- 
sault. Everybody  was  black  and  blue  with  being  flung 
about,  and  the  passengers,  who  had  perforce  to  be 
battened  down  in  the  sweltering  saloon,  or  second  cabin, 
suffered  misery  untellable.  Yet  even  that  wretchedness 
had  its  ludicrous  side.  To  see  our  fierce  little  hunch- 
back cook  astride  of  a  half-skinned  sheep,  to  which  he 
held  on  with  a  death-like  grip,  his  knife  between  his 
teeth  and  a  demoniacal  glare  in  his  eye,  careering  fore 
and  aft  in  a  smother  of  foam,  surrounded  by  the  debris 
of  the  preparing  dinner,  made  even  men  half  dead  with 
fatigue  and  nausea  laugh.  But  it  was  terrible  work. 
As  for  me,  I  got  no  respite  at  all  at  night.  For  I  had 
to  keep  the  lamps  burning ;  and  she  thought  nothing  of 
hurling  both  the  big  side-lanterns  out  of  their  slides  on 
deck,  or  shooting  both  binnacle-lights  at  once  into  the 


252  THE  LOO    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

air,  leaving  the  helmsman  staring  at  a  black  disc  instead 
of  the  illuminated  compass  -  card.  And  often,  as  I 
painfully  made  my  way  forrard  with  the  side-lights, 
after  a  long  struggle  with  wetted  wicks  and  broken 
glass,  she  would  plunge  her  bows  under  a  huge  comber, 
lifting  a  massive  flood  over  all,  which  seized  me  in  its 
ruthless  embrace  and  swept  me,  entangled  with  my 
burden,  the  whole  length  of  the  deck,  till  I  brought  up 
against  the  second-cabin  door  right  aft,  with  a  bang 
that  knocked  the  scanty  remnant  of  breath  out  of  my 
trembling  body.  Down  in  the  engine-room  the  grey- 
headed chief-engineer  stood  by  the  grunting  machinery, 
his  hand  on  the  throttle-valve,  which  he  incessantly 
manipulated  to  prevent  the  propeller  racing  the  engines 
out  of  their  seats  whenever  she  lifted  her  stern  out  of 
the  water  and  the  screw  revolved  in  thin  air.  For  the 
old-fashioned  low-pressure  engines  had  no  "  governor," 
and  consequently,  no  automatic  means  of  relieving  the 
terrific  strain  thrown  upon  them  in  such  weather  as 
this.  And  the  firemen,  who  liad  to  keep  steam  up, 
though  they  were  hurled  to  and  fro  over  the  slippery 
plates  like  toys,  were  probably  in  the  most  evil  case 
of  all. 

She  must  have  been  staunchly  built,  for  she  bore 
the  fearful  buffeting  without  any  damage  worth  speak- 
ing of,  except  to  the  unfortunates  who  were  compelled 
to  attend  to  their  duties  under  such  difficulties.  And 
after  the  gale  blew  itself  out,  and  the  glorious  sun 
mounted  triumphantly  in  the  deep  blue  dome  above, 
the  scene  was  splendid  beyond  description.  We  always 
kept  fairly  close  in  with  the  land,  excei^t  when  cross- 
ing  a   deep    bight,  and   the  views  we  obtained  of   the 


I  BECOME  A    COLONIAL    COASTER.  253 

magnificent  sceneiy  along  tliat  ^Yoncle^fllI  coast  were 
worth  enduring  a  good  deal  of  hardship  to  witness. 
We  arrived  off  the  entrance  to  the  Clarence  Eiver  just 
at  dark,  and,  to  my  great  astonishment,  instead  of  going 
in,  sail  was  set,  the  fires  were  damped  down,  and  we 
stood  "oft'  and  on"  until  daylight.  As  soon  as  there 
was  sufiicient  light  to  distinguish  ohjects  on  shore,  we 
stood  in ;  all  passengers  were  ordered  below  and  every- 
thing was  battened  down.  All  hands  perched  them- 
selves as  high  as  they  could  on  the  bridge,  upper-deck, 
and  in  the  rigging,  while  we  made  straight  for  the  bar. 
These  precautions  had  filled  me  with  wonder,  for  I  Imew 
nothing  of  bar  harbours.  But  when,  on  our  nearer 
approach,  I  saw  the  mighty  stretch  of  turbulent  breakers 
rolling  in  mountains  of  snowy  foam  across  the  river's 
mouth,  I  began  to  understand  that  the  passage  through 
tliat  would  mean  considerable  danger.  Every  ounce 
of  steam  we  could  raise  was  on  her,  and  the  skipper, 
a  splendid  specimen  of  a  British  seaman,  stood  on  the 
bridge,  the  very  picture  of  vigorous  vigilance.  We 
entered  the  first  line  of  breakers  ;  all  around  us  seethed 
the  turmoil  of  snowy  foam,  with  not  a  mark  of  any  kind 
to  show  the  channel,  except  such  bearings  as  the  skipper 
knew  of  on  the  distant  shore.  Perched  upon  the  rail, 
a  leadsman  sounded  as  rapidly  as  he  could,  calling  out 
such  depths  of  water  as  amazed  me,  knowing  our 
draught.  Along  came  an  enormous  wall  of  white  water, 
overwhelming  the  hull  and  hiding  it  from  sight.  ''  Lead 
— quick!"  yelled  the  skipper  above  the  thunder  of  the 
sea;  and  Joe  screamed,  "Two,  half  one,  quarter  less 
two."  Ah  !  a  long  and  grinding  concussion  as  she  tore 
up  the  ground,  then  along  came  another  mighty  comber 


254  THE  LOG    OF   A    SEA- WAIF. 

over  all.  When  it  bad  passed  we  were  over  the  bar  and 
in  smootb  water,  only  tbe  yeasty  flakes  of  tbe  spent 
breakers  following  us  as  if  disappointed  of  tbeir  prey. 
A  very  few  minutes  sufficed  to  dry  up  tbe  decks,  and 
tbe  passengers  appeared  well  pleased  to  be  in  tbe  placid 
waters  of  tbe  river  and  at  peace  once  more.  Wbat  a 
lovely  scene  it  was !  At  times  we  sped  along  close  to 
tbe  bank,  wbile  a  great  stretcb  of  river  extended  on  tbe 
otber  side  of  us  a  mile  wide,  but  too  sballow  for  even 
our  ligbt  draugbt.  On  gleaming  sand-patcbes  flocks  of 
pelicans  performed  tbeir  unwieldy  gambols,  and  sboals 
of  fisb  reflected  tbe  sunligbt  from  tbeir  myriad  glittering 
scales.  Turning  a  sbarp  bend  we  would  disturb  a  flock 
of  black  swans  tbat  rose  witb  deafening  clamour  in 
sucb  immense  numbers  as  to  darken  tbe  sky  overbead 
like  a  tbunder-cloud.  And,  about  tbe  busbes  tbat 
clotbed  tbe  banks,  flew  parrots,  cockatoos,  and  magpies 
in  sucb  bosts  as  I  bad  never  dreamed  of.  For  an  bour 
we  saw  no  sign  of  inbabitants ;  tben,  suddenly,  we 
sigbted  a  little  village  witb  a  rude  jetty  and  about 
balf  a  dozen  bouses.  All  tbe  population,  I  suppose, 
stood  on  tbe  pier  to  greet  us,  wbo  came  bearing  to 
tbem  in  tbeir  lonely  corner  a  bit  of  tbe  great  outside 
world.  Our  skipper,  tbougb  noted  for  bis  seamansbip, 
was  equally  notorious  for  bis  clumsiness  in  bringing 
bis  vessel  alongside  a  wbarf,  and  we  came  into  tbe 
somewbat  crazy  structure  witb  a  crasb  tbat  sent  tbe 
sbore-folk  scurrying  off  into  safety  until  it  was  seen 
to  be  still  intact.  We  were  soon  fast,  and  all  bands 
working  like  Cbinamen  to  land  tbe  few  packages  of 
goods,  for  we  bad  a  long  way  to  go  yet  and  several  otber 
places  to  call  at.     Our  discbarging  was  soon  over,  tbe 


I  BECOME  A    COLONIAL    COASTER.  255 

warps  cast  off,  and,  followed  by  (as  I  thought)  the 
wistful  looks  of  the  little  community  of  Eocky  Mouth, 
we  proceeded  up  the  river  again.  Occasionally  we 
sighted  a  homestead  standing  among  a  thick  plantation 
of  banana  trees,  each  laden  with  its  massive  bunch 
of  fruit,  and  broad  areas  of  sugar-cane  or  maize.  From 
amongst  the  latter  as  we  passed  rose  perfect  clouds 
of  cockatoos  and  parrots,  screaming  discordantly,  and 
making  even  the  dullest  observer  think  of  the  heavy 
toll  they  were  levying  upon  the  toiling  farmer.  Again 
and  again  we  stopped  at  villages,  each  bearing  a  family 
likeness  to  the  first,  but  all  looking  thriving,  and 
inhabited  by  well-fed,  sturdy  people.  Just  before 
sunset  we  arrived  at  Grafton,  having  passed  but  two 
vessels  on  our  journey  up — one  a  handsome  brigantine, 
whose  crew  were  laboriously  towing  her  along  at  a 
snail's  pace  in  a  solitary  boat,  and  the  other  a  fiat- 
bottomed,  stern-wheel  steamer  of  so  light  a  draught 
that  she  looked  capable  of  crossing  a  meadow  in  a 
heavy  dew.  There  was  a  substantial  jetty  built  out 
from  the  steep  bank,  to  the  end  of  which,  after  con- 
siderable fumbling  about,  we  moored.  The  only  house 
visible  was  a  rather  fine  dwelling  whose  front  verandah 
overlooked  the  jetty  from  the  top  of  the  bank.  But, 
when  work  was  done  for  the  evening  and  I  climbed 
up  the  bank,  I  was  surprised  to  find  quite  a  con- 
siderable town,  with  well-laid-out  streets  and  every 
appearance  of  prosperity.  There  was  little  inducement 
to  remain,  however,  and  I  soon  hurried  on  board  again 
to  enjoy  some  grand  fishing  over  the  side. 

Here  we  remained  for  a  week  discharging  our  cargo 
and  reloading  with  maize,  cases  of  preserved  beef  and 


25G  THE   LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF 

mutton,  and  bags  of  tin  ore.  Just  before  sailing  we 
received  a  good  deal  of  farm  produce,  including  several 
hundred  bunches  of  bananas,  for  which  there  was  always 
a  good  demand  in  Sydney.  In  order  not  to  miss  a  tide 
we  sailed  sometime  before  daylight  one  morning,  and, 
when  about  twenty  miles  down  the  river,  ran  into  the 
region  of  a  bush  fire.  As  we  had  to  hug  the  bank 
rather  closely  just  there,  we  had  an  anxious  time  of 
it,  the  great  showers  of  sparks  and  sheets  of  flame 
reaching  out  towards  us  as  if  determined  to  claim  us, 
too,  among  their  victims.  The  siglit  was  terribly  grand; 
the  blood-red  sky  overhead  and  the  glowing  river 
beneath  making  it  appear  as  if  we  were  between  two 
furnaces,  while  the  deep  terrific  roar  of  the  furious  fire 
so  near  drowned  every  other  sound.  All  hands  were 
kept  on  the  alert  dowsing  sparks  that  settled  on  board 
of  us,  and  right  glad  was  everybody  when  we  emerged 
into  the  cool  and  smoke-free  air  beyond.  After  that 
we  had  a  most  humdrum  passage  all  the  way  to 
Sydney. 

I  made  at  least  twenty  trips  afterwards,  all  very 
much  alike  in  their  freedom  from  incidents  worth 
recording  here — except  one,  which  made  a  very  vivid 
impression  upon  me  of  the  hardships  endured  by  settlers 
in  that  beautiful  country.  It  had  been  raining  steadily 
for  several  days,  making  our  transhipment  of  cargo 
a  miserable  operation ;  and  it  was  noticed  by  all  of 
us,  as  we  lay  at  Grafton  jetty,  how  rapidly  the  river 
was  running.  Before  dark  one  evening  the  skij)per 
ordered  the  warps  to  be  cast  off,  and  we  hauled  out 
into  the  fairway,  anchoring  there  with  a  good  scope 
of  cable.     All  night  long  the  rain  poured  down  harder 


TWKXTY    MILES    DOWN    THE    KIVER    WE    RAX    IXTO    THE    REGION 
OF    A    BUSH    FIRE. 


/  BECOME  A    COLONIAL    COASTER.  257 

than  ever.  When  daylight  broke,  so  thick  was  the 
obscurity  caused  by  the  dekige  of  rain,  that  we  coukl 
hardly  make  out  the  familiar  outlines  of  things  ashore, 
even  at  that  short  distance.  But  we  could  both  feel  and 
see  that  the  river  was  now  a  torrent,  bringing  down 
with  it  massive  trees  and  floating  islands  of  dehris  torn 
from  the  banks  higher  up.  Towards  noon  the  rain 
took  off,  and  revealed  to  us  a  disastrous  state  of  affairs 
ashore.  The  river  had  risen  over  twenty  feet ;  so  that 
we  now  floated  on  a  level  with  the  top  of  the  bank,  and 
might  have  steamed  over  the  wharf  at  which  we  had 
lain  the  previous  evening.  It  became  necessary  for 
our  skipper  to  go  ashore,  although  it  was  a  most 
dangerous  task  navigating  the  boat  through  that 
raging,  tumultuous  current.  But  the  sight  of  those 
poor  folks'  plight  in  the  town  made  us  forget  all  else. 
The  turbid  flood  was  everywhere ;  all  the  houses 
standing  like  islands  in  a  muddy  sea,  and  boats  plying 
busily  to  and  fro,  carrying  loads  of  stricken  people 
who  had  seen  the  labour  of  years  destroyed  in  a  night. 
And  all  down  the  river  the  tale  was  the  same :  homes, 
crops,  stock — everything  that  had  been  slowly  and 
painfully  accumulated  by  years  of  self-sacrifice — buried 
under  the  all-devom'ing  flood.  It  was  too  pitiful  for  words . 
How  terribly  true  those  words  of  warning  returned 
now  which  I  had  read  some  months  before  in  one  of 
the  Sydney  newspapers,  "  Beware  of  the  rich  alluvial 
soil  along  the  banks  of  rivers."  As  far  as  I  remember, 
but  little  notice  was  taken  of  the  matter  in  Sydney; 
for  there  had  been  a  great  flood  on  the  Hunter  Kiver, 
much  nearer  to  them,  at  about  the  same  time,  and 
that  seemed   to  occupy  most   of  the  public   attention* 


258  THE   LOG    OF  A   SEA- WAIF. 

So  many  pathetic  incidents  were  witnessed  by  us  on 
that  trip  that  it  would  be  invidious  to  make  a  selection, 
even  if  it  were  not  outside  the  scope  of  my  purpose 
to  do  so ;  but  one  scene,  from  the  intensity  of  its 
pathos,  has  haunted  me  ever  since.  A  certain  home- 
stead on  the  shores  of  a  lovely  bend  of  the  river,  some 
twenty  miles  from  Grafton,  was  one  of  the  most  familiar 
of  our  landmarks.  The  man  and  his  wife  were  a 
splendid  couple,  full  of  energy  and  ability,  and  they 
had,  by  their  own  unaided  efforts,  made  such  a  home 
of  this  out-of-the-way  corner  as  gladdened  the  eyes 
to  look  upon.  Whenever  we  went  up  or  down  there 
the  worthy  couple  would  be,  surrounded  by  their 
vigorous  group  of  sunburnt  youngsters,  shouting  greet- 
ings to  us  as  if  we  were  all  old  friends.  At  this 
particular  season  they  had  a  more  than  ordinarily 
line  crop  of  sugar-cane,  for  which  they  had  already 
received  a  good  offer  from  the  manager  of  a  new  sugar- 
mill  erected  in  one  of  the  reaches  above  Grafton.  When 
we  passed  down  after  the  flood,  there,  on  a  heap  of 
muddy  rubbish,  sat  the  man,  his  head  bowed  on  his 
knees  and  his  children  crouching  near  in  the  deepest 
wretchedness.  Blowing  our  whistle,  as  usual,  we  roused 
him ;  but  after  a  momentary  glance  his  head  fell  again. 
All  was  ruin  and  desolation,  utter  and  complete.  Even 
the  grove  of  banana  trees  that  used  to  embower  his 
house  had  been  swept  away.  And  his  wife  was  nowhere 
to  be  seen. 


(      250      ) 


CHAPTEK   XXII. 


PEOSPERITY    PALLS    UPON    JIE. 


As  I  grew  better  acquainted  with  the  couditions  of  hl'e 
on  hoard  the  coasting  steamers,  I  became  extremely 
dissatisfied  with  my  treatment  on  board  the  Helen 
M'Gregor.  For  while  I  had  the  usual  duties  of  a 
lamp-trimmer  to  attend  to,  I  was  also  compelled  to 
work  at  all  hours  as  one  of  the  crew,  while  the  heavy 
weights  I  was  ordered  to  handle  were  far  beyond  m.y 
strength,  and  several  times  I  was  severely  hurt.  So 
that  at  a  fitting  opportunity  I  left  her,  taking  up  my 
abode  with  a  shoemaker,  who  had  a  large  connection 
among  steamer-hands,  and  for  two  or  three  weeks  led 
the  unprofitable  life  of  a  gentleman  at  large.  This  was 
bad  for  me  in  many  ways.  The  company  I  was  thrown 
amongst  was  doubtful ;  I  did  not  then  know  how  much 
so,  and,  although  I  did  not  get  involved  in  any  of  their 
shadier  exploits,  I  began  to  drink  pretty  heavily,  and, 
to  put  it  briefly,  go  to  the  devil  generally.  This  career 
was  fortunately  put  a  stop  to  by  the  emptying  of  my 
purse,  which  compelled  me  to  get  employment  again. 

My  next  ship  was  one  of  the  finest  on  the  coast,  the 
last  new  vessel  of  the  Australasian  Steam  Nagviation 


2G0  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

Company's  (A.S.N.)  fleet,  which  was  called  the  Wcnt- 
irorth.  To  my  juvenile  ideas  she  was  a  floating  palace, 
everything  on  board  being  on  a  grand  scale  as  compared 
with  the  little  Helen  M'Grc(j(»:  The  mate  was  a  huge 
Scotchman  named  Wallace,  rough  as  a  bear,  but  very 
just  and  straightforward.  When  he  engaged  me,  he 
gave  me  to  understand  that  m}'  duties  consisted 
solely  in  attending  to  the  lamps  and  polishing  the 
ornamental  brass -work  about  the  deck,  and  that  I 
was  on  no  account  to  do  anything  else  or  take  orders 
from  anybody  but  himself  or  the  captain.  This,  added 
to  the  fact  that  my  wages  were  now  to  be  three  pounds 
ten  shillings  a  month,  made  me  feel  quite  an  important 
personage — in  fact,  I  was  almost  "  too  big  for  my  boots." 
Everything  on  board  was  so  excellent  in  quality,  and 
so  well  managed,  that  I  felt  great  pride  in  my  ship, 
and  I  determined  that,  as  1  had  only  one  master  to 
please,  I  would  do  all  I  could  to  succeed.  The  first 
thing  I  resolved  was  that  no  ship  in  harbour  should 
have  such  dazzling  brass  as  mine,  and,  after  I  had 
polished  it  all,  I  used  to  go  round  the  other  ships  and 
look  at  theirs.  If  there  was  one  that  I  thought  looked 
more  brilliant  than  mine,  I  would  come  back  and  go 
over  my  polishing  again  until  I  was  satisfied,  and  so 
I  gradually  got  the  reputation  of  being  smart  at  brass- 
cleaning  anyhow.  I  lived  entirely  alone  in  a  little 
cubicle  by  my  lamp -room,  which  was  a  spacious  apart- 
ment, well  fitted  and  quite  sheltered  from  the  weather, 
being  on  the  main-deck.  In  return  for  trimming  the 
cook's  lamps,  I  received  all  my  meals  from  the  saloon 
messes,  and  thus  I  lived  better  than  I  have  ever  d(^e 
before  or  since.     Not  that  the  men  fared  indifferently. 


{ 


PnOSPERTTY  PALLS    UPON  ME.  2G1 

The  food  supplied  to  them  was  of  the  best  quality,  aud 
as  for  quantity — well,  they  had  steaks,  chops,  and 
potatoes,  with  unlimited  baker's  bread,  for  breakfast ; 
roast  joints  and  potatoes  for  dinner,  and  for  supper 
the  same  as  for  breakfast.  The  waste  was  shameful. 
The  first  two  or  three  hands  to  arrive  on  the  spot  where 
they  took  their  meals,  would  cut  all  the  brown  off  a  ten 
or  twelve-pound  joint.  When  the  laggards  came  along, 
if  the  appearance  of  the  meat  was  not  to  their  liking, 
which  was  usually  the  case,  they  would  just  fling  it 
over  the  side  and  go  to  the  galley  for  more.  The  cook 
dared  not  complain,  as  the  officers  always  took  the 
crew's  part.  This  partiality  was  owing  to  the  system 
obtaining,  whereby  a  contractor  ashore  supplied  all 
provisions  at  so  much  per  head,  finding  cooks  and 
stewards  himself.  And  any  suggestion  upon  the  part 
of  his  servants  that  food  was  being  wasted  was  always 
fiercely  resented  by  every  member  of  the  crew,  who 
would  immediately  accuse  them  of  trying  to  fatten  their 
employer  at  the  sailor's  expense.  The  result  was  that 
as  much  food  was  wasted  each  passage  as  would  have 
supplied  another  ship  of  the  same  size. 

Those  were  the  palmy  days  of  Australian  coasters. 
A.B.'s  received  £7  per  month,  and  one  shilling  and 
sixpence  per  hour  overtime  when  in  harbour,  while 
the  day  consisted  of  eight  hours  only.  Firemen  got 
£10,  and  trimmers  £8  per  month,  with  overtime  in 
addition  like  the  sailors.  And,  in  justice  to  them, 
it  must  be  said  that  they  seemed  to  value  their  privi- 
leges, and  did  not  behave  in  the  senseless  way  that 
deep-water  sailors  usually  do.  They  spent  a  lot  of 
money  on  dress  and  theatre-going,  it  is  true ;  but  many 


202  THE   LOG    OF  A   SEA    WAIF. 

of  them  OAvned  house-property  or  land.  Nor  was  their 
life  a  hard  one.  There  was  none  of  that  tremendous 
drive  and  tear  seen  on  the  American  coast,  where  high 
wages  are  paid — as  if  the  officers  are  determined  to  get 
the  last  ounce  of  energy  out  of  every  man  because  he 
was  well  paid.  No  ;  take  it  all  round,  it  was  the  most 
comfortable  sea-service  that  ever  I  saw  or  heard  of,  and 
I  never  ceased  to  wonder  at  it,  or  imagine  that  it  was 
much  too  good  to  last.  From  all  reports  that  have 
reached  me  of  late  years,  my  ideas  on  the  latter  point 
seem  to  have  been  well  founded,  for  I  hear  that  neither 
pay  nor  conditions  of  service  are  in  any  degree  com- 
parable with  what  then  obtained. 

As  for  me,  I  led  a  gentleman's  life.  Called  at 
daylight  to  take  in  the  lamps,  I  was  able  to  finish  all 
my  work  before  ten  a.m.,  and  from  thenceforward  I 
was  my  own  master.  So  heavily  did  the  time  hang 
when  at  sea,  that  I  took  in  washing  from  both  sailors 
and  firemen  at  the  rate  of  three  shillings  and  sixpence 
per  dozen,  and  thus  earned  a  lot  of  extra  money. 
Unfortunately,  I  had  no  ideas  of  thrift ;  and  so,  although 
I  must  have  been  in  receipt  of  at  least  thirty  shillings 
weekly,  I  never  saved  a  penny.  My  earnings  used  to 
leak  away  as  if  all  my  j)ockets  were  sieves.  But,  on 
the  other  hand,  the  comfortable  life,  abundance  of  good 
food,  and  freedom  from  ill-usage,  had  such  an  effect 
upon  my  hitherto  puny  body,  that  I  began  to  look  and 
feel  as  if  I  was  capable  of  doing  a  good  day's  work, 
and  should,  therefore,  not  now  be  ashamed  to  ask  for 
employment.  I  no  longer  felt  like  a  sailor,  nor  did 
the  prospect  of  a  return  to  the  old  life  ever  enter  my 
head — in  fact,  I  am  afraid  I  never  thought  of  tlie  future 


PR0SPEBIT7  PALLS    UPON  ME.  2G3 

at  all.  My  life  was  very  pleasant ;  and  there  was 
nobody  in  the  world  who  cared  a  row  of  pins  what 
became  of  me — what  more  natural  than  that  I  should, 
like  any  other  pampered  animal,  live  contentedly  in  the 
present  ? 

Our  usual  trip  was  between  Sydney  and  Melbourne, 
and  it  generally'  occupied  from  eight  to  ten  days.     Anj'- 
thing  more  delightful  than  the  ordinary  run  along  the 
coast  would  be  hard  to  imagine.     I  got  to  know  every 
landmark  between  the  two  ports  as  intimately  as  one 
knows  the  route  between  his  work  and  his  own  street- 
door.     But,  although  I  was    always  interested   in  the 
Australian  scenery,  I  felt  delighted  to  hear  one  trip  that 
we  were  bound  to  Auckland  next  voyage.     I  had  heard 
so  much  of  New  Zealand  that  I  had  got  to  regard  it  as 
a  sort  of  fairy-land — a  group  of  Islands  of  the  Blest. 
We  left  Sydney  on  Christmas  Eve  for  our  Auckland  trip, 
much   to   the    disgust    of    everybody   on   board   except 
myself;  but  as  we  carried  the  mails  no  delay  could  be 
allowed.     The  next  day  we  were,  of  course,  out  of  sight 
of  land,  steering   straight    across    that   stretch  of  the 
Pacific  that  lies  between  Australia  and  New  Zealand ; 
the  sea  was  like  a  lake  of  glowing  oil,  and  the  sky  a 
fieckless  dome  of  deepest  blue,  with  one  mighty  glol)e  of 
molten  gold  hanging  in  its  midst.      Festivities  began 
early — so  early,  indeed,  that  by  dinner-time  some  of  the 
fellows  were  getting  very  frivolous.     There  was  a  Gar- 
gantuan feed,  of  course  ;    and,  after  that — well,  it  was 
surely  expecting  too  much  of  human  nature  to  suppose 
that  steam  would  or  could  be  kept  up  as  usual.     At 
any  rate  it  wasn't.     It  went  down,  down,  down  until, 
by  four  p.m.,  the  propeller  was  just  feebly  revolving,  the 


2fi4  TBE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

vessel  making  no  more  than  two  knots  at  the  outside. 
By  dusk  I  verily  believe  that  the  only  two  sober  males 
on  board  were  the  captain  and  myself.  Drunkenness 
reigned  supreme  in  saloon,  stokehold,  and  forecastle. 
By-and-by  the  screw  stopped  altogether,  and  we  lay 
almost  motionless.  A  few  of  the  more  vigorous  revellers 
made  spasmodic  efforts  to  "  keep  it  up  ;  "  but  gradually 
the  "fun"  fizzled  out,  and  general  sleep  succeeded. 
How  long  it  lasted  I  don't  know,  for  I  turned  in  as 
usual ;  but  in  the  morning  she  was  going  again,  though 
at  no  great  speed  it  is  true.  The  only  redeeming 
feature  about  the  whole  orgie  was  the  absence  of 
quarrelling.  General  good-humour  prevailed  ever}-- 
where  on  board,  and  not  a  word  was  said  in  recrimi- 
nation after  the  resumption  of  work.  A  day  late,  we 
sighted  the  Three  Kings — those  solitary  rocks  off  the 
north  point  of  New  Zealand  that  stand  up  so  sternly 
out  of  the  blue  waste  about  them.  When  we  made 
them  out,  it  was  in  the  tremulous  lovely  light  of  dawn — 
beautiful  beyond  expression  in  those  latitudes — and  their 
rugged  outlines  stood  out  sharply  against  the  tenderly 
tinted  sky,  through  that  lucent  atmosphere,  like  the 
shadows  cast  by  an  electric  beam.  Then,  as  the  sun 
sprang  into  the  smiling  heaven,  they  were  gilded,  and 
became  like  some  fantastic  ruin  in  black  marble  fringed 
with  fiery  rays  and  floating  on  a  sea  of  many-coloured 
flame.  A  few  hours'  run  brought  us  to  the  Gulf  of 
Hauraki,  up  which  we  steamed  amidst  some  of  the  most 
beautiful  scenery  in  the  world.  As  we  glided  onward 
to  where,  apparently,  a  huge  mountain  completely- 
blocked  up  the  apex  of  the  gulf,  a  lovely  island  was 
pointed  out  to  me  on  the  starboard  hand  as  the  earthly 


PHOSPEEITY   PALLS    UPON  ME.  265 

paradise  of  Sir  George  Grey — Tiri-tiri.  Here  I  waf5 
told  it  was  his  custom  to  receive  troops  of  his  Maori 
friends,  and  entertain  them  for  days,  mingling  with 
them  without  the  slightest  consciousness  of  any  differ- 
ence of  rank  or  colour  between  him  and  them.  No 
wonder  they  loved  him,  and  will  hand  his  memory 
down  to  their  remotest  descendants  as  the  great  white 
chief  who  loved  them  and  justice. 

Nearer  and  nearer  we  drew  to  Eangitoto,  the 
frowning  peak  that  loomed  heavily  right  in  our  path. 
At  last,  when  within  a  very  short  distance  of  it,  we 
made  a  sharp  turn,  and,  skirting  a  reef  that  extended 
some  distance  from  its  base,  we  presently  opened  up 
Auckland  Harbour,  which,  if  not  so  picturesque  as  its 
approaches  might  have  led  one  to  expect,  had  all  the 
merits  that  a  good  harbour  should  have — pre-eminentl}', 
the  chief  one  of  being  safe  with  all  winds.  In  a  few 
minutes  we  were  alongside  the  wharf,  and  besieged  by 
an  eager  crowd  who  had  been  anxiously  awaiting  us, 
as  we  were  so  much  over  our  time.  As  was  my  con- 
stant habit,  I  began  at  once  to  inquire  as  to  the  fishing 
possibilities  of  the  place,  learning,  to  my  intense  delight, 
that  the  harbour  literally  swarmed  with  fish  of  all 
kinds,  and  that  even  from  the  wharf  they  could  be 
caught  in  enormous  quantities.  That  settled  my  spare- 
time  occupation  for  me.  During  our  three  visits  to  the 
city,  although  our  stay  lasted  a  week  each  time,  I  only 
went  "  up  town  "  twice,  and  then  strictly  on  business. 
My  beloved  sport  claimed  all  mj  attention.  For  some 
reason,  perhaps  to  avoid  accidents,  the  authorities  did 
not  permit  fishing  from  the  wharf  in  working  hours. 
So    at    daylight,   enthusiastic    fishermen    like    myself 


2C)6  TEE  LOO    OF  A    SEA-WATF. 

would  gather  along  its  lee  edge,  where  the  furious 
current  boiled  and  bubbled  around  the  piles,  and  eagerly 
try  to  "jag"  a  few  of  the  tiny  mackerel  that  clustered 
in  shoals  wherever  there  was  an  eddy.  As  soon  as  one 
was  caught  he  would  be  impaled  on  a  large  hook, 
fastened  to  the  end  of  a  long,  stout  line,  and  cast  out 
into  the  current  without  any  other  gear  attached.  As 
the  line  "  slithered "  through  one's  fingers,  an  eager 
watch  was  kept  where  the  bait  might  be  expected  to  be. 
Presently,  like  a  bar  of  silver,  a  huge  fish  would  leap 
into  the  air,  and  it  was  pull  for  your  life.  There  was 
no  finesse,  no  sport,  in  the  angler's  sense  of  the  term, 
but  I  doubt  if  any  angler  ever  enjoyed  his  fishing  more 
than  I  did.  This  particular  kind  of  fishing,  however, 
always  had  to  cease  at  six  o'clock,  that  is,  when  work 
began.  At  other  times  I  fished  on  the  bottom  from 
the  ship,  and  was  often  at  a  serious  loss  to  know  what 
to  do  with  the  enormous  numbers  I  caught.  But  even 
then  I  did  not  realize  how  vast  were  the  shoals  of  fish 
in  the  harbour,  until  one  day  I  took  an  oar  in  a  boat 
conveying  a  pleasure  party  from  our  vessel  down  the 
bay.  When  near  the  reef  which  fringed  Kangitoto 
Mountain,  the  numbers  of  kauwhai  (a  fish  much  like  an 
overgrown  mullet,  and  averaging  four  or  five  pounds  in 
weight)  were  so  great,  that  each  dip  of  the  oar  slew 
them  until  the  water  around  us  was  reddened  with  their 
blood.  They  were  a  fish  of  most  delicate  flavour,  and 
would  have  commanded  a  high  price  in  any  civilized 
fish-market.  But  the  people  of  Auckland  seemed  quite 
indiflerent  to  the  piscatorial  advantages  they  enjoyed. 

So  in  this  pleasant,  easy-going  fashion  the  months 
passed    away,     until    one    day    we    left    Sydney    for 


PROSPERITY    PALLS    UPON  ME.  2G7 

Melbourne  in  the  teeth  of  a  southerly  gale.  It  was  hope- 
less to  exi^ect  that  we  should  make  any  progress ;  but 
I  "was  told,  that  because  we  had  the  mails  on  board,  we 
were  bound  to  "show  willing."  We  managed  to  get 
round  the  South  Head,  and  there  we  stuck ;  the  engines 
doggedly  pounding  away,  green  seas  coming  over  all, 
passengers  all  sea-sick,  and  we  not  gaining  an  inch 
against  the  fierce  wind  that  roared  up  from  its  icy  breed- 
ing place  in  the  Antarctic  regions.  At  last  the  "governor" 
carried  away,  and  all  attempts  to  repair  it  were  in- 
effectual. This,  coupled  with  the  fact  that  night  was 
coming  on,  determined  our  skipper  to  run  back  and 
anchor  in  Watson's  Bay,  just  behind  the  North  Head, 
for  shelter.  The  word  was  given,  and  she  spun  round 
as  if  rejoicing  to  be  freed  from  the  enormous  strain 
she  had  been  undergoing.  As  we  drew  rapidly  near  the 
mouth  of  the  harbour  the  sight  was  one  of  the  grandest 
conceivable.  From  the  summit  of  the  North  Head — 
a  gigantic  cliff  over  four  hundred  feet  high — fountains 
of  spray  shot  up  forty  or  fifty  feet  into  the  air,  the 
incalculable  pressure  of  those  tremendous  waves,  rolling 
up  against  it  from  their  thousand-league  journey,  having 
forced  the  reluctant  sea  upwards  through  the  interstices 
of  that  massy  cliff  to  such  a  stupendous  height.  We 
flew  in  through  the  entrance  and  immediately  all  was 
still.  As  we  rounded  to  in  the  quiet  little  bay  and 
dropped  anchor,  it  was  almost  impossible  to  realize 
what  a  tormented  waste  of  boiling  sea  we  had  just  left, 
since  here  we  lay  perfectly  motionless,  without  a  ripple 
on  the  waters  around.  As  it  was  dusk  I  prepared  the 
"  riding-lamp,"  which  is  always  suspended  from  the 
fore-rigging  of  a  vessel  at  anchor ;  but,  for  some  stupid 


2G8  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

reason  of  my  own,  I  did  not  place  it  in  its  position. 
Then  I  forgot  all  about  it.  The  captain  was  the  first 
to  discover  its  absence,  and,  blowing  his  whistle  for  the 
chief  officer,  he  reproved  him  sternly  for  his  inattention 
to  this  important  detail.  Smarting  at  this,  the  mate 
called  me  and  asked  why  I  had  not  put  the  light  up. 
I  made  some  idiotic  excuse,  telling  him  that  it  was 
already  lighted  and  awaited  his  orders.  He  was  almost 
speechless  with  rage ;  but  controlled  himself  so  far  that 
he  presently  said  calmly,  "Well,  go  and  hang  it  up." 
I  did  so  promptly,  and  soon  thought  no  more  about 
it.  There  was  just  this  shade  of  excuse  for  me — that 
I  had  never  been  anchored  in  a  fairway  before,  since 
I  had  been  a  lamp-trimmer,  except  up  the  Clarence 
Eiver,  and  there  the  gangway-lamp  sufficed. 

We  resumed  our  voyage  on  the  morrow,  and  re- 
turned to  Sydney  without  incident  worth  remembering. 
On  the  first  morning  after  our  arrival  the  mate  called 
me,  and,  giving  me  the  balance  of  my  month's  money, 
discharged  me.  Not  a  word  was  said,  but  I  felt  sure 
of  the  reason,  and  did  not  feel  sufficiently  courageous 
to  try  and  appease  him.  Nevertheless  I  was  very  sore, 
for  I  knew  that,  while  I  had  had  one  of  the  best  ships 
on  the  coast,  I  had  also  done  my  work  thoroughly 
well,  for  over  and  over  again  the  mate  had  commended 
me  upon  it.  I  slunk  ashore  like  a  beaten  dog,  not 
caring  what  became  of  me,  and,  returning  to  my  old 
lodgings  at  the  shoemaker's,  set  about  spending  vay 
little  stock  of  cash  in  reckless  fashion.  It  did  not 
last  long,  of  course,  and  I  was  soon  fain  to  look  for 
a  ship ;  but,  strange  to  say,  I  hadn't  the  heart  to  trj- 
for   another   berth    as    a   lamp-trimmer.      It   suddenly 


PROSPERITY   PALLS    UPON   ME.  269 

occurred  to  me  that  1  would  like  to  go  "home"  again. 
That  is  one  of  the  most  incomprehensible  things 
imaginable  to  me.  Never,  during  the  first  thirteen 
years  of  my  life  at  sea,  did  I  have  any  home  in  England, 
or  one  friendly  face  to  welcome  me  back  there.  Yet, 
however  well  I  was  treated  in  foreign  countries  or  in 
the  Australasian  colonies,  I  always  felt  a  longing  to 
get  back  to  my  own  country  again ;  and  the  sight  of 
my  home-land  never  failed  to  make  a  lump  come 
in  my  throat  and  raise  a  feeling  of  wordless  love  for 
her  in  my  breast.  Why  a  homeless  waif  should  thus 
love  his  native  land,  I  do  not  profess  to  understand  ; 
but  it  is  a  solid  fact,  and  one  that  has  to  be  reckoned 
with,  since  I  do  not  for  a  moment  suppose  that  I  am 
any  different  to  the  ordinary  run  of  people. 

In  consequence  of  this  strange  longing  to  see  the 
white  cliffs  of  England  once  more,  I  neglected  the 
intercolonial  steamers  altogether,  and  spent  much  of 
my  time  hanging  about  Circular  Quay  watching  the 
proceedings  on  board  the  splendid  clipper-ships  that 
lay  in  that  beautiful  cove  discharging  their  outward 
cargoes  of  merchandise,  or  filling  their  capacious  holds 
with  the  wool,  tin,  copper,  and  meat  of  the  Colonies 
for  transhipment  to  the  mother  country.  But,  owing 
to  a  diffidence  that  has  always  afflicted  me,  I  did  not 
venture  on  board  any  of  them  to  ask  whether  my 
services  were  required,  although  I  was  now  a  sturdy 
youngster,  well  able  to  do  a  day's  work  and  looking 
like  it.  One  day,  as  I  was  prowling  round  one  of  the 
outlying  wharves,  I  got  into  conversation  with  a  burly 
Londoner,  who  was  second  mate  of  an  old  barque  lying 
there,  apparently  waiting    for  freight,   which  was    not 


270  THE  LOG    OF   A   SEA-WATF. 

forthcoming  lor  any  such  out-of-date  craft  as  she  was. 
This  individual  informed  me  that  his  ship  was  in  want 
of  two  ordinary  seamen,  and  that  if  I  would  go  to  a 
certain  hotel  {An (/lice,  puhlic-house)  in  the  vicinity, 
I  should  find  the  skipper  there,  and  that  he  would 
probably  engage  me  at  once  if  I  was  willing.  This 
was  by  no  means  the  kind  of  ship  that  I  had  purposed 
going  home  in;  but  I  was  heartily  weary  of  being 
ashore  doing  nothing  (my  money  was  all  gone),  so  I 
turned  my  steps  towards  the  skipper's  haunt  at  once. 
I  found  it  without  any  difficulty — indeed,  the  place 
was  fairly  w^ell  known  to  me  by  sight — and,  entering, 
I  inquired  of  a  red-faced  man  (who,  in  his  shirt-sleeves, 
with  unbuttoned  vest,  was  leaning  over  the  bar  from 
the  inside,  smoking  a  "  churchwarden "  pipe)  if  he 
could  tell  me  where  I  might  be  likely  to  find  Captain 
Bunker.  He  turned  a  liquorish  eye  upon  me,  and 
murmured,  between  the  puffs  of  smoke,  "What  might 
ye  be  wantin'  of  him'?"  "I'll  tell  him  when  I  see 
him,"  was  my  ready  re})ly ;  at  which  he  removed  his 
pipe  and  laughed  most  unmusically,  much  to  my 
annoyance,  as  I  did  not  feel  like  being  made  game 
of.  At  last  he  said,  "I'm  Captain  Bunker,  m'  lad; 
whadjer  want  of  me  ? "  For  a  moment  I  stared  at 
him  incredulously ;  and  then,  the  conviction  dawning 
on  me  that  he  was  speaking  the  truth,  I  told  him 
my  errand.  Immediately  he  assumed  a  magisterial 
air,  and  began  to  cross-examine  me  as  to  my  qualifi- 
cations, etc.  My  replies  being  satisfactory,  he  then 
tried  to  cut  me  down  in  the  wages.  But  I  held  out 
for  three  pounds  per  month,  and,  strange  to  say, 
succeeded  in  getting  his  consent  to  give  it  to  me ;  but 


PROSPERITY  PALLS    UPON  ME.  271 

not  before  he  assured  me  that,  if  I  couldn't  fulfil  what 
he  was  pleased  to  call  the  duties  of  an  ordinary  seaman, 
he  would  stop  my  pay  altogether.  As,  in  addition  to 
my  confidence  in  my  own  abilities,  I  knew  that  he 
was  talking  nonsense,  I  made  no  complaint  about  this ; 
and  he  drew  me  a  glass  of  ale  to  clinch  the  bargain. 
Then  he  told  me  I  might  go  on  board  and  consider 
myself  one  of  the  crew,  and  that  he  would  "  sign  me 
on  "  with  the  other  new  hands  in  a  day  or  two. 


272  TEE    LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 


•  CHAPTEPt   XXIII. 

ANOTHER    QUEER    SHIP. 

Having  thus  satisfactorily  arranged  for  my  future 
during  some  months,  at  all  events,  I  lost  no  time  in 
getting  on  board  my  new  ship,  finding  her  fairly  com- 
fortable, although  the  crew's  quarters  were  under  the 
top-gallant  forecastle — that  abominable  i)lace  that  no 
men  should  ever  be  housed  in.  She  was  called  the 
Harroivhy,  a  barque  of  some  five  hundred  tons,  and, 
as  nearly  as  I  could  judge,  about  twenty  years  old. 
She  had  been  absent  from  England  nearly  two  years, 
having  been  running  backwards  and  forwards  between 
the  Colonies  and  Mauritius  for  some  time,  and  was 
now,  in  the  absence  of  any  other  freight  offering,  going 
in  ballast  to  Eangoon  for  a  cargo  of  rice  to  the  United 
Kingdom.  Of  her  original  crew  but  half  was  left :  the 
captain,  mate,  and  second  mate  aft,  two  apprentices, 
the  carpenter,  and  three  seamen  forward.  The  mate 
was  a  tall,  wiry,  red-headed  Cumberland  man,  stern 
and  morose,  but  a  good  seaman,  and  inflexibly  just. 
The  second  mate  was  so  fat  and  easy-going  that  he 
looked  more  like  an  East-end  Jew  tailor  than  a  sailor ; 
but  he  was  a  very  jolly  fellow,  know-ing  his  business  well, 
and  thoroughly  independent,  so  that  he  stood  not  the 


ANOTHER    QUEER    SHIP.  273 

slightest  in  awe  of  bis  superior  officers,  but  did  pretty 
much  as  be  liked.  Tbe  two  apprentices  were  gentle- 
manly lads,  wbose  parents  bad  paid  heavy  premiums 
for  their  indentures  in  this  old  tub,  where  they  were 
just  loblolly  boys,  at  every  one's  beck  and  call,  no  one 
pretending  to  teach  them  anything,  and  kei)t  on  pre- 
cisely the  same  level  as  the  crew,  except  that  they  had 
a  little  pigstye  of  a  berth  to  themselves  beside  the 
carpenter's  in  a  house  on  deck.  Poor  lads  !  they  were 
bitterly  disillusioned,  and  full  of  projects  for  showing 
up  this  shameful  neglect  when  they  got  home  again. 
At  this  time  one  of  them  was  acting  as  cabin-boy,  and 
the  other  was  playing  at  cook,  with  such  casual  direction 
as  he  could  get  from  Hansen,  an  old  Danish  seaman. 
But,  generally  speaking,  the  hands  went  ashore  to 
dinner  and  chalked  their  bills  up  to  the  skipper's 
account.  The  old  carpenter  was  a  philosopher  in  his 
way.  Nobod}'  interfered  with  him,  and  he  just  muddled 
along  from  day  to  day,  finding  himself  enough  work 
to  keep  him  from  being  actually  idle,  and  coming 
forrard  every  evening  for  a  smoke  and  a  yarn  with 
old  Hansen,  who,  with  a  lanky  Irishman  and  a  pimply 
faced  young  cockney,  formed  for  the  present  the  whole 
of  the  crew  forrard. 

To  my  amazement  I  learned  that  for  nearly  a 
fortnight  the  vessel  had  been  ready  for  sea,  but  the  old 
man  was  so  enamoured  of  his  snug  quarters  behind  the 
bar  of  the  little  pub,  that  he  could  not  tear  himself 
away.  Nobody  seemed  to  care  very  much.  They  killed 
time  in  a  variety  of  ways,  making  believe  to  do  some 
work,  but  principally  occupied  in  "  dodging  Pompey." 
This    state  of  things  was   broken   into  by  my  advent. 

T 


274  THE   LOG    OF   A    SKA- WAIF. 

Whether  the  act  of  engaging  mo  had  recalled  Captain 
Bunker  to  a  sense  of  his  duty  or  not,  I  cannot  tell ;  but 
in  the  course  of  a  couple  of  days  we  were  joined  by  an 
elderly  Yankee  A.B.,  rejoicing  in  the  name  of  Oliver 
Peck,  an  ex-mounted  policeman,  whom  we  always  called 
Joe;  a  tall,  merry  Suffolk  man,  who  was  the  very 
incarnation  of  good-humour ;  a  white-faced  Scotchman, 
who  said  he  had  been  chief  cook  of  a  huge  steamship 
called  the  Mikado,  and  had  just  shipped  with  us  as 
cook  to  work  his  passage  home ;  another  ordinary 
seaman,  like  myself  a  Londoner,  but  twice  the  man  I 
was ;  and  a  delicate,  artful  little  fellow,  about  my  own 
age,  who  shipped  as  cabin-boy.  Now  we  had  a  full 
crew,  and  soon  the  skipper  made  his  appearance  on 
board,  marching  us  up  to  the  shipping-office  with  him 
in  great  pomp  and  putting  us  all  on  the  articles. 
Having  once  broken  the  spell  that  had  bound  him  to 
the  pub,  he  kept  free,  remaining  on  board  that  night, 
and  hauling  off  into  the  channel  at  daylight  ready  to 
sail.  But  while  we  were  actually  getting  under  way 
a  boat  came  alongside,  bearing  a  lady  in  deep  mourning 
and  an  ofticial,  who  mounted  the  side,  and  solemnl}' 
presenting  the  skipper  with  a  piece  of  stamped  paper, 
informed  him  that  he  had  come  to  stop  the  ship  until 
all  charges  due  to  Mrs.  Blank,  landlady  of  the  St. 
Margaret's  Hotel,  for  board,  lodging,  and  refreshments 
supplied,  had  been  settled.  The  old  man  made  a  ghastly 
attempt  to  smile,  but  the  thing  was  too  palpable. 
Besides,  all  his  crew  were  witnesses  of  his  attempt  to 
pay  the  widow  with  the  "  foretopsail  sheet,"  as  sailors 
say,  and,  hugely  as  tlteij  enjoyed  the  spectacle,  he 
looked  as  if  he  had  been  suddenly  attacked  by  cliolera 


ANOTHER    QUEER   SHIP.  -275 

inorhns.  There  was  no  help  for  it ;  he  had  to  pay  up, 
although  how  he  did  it  I  don't  know.  x\t  any  rate  he 
succeeded  in  satisfying  the  bailiff,  who  bade  him  an 
elaborate  farewell  and  descended  to  the  boat,  where  the 
widow  was  volubly  holding  forth,  in  our  delighted  hear- 
ing, upon  the  many  delinquencies  of  our  skipper.  The 
news  of  the  settlement  of  her  claim  only  seemed  to 
add  fuel  to  her  fire,  and,  as  long  as  she  was  within 
hearing,  she  continued  to  favour  us  with  a  minute 
account  of  the  many  acts  and  deeds  of  meanness  of 
which  Captain  Bunker  had  been  guilty.  As  the  shrill 
sounds  grew  fainter,  I  could  not  help  thinking  that  it 
was  an  inauspicious  commencement  for  our  voyage  ; 
and,  in  accordance  with  an  old  mental  trick  of  mine, 
began  to  run  over  in  my  mind  the  probable  state  of  my 
feelings  had  I  been  in  the  skipper's  place.  There  was 
quite  a  little  spell  of  silence  after  the  boat's  departure, 
during  which  all  hands  looked  first  at  one  another  and 
then  at  the  rubicund  face  of  the  skipper,  which  bore  a 
peculiar  vacant  smile,  but  not  the  slightest  symptom 
of  shame.  At  last  the  uneasy  quiet  was  broken  by 
the  harsh  voice  of  Mr.  Messenger,  our  chief,  shouting, 
"  Man  the  windlass  !  "  In  an  instant  we  were  all  busy 
again,  and  did  not  cease  our  labours  until  the  old 
barque,  under  all  canvas,  was  gliding  gently  down  the 
beautiful  bay  towards  the  wide  Pacific. 

At  first  my  hopes  were  high  that  we  should  be  going 
north  about,  for,  in  addition  to  a  strong  desire  to  avoid 
the  unpleasantness  inseparable  from  working  to  the 
westward  through  the  Great  Australian  Bight,  I  was 
anxious  to  see  something  of  the  East  Indian  Archi- 
pelago.    But  the  thought  of   Torres    Straits,  with   its 


276  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

intricacies  and  baffling  currents,  was  evidently  too  much 
for  Captain  Bunker's  courage  or  confidence  in  liis  navi- 
gating ability,  for  we  made  the  best  of  our  way  to  the 
southward  as  soon  as  we  were  well  clear  of  the  Heads. 
At  the  picking  of  watches  I  found  myself,  much  to  my 
satisfaction,  under  the  second  mate,  who  seemed  to 
have  some  little  liking  for  me  as  his  townsman.  My 
watch-mates  were  the  Yankee,  Oliver,  the  ex-policeman, 
and  the  Suffolker.  As  I  could  steer,  and,  except  for 
being  rather  a  light  weight  on  a  rope,  was  well  up  to 
my  work,  we  felt  pretty  well  manned  on  our  side.  But 
the  mate's  watch  came  worse  off,  as  their  "ordinary" 
could  not  steer.  Oh,  it  was  weary  work  after  my  late 
life  of  ease  !  The  deadly  slowness  of  our  progress,  too, 
down  the  coast  I  had  been  used  to  skirt  with  the  regu- 
larity of  a  railway-train,  was  hard  to  bear.  And,  in 
addition  to  all  this,  I  soon  found  that  my  poor  three 
pounds  a  month  was  rankling  in  the  skipper's  mind, 
and  he  was  determined  to  try  and  reduce  it  if  possible. 
I  got  a  friendly  hint  or  two  from  the  second  mate,  who, 
although  he  liked  me  well  enough,  certainly  did  not 
intend  to  openly  side  with  me  against  the  old  man.  In 
most  matters,  it  is  true,  he  treated  the  skipper  with 
such  scant  courtesy  that  I  was  amazed,  but  he  put  in 
no  word  of  backing  for  me.  A  fortnight  passed  away, 
and  we  had  all  fairly  shaken  down  into  sea-life,  while  I, 
by  strenuous  efforts,  had  managed  to  recall  all  my 
previous  experience  and  use  it,  with  the  added  benefit 
of  my  additional  strength.  What  troubled  me  most  were 
the  stun'sails.  Studding-sails,  as  the  word  should  be 
spelt,  are  the  hetes  noircs  of  seamen.  Modern  vessels 
have    practically    discarded    them,   happily    for    their 


A  NO  TREE    QUEER    SHIP.  277 

crews  ;  but  such  vessels  as  the  Harrotchy  chng  to  them 
as  long  as  they  live.  They  are  temporary  sails,  which 
in  fair  weather  are  set  at  the  ends  of  some  of  the  yards, 
thereb}^  extending  the  spread  of  canvas  (when  they  are 
carried  on  both  sides)  to  nearly  double  its  normal 
width.  They  are  set  by  means  of  booms,  which  slide 
along  in  two  hoops  screwed  into  bands  on  the  yards. 
These  booms  vary  in  size,  of  course,  with  the  ship, 
and  also  with  the  height  at  which  they  are  carried  ; 
but  even  a  top-gallant  stun'sail-boom,  the  size  of  an 
average  scaffold-pole,  which  has  to  be  rigged  out  by 
one  man,  or  even  a  boy,  is  a  quite  heavy  enough 
piece  of  timber  to  have  loose  on  your  hands,  or  hand 
(since  you  )iiust  hold  on),  while  swaying  on  a  footrope 
some  eighty  or  ninety  feet  above  the  deck.  Then 
the  sails  themselves,  with  their  complicated  gear,  re- 
quire deft  handling  to  get  them  adjusted  in  their  lofty 
positions,  and  as  the  upper  ones  need  to  be  taken  into 
the  tops,  there  is  some  fancy  gymnastic  work  involved 
in  handling  them,  which  generally  falls  to  the  boys. 
But  when  they  are  set,  if  there  is  any  wind  worth  men- 
tioning, and  the  vessel  does  not  steer  well,  the  helmsman 
has  a  bad  time,  for  their  gear  being  necessarily  slight 
and  simple,  catching  them  aback  is  apt  to  bring  them 
down  by  the  run  in  a  raffle  of  ropes,  torn  canvas,  and 
splintered  booms.  These  delights  on  a  dark,  wet  night 
cannot  be  explained ;  they  must  be  endured  to  be 
appreciated.  No  doubt  a  ship  with  stun'sails  set  below 
and  aloft,  flying  along  with  a  steady  breeze  just  abaft 
the  beam,  the  golden  sunlight  glancing  on  her  canvas, 
and  making  her  look  like  a  mountain  of  snow,  while 
the  sparkling  wavelets  leap  around  her  or  are  churned 


278  TIIK  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

into  lovely  wreaths  of  dazzling  foam  by  the  eager  sheer 
of  her  cutwater,  makes  a  magnificent  picture,  and  one 
that  will  be  soon  only  seen  in  pictures.  But  when  one 
remembers  the  cruel  toil  and  deadly  danger  attached  to 
these  "%ing  kites,"  as  sailors  term  them,  one  can 
only  feel  devoutly  thankful  that  their  day  is  done. 
Unfortunately,  in  the  Ilan'oirhi/  we  were  continually 
harassed  by  these  wretched  things,  which  was  the  more 
aggravating  as  she  was  a  dull  sailer,  to  whom  they 
made  not  a  shadow  of  difference  as  far  as  anj'  accelera- 
tion of  her  speed  went.  But  we  accepted  them  grum- 
blingly,  as  sailors  do  any  other  crook  in  their  never 
very  straight  lot.  Nevertheless  I  felt  pretty  sure  that, 
sooner  or  later,  I  should  suffer  in  some  severe  way  from 
them,  and  the  fulfilment  of  my  forebodings  was  not 
long  delayed.  We  got  a  heavy  breeze  from  the  north- 
east off  Cape  Leeuwin,  and  the  skipper,  laudably 
anxious  to  get  round  that  awkward  corner  and  up  north 
into  finer  weather,  carried  on  all  the  sail  the  old  barky 
could  stagger  under,  including  topmast  and  lower 
stun'sails.  Now  the  Ilarroichy  steered  none  too  w^ell  at 
the  best  of  times,  for  she  was  fitted  with  the  old- 
fashioned  chain  and  barrel  steering-gear,  that  made  a 
two  hours'  trick  at  the  wheel  a  fairly  stiff"  ordeal  for  a 
youngster  like  me.  By  dint  of  the  hardest  ^trjang, 
however,  I  had  managed  so  far  to  get  along  without 
more  than  an  occasional  growl  from  the  skipper  to  the 
effect  that  I  was  making  a  devilish  bad  course.  At  last, 
on  the  night  in  question,  I  came  aft  at  four  bells,  fully 
equipped  in  oilskins,  for  it  was  raining  as  well  as 
blowing.  As  I  reached  to  take  the  spokes  from  Oliver, 
he  muttered,  "  Yew'd  better  shed  them  oilskins,  er  she'll 


ANOTHER    QUEER    SHIP.  279 

sweat  yer  hull  soul  out.  She's  kickin'  like  a  broncho." 
I  took  his  advice,  preferring  to  get  wet  than  to  be 
hampered  by  too  many  coverings  at  such  a  task.  It 
was  as  dark  as  the  inside  of  a  coal-sack,  so  that  there 
was  nothing  to  steer  by  but  the  compass  and  the 
"feel"  of  the  wheel,  which  every  sailor  knows  is 
not  conducive  to  keeping  a  straight  course,  as  the 
compass,  however  lively,  never  moves  at  the  same 
moment  the  ship's  head  does,  and  consequently  you 
can't  meet  her  with  the  helm  as  quickly  as  when  the 
stars  or  clouds  are  visible  and  indicate  her  slightest 
movement.  Besides,  the  "old  man"  was  on  deck, 
and,  before  I  had  time  to  get  into  her  present  peculi- 
arities, he  was  at  me  with,  "  Now,  then !  mind  y'r 
weather  helium.     Where  th'  hell  er  ye  goin'  with  the 

ship?     Meet  her — meet  her!     D n  your  eyes,  meet 

her!  Goin'  to  sleep — er  what?"  and  so  on.  I  might 
have  done  fairly  well  but  for  this  brutal  nagging ;  but 
now  I  certainly  steered  badly,  and  the  thought  of 
wiping  her  up  into  the  wind  and  bringing  all  that 
rafSe  of  stun'sails  and  gear  down  about  the  ears  of 
the  watch  on  deck  made  me  as  nervous  as  a  cat. 
However,  I  sculled  her  along  somehow — about  two 
points  each  way,  I  reckon — the  "old  man"  keeping 
up  a  running  commentary  all  the  time,  until  sud- 
denly, along  came  a  howling  big  sea,  hitting  her  on 
the  weather-quarter  and  sending  a  dense  mass  of 
spray  right  over  the  quarter-deck,  drenching  my  tor- 
mentor and  twisting  her  up  into  the  wind  till  the 
weather-leech  of  the  lower  stun'sails  began  to  flap. 
Down  sprang  the  second  mate  to  my  assistance,  and 
hove  the  wheel  up  so  that  she  spun  off  the  wind  again 


280  TEE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAJF. 

like  a  weather-cock,     "  Oli,   we  can't   have  any  more 

of  this!"  yelled   the  old   man.     "That  fellow's 

no  good.  'Nother  hand  to  the  wheel  I "  "  'Nother  hand 
to  the  wheel !  "  roared  the  second  mate ;  and  I  declare 
I  wasn't  sorry,  though  my  pride  w^as  sorely  hurt  at 
the  injustice  of  the  thing.  The  Suffolker  came  aft, 
good-humoured  as  was  his  wont,  and  smiled  pleasantly 
as  he  took  the  wheel  from  my  clammj''  hands.  He 
favoured  me  with  a  sly  wink,  too,  as  much  as  to  say, 
"  Now  you'll  see  some  fun  ! "  As  I  went  forrard  along 
the  lee  alley-way,  the  old  man  followed  me,  saying, 
"I'll  log  ye  to-morrow.  I'll  show  ye  how  ter  come 
aboard  my  ship  on  false  pretences."  This  did  my 
business,  and  I  turned  savagely  round,  saying,  "  I 
can  steer  as  well  as  any  man  in  the  ship  if  I'm  let 
alone,  and  you  know  that.     You  only  want  an  excuse 

to  stop  my  wages "    Further  remarks  were  drowned 

in  a  tremendous  roar  of  tumbling  water  and  cracking 
spars  as  the  ship  flew  up  into  the  wind,  taking  a  mighty 
mass  of  black  sea  over  all,  and  bringing  the  stun'sails 
down  with  a  uproar  truly  terrific.  "All  hands  on 
deck !  Tumble  up,  there  !  Shorten  sail !  "  screamed 
the  skipper,  fairly  dancing  in  his  excitement.  Well, 
there  n-as  a  mess,  and  no  mistake !  It  took  us  three 
hours  of  hard  struggle  before  we  got  her  clear  and 
shortened  down,  and  during  that  time  there  were  as 
many  curses  levelled  at  the  old  sinner  as  would  have 
sunk  the  British  Navj^  if  their  weight  had  been  pro- 
portionate to  the  wishes  of  their  utterers.  For  my 
part  I  was  speechless  with  delight,  for  I  felt  if  ever 
a  poor  fellow  was  vindicated  promptly  it  was  me.  The 
diversion  gave  us  all  sore  bones,  though ;  and  when, 


ANOTHER    QUEER    SHIP.  281 

at  last,  we  got  below,  we  were  almost  too  weary  to 
growl.  Stripping  off  our  drenched  rags  we  tumbled 
into  our  bunks,  and  slept  so  soundly  that  the  two  hours 
and  a  half  left  of  our  watch  seemed  only  like  five 
minutes.  I  took  my  usual  trick  at  the  wheel  again 
without  comment ;  but  after  breakfast,  to  my  amaze- 
ment, I  was  called  down  into  the  cabin.  The  skipper 
solemnly  read  to  me  an  entry  in  the  Official  Logbook 

to  the  effect  that  on   the  night   of  ,  in   lat.    — , 

long.  — ,  it  having  been  found  that  I  could  not  steer, 
I  was  sent  from  the  wheel,  as  unfit  for  my  work, 
and,  in  consequence,  m}"  wages  were  reduced  to  one 
pound  per  month.  This  libel  was  signed  by  the  second 
mate  as  a  witness.  I  was  then  invited  to  sign  it ; 
but  I  refused,  saying  that  the  entry  was  false,  and 
appealing  to  the  second  mate  to  support  my  protest. 
He,  standing  behind  the  skipper,  gave  me  a  reassuring 
wink  which  cheered  me  mightily,  and,  after  bandying  a 
few  more  compliments  with  the  skipper,  I  was  told  to 
"  Get  out  of  my  cabin."  The  events  of  the  past  night 
were  the  subject  of  a  good  deal  of  comment  forrard, 
and  the  general  conclusion  arrived  at  was  that  the 
old  man  was  no  good,  and  any  deference  or  politeness 
towards  him  might  usefully  be  dropped  in  future. 

But  something  happened  that  day  which,  although 
in  no  wise  the  skipper's  fault,  made  the  feeling  of 
insubordination  ten  times  stronger  than  it  otherwise 
would  have  been.  Hitherto  we  had  been  living  fairly 
well  upon  fresh  meat  and  vegetables,  although  the 
cooking  was  very  bad.  The  pasty-faced  Scotchman 
who  had  shipped  as  cook  might  have  been  cook  of  the 
Mikado    as    he    said;    but,    if    so,    he    had    certainly 


282  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

forgotten  the  most  elementary  portion  of  his  duties. 
Having  just  come  to  an  end  of  the  fresh  provisions, 
he  informed  us  pompously  that  he  was  going  to  ma'ke 
us  "duff"  to-day,  "An',  ma  wurrd,"  said  he,  with  an 
air,  "  a'll  gie  ye  somethin'  ye  ccoi  eat  !  Ye  dinna  ken 
whatn'  duff's  like  aboord  ther  win'jammers."  As  may 
he  imagined,  we  were  in  high  glee  at  the  prospect  of 
such  a  notable  benefit  as  high-class  duff  would  be. 
The  last  stroke  was  hardly  off  the  bell  at  seven  bells 
before  I  was  at  the  galley  with  the  kid,  my  mouth 
watering  in  anticipation  of  this  superlative  duff.  But 
it  strikes  me  that  the  subsequent  proceedings  were 
important  enough  for  a  new  chapter. 


(     283      ) 


CHAPTEE   XXIV 


DEEP-WATER    AMENITIES. 


The  cook  stood  by  the  galley  stove,  swelling  with 
conscious  dignit}^  as  of  a  man  whose  position  is  unas- 
sailable— above  criticism.  "  Now  then,  cook  !  "  I  cried, 
"  where's  that  duff?"  For  all  answer  he  seized  his 
"tormentors" — a  sort  of  miniature  pitchfork — and 
began  jabbing  them  down  into  the  seething  copper. 
"Look  out,  cook!"  I  said,  in  terror,  "you'll  bust  the 
duff-bag,  won't  you  ? "  No  answer  deigned  he,  but 
presently,  with  a  mighty  heave  of  both  hands,  he  pro- 
duced a  square  grey  mass  of  something  unlike  anything 
edible  that  ever  I  had  seen.  This  he  dumped  into  the 
kid  without  a  word,  and  waved  his  hand  to  bid  me 
begone.  Too  much  amazed  to  speak,  I  bore  the  ugly 
thing  into  the  fo'lk'sle,  setting  it  down  in  the  midst  of 
my  expectant  watch-mates,  and  silently  retired  to  my 
corner  in  hungry  anticipation  of  some  fun  presently. 
Joe  approached  the  kid,  knife  and  plate  in  hand,  but 
on  seeing  the  contents,  drew  back  with  a  start  and  an 

exclamation  of  "  What  the is  that  ?  "     "  Duff,  the 

cook  calls  it,"  I  murmured  softly.     "AVell,  I'll  be 

if  ever  I  see  or  smelt  anvthhi"  like  it  in  all  mv  life,"  said 


284  THE  LOO    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

he  ;  "  but  p'raps  it  eats  better'n  it  looks,  so  here  goes." 
So  saying,  he  attacked  it  with  his  knife,  hut  only  suc- 
ceeded in  removing  some  sodden,  sloppy  morsels  from 
the  outside  of  the  lump.  Upon  the  stuif  itself  he  could 
make  no  impression ;  it  was  like  a  piece  of  indurated 
gutta-percha.  Heavens  !  how  he  did  swear.  Then 
Oliver  had  a  tr}' ;  but  in  a  minute  he,  too,  was  reciting 
the  commination  service.  For  the  mess  was  hopeless. 
It  was  nothing  but  a  mixture  of  flour  and  water,  without 
yeast  or  fat,  which  had  been  roughly  moulded  into  a 
square,  and,  without  any  covering,  had  been  dropped 
into  a  cauldron  of  boiling,  dirty  sea-water.  Of  course 
it  had  hardened  and  toughened,  as  well  as  attracted  to 
itself  all  the  suspended  grime  in  the  water,  until  it  had 
emerged  the  outrageous  abomination  before  us.  The 
men's  wrath  was  really  too  great  for  ordinary  bad 
language  ;  they  wanted  to  kill  somebody.  Presently 
Joe  snatched  up  the  kid  and  rushed  to  the  galley  with 
it,  but  the  cook  had  wisely  retreated  to  the  cabin. 
Thither  the  furious  men  followed  him,  shouting  in 
strident  tones  for  him  to  "  Come  out  of  that !  "  they 
wanted  to  speak  to  him.  Of  course  the  old  man  showed 
himself  first,  blustering  grandly  about  the  impudence 
that  thus  invaded  the  holy  calm  of  his  cabin.  This 
precipitated  matters,  and  in  about  a  minute  there  was 
a  furious  row.  It  culminated  presently  in  Joe  hurling 
the  kid  and  its  slippery  contents  right  into  the  cabin, 
and  striding  forward  with  a  savage  string  of  oaths  to 
the  eft'ect  that  not  another  stroke  would  he  do  until  he 
got  something  that  he  could  eat.  Quiet  reigned  for  a 
brief  space,  until  presently  Harry,  the  cabin  boy,  poked 
his  nose  round  the  fo'lk'sle  door,  saying  with  a  grin, 


DEEP-WATER    AMENITIES.  285 

"  Cook's  awful  sorry  he  spiled  the  duff,  but  he's  coming 
forrard  presently  with  a  tin  o'  soup  and  l)ully  as  soon's 
the  old  man's  back's  turned.  Don't  go  fer  him,  pore 
beggar!  he's  nearly  frightened  to  deth."  The  wrath 
having  been  mostly  diverted  to  the  skipper,  this  pro- 
position was  not  unfavourably  entertained,  and  in  due 
time  the  cook  sneaked  forrard  with  a  hang-dog  air,  a 
huge  tin  of  preserved  soup  under  his  apron.  And  so  it 
came  to  pass  that  peace  was  patched  up  for  the  time, 
although  this  outbreak  of  hostilities  made  the  way 
plain  and  easy  for  a  succession  of  rows,  until  the 
skipper's  authority  was  a  thing  of  naught.  To  make 
matters  worse  we  actually  fell  short  of  provisions. 
This  was  a  most  scandalous  thing  to  happen,  for  we 
were  only  six  weeks  out  from  Sydney,  where  all  sorts  of 
ship's  consumable  stores  were  both  excellent  and  cheap. 
And  we  were  informed  by  one  of  the  apprentices  that 
he  knew  for  a  fact  that  the  owners  had  ordered  Captain 
Bunker  to  provision  the  ship  fully  in  the  colonies  for 
this  very  reason.  We  were  stinted  in  everything ;  but 
by  the  connivance  of  the  cabin-boy,  Harry,  who  used  to 
leave  the  pantry  door  unlocked,  I  made  many  a  nightly 
raid  upon  its  contents,  such  as  they  were.  Many  a 
time  I  had  to  crouch  in  its  dark  recesses,  while  the  old 
man,  prowling  about  on  his  bare  feet,  was  peering  in 
and  inquiring  querulously,  "  Who's  there  ?  I  thought 
I  heard  somebody  !  "  The  instant  his  back  was  turned 
I  would  bolt  for  the  fo'lk'sle,  with  my  cap  full  of  sugar 
or  the  breast  of  my  jumper  full  of  cuddy  biscuits,  or 
whatever  spoil  was  comeatable.  These  nocturnal  depre- 
dations were  a  source  of  endless  delight  to  the  second 
mate,     His  fat  sides  would  shake  with  silent  laughter 


•28H  TJJE    LOG    OF   A    SFA-IVAIF. 

as  be  watched  the  stealtbj'  gli.lings  to  and  fro,  and 
heard  the  mutterings  of  the  suspicious  skipper,  who 
never  dared  say  a  wry  word  to  him.  One  night,  at  the 
wheel,  I  was  telHng  him  how  savagely  hungry  I  was, 
when,  to  my  amazement,  he  replied,  "Well,  there's  a 
meat  pie  on  the  swingin'  tray,  why  don't  ye  go  an' 
pinch  it?"  "What?"  I  said  in  a  horrified  whisper, 
"  an'  have  the  old  man  come  out  an'  catch  me  !  Why 
he'd  put  me  in  irons  for  a  month."  "  G'way,"  he 
muttered  scornfully,  "he'd  never  hear  ye.  No  man 
thet  smokes  ez  much  ez  he  does  is  a  light  sleeper.  You 
ain't  got  pluck  enough,  that's  what's  the  matter  with 
i/oii.  Yew'd  rather  go  hungry  than  run  a  little  risk." 
The  fact  was,  I  didn't  trust  him  any  too  much,  for  it 
occurred  to  me  that  it  might  fall  in  with  his  notions  of 
fun  to  see  the  old  man  come  out  and  muzzle  me  in  the 
very  act  of  embezzling  that  pie.  His  next  move,  how- 
ever, completely  dissipated  all  my  fears.  For  he  rolled 
off  the  hencoop,  where  he  had  been  lolling,  and  dis- 
appeared below,  returning  in  a  few  minutes  with  the 
information  that  he  had  lashed  the  old  man's  state-room 
door-handles  together,  so  that  he  couldn't  get  out  if  he 
did  wake.  I  immediately  resigned  the  wheel  to  him, 
shot  down  into  the  darkness,  and  had  that  pie  on  deck 
before  you  could  count  ten.  I  sat  on  the  break  of  the 
poop  and  ate  it,  while  the  second  mate  steered  as  well  as 
he  could  for  laughing  at  the  precipitous  disappearance 
of  the  pie.  When  I  had  concealed  it  all,  I  replaced  the 
empty  dish  on  the  swinging  tray,  and  returned  to  the 
wheel.  Then  the  second  mate  cast  adrift  the  lashings 
on  the  door,  and  all  resumed  its  normal  calm,  preceding 
the    hurricane   at   breakfast-time,  when   the   loss  was 


DEEP-WATEli   AMENITIES.  287 

discovered.  But  there  was  no  breach  of  confidence,  and 
the  vanished  pie  took  its  place  among  the  unsolved 
mysteries  of  life  for  Captain  Bunker. 

As  we  crept  closer  and  closer  to  our  port,  favoured 
b}'  fine  weather,  discipline  disappeared  altogether  as 
far  as  the  skipper  was  concerned.  "Work  still  went  on 
as  usual  out  of  deference  to  the  oflicers,  with  whom  the 
chaps  felt  they  had  no  quarrel,  but  if  the  old  man 
opened  his  mouth  he  was  sure  to  be  insulted  by  some- 
body. I  have  not  told — indeed,  I  dare  not  tell — a  tithe 
of  the  things  that  were  said  to  him  ;  the  only  persons 
preserving  any  show  of  deference  towards  him  being 
old  Hansen  and  the  boys.  The  officers,  of  course,  did 
not  openly  flout  him — they  just  ignored  him,  while  he 
almost  cringed  to  them.  And  then  one  day,  a  week 
before  our  arrival  off  the  mouth  of  the  Irrawaddy, 
Harry  came  forrard  and  told  us  something  that  made 
sport  for  all  hands  for  the  rest  of  that  voyage.  Every- 
body was  hungry  now,  fore  and  aft,  the  commons  being 
woefully  short.  But  at  the  usual  time  for  taking  the 
forenoon  sights  for  longitude,  the  skipper  being  in  his 
state-room  with  the  door  shut,  Harry  went  to  call  him, 
supposing  him  to  be  asleep.  After  knocking  two  or 
three  times,  Harry  heard  a  mufHed  voice  within  saying, 
"Go  away,  I'm  at  my  devotions."  Such  a  statement 
took  Harry's  breath  away  for  a  moment,  but  yielding 
to  an  uncontrollable  impulse,  he  stooped  and  peeped 
through  the  keyhole.  There  sat  Captain  Bunker,  a 
square  tin  of  biscuits  between  his  knees,  a  pot  of  jam 
open  by  his  side,  and  his  mouth  bulging  with  the 
delicate  food.  Harry  had  seen  enough ;  and  in  ten 
minutes   it   was   all   over  the   ship.     From   that   time 


288  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

fol•^Yarcl,  "  Don't  disturb  me,  I'm  at  my  devotions," 
was  heard  "whenever  it  was  possible  to  drag  it  in,  until 
the  monotonous  repetition  of  the  phrase  became  weari- 
some as  a  London  catch-word.  It  annoyed  the  skipper 
almost  to  madness ;  but  that  only  gave  delight  to  the 
men,  who  felt  that  at  last  they  had  got  hold  of  a  cheap 
and  effective  way  of  repaying  him  for  the  hardships 
they  were  enduring  through  him. 

We  were  favoured  with  splendid  weather,  although 
the  north-east  monsoon,  being  almost  ''  dead  on  end  " — 
that  is,  blowing  right  from  the  direction  in  which  we 
had  to  go — made  our  progress  exasperatingly  slow ;  and 
as  the  scanty  stock  of  bad  provisions  got  lower  and 
lower  the  gloomiest  anticipations  prevailed.  But  we 
managed  to  reach  Elephant  Point  before  we  were  quite 
starved,  and  with  the  utmost  joy  received  a  white  pilot 
on  board,  who,  finding  that  he  was  likely  to  hunger  if 
he  had  to  make  any  lengthened  stay  with  us,  used  all 
his  skill  to  get  us  into  port  quickly.  There  were  some 
fine  screw-tugs  plying  on  the  Irrawaddy,  but,  of  course, 
we  could  not  avail  ourselves  of  their  assistance,  the 
towage  being  enormously  high,  and  our  old  man  most 
anxious  to  curtail  expenses  to  balance  his  waste  in 
other  directions.  So  we  were  treated  to  an  exhibition 
of  backing  and  filling  up  the  river  on  the  flood,  just 
as  the  old  Geordie  colliers  do  to  this  day  up  the  Thames  : 
a  feat  of  seamanship  requiring  a  great  deal  of  skill 
for  its  successful  accomplishment.  Of  course  the  tide 
will  carry  a  vessel  up  the  river,  but  it  is  necessary 
to  keep  her  under  control,  and,  with  the  wind  blow- 
ing straight  down  the  river,  the  only  way  of  doing 
this  is  to  stand  across  the  stream,  say  on  the  starboard 


DEEP-WATER   AMENITIES.  289 

tack,  with  all  sails  full ;  then,  when  as  far  as  possible 
has  been  sailed,  to  haul  the  yards  aback,  and  go  stern 
foremost  back  again.  In  this  manner  we  worked  up 
the  noble  stream,  finding  ourselves  at  the  turn  of  the 
tide  within  a  few  miles  of  our  destination,  at  a  spot 
known  as  Monkey  Point.  Here  we  anchored  for  the 
night,  the  rushing  of  the  swift  ebb  past  us  keeping  up 
a  continual  undertone  of  energy,  and  straining  our 
cable  out  taut  as  if  we  were  stemming  a  gale.  All 
manner  of  bloodthirsty  insects  boarded  us  in  battalions, 
lured  in  our  direction,  doubtless,  by  the  smell  of  fresh 
supplies  of  food,  and  through  their  united  efforts  we 
spent  a  most  miserable  night.  So  much  were  we 
tormented,  that  when  daylight  called  us  to  resume  our 
journey  we  were  languid  and  worn-out,  hardly  able  to 
tear  the  anchor  from  its  tremendous  hold  upon  the 
thick,  elastic  mud  forming  the  bed  of  the  river.  We  got 
under  way  at  last,  however,  and  then  another  couple 
of  hours  brought  us  up  to  the  anchorage  off  the  city, 
where  a  great  fleet  of  steamers  and  ships  lay  loading 
rice,  mostly  for  India,  for  the  relief  of  a  famine  which 
was  then  raging. 

We  moored  with  an  anchor  ahead  and  another 
astern,  as  is  usual  in  crowded  anchorages,  so  that  the 
vessel,  as  I  have  before  explained,  swings  round  and 
round  as  if  moored  to  a  post,  taking  up  little  more 
room  than  her  own  length.  In  many  respects  this  was 
the  strangest  place  that  I  had  yet  visited,  the  j)ointed 
spires  of  the  numerous  pagodas  rising  out  of  the  dense 
leafage  giving  the  city,  a  truly  Eastern  appearance, 
while  the  loft}^  shining  summit  of  the  great  pagoda  domi- 
nated everything  else.     As  soon  as  the  work  of  furling 

V 


290  THE    LOG    OF  A    8EA-WA1F. 

sails  aDtl  clearing  up  decks  was  clone — as  the  skipper 
had  hurried  ashore — we  were  allowed  the  remainder  of 
the  day  to  rest,  and,  rigging  up  an  awning  over  the  fore- 
castle, we  proceeded  to  enjoy  ourselves.  Here  the  boats 
arc  propelled  by  the  boatmen  in  exactly  the  same  way 
as  a  gondola  is,  and  the  way  those  fellows  managed  their 
cumbrous  craft  in  the  swift  current  was  something 
compelling  all  our  admiration.  The  native  vessels,  too, 
that  came  majestically  gliding  down  from  far  up  country 
laden  with  rice  for  shipment,  were  the  most  interesting 
that  I  had  yet  seen.  They  were  of  large  size,  some 
of  them  carrying  fifty  tons  of  cargo,  and  roofed  in  by 
a  deeply  slanting  covering  of  bamboo  mats  to  protect 
the  cargo.  Both  stern  and  bow  rose  in  a  graceful  curve, 
while  the  stem  often  towered  high  in  air — a  perpendi- 
cular beam  of  teak  most  richly  carved  into  elaborate 
designs  of  the  quaintest  and  most  eerie  character.  A 
tiny  deck  aft  accommodated  the  steersman,  who  with 
great  effort  manipulated  a  gigantic  oar  working  through 
a  hole  in  the  stern,  also  richly  carved  and  decorated 
in  some  cases  with  gilding.  But  the  men — the  yellow, 
almond-eyed  Burmese — not  satisfied  with  the  prodigious 
amount  of  labour  expended  on  the  adornment  of  their 
craft,  decorated  their  own  bodies  so  elaborately  that  it 
was  difficult  to  understand  however  they  could  have 
borne  the  tedium  of  the  tattooing,  to  say  nothing  of  the 
pain.  No  people  in  the  world  carry  the  practice  of 
tattooing  to  such  artistic  lengths  as  the  Burmese 
universally  do.  Every  man  we  saw  had  a  magnificent 
series  of  designs  covering  his  trunk  to  the  waist, 
executed  in  vermilion,  and  representing  flowers,  animals, 
and  graceful  whorls  filling  in  any  spaces  too  small  to 


DEEP-WATER   AMENITIES.  291 

allow  of  anythiDg  else  being  tattooed  there.  From 
the  waist  to  the  knees  they  were  tattooed  in  blue,  the 
designs  being  plainer  and  not  so  artistic  as  above. 
They  were  a  jolly,  cheerful  lot ;  but  dignified,  too, 
having  none  of  the  exuberance  of  the  negro  about  them. 
Just  across  the  river,  opposite  to  where  we  lay, 
was  a  great  saw-mill,  where  a  herd  of  a  dozen  elephants 
were  gravely  occupied  in  drawing  teak-logs  from  rafts 
in  the  water  up  through  the  mud,  and  piling  them 
in  stacks  well  above  high-water  mark.  They  worked 
in  couples,  and  seemed  to  need  no  du'ecting  what  to 
do.  Two  or  three  natives  lounged  about  among  them ; 
Imt  every  effort  they  made  was  apparently  the  result 
of  their  own  initiative  as  far  as  could  be  seen.  They 
worked  in  couples — sedately,  ponderously ;  but  the 
sum-total  of  their  labour  was  quite  in  keeping  with 
their  huge  bulk.  One  enormous  beast  was  aiDi)arently 
the  foreman  (our  fellows  called  him  the  bo'sun).  He 
roamed  about  leisurely,  bearing  in  his  trunk  a  couple 
of  yards  of  massive  chain,  which  he  flourished  now 
and  then  as  if  it  were  a  scourge  which  he  would  use 
upon  his  toiling  charges  should  he  see  fit  to  encourage 
them  to  more  strenuous  effort.  But  as  we  stared  at 
the  strange  sight  with  intense  interest,  there  was  a 
jet  of  steam  from  the  mill,  a  deep  whistle  sounded, 
and  on  the  instant  every  elephant  dropped  whatever 
he  had  in  his  trunk  and,  with  quickened  steps,  made 
for  his  quarters.     It  was  "  knock-off  time." 

Work  proceeded  in  a  very  easy-going  fashion,  for 
the  captain  had  taken  up  his  quarters  on  shore  and 
did  not  return  for  several  days,  being  supposed  by 
all  of  us  to  have  entered  upon  a  steady  course  of  spree. 


292  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WJJF. 

"We  got  the  hold  ready  to  receive  the  cargo,  and  did 
such  other  duties  as  were  required  of  us,  without  any 
undue  strain  upon  our  energies,  while  our  bumboatman 
kept  us  well  supplied  with  all  such  luxuries,  in  the 
way  of  fruit,  soft-tack,  eggs,  etc.,  as  sailors  delight 
in  in  Indian  ports.  Matters  proceeded  in  this  way 
until  one  day  an  order  came  off  from  the  skipper 
that  an  anchor-watch  must  be  kept.  This  meant  that, 
instead  of  one  man  keeping  watch  all  night,  and  being 
free  from  any  other  duty,  every  man  must  take  one 
hour's  watch  in  addition  to  his  day's  work.  Now,  this 
sort  of  vigil  is  only  kept  during  a  temporary  anchorage, 
never  as  a  harbour  duty;  and,  consequently',  there  was 
an  instant  refusal  to  obey  unless  the  day's  work  was 
shortened.  The  officers,  having  no  authority  to  do 
this,  refused  to  entertain  the  idea,  and  the  result  was 
that  no  regular  watch  was  kept  at  all.  Two  or  three 
nights  iDassed  until,  in  the  midst  of  a  tremendous  storm 
of  thunder,  lightning,  and  rain,  I  was  roused  by  old 
Hansen  with  the  words,  "Tom,  id's  your  vatch,  und 
de  olt  man's  'longside,  kigging  up  de  fery  teufel  cause 
dere's  nopody  avake."  I  was  lying  on  the  forecastle- 
head  under  the  awning,  nearly  stifled  with  the  heat; 
and,  muttering  a  blessing  upon  the  old  man,  I  jralled 
off  my  sole  garment  and  sallied  forth  into  the  black, 
steaming  deluge  in  the  costume  of  Adam  before  the 
fall.  As  I  reached  the  gangway  the  old  man  just 
climbed  on  board ;  and  at  that  moment  a  flash  of 
lightning  revealed  everything  as  if  in  full  noonday  glare 
—especially  my  shining  white  skin.  He  was  just  angry 
drunk ;  and  the  sight  of  me  standing  there,  naked  and 
not  ashamed,  nearly  made  him  split  with   rage.     He 


DEEP-WATER   AMENITIES.  293 

howled  like  a  lij-ena  for  the  mate,  who,  startled  beyond 
measure,  came  rushing  out  of  his  cabin  into  the  flood. 
Turning  savagely  to  him,  the  skipper,  almost  unintelli- 
gibly, demanded  the  reason  of  this  disgraceful  state 
of  affairs— pointing  to  me,  standing,  like  Lot's  wife, 
under  the  incessant  play  of  the  lightning.  It  was  an 
ii'resistibly  funny  tableau.  Over  the  rail  peered  the 
black  faces  and  glaring  eyeballs  of  the  Hindu  boatmen 
who  had  brought  the  skipper  off,  their  impassive  faces 
showing  no  sign  of  the  wonder  they  must  have  felt  at 
these  unprecedented  proceedings.  The  hissing  down- 
pour of  rain  descended  pitilessly,  its  noise  almost 
drowning  the  infuriated  voice  of  Captain  Bunker,  who, 
foaming  with  rage,  be-rated  the  saturnine  mate.  Every 
other  second  we  were  all  invisible  to  each  other — the 
darkness  engulfed  us.  Then  a  rending  glare  of  white 
light  revealed  us  all  again,  standing  as  if  posing  for 
om*  portraits.  The  mate  tired  of  it  first,  and,  turning 
to  me,  said  grimly,  "  Go  an'  get  some  close  on. 
Y'ought  ter  be  'shamed  o'  yerself  comin'  aft  like  that." 
I  instantly  retreated  forrard,  while  the  old  man,  still 
raging,  followed  the  mate  as  he  returned  to  his  cabin 
without  deigning  a  word  of  reply.  I  rigged  myself 
hurriedly  and  came  aft  again,  prepared  to  keep  the 
rest  of  my  watch  under  the  poop-awning  in  such 
comfort  as  I  could.  But  I  had  hardly  lit  a  cigar 
(the  rupee  a  hundred  sort),  and  settled  myself  cosily 
in  the  skipper's  long  chair,  when  that  restless  man 
emerged  from  the  companion  and  strolled  towards  me. 
I  did  not  stir — indeed,  it  was  too  late,  since  I  was 
caught.  I  could  only  brazen  it  out.  At  first  I  feared 
his  rage   would   choke   him,   for  he    gasped  as  if  the 


294  THE  LOO    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

flow  of  eloquence  was  literally  strangling  him  in  its 
frantic  efforts  to  find  a  vent.  Suddenly  be  made  two 
steps  toward  me,  gurgling  as  he  did  so,  "  Git  off 
my  poop  or  I'll  kick  ye  down  the  steps!"  I  sprang 
lightly  out  of  my  seat  and  stood  on  the  defensive, 
saj'ing  nothing,  but  backing  cautiously  to  the  ladder, 
which  I  descended  with  my  face  towards  him.  I  heard 
no  more  of  him  afterwards,  for  my  watch  was  soon 
over,  and  my  relief,  one  of  the  apprentices,  came 
on  watch  at  once.  Next  day  there  was  a  regular 
inquiry  into  the  vexed  anchor-watch  question ;  and, 
after  much  heated  discussion,  it  was  arranged  that 
we  should  resume  work  one  hour  later  each  morning 
and  keep  regular  watch  one  hour  each  through  the 
night.  As  soon  as  this  was  settled  our  worthy  chief 
departed  on  shore  again  ;  and  there,  to  our  great  relief, 
he  remained. 


(     295     ) 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

PROCEEDINGS   AT    RANGOON. 

Freed  from  the  annoyance  of  the  captain's  presence, 
we  were  by  no  means  an  unhappy  crowd.  Lying  in 
such  a  crowded  anchorage  there  was  plenty  of  sight- 
seeing, and  the  coming  and  going  of  vessels  was  in- 
cessant, owing  to  the  demand  for  rice  to  feed  the 
famishing  millions  on  the  other  side  of  the  Bay  of 
Bengal.  Besides  that,  we  youngsters  often  got  a  run 
ashore  when  the  mate  or  second  mate  wanted  to  go  up 
town,  which  was  pretty  frequent,  as  there  was  no 
restraint  upon  them.  To  while  away  the  time  of 
waiting  on  the  pier  for  them  we  used  to  have  great  fun 
with  the  boatmen,  who  squatted  there  sucking  their 
eternal  hubble-bubbles  and  chattering  continually. 
Many  a  queer  yarn,  in  queerer  gibberish,  did  I  hear 
from  those  good-natured  fellows,  only  understanding 
about  one  word  in  ten  that  they  said,  and  averaging 
the  rest ;  so  that  I  have  no  doubt  that  a  comparison 
between  my  idea  of  a  story  and  the  story  itself  must 
have  been  exceedingly  funny.  But  one  day,  when  sur- 
rounded by  a  knot  of  Hindus,  I  suddenly  remembered 
that  when  I  was  quite  a  child  I  had  read  in  Chainhers's 
MisceUaiiij  a  number  of   stories  of  Hindu  mytholog}'. 


296  THE  LOO    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

all  of  which  were  as  fresh  in  my  memory  as  the 
alphabet.  Accordingly  I  commenced  to  repeat  the 
"Avatar  of  the  Fish"  in  such  broken  English,  and 
occasional  native  words,  as  I  thought  would  best  convey 
my  meaning.  The  effect  was  wonderful.  Usually 
undemonstrative,  they  seemed  fairly  startled  out  of  all 
their  reserve,  and  over  the  ring  of  eager  black  faces 
wave  after  wave  of  conflicting  expressions  chased  one 
another,  while  broken  ejaculations  burst  irrepressibly 
from  their  parted  lips.  As  the  well-known  names  of 
Eama,  Vishnu,  Siva,  Ganesh  and  Co.  rolled  trippingly 
off  my  tongue,  their  delight  knew  no  bounds  ;  and  when 
at  last  I  halted  for  lack  of  breath,  they  were  ready  to 
give  me  anything  they  possessed.  Thenceforward  I 
was  a  prime  favourite  among  them.  Well  for  me  that 
it  was  so,  for  very  shortly  afterwards  an  event  happened 
that  nearly  brought  my  career  to  a  premature  close. 
I  had  been  shaking  hands  with  them  all  round, 
and  boy-like,  had  been  showing  off  my  strength  by 
squeezing  their  slender  delicate  hands  in  mine,  extorting 
from  them  all  sorts  of  queer  grimaces  and  expressions 
of  wonder  at  my  strength  of  wrist.  Presently  a  Mussul- 
man joined  the  group.  He  had  just  come  up  from  the 
water,  where  he  had  been  bathing,  after  having  his  jdoII 
shaven.  Clad  only  in  a  waist-cloth,  his  torso  was  fully 
revealed,  its  splendid  proportions  showing  a  develop- 
ment that  many  a  pugilist  would  have  envied.  Our 
proceedings  did  not  appear  to  please  him,  for  he  wore  a 
most  diabolical  scowl,  which,  as  he  was  anything  but 
handsome,  gave  me  a  serious  disrelish  for  his  company. 
But  suddenly,  as  if  by  an  uncontrollable  impulse,  he 
thrust  out  his  hand  to  me,  making  signs  for  me  to  try 


PROCEEDINGS   AT  RANGOON.  297 

my  strength  on  him.  I  would  have  refused,  but  pride 
forbade ;  so  I  placed  my  hand  in  his  and  waited  for  his 
grip,  determined  to  show  no  sign  even  if  the  blood 
should  spurt  from  my  finger-tips.  We  stood  facing  one 
another  thus  for  almost  a  minute,  when,  without 
warning,  he  lifted  my  arm  high,  and  at  the  same  time 
thrust  me  backwards  towards  the  edge  of  the  wharf, 
which  was  thirty  feet  above  the  mud  (the  tide  being 
out)  and  totally  unprotected.  Another  second  and  I 
should  have  been  over,  when  the  whole  crowd  of  boat- 
men rushed  at  him,  and,  dragging  him  off  me,  forced 
him  to  retreat  up  the  wharf  shorewards.  Mad  with 
rage  I  seized  a  log  of  wood  and  rushed  after  hini ;  but 
the  remainder  of  my  friends  surrounded  me,  and 
implored  me  not  to  pursue  him,  as  I  should  certainly 
be  killed.  And,  indeed,  as  soon  as  I  cooled  down  some- 
what, the  justice  of  their  contention  was  evident,  for  in 
those  tortuous  alleys  one  might  be  attacked  from  a 
dozen  differing  directions  at  once,  and  never  see  the 
aggressor.  Therefore  I  felt  glad  that  I  had  not  been 
allowed  to  have  the  way  my  mad  folly  would  have  led 
me,  and  thankfully  meditated  upon  my  undoubtedly 
narrow  escape.  The  affair  made  a  deep  impression 
upon  me,  for  it  was  the  only  time  in  all  my  experience 
that  I  was  ever  attacked  abroad. 

The  loading  of  our  vessel  proceeded  very  slowly, 
which  was  not  to  be  wondered  at,  since  all  the  energies 
of  the  shipping  people  seemed  to  be  absorbed  by  the 
demands  of  the  big  steamships  that  were  incessantly 
carrying  rice  to  Calcutta  because  of  the  famine.  But, 
slow  as  it  was,  it  gradually  approached  completion,  and 
the  important  question  began  to  occupy  all  our  minds  : 


298  TEE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

Were  we  going  to  get  any  liberty  or  money  ?  Since  the 
night  of  the  skipper's  suri)rise-visit,  we  had  only  seen 
him  once,  and  that  was  when  he  retm'ned  on  shore  the 
next  morning.  The  officers  were  warily  approached 
upon  the  subject,  but  they  knew  no  more  than  we  did 
of  the  skipper's  movements  or  intentions.  At  last,  after 
a  prolonged  council  of  war,  it  was  decided  to  send  him 
a  letter,  signed  by  one  of  the  A.B.'s  on  behalf  of  the 
rest.  But  then  the  difficulty  arose ;  who  was  to  write 
the  important  document  ?  Not  one  of  the  men  was 
capable  of  doing  so — in  fact,  I  was  the  letter- writer  in 
ordinary  for  all  hands.  So  I  was  approached  as  to  my 
willingness  to  do  what  was  required.  I  readily  con- 
sented, only  stipulating  that  I  should  be  held  blameless 
in  the  event  of  trouble  ensuing.  "Oh,  of  course,"  said 
they  all,  "  we  wouldn't  let  you  take  the  blame."  Well, 
I  wrote  the  letter,  and,  although  I  was  no  hand  atj 
composition,  I  remember  that  it  was  exceedingly  terse! 
and  to  the  point.  With  a  good  deal  of  pride  I  read  it 
to  the  assembled  conclave,  and  all  agreed  that  it  was  a| 
model  of  what  such  a  letter  ought  to  be.  But  when  it 
came  to  signing  the  document,  I  was  disgusted  to  fine 
that  each  man  was  anxious  that  some  other  fello'v 
should  have  the  honour.  All  professed  readiness  to' 
take  the  responsibility,  but  when  it  came  to  putting 
their  names  to  paper  they  hung  back.  At  last,  to  my 
secret  amusement,  the  old  Dutchman,  Hansen,  said, 
"  Oh,  all  righd,  put  my  name  to  id;  I  tondt  care  for  te 
oldt  man  nodt  a  liddle  pidt."  It  struck  me  at  once 
that  the  old  fellow  had  no  idea  of  the  vigour  of  the 
language  used,  but  that  was  none  of  my  affair.  So 
"Hans  Hansen"  was  appended  to  the  letter;  it  was 


PROOEEDINGS   AT  RANGOON.  299 

enclosed  in  an  envelope,  and  sent  per  the  ''  dubash  "  to 

the  ''British   Burmah  Bar,"  where  the  old  man  was 

living.     In  a  perfect  fever  of  excitement  I  awaited  the 

result.     It  was  not  long  delayed.     Shortly  after  dinner 

the  skipper  came  on  board  in  a  perfect  fury,  and,  before 

he  had  got  his  foot  over  the  rail,  yelled  for  Hansen. 

The  poor  old   Dutchman   paddled   aft,  shaking  like  a 

feather-vane  in  a  gale  of  wind,   and,  when  he  got  to 

where  the  old  man  was   standing,  he  looked  as  if  his 

legs  would  double  up  under  him.     Good  heavens  !  how 

the  skipper  did  rave.     Seeing  who  he  had  to  deal  with 

he  just  spread  himself,  so  to  speak,  and,  much  to  his 

satisfaction,    succeeded    in   scaring    Hansen   nearly   to 

death.      Suddenly    my    name   was    called,   and,    in   a 

moment,  I  recognized   that   I  had   been   given  away. 

Well,  I  had  to  face  the  music ;  so  I  determined  to  put 

the  best  face   I   could   upon  the  matter,    and,  in  any 

case,  to  show  no  cowardice.     I  strolled  quietly  aft,  and 

received  the   old   sinner's   broadside   with   a   perfectly 

unmoved  front.    He  threatened  me  with  prison — almost 

hanging — for  the  unparalleled  crime  I  had  committed ; 

but  I  smiled  sweetly,  and,  as  soon  as  I  could  get  in  a 

word,  I  told  him  he  couldn't  do  anything  to  me  at  all. 

Then  he  changed  his  tactics,  and  tried  to  wheedle  me 

into  saying  that  the  men  had  compelled  me  to  write, 

and  begged  me  to  tell  him  whose  composition  it  was. 

Having  by  this  time  grown  bolder,  I  told  him  that  I 

was  the  author,  and  that  I  felt  proud  of  it.     This  so 

enraged  him  that  he  ran  at  me  foaming  and  screaming 

to  me  to  get  out  of  his  cabin.     But,   even   then,  his 

prudence  did  not  desert  him,  for  he  never  ventured  to 

strike    me,    and    both   the    officers    remained    strictly 


300  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

neutral.  And,  after  all,  the  desired  end  was  attained 
for  every  one  except  myself,  for  the  next  day  liberty  was 
announced,  with  cash  to  the  extent  of  twenty  rupees 
each.  But  from  this  I  was  to  be  excluded.  However, 
after  the  other  fellows  had  gone,  my  fellow  ordinary 
seaman  and  I  were  told  by  the  mate  that  we  might  go 
too,  if  we  chose,  but  that  he  had  no  money  to  give  us. 
We  had  a  couple  of  rupees  between  us,  enough  to  get 
ourselves  something  to  eat,  so  we  gladly  availed  our- 
selves of  his  permission  and  were  soon  ashore. 

From  the  first  hour  of  our  arrival  I  had  looked  with 
longing  eyes  upon  the  mighty  mass  of  the  Golden 
Pagoda,  and  never  ceased  hoping  that  I  might  be  able 
to  see  it  near  at  hand ;  and  now  I  determined  to  lose  no 
time  in  realizing  my  desires.  Bill  wanted  to  go  down 
town,  and  hunt  up  some  of  our  shipmates  for  the 
purpose  of  borrowing  a  little  from  them ;  but  I  dis- 
suaded him,  and,  after  a  bottle  of  beer  each,  and  the 
purchase  of  a  fistful  of  cigars  for  the  equivalent  of 
twopence,  we  trudged  ofi".  There  was  no  mistaking  the 
way,  for  the  road  was  broad  and  the  pagoda  itself  was 
our  guide  ;  but  I  have  ever  since  rejoiced  that  I  did  not 
know  how  far  it  was,  or  I  certainly  should  never  have 
visited  it.  The  fierce  sun  glared  down  upon  the  white 
dusty  road  so  that  it  was  like  walking  in  an  oven, 
gharries  and  ekkas  rolled  tantalizingly  by,  and  our 
throats  became  like  leather.  But  we  persevered,  and 
after  I  am  afraid  to  say  how  long,  we  came  at  last  to 
the  imposing  avenue  of  colossal  black  marble  monsters 
leading  to  the  first  plateau.  Immensely  broad  flights 
of  steps  led  up  to  an  enormous  platform,  around  which 
we    roamed,   bewildered    by   the    wonderful    array    of 


PROCEEDINGS  AT  RANGOON.  301 

imcoutb  monsters  grouped  everywliero.  '  Then  up  more 
steps  on  to  another  plateau  from  whence  sprang  the 
central   mass,  a  sort  of  pyramid  without  angles,   and 
rising  in  broad  steps  of  masonry  which,  flat  at  first, 
gradually  sloped  upward  until  they  were   lost   in  the 
glittering  cone  of  the  towering  summit.      Around  the 
base   of  this  vast   structure  were    small   temples   like 
porticoes  leading  to  the  interior  of  the  main  building  ; 
but  far  as  we  could  see,  each  of  them  was  self-containe'c{ 
and  no  entrance  to  the  central  edifice  was  visible.     I 
made  many  inquiries  whether  that  great  pyramid  was 
sohd,  or  contained  chambers  of  any  sort ;  but  the  answers 
I  got  were  so  conflicting  that  I  could  come  to  no  con- 
clusion  at   all.      The   strangest   feature   of  the  whole 
wonderful  place  was  the  number  of  elaborately  decorated 
bells  of  all  sizes  which  hung  about,  some  of  them  on 
the  most  flimsy  erections.     They  emitted,  when  struck, 
tones  of  the  most   silvery  sweetness,   such   as  I  have 
never   heard   from   bells    (except    specimens   from   the 
same   country)    before    or    since.      And    presently   we 
came   upon   one   in  a  secluded  corner   that   must  be, 
I  should  think,  one  of  the  largest  bells  in  the  world, 
although  I  have  never  seen  any  mention  of  it  in  books 
or  articles  where  big  bells  are  spoken  of.     It  was  hang- 
mg  under  a  sort  of  conical   shed,  suspended   from   a 
gallows  built  of  huge  baulks  of  teak,  but  its  lip  was 
only  about   eighteen   inches   off  the   ground.     It  was 
covered   with   inscriptions— in   Burmese,    I   suppose- 
but  had  no  other  enrichment.     Curious  to  hear  its  tone, 
I  struck  it  with  a  large  deer-horn,  of  which  there  were 
many  lying  about ;  but  there  was  no  response.     Harder 
and  harder  I  struck,  until  at  last  Bill  hove  a  massive 


o02  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

fragment  of  stone  against  it  with  all  his  force  ;  but  still 
not  a  sound  could  be  heard — no,  not  so  much  as  an  iron 
wall  would  have  given  back.      Baffled  in  sampling  its 
tone,  we  tried  to  measure  it  roughly,  and  found  that 
with  outstretched  arms  we  could  reach  round  it  in  four 
times.    This  would  make  its  circumference  about  twenty 
feet.     Then,  Ij'ing  flat  on  my  back,  I  tried  to  measure 
its   thickness   of  metal ;    but   my   arm   was   not   long 
enough — it  was   much  thicker  than  I  could  reach  in 
from  outside.     Its  height  I  should  estimate  at  twelve 
feet ;   but   that   is  very  rough,  since  we   had  no  pole. 
Altogether  a  grandfather  of  bells.     Gilding  was  going 
on  in  all  directions,  the  workmen  perched  upon  flimsy 
bamboo  scaffolding  in  all  sorts  of  precarious  positions ; 
and  I  remember  trying  to   calculate   how  much  gold 
it  must   take   to   keep   so   great   a  place  brilliant.     I 
did   not    then   know   that    the    gold-leaf  was    one   of 
the  principal  offerings  made  by  worshippers,  although, 
when  we   presently  entered   one   of  the   temples,  and 
witnessed  the  worship,  the  strangeness  of  the  proceed- 
ings  ought  to   have   enlightened   me.     Yellow-garbed, 
close-shaven  Phoongyees  were    squatting   all  over  the 
pavement    of    the    building,    apparently    absorbed    in 
reverent   adoration  of  the   row  of   idols  ranged   along 
the   inner  end  of  the  place.     Yet,  at  the  same  time, 
more  workmen  were  busily  engaged  in  gilding  the  idols 
themselves — one,  especially,  was  i)lastering  the  face  of 
the  central  figure  with  it,  until  it  shone  in  that  dim 
hall  like  a  setting  sun.     I  was  speechless  with  wonder 
at  what  seemed  such  a  strange  mixture  of  irreverence 
and   w^orship.     While   I   stood   silently  gazing   at   the 
strange  scene,   a  voice  near  me  said,  in  most  perfect 


1    SUPPOSE    YOr    don't    BKLIEVE    IX    THIS.    DO    YOU?" 


PROCEEDINGS   AT  RANGOON.  303 

high-bred  English,  "I  suppose  you  don't  believe  in 
this,  do  you?"  I  turned  sharply;  and  there  at  my 
elbow  stood  a  Chinaman,  simply  dressed  in  white  silk, 
with  purple  cap  and  shoes.  A  delightful  subtle  scent 
exhaled  from  his  robes,  and  a  gentle  smile  played  about 
his  calm,  intellectual  face.  In  fact,  "  gentleman  "  was 
writ  large  upon  him  ;  but  I  could  not  grasp  the  idea 
that  it  was  he  who  had  spoken.  As  soon  as  my 
bewilderment  had  passed  a  little,  I  said,  "  Was  it  you 
that  spoke  just  now  ?  "  He  nodded,  and  repeated  his 
question.  "Of  course  not,"  I  answered;  "neither  do 
you,  I  should  imagine  ?  "  ^Yith  the  slightest  possible 
shrug  of  his  shoulders,  he  said,  "  Why  not  ?  I  do  not 
claim  to  be  wiser  than  the  mj-riads  of  my  ancestors 
whose  faith  it  was.  What  sufficed  them  may  surely 
content  me."  "But,"  I  replied  eagerly,  "you  have 
evidently  studied  in  some  English-speaking  country, 
and  you  must  have  read  our  books.  Did  they  not  alter 
your  opinions  as  to  the  wisdom  of  your  ancestors  ?  " 
"  I  have  taken  my  B.A.  degree  at  Cambridge,"  said  he, 
"  and  I  am  fairly  conversant  with  Western  literatm-e ; 
but  upon  religious  topics  I  do  not  profess  any  opinions. 
The  subject  is  far  too  vast  for  me  to  attempt  to  take 
up,  since  it  would  necessarily  mean  the  exclusion  of 
all  others;  and  I  have  much  to  do.  Consequently  I 
accept  unquestioningly  that  form  of  religion  in  which 
I  was  born,  taking  the  line  of  least  resistance.  But  I 
must  bid  you  good  day,  hoping  you  will  enjoy  your 
visit."  And  before  I  could  say  another  word  he  was 
gone.  I  felt  very  small  and  ignorant  beside  this  exqui- 
site Oriental,  whose  gracious  manners  and  beautiful  voice 
have  haunted  me  ever  since,  and,  although  I  am  fully 


30-1  TUE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

conscious  hew  poor  a  figure  I  must  have  cut  beside  so 
gifted  and  highly  educated  a  man,  I  have  never  ceased 
to  regret  that  I  did  not  have  a  longer  enjoyment  of 
his  pleasant  company.  While  I  still  stood  musing  over 
this  strange  encounter,  a  heavy  hand  was  laid  upon 
my  shoulder,  and,  turning  sharply  round,  I  was  con- 
fronted by  our  second  mate,  whose  ill-fitting  clothes, 
gross,  animalized  face  and  boisterous  behaviour,  formed 
a  complete  contrast  to  the  dainty  gentleman  who  had 
just  quitted  my  side.  "Hullo  !  "  he  said  with  a  sneer, 
"  what  you  doin'  ere,  hay?  Goin'  ter  turn  Me'omme- 
dun?"  I  made  some  jesting  reply,  looking  anxiously 
meanwhile  at  his  cigar,  and  then  at  the  silent  row  of 
priests,  in  grave  doubt  as  to  how  they  might  take  his 
noisy  behaviour  in  their  sacred  building.  But  they 
were  apparently  used  to  it,  for  they  took  not  the 
slightest  notice.  "Got  'ny  money?"  he  queried  with 
a  grin,  knowing  pretty  well  how  unlikely  it  was.  Upon 
my  telling  him  how  poorly  we  were  off,  he  kindly  gave 
me  two  rupees  and  then  went  on  his  way. 

As  I  had  by  this  time  had  quite  enough  of  sight- 
seeing, besides  being  hungry  and  thirsty,  I  started 
to  look  for  my  chum ;  and,  after  some  search,  found 
him  sitting  in  a  shady  angle  of  the  great  flight  of 
steps,  intently  watching  the  impassive  figure  of  one 
of  a  long  row  of  mendicants  that  lined  the  side  of 
the  way  up  to  the  temple.  He  was  quite  happy, 
and  very  much  interested  in  the  queer  offerings  that 
he  had  seen  made  to  the  beggar  whom  he  had  been 
studying.  Shreds  of  tobacco,  a  few  grains  of  rice,  and 
other  trifles  unfamiliar  to  us,  but  of  the  tiniest  possible 
value,  were  being  dropped  into  his  basket  by  the  native 


PROCEEDINGS  AT  RANGOON.  305 

passers-by,   in    response    to    the    mellow    note    which 
resounded  from  a  triangular  piece  of  metal  which  he 
held  suspended  from  a  stick,  and  occasionally  tapped 
with  a  bone.     "  Goin'  ter   give  him  anythin'    Bill  ^  " 
I  asked.     -'Oo?     Me?     Wot  djer  tek  me  for?     Lazy 
ole  swine !     I  bet  'ees  got  a  dam  sight  more  brass  'n 
you  er  me  '11  ever  'ave.     No  bloomin'  fear!  "     It  may 
have  been  fancy,  but  certainly  I  thought  I  saw  a  gleam 
in  that   beggar's  filmy  eye  as  if  Bill's  contemptuous 
words  were  quite  understood  by  him.     "  Well,"  I  said 
"  I'm  goin'  ter  give  'im  a  tanner  fer  luck."  '  And,  as 
I  spoke,  I  fished  out  four  annas  and  dropped  the  little 
piece  of  silver  into  his  cup.      I   turned  to  go  imme- 
diately ;  but  he  stretched  forth  a  skinny  arm,  offering 
me  a  withered,  blood-red  flower,  and  murmuring  some 
(to   me)   utterly   unintelligible   words.     Now,    I   would 
not  willingly  hurt  any  one's  feelings  gratuitously;    so 
I   smiled    cheerfully   back,   accepted    his    flower,   and 
saying,  ''Bote  accha;  Salaam,  ole   stockfn',"  skipped 
off  down  the  steps,  followed  grumblingly  by  Bill.     As 
we   went,  I  told  him  of  the  second  mate's  gift.     He 
immediately  suggested  taking  a  gharry  back.     I  was 
in   no   wise   loth   to    agree,   for    the  remembrance   of 
our  morning's  trudge  was  anything  but  pleasant.     But, 
when  we  arrived  at  the  place  where  the  vehicles  were 
grouped,  those  infernal  gharry-wallahs  were  all  so  inde- 
pendent that  they  wouldn't  bate  a  pice  of  three  rupees 
for  the  trip.     As  this  was  quite  out  of  the  question,  we 
took   the   road   again   with   heavy  hearts   and   aching 
feet :  Bill  cursing,  in  choicest  Bermondsey,  niggers  in 
general  and  gharry-wallahs  in  particular.     For  about 
half  a  mile  we  trudged  doggedly  along,  when,  suddenly 


X 


306  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

turning  a  slight  bend  in  the  road,  we  sighted  a  gharry 
ambling  along  with  one  door  open.  A  bright  thought 
seized  me,  and,  whispering  to  Bill  my  idea,  we  hurried 
noiselessly  after  the  slowly-moving  carriage.  As  soon 
as  we  got  near  enough,  we  saw  that  the  driver  was 
soundly  asleep  upon  his  box,  the  reins  dangling  loosely 
from  his  fingers,  and  the  old  horse  plodding  along 
at  his  own  sweet  will.  Gently  we  popped  into  the 
crazy  old  ambulance,  quietly  closed  the  door,  and 
lounged  back  like  two  plutocrats.  I  don't  think  I 
ever  enjoyed  a  ride  more,  for,  slowly  as  we  went, 
we  arrived  at  the  gharry-stand  in  Phayre  Street  all 
too  soon  to  suit  me.  Before  the  gharry  stopped  we 
opened  the  door,  and,  quietly  as  we  had  entered,  were 
stepping  out,  when  that  unlucky  Bill  caught  his  foot 
in  the  step,  and,  catching  at  the  door  to  save  himself, 
gave  the  whole  concern  a  heavy  lurch.  This  effectually 
roused  the  driver,  who  jumped  down  off  his  box  and 
demanded  his  fare.  Bill  was  furious  (at  being  caught, 
I  suppose),  and  was  proposing  to  slay  and  eat  the 
fellow,  whose  yells  speedily  brought  all  his  chums 
round.  As  I  was  getting  nervous  I  offered  him  eight 
annas,  at  the  same  time  trying  to  pacify  my  burly 
shipmate,  who  was  carrying  on  like  a  madman. 
Fortunately  a  white  policeman  came  along,  before 
whose  dignified  approach  all  the  clustering  natives 
stood  respectfully  back.  To  him  I  told  the  exact 
facts  of  the  story.  "Without  a  word  he  took  the  eight 
annas  from  me,  gave  it  to  the  hackman,  and  uttered 
the  single  word  "  Jao."  The  effect  was  magical.  The 
crowd  melted  away,  and  we  were  at  liberty  to  resume 
our  journey.     The  rest  of  the  day  passed  uneventfully 


I 


PROCEEDINO'S  AT  BANGOON.  307 

enough.  We  had  a  splendid  dinner  in  one  of  the 
bazaar  dining-rooms  at  a  rupee  each,  washed  it  down 
with  a  bottle  of  Bass,  and,  after  sundry  cigars,  strolled 
leisurely  down  the  pier,  and  sat  there  enjoying  the 
coolness  of  the  evening,  until,  feeling  tired  of  shore, 
we  hailed  the  ship,  and  were  fetched  on  board  by 
the  two  apprentices.  A  quiet  night's  rest  succeeded  ; 
but  the  morning  brought  diversions.  The  ex-policeman 
came  on  board  quietly  enough,  as  befitted  a  man 
accustomed  to  discipline ;  but  the  rest,  with  the 
exception  of  old  Hansen,  who  had  returned  early  on 
the  previous  day,  were  in  a  parlous  state.  Two  did 
not  return ;  and,  later,  news  came  that  they  were 
safely  in  chowkey,  having  covered  themselves  with 
glory  by  routing  a  whole  brigade  of  native  police  who 
tried  to  arrest  them,  and  caused  grievous  bodily  harm 
to  several  white  constables  who  had  finally  carried 
them  ofi".  One  of  them  was  the  jolly  Suffolker,  who 
had  thus  falsified  all  my  previous  estimates  of  his 
amiability;  the  other  was  Mick,  the  long  Irishman, 
at  whose  outburst  nobody  was  surprised.  It  is  hardly 
necessary,  perhaps,  to  say  that  no  work  was  done 
that  day,  except  a  little  clearing  up  decks,  for  which 
of  course  we  boys  were  available.  But,  towards 
evening,  the  repentant  revellers  began  to  realize  the 
extent  of  their  folly,  and  to  appear,  in  some  measure, 
ashamed  of  themselves.  Just  at  sunset  a  police-boat 
arrived  bringing  Mick,  a  deplorable  object,  his  clothes 
hanging  from  him  in  festoons,  and  his  flesh  caked 
up  with  dried  filth  and  blood.  He  was  certainly  much 
the  worse  for  wear,  but  filled  with  an  unholy  delight 
at  the  thought  of  the  glorious  time  he   had  enjoyed. 


308  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

It  appeared,  however,  that  the  behaviour  of  Charley 
the  Suffolker  had  been  so  outrageous,  and  his  refusal 
to  return  to  his  ship  so  decided,  that  the  authorities — 
lenient,  as  they  undoubtedly  were,  to  sailors — were 
compelled  to  give  him  a  month's  hard  labour.  Upon 
hearing  his  sentence  he  lifted  up  his  voice  and  shouted, 
"Hooray!  "  to  the  great  annoyance  of  the  magistrate, 
who  had  him  incontinently  man-handled  off  to  the 
cells. 


(     309     ) 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

HOMEWARD-BOUND    IN    DIFFICULTIES. 

And  now — our  cargo  being  all  on  board,  sails  bent,  and 
hatches  battened  down — we  began  to  look  forward  to 
the  homeward  passage.  But  our  anticipations  were  in 
no  sense  pleasurable,  for,  although  we  had  certainly 
lived  well  while  in  port,  we  had  as  yet  received  no 
stores  for  sea  use,  and  we  were  in  grievous  doubt  as 
to  the  intentions  of  our  commander  in  this  respect. 
At  last,  when  we  were  fully  prepared  to  refuse  to 
proceed  unless  we  saw  some  reasonable  prospect  of 
being  fed  while  at  sea,  a  boat-load  of  stores  came  off, 
accompanied  by  a  new  recruit  to  take  the  place  of 
Charley,  who  was  busy  mat-making  in  Eangoon  gaol. 
He  was  an  old  acquaintance  of  mine,  having  been  cook 
of  a  barque  called  the  Gemshok,  which  lay  at  Auckland 
during  one  of  my  visits — a  fair-haired,  happy-go-lucky 
Englishman ;  but  a  very  poor  sailor,  however  able  he 
might  have  been  as  a  cook.  He  had  not  been  half 
an  hour  on  board  before  he  had  joined  us  in  solemn 
condemnation  of  the  scanty  stock  of  provisions  he 
had  accompanied  on  board,  declaring  that  we  should 
all  be  starved  before  we  got  home,  unless  we  made  a 


310  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

wonderfully  rapid  jDassage.  But,  with  the  carelessness 
of  sailors,  we  allowed  our  opportunity  of  protesting  to 
slip  by ;  and,  next  morning,  we  unmoored  and  dropped 
down  to  Monkey  Point,  ready  to  proceed  down  the 
river.  For  some  unexplained  reason  we  lay  here  all 
day  doing  nothing,  although  everything  was  as  favour- 
able as  it  could  well  be  for  our  departure.  Towards 
evening,  when  all  hands  were  sitting  on  the  top-gallant 
forecastle,  enjoying  the  cool  and  smoking  the  universal 
cheroot  of  Burmah,  the  devil  entered  into  Mick,  and 
induced  him  to  sneak  down  into  the  forecastle  and 
search  for  something  to  drink.  He  succeeded  in 
discovering  a  bottle  of  square  gin — the  cayenne  and 
turpentine  brand  at  twelve  annas  a  bottle — in  Hansen's 
chest,  which,  as  is  customary  in  all  ship's  fo'lk'sles,  was 
left  unlocked.  Knocking  the  neck  of  it  off  immediately, 
he  poured  the  contents  into  a  hookpot,  and,  at  one 
draught,  swallowed  about  a  pint  of  the  horrible  stuff. 
Another  drink  nearly  finished  it ;  and  in  a  few  minutes 
he  returned  to  our  midst,  not  drunk,  but  a  raving 
lunatic.  For  a  little  while  we  were  highly  amused 
at  his  antics;  but  ^Dresently,  yelling,  ''Well,  so  long 
all ! "  he  rushed  to  the  rail  with  the  evident  intention 
of  flinging  himself  overboard.  Bill — the  other  ordinary 
seaman — and  I  rushed  at  him,  dragged  him  back, 
and,  after  a  severe  struggle,  got  him  to  lie  down. 
Then  commenced  such  a  night  of  labour  as  I  have 
never  experienced  before  or  since.  Every  device  that 
his  mad  cunning  could  suggest  did  he  try  in  order 
to  take  his  own  life.  We  got  not  a  moment's  rest. 
Sometimes  he  would  feign  to  be  asleep ;  but,  the 
moment   we   were   off   our    guard,   he   would   be    at   it 


HOMEWARD-BOUND   IN  DIFFICULTIES.         311 

again,  startling  us  almost  out  of  our  wits,  and  giving 
us  a  fearful  struggle  before  we  could  get  him  quieted 
again.  Xone  of  the  others  would  relieve  us,  or  lend 
us  a  hand — nay,  they  cursed  us  for  a  pair  of  idiots 
that  we  did  not  let  him  go,  with  a  wannion  on  him. 
How  could  we?  Although  we  bitterly  resented  the 
utterly  uncalled-for  toil,  we  dared  not  relax  our 
vigilance :  both  of  us  feeling  that,  if  we  did,  his  blood 
would  be  upon  our  heads.  And,  to  add  to  our  miseries, 
a  land-breeze  brought  off  mosquitoes  and  sandflies 
in  mjTiads,  so  that,  in  our  exposed  condition,  we 
were  stung  almost  beyond  bearing.  At  last,  just  as 
the  first  streak  of  dawn  appeared  over  the  jungle,  he 
dropped  off  to  sleep  in  reality.  Before  we  had  time 
to  snatch  the  briefest  doze  came  the  strident  voice 
of  the  mate,  "  Man  the  windlass ! "  Of  course  Mick 
was  excused — he  was  ill;  but  we,  poor  wretches,  who 
had  been  engaged  in  a  life-and-death  struggle  with 
him  the  whole  night  through,  were  compelled  to  work 
as  if  we  had  enjoyed  our  lawful  night's  rest.  And 
we  were  so  weary !  Hardly  able  to  crawl  about  from 
our  tremendous  exertions,  and  continually  blackguarded 
for  our  lack  of  smartness,  it  was  with  no  kindly  feelings 
towards  Mick  that  we  dragged  ourselves  forecastlewards 
at  breakfast-time,  when,  the  ship  being  under  way 
and  pointed  down  the  river,  we  had  a  short  spell  of 
leisure.  Of  course  he  sat  up  and  looked  for  his 
breakfast,  confound  him !  As  I  handed  him  his  coffee, 
I  said,  "  A  pretty  fine  dance  you  led  Bill  and  me 
last  night,  Mick!"  ''Fhwat  the  divil  d'yez  mane?" 
growled  he.  I  told  him  as  frankly  as  I  could;  and, 
as  soon  as  I  had  done,  he  said,  "  Well,  I  alwuz  tought 


312  TEE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

yez  wiir  a  pair  ov fules,  an'  now  oim  well 

sure  ov  ut.  Fhwy'nt  yez  let  me  go,  dam  yer  dhirty 
sowis  t'  bell  ? "  I  answered  him  never  a  word ;  but 
I  swore  solemnly  to  myself  tbat,  come  wbat  might, 
I  would  never  again  move  one  inch  to  protect  a  drunken 
man  from  the  consequences  of  his  own  act,  and  I 
have  devoutly  kept  that  oath. 

Our  progress  down  the  river  was  but  little  faster 
than  the  flow  of  the  tide,  for  there  was  not  sufficient 
breeze  to  keep  the  sails  full,  and  we  all  noticed  that 
the  old  man  seemed  to  be  in  an  unusual  state  of 
nervous  agitation.  A  tiny  pillar  of  smoke  astern 
seemed  to  attract  most  of  his  attention ;  so  palpably, 
indeed,  did  he  watch  it,  that  we  began  to  whisper 
among  ourselves  that  he  had  been  paying  somebody 
with  the  "fore-topsail  sheet"  again.  And  the  event 
proved  that  we  were  right  in  our  surmise,  for  before 
long  a  steam-launch  overtook  us,  and  a  peremptory 
order  was  given  from  on  board  of  her  for  us  to  lay 
the  foreyard  aback.  Our  pilot  immediately  complied, 
the  launch  sheered  alongside,  and  a  red-uniformed 
official  climbed  on  board.  His  first  act  was  to  present 
the  skipper  with  a  piece  of  paper.  But  that  worthy 
had  no  need  to  read  it ;  he  knew  well  enough  what  it 
contained.  Then  a  white  man,  very  well  dressed,  came 
on  board,  and  began  slanging  the  miserable  captain  in 
rare  stjde.  He  had  been  at  his  old  games  again : 
eating  and  drinking — especially  drinking — at  somebody 
else's  expense  during  the  whole  of  our  stay  in  port, 
and  then  trying  to  get  away  without  paying  his  bill. 
This  time,  however,  matters  looked  serious  for  him, 
for  he  had  very  little  money,  and  his  bill  amounted 


HOMEWARD-BOUND   IN  DIFFICULTIES.         313 

to  one  hundred  and  fifty  rupees.  There  was  a  tre- 
mendous amount  of  haggling  done  before  the  hotel- 
keeper  would  accept  a  compromise ;  but  at  last,  a 
number  of  bolts  of  new  canvas  and  several  coils  of 
rope  were  transferred  to  the  launch,  and  with  these, 
I  have  no  doubt,  the  creditor  was  very  well  paid  indeed. 
But  what  excuse  the  skipper  would  hatch  up  to  satisfy 
his  owners  about  those  missing  stores  we  could  none 
of  us  imagine.  Undoubtedly  he  placed  himself  com- 
pletely in  the  power  of  every  one  on  board  by  his 
mean  and  dishonest  behaviour.  As  if  we  had  only 
been  waiting  for  his  discomfiture,  no  sooner  had  the 
launch  left  us  than  we  squared  away  to  a  spanking 
breeze,  which  took  us  well  clear  of  the  land  before 
nightfall,  fairly  started  on  our  long  homeward  passage. 
And  now  we  all  pursued  a  definite  course  of  action. 
It  was  unanimously  agreed  that  the  skipper  had  fairly 
j)ut  himself  out  of  court,  and  that  to  him  no  respect 
whatever  was  due.  The  ofiicers,  on  the  other  hand, 
who  did  their  part  w^ell  under  these  trying  circum- 
stances, were  treated  by  every  one  with  that  deference 
which  was  their  right,  and  consequently  the  work  of  the 
ship  went  on  in  seamanlike  fashion.  We  were  fortunate, 
too,  in  getting  out  of  the  Bay  of  Bengal  before  the 
setting  in  of  the  south-west  monsoon,  when  the  weather 
is  unspeakably  vile.  Steaming  weather,  variable  winds, 
and  frequent  deluges  of  rain  make  life  at  sea  in  the 
Bay  then  a  burden  almost  too  grievous  to  be  borne. 
The  ropes  swell  so  much  that  they  can  hardly  be  hauled 
through  the  blocks  without  any  weight  attached  to 
them,  and  the  sails  become  like  boards  for  stiffness. 
But  we  had  a  steady  northerly  wind,  nights  of  perfect 


314  THE  LOO    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

beauty,  and  days  of  unclouded  sunshine ;  so  that  but 
for  the  harassmg  want  of  good  food,  which  attacked  us 
as  soon  as  we  were  clear  of  the  laud,  our  lot  was  as 
pleasant  as  any  sailor  can  ever  expect.  Very  little 
work  of  any  kind  was  done  beyond  the  necessary  hand- 
ling of  the  sails,  for  no  doubt  the  officers  felt  that  it 
would  be  unwise  to  attempt  too  much  under  the  strained 
condition  of  things. 

And  now  in  the  long  night-watches,  when  over  a 
quiet  sea,  flooded  with  moonlight,  the  sturdy  old  vessel 
glided  silent  as  a  disembodied  spirit,  not  a  flap  of  a 
sail  or  creak  of  a  rope  breaking  the  solemn  stillness, 
I  spent  many,  many  hours  alone  communing  with  my 
own  soul.  The  old  boy-life  was  fast  slipping  away  from 
me,  and  the  ugly  sordidness  of  much  that  I  had  endured 
for  the  past  seven  years  was  already  beginning  to  be 
mellowed  by  the  softening  haze  of  time.  I  felt  deep, 
hungry  longings  for  better  things — often  flushing  hotly 
in  the  darkness  as  I  remembered  how  I  had  wasted  my 
opportunities  in  Australia,  and  again  thinking  wearily 
how  utterly  friendless  and  alone  I  was  in  the  world. 
I  felt  that  if  I  only  had  some  one  to  work  for,  some  one 
to  whom  my  well-being  was  a  matter  in  which  they 
took  a  lively  interest,  that  I  was  capable  even  now — in 
spite  of  my  ignorance — of  doing  something  in  the  world  ; 
and  I  built  whole  cities  full  of  castles  in  the  air  upon 
the  most  filmy  foundations.  And  then  all  my  hopes 
and  dreams  would  die  in  thickest  darkness  of  despair. 
What  gleam  of  bright  prospect  could  there  be  for  me,  a 
mere  bit  of  driftweed  upon  the  awful  ocean  of  humanity, 
with  no  destination,  except  that  which  I  shared  with 
all  mankind  ?     So  I  would  lay  musing,  looking  upward 


HOMEWARD- BOUND    IN  DIFFICULTIES.         315 

into  the  infinite  blue  overhead  where  the  never-ceasing 
glory  of  the  stars  kept  me  most  comfortable  company. 
These  nights  were  a  grand  counterpoise  to  the  petty 
discomforts  and  miseries  of  the  day,  when  the  dis- 
content of  their  lot  made  the  men  of  my  watch  so 
humpy  and  disagreeable  that  I  could  hardly  keep  out 
of  hot  water  with  them.  I  had  no  books  but  a  Bible, 
for  which  I  am  now  most  grateful,  because  I  read  that 
grand  old  book — a  literature  in  itself — through  and 
through  from  end  to  end  I  know  not  how  many  times. 
And  although  I  know  I  had  not  the  smallest  devotional 
intent,  I  am  sure  that  the  very  fact  of  saturating  myself 
from  such  a  well  of  English  undefiled  was  of  the  very 
greatest  service  to  me.  Eeligion,  indeed,  was  a  by- 
word among  us.  We  knew  that  the  owners  of  the 
ship  were  considered  a  highly  religious  firm,  and  that 
Captain  Bunker  was  believed  by  them  to  be  a  holy 
man.  Illogically,  we  transferred  some  of  our  hatred 
of  his  hypocrisy  to  his  employers,  who  were  probably 
not  in  the  least  to  blame  for  our  sufferings.  Therefore, 
in  the  many  discussions  w^hich  took  place  in  the  fore- 
castle on  things  in  general,  the  conversation  usually 
turned  upon  the  general  worthlessness  and  scoundrelism 
of  religious  people  in  general,  and  our  captain  and 
owners  in  particular.  There  were  no  arguments,  for 
we  were  all  of  one  way  of  thinking,  and  there  was  no 
one  to  show  us  any  light  upon  the  subject.  As  far  as 
I  was  concerned  my  early  piety  had  all  gone,  with  the 
exception  of  an  awful  fear  of  death,  in  what  I  felt  was 
my  unprepared  (!)  condition,  and  an  utter  inability  to 
accustom  my  tongue  to  the  continual  blasphemy  of 
sailor-talk.     In  other  directions  my  language  was   as 


;316  TEE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

foul  as  anybody's,  so  that  I  had  nothing  to  brag  about 
if  I  had  thought  of  doing  so.  As  we  drew  down  towards 
the  African  land,  the  question  of  food  became  very 
serious  again.  The  flour  which  had  been  bought  in 
Eangoon  was  abeady  almost  uneatable — full  of  vermin 
of  various  kinds,  and  of  a  dirty  grey  colour.  Our 
cargo  was  not  available,  being  unhusked  rice,  or 
"paddy,"  and  the  meat  was  the  worst  I  had  ever  seen, 
with  the  exce^Dtion  of  that  in  my  first  ship.  A  portion 
of  it  boiled,  and  left  for  a  few  hours,  became  white  and 
hard  as  a  piece  of  marble,  with  the  exuding  salt.  There 
was  an  increasing  monotone  of  grumbling,  which 
nothing  but  the  lovely  weather  and  easy  times  pre- 
vented from  breaking  into  open  revolt.  At  last  we 
made  the  land  somewhere  about  East  London,  and  it 
began  to  be  whispered  about  among  us  that  the  old 
man  meant  going  into  Algoa  Bay  for  supplies.  "What 
foundation  there  was  for  the  rumour  I  don't  know,  but 
it  had  a  marked  effect  upon  every  one's  spirits,  so  that 
she  was  quite  a  different  ship.  Port  Elizabeth  had 
been  the  Ilarroivhf  s  first  port  at  the  beginning  of 
her  long  voyage,  and  probably  that  had  some  weight 
in  making  the  skipper  determine  to  call  there  again. 
Some  of  his  old  cronies  would  doubtless  welcome  him, 
for  he  had  not  then  begun  to  practise  leaving  without 
settling  his  accounts.  Whatever  the  cause,  the  con- 
firmation of  the  rumour  that  we  were  going  to  put  in 
re-invigorated  us,  and  we  all  showed  the  utmost 
willingness  at  every  task. 

The  weather  now  began  to  play  tricks  upon  us : 
baffling  winds,  fogs,  and  cold,  raw  rain  replacing  the 
idyllic  climate  we  had  so  long  been  enjoying.     And,  as 


HOMEWARD-BOUND   IN  DIFFICULTIES.         317 

we  gradually  crept  south,  more  than  one  gale  gave  us  a 
severe  drubbing — sometimes  blowing  us  so  far  off  the 
land  that  we  began  to  fear  he  would  give  up  the  idea  of 
going  in,  after  all.  But  when  one  morning  the  order 
came  to  get  the  anchor  over  the  bows,  and  bend  on  the 
cables,  all  doubts  and  fears  were  silenced,  and  a  general 
air  of  expectancy  took  their  place.  .  The  next  night  the 
wind  veered  to  the  eastward,  and  blew  hard ;  but  under 
a  heavy  press  of  sail  we  stood  in  for  the  land,  heading, 
as  we  believed,  straight  for  our  port.  All  through  the 
night  a  keen  look-out  was  kept,  but  nothing  was  seen. 
When  the  grey,  cheerless  dawn  broke  we  were  still 
plunging  shoreward  through  the  ugly  cross-sea,  making 
wretched  weather  of  it,  not  a  dry  corner  to  be  found 
forrard  or  aft.  A  dense  mist  prevented  us  from  seeing 
many  ships'  lengths  ahead,  but  that  gave  none  of  us 
forrard  any  uneasiness,  as  we  believed  that  with  all  his 
faults  the  old  man  was  a  fairly  good  navigator.  Two 
of  us  were  on  the  look-out,  peering  through  the  grey 
veil,  when  suddenly  on  the  starboard  bow,  not  more 
than  a  mile  away,  appeared  the  tall  spectre  of  a  light- 
house, the  red  and  white  bands  upon  it  just  visible. 
A  chill  of  horror  ran  through  us  all,  added  to  the  next 
moment  by  the  appalling  cry  of  "Breakers  right 
ahead  !"  The  helm  was  instantly  put  up  and  the  yards 
squared,  but  oh  !  how  lazily  she  answered  her  helm. 
Then  the  haze  lifted,  and,  as  she  slowly  paid  off,  we 
saw  all  along  our  starboard  beam,  and  apparently  not 
a  cable's  length  off,  the  mighty  foaming  range  of 
breakers  that  seemed  hungry  for  us,  flinging  their  tops 
high  into  the  air  and  bellowing  like  a  thousand  savage 
bulls.      Just  as  if  there  was  some   almost   irresistible 


318  TEE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

attraction  drawing  us  broadside  on  to  that  tumult  of 
death,  we  crawled  along,  burying  the  lee-rail  under  water 
with  the  tremendous  press  of  sail  we  were  carrying, 
and  expecting  each  moment  to  hear  a  crack  overhead,  and 
see  some  of  our  spars  go,  sealing  our  death-warrant. 
But  our  end  was  not  yet.  Presently  the  most  de- 
sj)ondent  among  us  could  see  that  we  were  gaining 
ground,  and  gradually  we  clawed  off  that  frightful  reef 
out  to  the  friendly  sea  again.  A  good  offing  having 
been  made,  we  stood  to  the  westward  once  more,  for 
the  lighthouse  we  had  seen  was  Cape  Recife,  and  our 
objective  was  but  a  short  distance  to  the  northward  of 
it.  We  had  just  struck  the  wrong  side  of  it,  that  was 
all.  Still,  with  all  our  efforts,  it  was  as  much  as  we 
could  do  to  get  into  Algoa  Bay  before  dark,  and  anchor 
well  to  seaward  of  all  the  other  vessels,  in  readiness  to 
leave  again. 


(     319     ) 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 


DEEP-WATER    COASTING. 


Landing  that  night  was  quite  out  of  the  question,  for  all 
the  surf-boats  had  been  secured,  and  even  had  we 
possessed  a  good  boat  of  our  own  (which  we  did  not) 
we  could  not  have  landed  in  this  tumultuous  bay  as 
ever  was.  So  the  anchor- watch  was  set,  and  everybody 
else  turned  in  to  sleep  the  curious,  uneasy  sleep  of  the 
sailor  just  in  port,  after  a  long  series  of  watches  at  sea 
four  hours  on  and  off.  But  the  earliest  surf-boat  out 
in  the  morning  came  aJongside,  and  took  Captain 
Bunker  ashore.  His  last  words  to  the  mate  were  to 
"heave  short"  at  noon,  for  he  would  then  be  off  with 
the  stores,  and  we  should  weigh  immediately.  That 
was  all  very  well  for  him,  but  by  ten  o'clock  a  howling 
black  south-easter  was  blowing,  and  we  had  a  full  taste 
of  the  delights  of  Algoa  Bay.  The  gale  blew  right  into 
the  open  harbour,  and  by  noon  the  scene  was  one  of  the 
most  savage  grandeur.  Every  vessel  there  was  plunging 
and  straining  at  her  moorings  as  if  she  must  tear  her- 
self to  pieces  or  uproot  the  steadfast  anchors,  while 
great  sheets  of  spray  often  hid  the  labouring  craft  from 
view.      Our   position   was   dangerous   in   the   extreme. 


320  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

Vessels  aiicliored  in  Algoa  Bay  for  any  length  of  time 
always  have  a  huge  hawser  Lent  to  the  cables,  which, 
of  course,  has  more  elasticity  than  chain,  and  to  this 
they  ride,  even  in  the  worst  weather,  with  comparative 
comfort.  But  we  had  no  such  device.  In  the  first 
place  we  had  no  hawser  fit  for  it,  in  the  next  we  had 
made  no  preparations  for  such  an  emergency.  So  all 
that  we  could  do  was  just  to  give  her  all  the  chain  we 
had  got  on  a  single  anchor,  and  stand-by  to  let  go  the 
other  one  in  case  of  the  first  one  carrying  away.  For 
hours  we  watched  that  tortured  windlass,  and  listened  to 
the  horrible  grind  of  the  massive  links  around  the  iron- 
shod  barrel  thereof,  wondering  each  moment  whether 
the  ■  next  would  be  the  last  or  not.  Again  we  were 
spared,  although  better  -  prepared  vessels  than  ours 
came  to  grief,  piling  their  poor  remains  up  among  the 
man}'  other  relics  scattered  about  that  ravenous  shore. 
By  nightfall  the  wind  had  taken  ofl'  greatly,  although 
the  old  sea  still  kept  her  leaping  and  curtseying  like  a 
lunatic,  and  made  our  sleep  a  mere  pretence.  And  we 
all  felt  sure  that  our  reverend  skipper  was  snugly 
ensconced  in  some  red-curtained  bar  ashore,  with  a 
jorum  of  grog  and  a  churchwarden  aglow ;  and  would 
be  rather  relieved  than  otherwise  to  know  that  his  ship 
had  come  to  grief,  and  thus  prevented  the  catastrophe 
that  was  surely  awaiting  him  on  his  return  home. 
Along  about  noon,  however,  he  hove  in  sight.  When 
he  came  alongside  the  cargo  he  had  brought  with  him 
set  all  our  mouths  watering.  There  was  a  side  of  fresh 
beef,  two  carcases  of  mutton,  and  a  small  cartload  of 
potatoes,  caulifl.owers,  and  onions.  But  of  sea-stock 
there  was  hardly  any.     Three  packages  comprised  the 


DEEP-WATER    COASTING.  321 

whole — one  of  peas,  one  of  flour,  and  one  of  limejuicc. 
Yet  with  an  obtuseness  that  is  even  now  a  mystery  to 
me,  no  one  raised  any  objection.  The  things  were  just 
hoisted  on  board,  the  boat  left,  and,  when  the  order  was 
given  to  man  the  windlass,  there  was  not  a  dissentient 
murmur.  Of  course  remarks  were  bandied  about  as 
freely  as  usual  upon  the  never-failing  subject  of  the  old 
man's  delinquencies  ;  but  that  was  because  he  stood 
upon  the  house  aft,  his  knobbly  face  glowing  like  a  port 
sidelight,  his  hands  upon  his  hips,  and  his  whole 
bearing  that  of  a  man  whom  a  skinful  of  whisky  had 
put  upon  the  best  of  terms  with  himself.  Ux)  and  down 
went  the  windless-brakes  cheerily,  while  Bill  and  I 
hauled  back  the  chain ;  but  presently  she  gave  a  dive, 
and,  when  she  sprang  upward  again,  there  was  a  sudden 
grind  of  the  cable,  and  out  flew  several  fathoms  of  it, 
tearing  the  chain-hooks  from  our  hands,  and  treating 
us  to  an  extremely  narrow  escape  of  following  them. 
Then  there  was  a  chorus  of  language  from  the  men  on 
the  forecastle.  All  sorts  of  epithets  were  hurled  at  our 
unfortunate  heads  for  our  failure  to  hold  on.  But 
while  they  yet  spake,  she  gave  another  curtsey,  and  out 
went  some  more.  That  was  sufficient  to  indicate  the 
kind  of  a  picnic  we  were  in  for,  and  no  time  was  lost  in 
rigging  a  big  fourfold  or  "  luff  "-tackle,  which  was 
stretched  right  along  the  deck  from  a  stout  ringbolt 
near  the  mainmast,  and  the  forrard  end  hooked  on  to 
the  chain.  The  fall  was  then  taken  to  the  after-capstan, 
and  we  two  ordinary  seamen,  aided  by  the  skipper  and 
the  two  boys,  hove  at  it  continually  as  the  chain  came 
slowly  in.  iVs  long  as  there  was  any  scope  of  cable 
out,  things  went  on  all  right,  but  as  soon  as  we  were 

Y 


322  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

liove  short,  it  looked  as  if  some  damage  was  bouud  to 
ensue.  Sail  was  loosed,  ready  to  get  way  upon  her  as 
soon  as  the  anchor  was  off  the  ground,  she  all  the  time 
straining  and  jumping  at  her  cable  like  some  infuriated 
wild  beast.  At  last  she  dipped  her  bows  right  to  the 
level  of  an  incoming  swell,  which,  as  it  passed  under 
her  forefoot,  flung  her  high  in  air.  There  was  a 
rending  crash,  a  shower  of  sparks,  and  she  was  free. 
"Anchor's  gone,  sir!"  shouted  the  mate,  springing  off 

the  forecastle  amid  a  chorus  of  " good  job,  too," 

from  all  hands.  As  hard  as  we  could  pelt  we  got  the 
sail  on  her,  and  in  a  few  minutes  were  outside  the 
Bay,  the  loose  end  of  the  parted  cable  hanging  at 
the  bows.  So  closed  our  expensive  visit  to  Port 
Elizabeth,  and  before  nightfall  we  were  under  all 
canvas,  slipping  down  towards  the  Cape  with  the 
favouring  current  and  wind  at  a  great  rate,  our  star- 
board anchor  still  hanging  over  the  bows.  All  minor 
discomforts  were  forgotten,  however,  in  the  glorious 
feed  provided  for  us  by  the  cook.  While  we  were 
revelling  in  the  good  fresh  mutton  and  vegetables,  that 
worthy  came  into  the  forecastle,  and  received  our  con- 
gratulations with  the  self-satisfied  air  of  one  who  feels 
that  he  has  deserved  well  of  his  fellows.  Presently  he 
informed  us  confidentially  that  he  had  received  no 
orders  as  to  the  disposal  of  the  provisions,  and  that 
it  was  therefore  his  fixed  determination  to  serve  them 
out  to  all  hands,  both  forrard  and  aft,  impartially,  as 
long  as  they  lasted.  He  kept  his  word  right  manfully. 
For  a  week,  during  which  we  hugged  the  land  right 
round  the  Cape  with  the  anchor  still  outboard,  we  lived 
as  we  had  never  done  since  we  left  Sydney.     Our  gaunt 


DEEP-WATER    COASTING.  323 

faces  lillcd  up  their  sombre  hollows,  our  shrunken 
muscles  developed,  and  we  grew  skittish  as  young  colts. 
Then,  without  warning,  our  luxuries  all  ceased,  and  the 
same  grim  state  of  privation  set  in  as  before. 

As  I  have  so  often  experienced  since,  we  took  a 
steady  southerly  wind  right  off  the  pitch  of  the  Cape, 
before  which  we  hurried  homewards  under  every  rag 
of  sail  we  could  muster — every  hour  bringing  us  nearer 
home.  According  to  all  the  established  rules  on  board 
ship,  we  should  now  have  begun  that  general  "redding- 
up  "  to  which  every  homeward-bounder  is  subjected  as 
soon  as  she  gets  into  the  south-east  trades.  Thanks, 
however,  to  our  skipper's  peculiar  notions  of  how  to 
deal  with  his  owner's  property,  we  had  no  new  ratline 
stuff  on  board  wherewith  to  "  rattle  down  " — as  the 
process  of  fitting  new  rungs  to  the  rope-ladders  leading 
aloft  is  termed.  We  could  not  reeve  new  running-gear 
for  the  same  reason,  or  fit  new  footropes,  or  repair  the 
"service"  where  chafed  out  aloft.  We  had  hardly  any 
paint,  or  varnish,  or  tar,  yet  the  apprentices  declared 
that  when  she  left  home  she  was  fully  provided  with 
such  stores  for  a  three  years'  voyage — as  the  owners 
were  large  ship-chandlers  and  never  let  their  own  ships 
go  to  sea  meanly  supplied.  She  had  been  out  barely 
two  years — very  little  of  anything  had  been  used — so 
that  she  was  quite  poverty-stricken  aloft,  and  yet  there 
was  nothing  left  to  make  her  look  respectable  coming 
home.  We  all  had  easy  times,  it  is  true  ;  but  that  was 
not  altogether  a  blessing,  since  sailorizing  is  generally 
liked  by  seamen,  who  would  growl  like  tigers  at  the 
petty  half-and-half  scavenging  often  done  on  board  such 
ships  as  the  Ilarroichy  under   pretence  of  smartening 


324  TEE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

sLiip.  So  restless  and  iiTitablc  did  the  men  beeome 
that  it  was  easy  to  see  trouble  at  hand.  Only  a  spark 
Mas  needed  to  kindle  a  big  explosion.  This  ^Yas  supplied 
by  the  unhappy  cook,  who  burnt  most  scandalously  the 
only  meal  wc  could  really  eat  with  any  heartiness — our 
pea-soup.  Poor  wretch ! — in  answer  to  the  ferocious 
inquiries  of  the  men  for  something  to  stay  their  gnaw- 
ing stomachs  with,  he  could  only  bleat  feebly  that  he 
"  hadn't  got  nothing ;  nothing  at  all  to  give  'em." 
They  knew  very  well  that  this  was  true  ;  but  our  latest 
recruit,  Sam,  the  ex-cook,  swore  he  would  have  some- 
thing to  eat  or  he'd  know  the  reason  why.  So,  snatching 
up  the  steaming  kid  of  soup,  he  rushed  aft  with  it,  and, 
in  a  voice  broken  with  rage  and  excitement,  demanded 
the  skipper  of  the  grinning  boy  at  the  cabin  door. 
"  Tell  him  I'm  engaged — can't  see  him  now  !  "  shouted 
the  skipper  from  within.  That  was  enough.  In  bounced 
Sam,  pale  with  fury,  and,  shoving  the  reeking  tub  of 
soup  under  the  skipper's  nose  as  he  sat  at  the  table, 
hissed,  "Wat  kinder  stuff  djer  think  thct  is  fer  men 
t'eat?"  Leaning  back  as  far  as  possible  from  the 
foul  mess  the  skipper  panted,  "  Git  out  o'  my  cabin, 
yew  impident  scoundrel !  What  jer  mean  by  darin'  ter 
come  in  'ere  like  thet?"  Splash!  and  over  went  the 
kid  of  soup  on  top  of  the  skipper's  head,  which  rose 
from  out  of  that  smoking  yellow  flood  like  a  totally  new 
kind  of  Yenus.  The  liberal  anointing  ran  down  the 
old  man's  beard  and  back,  even  unto  the  confines  of 
his  trouser-legs,  while  he  spluttered,  choked,  and 
scooped  at  his  eyes  in  utter  bewilderment.  As  for 
Sam,  he  stood  like  a  statue  of  wrath,  in  full  enjoyment 
of  his  revenge,  until  the  outraged  skipper  recovered  his 


DEEP-WATER    COASTING.  325 

voice,  and  screamed  for  help.  Down  tumbled  the  mate 
through  the  after-companion,  but  the  sight  which 
greeted  his  astonished  eyes  fairly  paralyzed  him. 
"  Seize  him  !  put  him  in  irons  !  "  yelled  the  skipper, 
'*  He's  scalded  me !  th'  infernal  vagbon's  scalded  me!  " 
But  Mr,  Messenger  was  disinclined  to  undertake  the 
job  single-handed — knowing,  too,  how  likely  it  was 
that  any  such  attempt  would  almost  certainly  bring 
all  hands  on  the  scene  ripe  for  a  row.  Therefore,  Sam, 
after  unpacking  his  heart  of  a  few  hearty  curses  upon 
skipper  and  ship,  made  good  his  retreat  forward  to  the 
fo'lk'sle,  where  his  version  of  the  encounter  was  received 
with  delirious  merriment.  The  delight  shown  at  this 
summary  assault  upon  the  old  man  actually  took  the 
place  of  dinner,  and,  although  no  substitute  for  the 
spoiled  soup  was  forthcoming,  nothing  more  was  said 
on  the  subject.  When  the  cabin-boy  came  forrard  that 
evening  with  his  nightly  budget  of  stories  about  the 
common  enemy,  he  convulsed  us  all  by  his  graphic 
details  of  the  skipper's  struggles  to  free  himself  from 
the  clinging  mess  congealed  about  him.  But  there  was 
not  heard  one  word  of  pity — no,  not  even  when  Harry 
told  us  that  his  bald  head  was  as  red  as  a  beetroot. 
This  affair  kept  all  hands  in  quite  a  good-humour  for 
some  days,  until  one  evening,  Chips,  who  rarely  left  his 
lonely  den,  came  mysteriously  into  the  fo'lk'sle  and  said 
oracularly,  "  Boys,  we  ort  ter  be  gittin'  pretty  cluss  ter 
Sant  Elener.  I  don't  blieve  th'ole  man  means  ter 
sight  it  at  all ;  but  if  he  don't  we  shall  all  be  starved 
ter  death  afore  we  cross  the  line.  /  think  we  ort  ter  go 
aft  in  a  body  'n  tell  him  'at  we  ain't  er-goin'  ter  do 
another  hand's  turn  less  he  goes  in  'n  gits  some  grub 


326  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

ter  carry  us  home."     All  agreed  at  once,  and  the  time 
for  our  ultimatum  was  fixed  for  the  next  day  at  noon. 
But  I  happened  to  be  doing  some  trivial  job   on  the 
main-royal  yard  next  morning,  and,  before  coming  down, 
took,  as  I  usually  did,  a  long  look  all  round  the  horizon. 
And  I  saw  far  aft  on  the  port  quarter  the  massive  out- 
lines of  the  island  of  St.  Helena,  fully  thirty  or  forty 
miles  away.    This  so  excited  me  that  I  could  not  wait  to 
descend  in  the  usual  leisurely  fashion,  but,  gripping  the 
royal  backstay,  came  sliding  to  the  deck  like  a  monkey. 
Without  losing  a  minute  I  rushed  forrard  and  told  my 
news.      There  was   no   longer   delay.     Headed   by  the 
carpenter,  all  hands  came  aft  and  demanded  an  inter- 
view with  the  skipper.     As  soon  as  he  appeared  the 
option  was  given  him  of  either  going  in  to  St.  Helena, 
or  sailing  the  ship  himself.     He  then  informed  us  what 
was  our  exact  position,  and  dwelt  upon  the  length  of 
time   it   would   take   to  beat   back  against  the  strong 
trade  blowing.     Old  Chips,  however,  was  ready  for  him. 
He   said   at   once,   "  Very  well,    sir,  why  not   go   into 
Ascension  ?  "     "  Oh,  they  won't  let  us  have  any  stores 
there  :  it's  a  Government  dockyard,  'n  they  only  supply 
men-o'-war."      "  That   be    damned    for   a   yarn,"   said 
Chips  ;    "  w'y,  I've  had  stores   there  myself  only  two 
year  'n  a  half  ago.     Anyhow,  cap'n,  there  it  is  :  you 
k'n  do  wot  yer  like,  but  we  ain't  a-goin'  ter  starve  'n 
work  the  ship  too."     After  a  minute  or  two's  cogitation, 
the  old  man  replied  wearily,  "  Oh,  very  well,  I'll  go  and 
draw  up  the  happlication,  an'  you'll  all  'ave  ter  sign 
it."     Artful  old  curmudgeon  !     Still,  we  didn't  care  as 
long  as  we  got  some  grub ;  so,  when  he  called  us  aft 
again  and  read  out  the  string  of  fabrications  he  had 


DEEP-WATER    COASTING.  327 

concocted,  carefully  omitting  all  mention  of  our  call  at 
Algoa  Bay,  all  hands  signed  it  as  cheerfully  as  if  it  had 
been  their  account  of  wages. 

But  the  look-out  that  was  kept  from  that  day  forth, 
and  the  careful  calculations  of  course  and  distance 
every  watch,  I  have  never  seen  equalled  in  a  ship's 
fo'lk'sle  before  or  since.  And  when  at  last  the  rugged 
burnt-up  heap  of  volcanic  debris  appeared  above  the 
horizon  right  ahead,  our  relief  was  immense.  Our 
simple  preparations  for  anchoring  were  soon  made,  and 
our  one  serviceable  boat  cleared  for  hoisting  out,  for, 
like  the  majority  of  that  class  of  vessels,  the  boats  were 
stowed  and  lumbered  up  with  all  sorts  of  incongruous 
rubbish,  as  if  they  were  never  likely  to  be  needed  ;  and 
the  long-boat — upon  which,  in  case  of  disaster  to  the 
ship,  all  our  lives  would  depend — was  so  leaky  and 
rotten,  that  she  would  not  have  kept  afloat  five  minutes 
in  a  millpond.  As  we  opened  up  the  tiny  bay,  where 
the  Government  buildings  are  clustered,  we  saw,  flutter- 
ing from  the  flagstaff  at  the  summit  of  a  conical  hill, 
most  prosaically  like  a  huge  "  ballast  "-heap,  a  set  of 
flags  silently  demanding  our  business.  Our  set  of 
signals  being  incomplete,  we  could  only  reply  by  hoist- 
ing our  ensign  and  standing  steadily  in  for  the 
anchorage.  But  before  we  came  within  a  mile  of  it, 
a  trim  cutter  glided  alongside,  and  a  smart  officer  in 
naval  uniform  sprang  on  board.  With  just  a  touch  of 
asperity  in  his  tone,  he  inquired  our  business,  and, 
upon  being  deferentially  informed  by  the  skipper,  imme- 
diately ordered  the  main-yard  to  be  laid  aback  while  he 
went  below  to  inspect  the  contents  of  our  store-room. 
Apparently  his  scrutiny  was  satisfactory,  for,  returning 


328  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

on  deck,  be  ordered  the  main-yard  to  be  filled  again, 
and  conned  the  ship  up  to  the  anchorage.  He  then 
re-entered  his  boat  and  sped  away  shoreward,  while 
we,  as  soon  as  ever  the  ship  had  swung  to  her  anchor, 
just  clewed  up  the  sails,  and  then  made  all  baste  to 
get  the  boat  into  the  water.  As  soon  as  this  was  done, 
four  hands  and  the  skipper  got  into  her  and  pulled  for 
the  shore  ;  the  old  man's  last  words  being,  "  I  'spect  I 
shall  be  back  in  an  hour." 

To  while  away  the  time,  pending  their  return,  I 
started  fishing;  but  I  never  want  to  get  among  such 
fish  as  they  were  again.  Lovely  in  their  hues  beyond 
belief,  but  with  nothing  else  to  recommend  them,  they 
tried  my  patience  sorely.  I  have  since  learned  that 
they  were  a  sub-variety  of  CJiatodon,  having  teeth 
almost  like  a  human  being,  but  so  keen  and  powerful 
that  they  were  able  to  sever  copper-wire.  After  losing 
most  of  my  hooks,  I  at  last  "snooded"  with  a  few 
strands  of  silk  not  twisted  together.  By  this  means 
I  succeeded  in  getting  half  a  dozen  of  the  gorgeous 
creatures  on  deck.  But  their  amazing  colours,  fearful 
spikiness,  and  leathery  skin  effectually  frightened  us 
from  eating  them,  as  most  of  us  were  painfully  aware 
of  the  penalty  for  eating  strange  fish.  The  swelled 
and  burning  head,  lancinating  pains,  and  general 
debility  afterwards,  consequent  upon  fish-poisoning, 
make  sailors  very  careful  to  taste  none  but  known 
kinds  of  deep-sea  fish,  and  any  queer  shape  or  colour 
among  reef-fish  is  sufficient  to  bar  their  use  as  food. 

At  the  expiration  of  two  hours  and  a  half  our 
boat  returned,  laden  to  the  gunwale  with  bags  and 
cases,  showing  plainl}^  that  here,  at  any  rate,  the  old 


DEEP-WATER    COASTING.  829 

man  bad  not  been  permitted  to  exercise  bis  own  judg- 
ment as  to  wbat  bis  requirements  were  likely  to  be. 
In  feverisb  baste  we  got  tbe  stores  on  board,  tbe 
skipper  appearing  in  a  bigb  state  of  nervous  appre- 
hension lest  tbe  keen-eyed  watcbers  asbore  sbould 
deem  bim  slack  in  leaving.  Indeed,  tbe  report  of 
tbe  boat's  crew  was  to  tbe  effect  tbat  tbe  skipper 
bad  been  treated  witb  very  scant  courtesy — not  even 
being  allowed  to  say  bow  mucb  of  tbis,  tbat,  or  tbe 
otber,  be  would  take ;  and,  wben  be  was  leaving,  being 
sternly  admonisbed  to  lose  no  time  in  getting  under 
way,  or  be  would  certainly  find  bimself  in  trouble. 
Sucb  was  tbe  baste  displayed  all  tbrougb,  tbat,  within 
four  bours  from  tbe  time  of  tbe  officer's  boarding  us, 
we  were  off  again,  our  bead  once  more  pointing 
homeward. 

From  tbat  time  onward,  until  our  arrival  in  Fal- 
mouth, we  never  had  cause  to  complain  of  bad  food. 
Everything  supplied  us  from  tbe  Naval  Stores  was  the 
best  of  its  kind — as,  of  course,  it  sbould  be.  It  filled 
us  all  witb  respect  for  tbe  way  in  which  men-o'-war's 
men  are  fed,  even  without  tbe  many  opportunities 
allowed  them  for  exchanging  the  service  rations  for 
shore  provisions.  In  consequence  of  tbis  welcome 
change  everything  on  board  went  on  greased  wheels. 
The  old  man  effaced  himself,  as  usual,  never  interfering 
with  anybody,  and,  for  a  month,  we  were  as  quiet  a 
ship  as  you  would  find  afloat.  Slowly  we  edged  our 
way  across  the  belt  of  calms  to  tbe  northward  of  tbe 
Line,  inch  by  inch,  our  efforts  almost  entirely  confined 
to  working  the  ship  and  making  sennit.  By-and-bye 
we  came  into  a  calm  streak,  where  sea  and  sky  were 


330  TEE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

SO  much  alike  that  it  was  hard  to  tell  where  one  left 
off  and  the  other  hegan :  weather  beautiful  beyond 
description,  but  intensely  aggravating  to  men  tired 
of  the  ship  and  the  voyage,  and  exceedingly  trying 
to  the  temper  of  all  hands.  For  a  week  this  stagnant 
state  of  things  prevailed ;  and  then,  one  morning, 
we  were  all  interested  to  find  another  barque  within 
a  couple  of  miles  of  us.  In  that  mysterious  way  in 
which  two  vessels  will  draw  near  each  other  in  a 
stark  calm,  we  got  closer  and  closer,  until  at  last 
our  skipper  took  a  notion  to  visit  her.  So  the  boat 
was  got  out,  and  we  pulled  alongside  of  her.  She 
was  the  Stanlei/  Sleatli  of  London,  from  'Frisco  to 
London,  one  hundred  and  sixty  days  out.  She  was 
an  iron  vessel,  and  never  shall  I  forget  the  sight  she 
presented  as  she  rolled  her  lower  strakes  out  of  water. 
Great  limpets,  some  three  inches  across,  yard-long 
barnacles,  and  dank  festoons  of  weeds,  clothed  her 
below  the  water-line  from  stem  to  stern,  and  how 
she  ever  made  any  progress  at  all  was  a  mystery. 
She  smelt  just  like  a  reef  at  low  water ;  and  it  looked 
as  if  the  fish  took  her  for  something  of  that  nature, 
for  she  was  accompanied  by  a  perfect  host  of  them, 
of  all  shapes  and  sizes,  so  that  she  rolled  as  if  in 
some  huge  aquarium.  She  certainly  presented  a 
splendid  field  for  the  study  of  marine  natural  history. 
None  of  us  went  on  board  but  the  skipper;  but  some 
of  the  watch  below  leaned  over  the  rail  as  we  swung 
alongside  and  told  us  a  pitiful  story.  Through  some- 
body's negligence  the  lid  of  their  only  water-tank 
had  been  left  oft',  with  the  result  that  some  rats  had 
got   in  and  been  drowned.     This  had  tainted  all  the 


DEEP-WATER    COASTING.  381 

water  so  vilely  that  no  one  save  a  sailor  burning 
with  thirst  could  drink  it,  and  nothing  would  disguise 
that  rotting  flavour.  The  captain  had  his  young  wife 
on  board,  and  she  had  been  made  so  ill  that  she  was 
delirious,  her  one  cry  being  for  "  a  drink  of  water." 
And  no  one  seemed  to  have  had  sufficient  gumption 
to  rig  up  a  small  condenser !  It  hardly  seemed 
credible,  had  it  not  been  that  similar  cases  were  well 
known  to  most  of  us.  We  had  plenty  of  good  water, 
and  our  skipper  sent  us  back  on  board  with  orders 
to  the  mate  to  fill  a  two-hundred-gallon  cask,  bung 
it  up  tight,  and  lower  it  overboard.  We  were  then 
to  tow  it  back  to  the  Stanley  Slcath.  As  a  cask  or 
tank  of  fresh  water  floats  easily  in  the  sea,  this  was 
not  a  difficult  task,  nor  were  we  long  in  executing  it. 
It  was  the  best  deal  made  by  our  old  man  for  many 
a  long  day,  for  he  got  in  exchange  a  fat  sow,  weighing 
about  fifteen  stone,  two  gallons  of  rum,  and  a  case 
of  sugar.  Followed  by  the  fervent  thanks  of  her 
anxious  commander,  we  rowed  away  from  the  Stanley 
Sleath,  our  approach  to  our  own  vessel  again  being 
heralded  by  the  frantic  squeals  of  our  prize,  who  lay 
under  the  thwarts,  her  feet  securely  bound  but  her 
voice  in  splendid  working  order.  That  evening  a  breeze 
sprang  up,  and,  slow  as  we  were,  we  soon  left  our  late 
consort  hull  down.  Thenceforward  for  nearly  a  fort- 
night we  saw  nothing  of  our  teetotal  skipper.  The 
rum  had  been  given  us  in  lime-juice  bottles,  packed 
in  the  original  case,  so  that  nobody  knew  but  what 
a  case  of  lime-juice  had  come  on  board.  And  yet, 
as  we  had  an  abundance  of  lime-juice,  we  wondered 
why   the    skipper   had   not   chosen    something   else   in 


382  THE  LOG    OF   A    SEA- WAIF. 

payment  for  the  water.  The  cabin-boy,  as  usual,  got 
the  first  inkling  of  the  mystery.  Somehow  he  was  a 
prime  favourite  with  the  old  man,  who,  I  suppose, 
turned  to  Harry  in  his  loneliness  and  made  something 
of  a  pet  of  him,  getting,  in  return,  all  his  little  weak- 
nesses reported  verbatim  to  the  fellows  forward  everj^ 
evening.  Going  to  call  the  captain  to  supper  on  the 
same  evening  we  visited  the  other  ship,  the  boy  noticed 
an  overpowering  smell  of  rum,  and,  upon  tapping 
at  the  state-room  door,  he  heard  a  thick  voice  murmur, 
"  'Mnor  vry  well  shevenin' ;  shlay  down  bit."  That 
was  enough  for  Harry.  Peeping  in,  he  saw  the  skipper 
lolling  on  his  chest,  a  big  black  bottle  wedged  securely 
down  by  his  side,  and  a  glass  in  his  hand.  From 
that  spell  of  drink  he  did  not  emerge  until  the  last 
of  the  bottles  was  emptied. 


(     333     ) 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

WHICH    BRINGS    US    TO    PORT    AT    LAST. 

Fortunately  for  us  the  condition  of  the  skipper  didn't 
count  for  anything,  as  we  made  our  usual  progress 
homeward  indifferent  to  his  pranks.  The  north-east 
trades  hung  far  to  the  eastward,  allowing  us  to  make 
an  excellent  course  northward  ;  but,  as  they  were  very 
light,  our  gain  from  their  favouring  cant  was  slight. 
Just  upon  the  northern  verge  of  the  tropic  we  lost  them 
altogether,  and  lay  lolling  about  in  windless,  stagnating 
ease  for  another  week,  exasperating  all  hands  at  this 
unlooked-for  extension  of  our  already  lengthy  passage. 
But  even  this  enforced  wait  had  its  advantages.  We 
spoke  another  barque — homeward-bound  from  Brisbane 
— and  again  our  adventurous  commander  would  go 
ship-visiting.  In  fact,  he  allowed  it  to  become  known 
that,  but  for  our  determined  attitude  about  calling  at 
Ascension,  he  had  intended  to  beg  his  way  home — a 
peculiarly  irritating  practice  much  fancied  by  men  of 
his  stamp,  who  thus  levy  a  sort  of  blackmail  upon 
well-found  ships.  They  pitch  a  pitiful  yarn  about  bad 
weather  and  abnormal  length  of  passage,  with  such 
embroidery  as  their  imagination  suggests,  and  generally 
succeed  in  getting  quite  a  lot  of  things  "  on  the  cheap." 


334  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

What  8ort  of  a  yarn  our  mendacious  skipper  spun  to 
this  last  vessel  \vc  had  no  means  of  knowing,  as  the  boat's 
crew  were  not  allowed  to  board  her ;  but  he  succeeded  in 
getting  a  couple  of  cases  of  preserved  beef  and  some 
small  stores.  Much  to  his  disgust,  however,  there  was 
no  li(jUor  of  any  kind  to  be  had.  The  only  thing  that 
the  other  ship  wanted  was  a  few  coals  for  the  galley 
lire ;  so,  while  our  skipper  stayed  on  board,  the  boat  was 
sent  back  for  them.  Now  it  was  Sunday  afternoon, 
and  when  Bill  and  I  were  ordered  to  go  down  into  the 
fore-peak  and  fill  three  sacks  with  coal,  we  felt  much 
aggrieved.  So,  grumblingly,  we  dived  into  the  black 
pit  forrard,  and  began  to  fill  the  sacks.  But,  suddenly, 
a  bright  idea  struck  us.  The  only  pretence  at  ship- 
smartening  we  were  likely  to  make  was  "  holystoning  " 
the  decks,  and,  to  this  end,  several  lumps  of  sandstone 
had  been  saved  ever  since  we  left  Sydney.  Now,  I  have 
before  noted  in  what  abhorrence  holystoning  is  held 
by  all  who  have  to  perform  it,  and  here  was  a  heaven- 
sent opportunity  to  make  the  job  impossible.  So  we 
carefully  interspersed  the  lumps  of  stone  among  the 
coal  in  the  sacks,  taking  every  precaution  to  leave  not 
a  fragment  behind.  Away  it  went  to  the  other  ship  :  it 
was  hoisted  on  board,  our  boat  returned,  a  breeze 
sprang  up  and  we  parted  company,  seeing  each  other 
no  more.  Two  or  three  days  after  the  order  was  given 
to  get  up  the  holystones  for  cleaning  ship.  Words  could 
not  express  the  wrath  of  the  mate  when  it  was  reported 
to  him  that  none  were  to  be  found.  Every  bit  of  coal 
in  the  fore-peak  was  dug  over  under  his  immediate 
supervision,  he  getting  in  a  most  parlous  mess  the 
while,  but  in  vain.     I  never  saw  a  man  get  so  angry 


WIIIQII  BRINGS    US    TO   PORT  AT  LAST.       335 

over  a  trifle.  He  swore  that  they  had  beeu  thrown 
overboard  by  somebody,  being  certain  that  there  had 
been  an  ample  store.  Singularly  enough,  he  never 
dreamed  of  the  real  way  of  their  going,  and  the  actual 
perpetrators  of  the  certainly  immoral  act  were  never 
even  suspected.  We  had  to  do  the  best  we  could  with 
ashes  and  brooms,  but  they  made  a  poor  substitute  for 
the  ponderous  scouring  of  the  stones.  I  regret  to  say 
that  neither  of  us  felt  the  slightest  remorse  for  our  deed, 
and,  when  we  heard  the  delighted  comments  of  the  men 
were  more  puffed  up,  I  am  afraid,  than  we  should  have 
been  by  the  consciousness  of  having  acted  ever  so 
virtuously. 

And  now,  as  we  were  approaching  the  area  of  heavy 
weather,  and  our  stun'sails  were  worn  almost  to  muslin, 
we  began  to  send  down  the  stun'sail  gear.  The  first 
thing  that  happened :  the  ex-cook,  in  sending  down  one 
of  the  topgallant  stun'sail-booms  (a  spar  like  a  smooth 
scaffold-pole),  made  his  "  rolling  hitch  "  the  wrong  wa3\ 
Perfectly  satisfied  that  all  was  in  order  he  sung  out  to 
us  on  deck  to  "hoist  away."  The  moment  we  did  so, 
and  the  boom  swung  out  of  the  irons  in  which  it  had 
been  lying,  it  assumed  a  vertical  position  and  slid 
through  the  hitch  like  lightning,  just  missing  the  rail, 
and  plunging  end-on  into  the  sea  alongside.  We  were 
going  about  four  knots  at  the  time,  and  when  it  sprang 
upwards  again  it  struck  us  under  the  counter  with  a 
bang  that  almost  stove  in  the  outer  skin  of  the  ship. 
And,  instead  of  being  at  all  chagrined  at  such  a  gross 
piece  of  bungling,  the  offender  simply  exhausted  his 
copious  vocabulary  of  abuse  when  the  "old  man" 
ventured  to  rebuke  him.     Oh,  our  discipline  was  grand  ! 


336  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

Uaidly  au  Iiuur  ai'terwaids,  iid  taking  iu  the  iore-topmast 
stun'sail,  the  halliards  carried  away.  The  tack  and 
sheet,  rotten  as  cobwebs  almost,  followed  suit,  so  we 
lost  that  too.  The  rest  of  the  rags  were  saved  for  the 
old-rope  merchant. 

Still  the  fine  weather  persisted,  and  at  last  we 
crawled  up  under  the  lee  of  Terceira  in  the  Azores, 
where  we  got  becalmed  within  a  couple  of  miles  of 
Angra.  That  was  on  a  Sunday  afternoon — and  if 
Captain  Bunker  didn't  actually  propose  to  go  ashore 
and  have  a  donkey-ride  !  He  was  j)erfectly  sober,  too. 
But  this  was  too  much  for  even  our  quiet  mate's 
patience.  He  turned  upon  his  commander  at  last.  I 
was  at  the  wheel,  and  heard  him  tell  the  skipper  that 
if  he  carried  out  his  proposal,  and  a  breeze  sprang  up 
while  he  was  ashore,  he,  the  mate,  would  certainly 
make  sail  and  leave  him  there.  He  was  sick  to  death 
of  the  state  of  things,  and  he  w'ould  have  no  more  of  it. 
This  outburst  frightened  the  old  fellow  terribly,  and, 
with  a  feeble  remark  that  he  was  "only  joking,"  he 
disappeared  below.  The  calm  continued  all  through 
the  night,  some  invisible  influence  setting  the  vessel  so 
closely  inshore  that  I  began  to  fear  we  were  going  to 
lose  her  after  all.  Yet  nothing  whatever  was  done  to 
prepare  for  such  a  contingency.  The  anchor  was 
securely  lashed  in  its  sea-position  on  the  forecastle, 
and,  to  all  outward  appearance,  no  notice  was  taken  at 
all  by  the  officers  of  our  undoubtedly  perilous  proximity 
to  the  shore.  Just  before  dawn,  however,  a  little  south- 
easterly breeze  sprang  up,  to  which  we  trimmed  the 
yards,  and  soon  glided  away  from  all  danger.  Gradually 
the  wind  freshened  and  veered  until  at  west-south-west 


WHICH  BRINGS    US    TO   POET  AT  LAST.        ^o/ 

it  was  blowing  a  strong  steady  breeze,  and,  with  all 
square-sail  set,  the  old  Harroicbj/  was  bowling  along  at 
a  good  eight  knots  for  the  Channel.  Faithful  as  usual, 
this  well-beloved  wind  to  the  homeward-bounder  never 
relaxed  its  strenuous  push  until  the  changing  hue  of 
the  water,  plain  for  all  men  to  see,  told  us  that  we  were 
once  more  on  soundings.  Oh,  blessed  sight,  that  never 
falls  upon  the  deep-water  sailor,  the  fading  away  of 
that  deep  fathomless  blue  which  for  so  many,  many 
weary  watches  has  greeted  the  eye  !  Somehow  or  other, 
too,  the  green  of  the  Channel  of  Old  England  has  a 
different  tint  to  any  other  sea-green.  It  is  not  a  pretty 
colour,  will  not  for  a  moment  bear  comparison  with  the 
blazing  emerald  of  some  tropical  shores,  but  it  looks 
welcome — it  says  home ;  and  even  the  most  homeless 
and  hardened  of  shell-backs  feels  a  deep  complacency 
when  it  greets  his  usually  unobservant  eye.  Contrary  to 
my  usual  experience  of  the  brave  westerlies,  this  breeze 
of  ours  did  not  culminate  in  a  gale ;  but  as  we  neared 
the  Scilly  Isles  it  gradually  took  off,  and  the  weather 
brightened,  until  one  heavenly  morning  at  daybreak  we 
saw  under  a  pale-blue  sky,  bathed  in  brilliant  sunshine, 
those  straggling  outposts  of  dear  old  England  like  bits 
of  fairyland — uncut  jewels  scattered  over  a  silver  sea. 
And  here,  to  our  intense  delight,  came  a  dandy  :  one 
of  those  staunch  Falmouth  boats  with  the  funny  little 
jigger  perked  up  aft  like  the  tail  of  a  saucy  cockerel. 
She  made  straight  for  us  in  business-like  fashion, 
rounded  to  alongside,  and  her  commander  climbed 
nimbly  on  board,  while  the  other  two  men  in  her  hove 
on  board  a  splendid  mess  of  fish.  The  enterprising 
boatman  was  the  runner  for  a  Falmouth  tailor,  who 

z 


338  THE  LOG    or  A    SEA- WAIF. 

had  come  out  thus  far  seeking  customers.  He  was,  of 
course,  elated  to  find  that  we  were  bound  into  Falmouth, 
and  that  his  dihgence  was  likely  to  he  rewarded.  For  few 
indeed  are  the  homeward-bounders  calling  at  Falmouth 
for  orders,  whose  crews  do  not  liberally  patronize  the 
Falmouth  outfitters,  getting  good  value  for  their  money, 
and  being  able  to  choose  their  goods  with  clear  heads, 
apart  from  the  bestial  distractions  of  sailor-town.  And 
the  captains  of  such  vessels  are  never  loth,  of  course, 
to  allow  their  men  to  run  up  a  bill  with  the  tailor, 
and  to  forward  the  amount  from  the  port  of  discharge, 
wherever  it  ma}-  be. 

Favoured  still  by  fortune  we  sped  on  toward  the 
lovely  harbour,  and  at  four  p.m.  rounded  the  well- 
known  old  tower  of  Pendennis  and  entered  the  anchor- 
age. Sail-furling  and  clearing  up  decks  was  got  over 
as  if  by  magic,  and,  hj  the  time  we  were  at  leisure 
here  was  the  prompt  tailor-man  with  his  leather-covered 
trunks  full  of  boots  and  clothes,  ready  to  reap  the 
first-fruits  of  our  labours. 

Here  we  lay  in  serenest  peace  for  a  couple  of 
days,  the  weather  being  more  like  late  spring  than 
November,  so  fine  and  balmy  as  to  make  us  wonder 
whether  we  had  not  mistaken  the  time  of  year.  Then 
orders  came  for  us  to  proceed  to  London.  "We  towed 
out  of  the  harbour  on  a  lovely  afternoon,  with  the 
Channel  looking  like  a  glimpse  of  fairyland  under  the 
delicate  blue  of  the  cloudless  sky.  Under  all  sail  we 
gently  jogged  along  the  coast,  standing  more  to  seaward 
as  night  came  on,  and  noting,  with  comfortable  com- 
]Dassion,  the  outward-bounders  just  beginning  the  long 
journey  of  which    we  were  so  near  the   end.      I  had 


WHICH  BRINGS    US    TO   PORT  AT  LAST.        339 

the  ten  to  midnight  wheel,  and,  in  consequence  of 
the  mild  weather,  was  lightly  clad  in  the  usual  tropical 
rig  of  shirt,  trousers,  and  cap.  Before  half  my  "trick" 
was  over  there  was  a  sudden  change.  The  wind  came 
out  from  the  north-east,  and  piped  up  with  a  spiteful 
sting  in  it  that  pierced  me  through.  My  thin  blood 
seemed  to  suck  uj)  the  cold  until  I  was  benumbed 
and  almost  unable  to  move  the  wheel.  But  there 
was  no  chance  to  wrap  up.  All  hands  were  as  busy 
as  bees  shortening  her  down,  for  the  wind  rose  faster 
than  they  could  get  the  sail  in,  and  at  midnight  it 
was  blowing  a  gale,  with  squalls  of  sleet  and  driving 
banks  of  fog.  One  o'clock  came  before  I  was  relieved, 
and  then  I  had  hardly  enough  vitality  left  to  get 
forrard,  my  two  garments  being  stiff  upon  my  lead- 
coloured  flesh.  Somehow  I  got  into  the  forecastle 
and  changed  my  rig ;  then,  rolling  my  one  blanket 
round  me,  I  crawled  into  my  bunk.  No  sleep  and 
no  warmth  could  I  get,  nor  did  I  feel  more  than  half 
alive  at  eight  bells.  But  I  dragged  myself  on  deck 
and  suffered,  till  at  five  a.m.  the  cook  shouted  "  Coffee  !  " 
as  usual,  and  then  the  pannikin  of  boiliug  brown  water 
did  comfort  my  frozen  vitals. 

We  were  now  just  fore-reaching  under  two  lower 
topsails,  reefed  foresail,  and  fore-topmast  staysail — not 
even  holding  our  own.  Every  little  while  the  big 
flyers  outward-bound  would  spring  out  of  the  fog- 
laden  gloom,  and  glide  past  us  under  a  pyramid  of 
canvas  like  vast  spirits  of  the  storm.  Or  a  panting, 
labouring  tramp-steamer  would  plough  her  painful  way 
up  channel  right  in  the  wind's  eye,  digging  her  blunt 
snout   into   the   angry  brine,  and  lifting  it  aboard  in 


340  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

a  roaring  flood  that  bid  her  for  a  minute  entirely 
under  a  mantle  of  white  foam.  We  had  even  some 
pity  to  spare  for  the  poor  devils  in  such  evil  case 
as  that  on  those  perishing  iron  decks,  or  being  flung 
like  a  tennis-ball  between  bunker,  bulkhead,  and 
furnace-door  in  the  Gehenna  below,  while  the  freezing 
floods  came  streaming  down  upon  them  through  the 
grated  "fidley  "  above.  Fifteen  days  did  that  merciless 
north-easter  thrash  and  wither  us,  until  we  felt  that 
nothing  mattered — we  had  reached  such  a  dumb  depth 
of  misery.  Still,  we  did  make  some  progress,  for  on 
the  sixteenth  day  we  sighted  Dungeness,  the  first 
clearly  distinguishable  land  we  had  seen  since  leaving 
Falmouth.  The  arrival  of  the  pilot  cheered  us  up, 
as  it  always  does.  He  seems  to  bring  with  him  the 
assurance  of  safety,  to  be  a  hand  stretched  out  from 
home  able  and  anxious  to  draw  you  thither.  And, 
as  so  often  happens,  too,  the  weather  fined  down  almost 
immediatel}'.  Under  his  wise  guidance  we  stole 
stealthily  along  the  coast  until,  off  Dover,  a  big  tug- 
boat sallied  out  and  made  for  us.  None  of  us  took 
any  notice  of  him ;  we  knew  too  well  that  we  were 
not  the  sort  of  game  he  was  after.  A  ship  about 
five  times  our  size  was  nearer  his  weight.  Still,  he 
came  alongside  and  hailed  us  with,  "  'E  ye  takin' 
steam  up,  cap'n  ?  "  ironicall}',  as  we  all  felt.  "Ah!" 
replied  the  old  man,  "yew're  too  big  a  swell  f'r  me." 
"  Nev'  mind  'bout  that,"  promptly  came  back.  "I'm 
a-goin'  up,  an3'how,  'n  yoii  won't  make  any  diff 'ranee 
ter  me.  Come,  wot'll  yer  gimme?"  "Ten  poun'," 
sniggered  the  old  man.  "  Oh  !  Go  on  ahead  !  " — the 
interjection    explosive,    and    the    order    snarled    down 


WHICH  BRINGS    US   TO   POET  AT  LAST.      341 

the  speaking-tube  to  his  engineer.  Before,  however, 
the  j)addles  had  made  one  revolution  he  stopped  them, 
and  shouted  back,  "  Looky  'ere,  I  ain't  fooHn' ;  I'll 
take  ye  up  fur  thutty  poun.  Thet  won't  'urt  yer." 
"  Can't  do  it,"  drawled  the  skipper.  "  Owners  wouldn't 
pay  it.  'Owever,  ef  yew  mean  bizness,  I'm  'lowed 
to  go  ter  twenty,  'n  not  'nother  pice."  Then  the  fun 
began.  They  argued  and  chaffed  and  swore  until, 
finally,  the  tug  got  so  close  that  her  skipper  stepped 
off  the  paddle-box  on  board  of  us,  and,  as  he  did  so, 
we  saw  a  bottle  sticking  out  of  his  pea-jacket  pocket. 
They  both  went  below,  and  there  was  silence.  When 
they  reappeared  our  old  man's  face  was  glowing  like 
burnished  copper,  and  Oliver  muttered,  "  I'm  off'rin' 
big  money  thet  bottle's  empty,  and  the  steam-boat 
man  ain't  a-hed  much  neither."  But  they  hadn't 
settled  the  bargain.  No ;  the  next  game  was  to  toss 
one  another — best  two  out  of  three — whether  the  tug 
should  take  us  uj)  for  twenty  pounds  or  twenty-five. 
Steam  won ;  and  the  old  man  immediately  signed  to  the 
mate  to  get  the  hawser  up.  Great  Caesar  !  how  we  did 
snake  the  hatches  off  before  the  order  came,  forgetting 
that  we  hadn't  got  a  hawser  fit  for  the  job.  That  made 
no  odds ;  the  tug-boat  man  wasn't  going  to  let  a  little 
thing  like  that  stand  in  his  way,  especially  as  his 
coal  supply  was  so  low  that  every  minute  was  precious. 
So  he  lent  us  his  tow-line,  and  in  less  than  five 
minutes  the  Robert  Bruce  was  pelting  away  homeward 
as  if  nothing  was  behind  her  at  all,  and  we  were  all 
admiring  the  first  bit  of  speed  the  old  Harrowhy  had 
put  on  since  we  had  belonged  to  her.  Night  fell  as 
we  passed  the  Nore,  but  there  was  no  delay.     Onward 


342  TEE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

we  went,  until,  passing  everything  on  the  way,  we 
anchored  at  Gravesend.  Off  went  the  tug  with  the 
last  shovelful  of  coal  in  the  furnaces,  just  in  time. 
Then  down  came  the  fog,  a  regular  November  shroud, 
so  thick  that  the  mainmast  was  invisible  from  the 
poojD.  Somehow  the  "mud  "-pilot  found  us,  his  boat 
taking  away  our  deep-water  man,  in  whom — such  is 
the  fickleness  of  mankind — we  had  now  lost  all  interest. 
All  the  next  day  that  thick  darkness  persisted;  but 
about  seven  in  the  evening  it  lifted  a  little.  The  tug 
was  alongside  of  us  directly,  so  anxious  was  her  skipper 
to  get  his  cheap  job  over.  We  were  mighty  smart 
getting  under  way,  being  off  uj)  the  river  in  less  than 
half  an  hour  from  the  first  glimmer  of  clear.  All 
went  well  till  we  entered  Long  Eeach,  when  down 
came  the  curtain  again  thicker  than  ever.  Ths  tug 
turned  round  and  headed  down  the  river,  just  keeping 
the  paddles  moving  as  we  dropped  up  with  the  young 
flood.  It  was  a  terribly  anxious  time.  The  river  was 
full  of  craft,  and  every  minute  or  two  there  was  a 
tempest  of  howls  as  we  bumped  into  some  bewildered 
barge,  or  came  close  aboard  of  a  huge  ocean  steamer. 
At  last  the  pilot  could  stand  it  no  longer,  and,  telling 
the  carpenter  to  get  his  maul  ready  for  knocking  out  the 
ring-stopper  of  the  anchor,  he  shouted,  "Stand  clear 
the  chain ! "  At  that  instant,  as  if  by  some  pre- 
arranged signal,  the  fog  rolled  ujd,  and  in  five  minutes 
the  sky  was  as  clear  as  heart  could  wish.  The  tug 
swung  round  again,  and,  under  a  full  head  of  steam, 
we  rushed  onwards,  entering  the  Millwall  Docks  just 
at  the  stroke  of  midnight.  The  process  of  mooring  in 
our  berth  was  all  a  confused  jumble  of  rattling  chains. 


WHICH  BRINGS    US    TO   PORT  AT  LAST.      343 

hoarse  orders,  and  breathless,  unreasoning  activity, 
succeeded  by  that  sweetest  of  all  sounds  to  a  homeward- 
bound  sailor's  ears,  "  That'll  do,  men." 

Unearthly  as  the  hour  was,  most  of  the  fellows 
would  go  ashore,  delivering  themselves  over  to  the 
ever-watchful  boarding-house  runners  like  a  flock  of 
sheep.  But  three  of  us — Oliver,  Bill,  and  myself — 
rolled  once  more  into  our  bunks,  and,  utterly  wearied, 
soon  fell  fast  asleep.  When  we  awoke  in  the  morning 
the  new  sensation  of  being  our  own  masters,  able  to 
disregard  the  time,  and  lay  in  till  noon  if  we  chose,  was 
delightful.  But  just  because  we  could  do  as  we  liked 
we  rose  at  daylight,  had  a  leisurely  wash,  and,  dressed 
in  our  best,  climbed  over  the  rail  and  sauntered  along 
the  gloomy,  grimy  quays  towards  the  dock-gates.  We 
had  just  two  shillings  and  sixpence  between  us,  sufficient 
to  get  a  good  meal  only,  but  we  knew  where  we  could 
get  more.  And  that  is  one  of  the  first  pitfalls  that 
beset  the  path  of  the  homeward-bounder.  Many  skippers 
have  sufficient  thoughtfulness  to  advance  their  crews  a 
little  money  upon  arriving  in  dock,  and  thereby  save 
them  from  the  dangerous  necessity  of  borrowing  from 
those  harpies  who  abound  and  batten  upon  the  sailor. 
Nothing  of  the  kind  could  be  expected  from  our  skipper, 
of  course,  so  we  just  had  to  take  our  chance.  As  I  was 
at  home  and  familiar  with  every  corner,  I  became  the 
guide,  and  led  the  way  to  a  snug  eating-house  in  the 
West  India  Dock  Eoad,  where  I  knew  we  could  get  a 
civilized  breakfast.  But  Oliver  hove-to  at  the  first  pub, 
and  swore  that  what  he  needed  was  rum.  I  tried  hard 
to  dissuade  him,  assuring  him  that  he  wouldn't  be  able 
to  eat  any  breakfast  if  he  got  drinking  rum  first.     I 


344  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

might  as  well  have  tried  to  tie  an  elephant  with  a  roi)c- 
yarn.  He  had  his  rum :  a  full  quartern  of  the  famous 
brand  that  used  to  be  sold  about  sailor-to^Yn,  whereof 
the  bouquet  was  enough  to  make  a  horse  sick.  Then  I 
hurried  him  off  to  the  coffee-shop,  where,  with  a  lordly 
air,  I  ordered  three  haddocks,  three  hot  rolls  and  butter, 
and  three  pints  of  coffee.  Oh,  the  ecstatic  delight  of 
that  meal ! — that  is,  to  us  two  youngsters.  Oliver  just 
pecked  a  little  daintily,  and  then,  turning  to  a  burly 
carman  sitting  by  his  side  who  had  just  finished  a 
mighty  meal,  he  said  coaxingly,  "I  say,  shipmate,  I 
ain't  touched  this  grub  hardly :  can  you  help  me  out  ?  " 
With  a  commiserating  look  the  carman  reached  for  the 
food,  and  concealed  it  like  an  expert  conjurer. 


(     345     ) 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

COXCLL'SION. 

As  I  had  no  home,  aud  cared  little  where  I  lodged,  I 
was  easily  persuaded  by  Oliver  to  accompany  him  to 
the  little  beershop  in  the  Highway,  where  he  had 
put  up  before.  I  had  my  misgivings,  for  I  knew  that 
unsavoury  neighbourhood  well  (it  is  somewhat  different 
now);  but  it  was  necessary  to  find  harbourage  some- 
where until  the  ship  paid  off,  which  was,  as  usual,  likely 
to  be  three  days  longer.  Bill  departed  unto  his  own 
place  among  the  purlieus  of  Bermondsey,  and  we  two 
trudged  off  to  Oliver's  hotel.  After  the  glowing  accounts 
of  it  I  had  received  from  Oliver,  I  was  dumbfounded  to 
find  it  a  regular  den :  the  bar  filled  with  loafers  furtive 
of  look  and  mangy  of  clothing,  while  the  big  taproom  at 
the  back  was  just  a  barn  of  a  place  open  to  all.  The 
fat  landlord  seemed  a  decent  fellow,  but  his  fatter  wife 
was  a  terror.  She  had  vigour  enough  to  command  a 
regiment,  and  woe  to  the  loafer  who  crossed  her.  Still 
I  felt  that  it  was  now  too  late  to  draw  back,  and  besides, 
I  had  little  to  lose  ;  so  I  had  my  scanty  kit  brought  up 
from  the  ship,  and  saw  it  shoved  into  a  corner  of  the 
common  room,  where  I  reckoned  it  would  be  ransacked 
thoroughly  as  soon  as  darkness  set  in.    The  landlord  lent 


346  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA-WAIF. 

me  a  sovereign  readily  enough,  and,  as  soon  as  I  received 
it,  I  bade  good- day  to  Oliver,  who  was  fast  drinking 
himself  idiotic,  and,  taking  the  train  from  Shadwell 
to  Fenchurch  Street,  was  whirled  out  of  that  detestable 
locality.  All  the  rest  of  the  day  I  roamed  about  the 
well-known  streets,  where  the  very  buildings  seemed  to 
greet  me  with  the  air  of  old  friends.  I  thoroughly 
enjoyed  myself,  and,  with  only  a  couple  of  shillings  gone 
out  of  my  sovereign,  returned  to  my  lodging  shortly 
after  ten.  I  found  things  worse  than  ever.  The  land- 
lady was  half  inclined  to  abuse  me  because  I  hadn't 
been  in  to  my  meals,  and  every  loafer  in  the  place  was 
sponging  for  a  drink.  Outside  I  knew  was  not  healthy 
at  this  time  of  night  for  me,  so  I  quietly  asked  permission 
to  go  to  bed.  Grumbling  at  such  an  unreasonable  request, 
the  landlady  snarled,  "  You'll  'ave  ter  wite  till  yer  bed's 
ready.  'Ow  wos  hi  ter  know  as  you'd  wanter  sleep  all 
day."  I  said  nothing,  seeing  it  was  the  wisest  course  ; 
but  perching  myself  in  a  corner  under  the  big  flaring 
kerosene-lamp,  tried  to  read  a  book  I  had  brought  in 
with  me.  I  had  not  been  thus  quietly  engaged  for  more 
than  five  minutes,  before  an  awfully  repulsive-looking 
fellow  came  up  to  me,  and,  pushing  down  my  book, 
said,  "  Got  enny  munny  in  yer  close,  J^oung  'un  ?"  I 
looked  at  him  in  silence  for  a  minute,  thinking  hard  how 
best  to  answer  him.  But  growing  impatient  he  growled, 
"  Look  'ere,  giv  us  the  price  of  a  drink,  er  I'll  bash  yer 
jor  in."  That  settled  it.  Indignation  overcame  prudence, 
and  I  shouted  at  the  pitch  of  my  voice,  "  Mr.  Bailey, 
do  you  allow  this  to  go  on  in  your  house  ?  "  There  was 
an  uproar  immediately,  in  the  midst  of  which  Mrs.  Bailey 
cleared  the  room  of  the  swarming  loafers — my  assailant 


CONCLUSION.  347 

escaping  among  them.  Then,  turning  indignantly  to 
me,  she  abused  me  roundly  for  making  a  disturbance, 
treating  my  statement  as  a  "  pack  er  lies."  I  got  to 
bed  safely,  though,  and  really  the  bed  was  better  than 
I  had  expected,  although  the  room  was  just  a  bare  box 
of  a  place,  with  damp-begrimed  walls  that  might  have 
been  a  coal-cellar. 

Eising  early  in  the  morning  I  went  down  and  had 
an  interview  with  Bailey,  in  which  I  asked  him  to  have 
my  dunnage  put  away,  as  I  was  going  on  a  visit  and 
should  not  return  that  night.  He  was  pleasant  enough 
about  it,  and  offered  me  a  rum-aud-milk  at  his  expense, 
being  greatly  amazed  at  my  refusal.  Then  I  escaped 
and  took  up  my  abode  at  a  lodging-house  in  Newman 
Street,  Oxford  Street.  The  time  dragged  rather  heavily 
until  pay-day,  as  I  dared  not  do  anything  costing 
money ;  but  at  last  I  found  myself  once  more  at  Green's 
Home,  with  my  account  of  wages  in  my  hand,  telling 
me  that  after  all  claims  were  satisfied,  I  was  entitled 
to  sixteen  pounds.  It  was  a  curious  paying-off.  Every 
man,  as  he  got  his  money,  gave  the  skipper  a  piece  of 
his  mind  ;  and  but  that  a  stout  grating  protected  the 
old  man  from  his  crew,  I  am  afraid  there  would  have 
been  assault  and  battery.  I  came  last,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  Bill,  and,  when  I  held  out  my  account  of  wages 
to  the  clerk,  the  old  rascal  said,  "  I've  a  good  mind  to 
stop  yer  wages  as  I  promised  yer."  What  I  said  doesn't 
matter,  but  I  never  felt  the  poverty  of  language  more. 
And  when  I  saw  that  he  had  given  me  on  my  certificate 
of  discharge  an  excellent  character  for  conduct  (which 
I  didn't  deserve)  and  a  bad  character  for  ability  (which 
was   utterly   unjust),   I  felt   that   his  malignity  would 


348  THE  LOG    OF  A    SEA- WAIF. 

pursue  mc  long  after  I  had  seen  the  last  of  him.  For 
such  a  discharge  is  a  millstone  round  a  young  man's 
neck.  Captains  don't  take  much  notice  of  a  character 
for  conduct — whether  it  be  good  or  bad — but  they  do 
want  their  men  to  be  of  some  use  at  their  work,  and 
will  return  such  a  discharge  as  mine  was  contemptu- 
ously. Bill  took  his  pay  without  looking  at  it,  and, 
without  a  word  passing  between  him  and  the  old  man, 
joined  me  outside.  We  strolled  away  together  along 
the  East  India  Dock  Eoad,  he  bungling  over  his  money 
all  the  time,  till  suddenly  he  cried,  "  Why,  I've  got  a 
five-pound  note  too  much  !  Here,  come  on,  let's  get 
out  o'  this,  case  he  sends  after  us."  And  thus  was  I 
avenged.  The  morality  of  the  thing  never  troubled 
me  in  the  least,  I  only  felt  glad  from  my  heart  that 
mine  enemy  would  have  to  refund  all  that  money. 

And  now  I  have  reached  the  limit  of  my  book.  At 
the  outset  I  onh-  proposed  to  deal  with  the  vicissitudes 
of  my  life  on  board  ship  as  a  boy.  And  with  the  close 
of  this  voyage  I  felt  that  I  was  a  hoj  no  longer.  I  was 
getting  more  confident  in  my  abilit}'  to  hold  my  own 
in  the  struggle  for  life,  and,  although  I  saw  nothing 
before  me  but  a  dreary  round  of  the  drudgery  of  the 
merchant  seaman's  career  before  the  mast,  the  prospect 
did  not  trouble  me.  I  had  no  plans,  no  ambitions, 
nobody  to  work  for,  no  one  to  encourage  me  to  strive 
for  better  things.  I  lived  only  for  the  day's  need,  my 
only  trouble  the  possible  difficulty  of  getting  a  ship. 
Of  the  future,  and  what  it  had  in  store  for  me,  I 
thought  nothing,  cared  nothing.  And  yet  I  was  not 
unhappy.  If  at  times  there  was  a  dull  sense  of  want — 
want   of  something  besides  food   and   clothing — I  did 


CONCLUSION.  349 

not  nurse  it  until  it  became  a  pain.  Only  I  kept  away 
from  sailor-town.  The  museums,  picture  galleries,  and 
theatres  kept  me  fully  amused,  and,  when  I  was  tired, 
a  good  book  was  an  unfailing  resource  against  dulness. 
In  fact  I  lived  in  a  little  world  of  my  own,  quite  content 
with  my  own  company  and  that  of  the  creations  of 
my  fancy  or  the  characters  in  the  books  I  devoured. 

This  unsatisfactory  life,  thank  God  !  was  soon  to  be 
entirely  changed ;  but  that,  of  course,  was  hidden  from 
me,  nor  does  it  come  within  the  scope  of  this  book.  As 
I  write  these  last  few  words  I  think  curiously  whether, 
if  ever  they  see  the  light,  those  who  read  them  will 
think  contemptuously,  "  This  fellow  seems  to  imagine 
that  the  commonplace  details  in  the  life  of  a  nobody  are 
worth  recording."  Well,  I  have  had  my  doubts  about 
that  all  along,  and  my  only  excuse  must  be  that  I  have 
been  assured,  upon  very  high  authority,  that  a  book  like 
mine,  telling  just  the  naked,  unadorned  truth  about  an 
ordinary  boy's  ordinary  life  at  sea,  could  not  fail  to  be 
of  interest  as  a  human  document.  And,  in  spite  of  the 
manifest  shortcomings,  the  obvious  inability  to  dis- 
criminate wisely  always  between  things  that  are  worth 
the  telling  and  things  that  are  not,  I  do  confidently 
assert  that  I  have  here  set  forth  the  truth  impartially,  as 
far  as  I  have  been  able  to  do  so.  I  feel  strongly  tempted 
to  draw  a  few  conclusions  from  my  exj^erience ;  but  I 
must  resist  the  temptation,  and  allow  the  readers  to  do 
that  for  themselves.  In  the  hope  that  some  good  may 
be  done,  some  little  pleasure  given,  by  this  simple 
recital  of  a  boy's  experiences  at  sea,  I  now  bid  my 
readers,  respectfully, 

so   LONG ! 


PRINTED    BY 

WILLIAM    CLOWES   AND   SONS,    LIMITED, 

LONDON   AND    BECCLES, 


Extract  from  a  letter  received  by  Mr.  Biillen  from  the  Editor  of  '  The 
Morning  Mercury,'  New  Bedford,  Massachusetts,  U.S.A. 

'  I  have  talked  with  a  number  of  our  whaling  captains  who  have  read 
your  book,  and  they  agree  it  is  the  only  satisfactory  whaling-  story  they 
ever  read.  For  myself,  I  would  like  to  say  that  although  I  was  born  and 
bred  in  New  Bedford,  and  have  taken  sufficient  interest  in  the  subject  to 
make  a  collection  of  whaling  prints  which  I  believe  is  the  most  complete  in 
the  city,  I  learned  more  about  whaling  from  your  book  than  I  ever  expected 
to  know,  and  I  was  exceedingly  charmed  with  the  literary  quality  of  the 
book.' 

FOURTH  EDITION.     With  S  Illustrations  and  a  Chart.     Large  post  Svo,  S.f.  (,d. 

THE  CRUISE  OF  THE  'CACHALOT' 

ROUND  THE  WORLD  AFTER  SPERM  WHALES. 

By  FRANK  T.  BULLEN,  First  Mate. 

The  Volume  includes  a  Letter  to  the  Author  fro.m  RUDYARD  KIPLING. 

TIMES. — '  Mr.  Bullen  has  a  splendid  subject,  and  he  handles  it  with  the  pen  of  a 
master.  ..."  The  Cruise  of  the  Cachalot "  is  a  book  which  cannot  but  fascinate  all 
lovers  of  the  sea,  and  all  who  can  appreciate  a  masterly  presentation  of  its  wonder  and 
its  mystery,  its  terrors  and  its  trials,  its  humours  and  its  tragedies.' 

tl'ORLD. — 'Without  exception  one  of  the  most  charming  sea-stories  which  it  has 
been  our  luck  to  peruse  for  many  a  long  day.' 

SPECTA  TOR. — 'A  "  deep  sea  wonder  and  mysterj'"  pervades  every  page,  and  this 
without  any  straining  or  self-conscious  art.  Mr.  Bullen  has  insight,  and  he  has  the 
power  of  presentation — the  power  of  making  things  vivid  and  interesting.  In  a  word,  he 
has  seen  things  worthy  the  telling,  and  he  tells  them  worthily.' 

SPEAKER. — '  What  makes  this  book  distinctive  is  the  new  way  in  which  it  realizes 
for  us  the  whale  in  all  his  noble  monstrousness,  and  gives  us  the  very  spirit,  the  very 
idiosyncracy  (may  we  say?)  of  the  beast.  Mr.  Bullen,  in  fact,  is  our  modern  Jonah.  He 
paints  his  whale  inside  and  out,  having  carried  his  familiar  intercourse  to  the  point  of 
being  all  but  swallowed.' 

CRITIC. — '  Certain  it  is  that  never  was  there  such  a  book  of  the  sea,  such  a  delight 
for  young  and  old  alike,  as  this.' 

ACADEMV. — '  Mr.  Bullen  has  given  us  in  these  pages  an  epic  of  whaling,  and  he 
has  presented  it  with  that  forcefulness  and  simplicity  with  which  the  epic  is  associated. 
.  .  .  The  book  is  real,  authentic,  a  piece  of  life.' 

ECHO. — '  It  is  an  enthralling  story  that  Mr.  Bullen  tells,  terrible,  too,  in  parts,  and 
told  with  absolute  grasp  and  knowledge.  Probably  the  best  book  about  the  sea  published 
within  recent  years.' 

MANCHESTER  COURIER. — '  We  have  rarely  come  across  a  book  which  is  so 
engrossing  and  told  in  such  excellent  style.  .  .  .  We  cannot  do  better  than  quote  the 
first  three  words  of  !Mr.  Rudyard  Kipling's  brief  letter  of  congratulation  which  prefaces 
the  book — "  It  is  immense." ' 

COUNTRY  LIFE. — '  Of  a  truth,  this  is  one  of  those  rare  men  who  possess  the 
divine  gift  of  description,  of  making  creatures  live  and  die  before  our  eyes,  though  the 
page  be  but  printed.' 

BOOKMAN. — '  Here  is  a  glorious  salt-sea  book,  true,  every  word  of  it,  and  thrilling 
with  adventure.  .  .  .  The  spirit  of  daring  is  there,  and  plenty  of  adventure.  ...  It  is 
not  a  juvenile  book,  but  boys  will  revel  in  it,  and  men  who  have  still  some  of  their  boyish 
sympathies  intact  will  find  it  as  refreshing  as  an  ocean  holiday.' 

STANDARD. — '  The  merit  of  the  book  is  twofold.  First  of  all,  it  is  written  with 
evident  fidelity  to  truth,  and  next  with  a  picturesque  vigour  of  expression,  which,  to  say 
the  least,  is  uncommon.  Mr.  Bullen  has  stories  to  tell,  and,  with  unconscious  art,  he 
contrives  to  win  attention  at  the  outset,  and  to  hold  it  without  an  effort  to  the  end.' 

REVIEW  OF  REJ'IElVS.—'Ur.  Frank  T.  Bullen  has  achieved  a  unique  distinc- 
tion. He  has  opened  the  door  to  a  new  world.  There  is  no  doubt  but  that  "  The  Cruise 
of  the  Cac/m/oi  "  will  mark  the  commencement  of  anew  school  in  literature,  which  will 
deal  with  wonders  of  the  mysterious  realm  of  the  mighty  deep.  .  .  .  The  book  is  full  of 
strange  scenes  and  incidents.' 


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'  Assuredly  there  are  few  books  which  will  live 
longer  in  English  literature  than  those  that  we  owe 
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Messrs.  SMITH,  ELDER,  &  CO.  announce  the  publication,  in  7  Monthly 
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A   NEW    EDITION. 

TO    BE   TERMED 

THE    'HAWORTH'    EDITION 

OF   THE 

Life   and  Works 

OF 

The    Sisters    Bronte 

WITH    I'OKTRAIT.S    A>D    ILLUSTRATIONS 

Including  Views  of  places  described  in  the  Works,  reproduced  from  Photo- 
graphs specially  taken  for  the  purpose  by  Mr.  W.  R.  Bland,  of  Uuffield, 
Derby,  in  conjunction  with  Mr.  C.   Barrow  Keexe,  of  Derby. 

Introductions  to  the  Works  are  supplied  by 
Mrs.  HUMPHRY  WARD, 

AND 

An   Introduction    and   Notes  to   Mrs.    Gaskell's    'Life   of 

Charlotte  Bronte'  by  Mr.  CLEMENT  K.'  SHORTER, 

the  eminent  Bronte  authority. 


Volume  I.— JANE  EYRE— will  be  published  on  October  17, 

and  the  remaining  volumes  will  be  issued  at  monthlv  intervals. 


The  Edition  will   be  similar  in  format  to  the  recently  completed 
BIOGRAPHICAL  EDITION  of  W.  M.  THACKERAY'S  WORKS. 

London:  SMITH,   ELDER,  &  CO.,   15  Waterloo  Place. 


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BINDING  SECT.  MAR  2  8  1968 


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